hey jep

your sons xx-tcr body did it come with stickers? picked one up today and i have window masking but no stickers. and i don't know if it was to come with them or night? thanks peter

hey which one do i get?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBSU9&P=7
or
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBSU8&P=7

what is the difference? :confused:

i can't see any difference between the two on tower try checking team orion's website.

I am having a problem with my ST, I pull the trigger back for forward and it goes in reverse, I push the trigger forward and it go forward instead of reverse.

What am I doing wrong?

It was working fine at the track yewsterday, went out to the track today and all of a sudden it has a mind of its own.

Any help will be appreciated.

Thanks

namvet

I am having a problem with my ST, I pull the trigger back for forward and it goes in reverse, I push the trigger forward and it go forward instead of reverse.

What am I doing wrong?

It was working fine at the track yewsterday, went out to the track today and all of a sudden it has a mind of its own.
namvet

Since it was working differently before, my guess is you have a transmitter that allows servo reversing and you may have accidentally bumped a knob/switch to reverse direction. Take a look and see if that's the case.

I know that with the way my Evader came (I got the truck w/o a radio), I had to reverse the throttle direction on my TX to make it work right. So, there really isn't a 'right' or 'wrong' direction.

hey which one do i get?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBSU9&P=7
or
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBSU8&P=7

what is the difference? :confused:

the first one has been dynoed and tuned.

Since it was working differently before, my guess is you have a transmitter that allows servo reversing and you may have accidentally bumped a knob/switch to reverse direction. Take a look and see if that's the case.

I know that with the way my Evader came (I got the truck w/o a radio), I had to reverse the throttle direction on my TX to make it work right. So, there really isn't a 'right' or 'wrong' direction.

hydro-gin I have tried to regulate the transmitter and it does not help. I would like to reset my forward by pulling trigger and my reverse by pushing trigger. This is the way it came, can anyone help me reset this?


Thanks Namvet

hydro-gin I have tried to regulate the transmitter and it does not help. I would like to reset my forward by pulling trigger and my reverse by pushing trigger. This is the way it came, can anyone help me reset this?


Thanks Namvet

The Sprint ESC (Electronic Speed Control), can be reset during the first few seconds after you switch it on. If there is no trigger input after that time, the ESC will stay the way it was. Conversely, if there is input during those first 2 seconds, it will think you're trying to change it. So you usually don't want to touch your trigger right after turning on the ESC unless you mean to change the ESC.

To reset the ESC, turn on your TX, then turn on your ESC and quickly pull back on the trigger and hold for a second, then push forward and hold for a second, then release to neutral. There's a green and red LED under the heat sink on the ESC (facing towards the front of the truck). The green LED will turn on after this.

These instructions are on page 8 of the manual if you still have it. I think they're also on the videotape that came with the truck.

If you have the radio that came with the RTR kit, I'm pretty sure it has servo reversing since its a rebranded Futaba. Even if you didn't reset the ESC, it should have been possible to reverse the throttle by changing a switch on the transmitter.

I'm assumming you haven't changed polarity of the wiring to your motor. Swapping those bullet connectors would also reverse throttle.

hydro-gin I have tried to regulate the transmitter and it does not help. I would like to reset my forward by pulling trigger and my reverse by pushing trigger. This is the way it came, can anyone help me reset this?


Thanks Namvet

I was able to get the trigger switch back to its orignal settings. Thanks for the help

namvet

When I hardwired my motor, I noticed it was wired in reverse polarity. That is the blue changed from positive at one end to negative at the other end. This was spoken about some time in the past. I think Duratrax actually did this to a lot of motors. Luckily most buy the RTR and they just reverse the switch, but changing the bullet connectors is quite easy too. Wierd heh?

which is it that the evader is just like? the losi or associated? well i ask because well i forget which one has graphite chassi but would it be possible to mod the graphite chassi to the evader? what graphite parts can i swap? :freak:

which is it that the evader is just like? the losi or associated? well i ask because well i forget which one has graphite chassi but would it be possible to mod the graphite chassi to the evader? what graphite parts can i swap? :freak:

Losi XX-T. The Evader Racers Only forum has a good parts list.

just went outside with the chains on, and boy was it fun. have about 4" of snow, and the top on like ice, some parts are slushy. great control, and lots of fun. Just make sure that you waterproof well.

It just floats over the icey stuff, and spins through the slush. Launching off the banks are nice cause you normally get a nice soft landing.

:jest:

Quick question for everyone. Whats the tallest gear you can run with the stock 20 turn motor? I got a pack of 6 pinion gears that go from 16-26 teeth I'd like some more top end so I'm leaning toward the 24 but I don't want to trash the motor out. Any help is appreciated.

oops sorry wrong thread. :)

I've run a 24 pinion with the stock spur in the past and not had any problems. Just check your motor temp after a few minutes to be sure.

I guess it would depend on the track but I run a 23T with a 88T Robinson gear. My truck is set up for carpet right now and I am running a finely tuned P2K. I had akrcracer help me rebuild my diff with some Losi parts and used bigger balls on the thrust side. Polished up the washers and this thing is very smooth. Picked up on my lap times.

I just received in the mail a new body for my Evader. I have never ever even seen a new unpainted body not to mention put it on. Does anyone have a good reference to point me towards so I won't screw this thing up. It is a '41 Willy's from Parma and I'm not sure yet if I want to mount it high like a monster truck, or low like a stadium truck.
http://www.ucalgary.ca/~rjfrankl/Willy's%20side.JPG
http://www.ucalgary.ca/~rjfrankl/Willy's%20front.JPG
http://www.ucalgary.ca/~rjfrankl/Willy's%20Back.JPG

would start by seeing how it will fit the chassis in general. and go from there. the key thing would be to watch the front over hang. my porsche body hangs to far forward. bottoms out when you hit little bumps. but post pics when you get it mounted. :jest: have fun peter

d#$m dail up!! your pics didn't load when i first checked your post. i like how you have it lined up, just be prepared to over trim the front wheel wells, alittle. maybe shift it back 1/4"-1/2" to avoide the front digging in. and if you mount the body to high you end up with lots of dirt/mud/rocks and whatever inside the chassis. body looks sweet though.


peter :cool:

Check out the painting tips thread here for tips and the URL to the Myst body painting FAQ/tutorial:

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?threadid=46288&highlight=myst+painting

I did my first body using the Myst tips and it turned out great. Just used Pactra cans. If your body has an overspray film, I suggest cutting the body out prior to painting.

My problem was I got a few cracks as a result of some nicks leftover from the body cutting process. Lexan is very strong, but develops cracks easily if its edges are jagged. Try to cut using a pair of lexan body scissors in long continuous strokes, sand out any nicks or jagged edges and you'll be good. If you get cracks later, use shoe goo and/or duct tape - and terminate the cracks by drilling a small hole at the end of the crack and filling w. shoe goo.

If you need to drill mounting holes and use a drill or Dremel instead of a punch, use a slow speed setting, otherwise the plastic will melt around the hole. Be patient with the prep work and it'll pay off w. good results. Have fun.

I think I'm going to mount it as low as possible, I'll probably cut the front (of the front), and the back (of the back), of the wheel wells right out. This way when I turn, the tires shouldn't bind in the wheel wells themselves. Thanks for all your input everybody. Fit first, then paint??

Yes, fit first then paint. Much easier. Just be sure to tape any holes so you don't end up with a lot of overspray. Boy, this forum's slowed down. Y'all all snowed in or what? 65 deg and sunny here. I'm actually going to go race electric tomorrow if enough people show up.

Yes it is very sad. The last few weeks in Canada have been bad. Like -20 to -40 day in day out. But the last few days have been nice and warm so by the end of the week I should be able to actually take my truck outside again!!

dose the body have over spray film? if it dosen't plastic cling wrap sticks well to protect from over spray. good luck.
peter

I'm not snowed in but it is starting to get rainy out now :( Did get to run last Sunday but no electric's showed up so I got stuck running with the nitro's Actually did'nt do to bad since basically I out-turned them lol But now I'm down waiting for the new rear bulkhead to show up so good luck to the rest of you :thumbsup:

dose the body have over spray film? if it dosen't plastic cling wrap sticks well to protect from over spray. good luck.
peter
No overspray film, but mounting it is going to be a chore, so I am so happy you told me about the saran wrap! :thumbsup:

Getting closer...
http://www.ucalgary.ca/~rjfrankl/Willy'sside%20.jpg

I finally got to take my truck outside today!! I actually got a real test of how far my internal antenna goes. Could someone tell me how far away their original setup will run. Mine went 55m and then it just stopped.

Also I got my new body trimmed up and ready for paint, I had to take it outside today to see if the wheel wells would hit the tires over jumps, you know. :thumbsup: This is going to be a sweet looking body when I paint it.

Somebody please talk, this thread is nearly dead!

Orbitron- That's going to look great when you get it done. Can you paint in that weather or do you have to wait for it to warm up?

Evader Blue- If you run a mild mod, you'll be real competitive with the nitro trucks, esp on a tight track. If you're running the stock ESC you can probably go to a 17T double no problem.

Mine went 55m and then it just stopped.

sounds right to me. mine went about a 150 feet-ish1.
body is looking sweet! fits alot lower then i thought.
what color(s) are you going to be using. yah winter is kinda a killer for
out door rc. have had probs getting something started with the micro as well. last time i ran my evader i ended up in a 5inch deep puddle. took it all apart dryed and checked everthing out. but yet to put it back together.


good luck have fun orbitron

peter :)

I really had to cut out the wheel wells. They still look good though. I haven't taken a picture yet. I figure deep navy blue metallic, no other junk just chrome. If I can't do it (chrome) with a can though, I might have to pay someone to do it for me, which I don't want to do. I want to say I DID IT :hat: when I'm done.
Cjtmanzue - sorry for the name butchering - I think I'm going to be evil and do it in my basement.

http://www.ucalgary.ca/~rjfrankl/Willy's%20topish.JPG
You can try my website for more pics. This page is under construction so don't hold it against me.Please! (http://www.ucalgary.ca/~rjfrankl/Willys.html)

Hello all,
I just wanted to say hello to everyone in this forum, since I am new here. I have been using www.radiocontrolzone.com for a while, and though I will still go there, decided to check some of you guys out here! At this point in life, I'm running stock, but in about a week, a box of goodies should come in the mail! Here's a quick run off of what I am going to be installing.

Duratrax Intellispeed ESC w/ Reverse (12+ turn limit)
Trinity Serepintine 14t motor w/ adjustable timing
Astro Flight 6/7 cell discharger
Duratrax Power-Power connectors (10 pair)
Titanium turnbuckle set w/ wrench
16/17 tooth pinion gear set of two
84 tooth spur gear
Spare brushes


I am currently running two 2400 6 cell batteries, and a 1500 6 cell. I have the Piranah Peak Power charger. I've been running this stock stuff for a while, just haven't had the cash for the rest of that other stuff (spent it on a ski trip...) so I'm pretty stoaked to see how it runs! Anyways, just kind of introducing myself to the crew here at the "Evader Forums" haha

TIM

Welcome thetimboroni - Tell me if you notice any difference with the Ti turnbuckles.

Welcome thetimboroni - Tell me if you notice any difference with the Ti turnbuckles.

titanium makes no noticeable difference in handling or speed. However, they are *much* stronger than steel ones, which have a tendency to get bent in wrecks. This is true regardless of mfg.

This is not to say they're indestructible... ;)

titanium makes no noticeable difference in handling or speed. However, they are *much* stronger than steel ones, which have a tendency to get bent in wrecks. This is true regardless of mfg.

This is not to say they're indestructible... ;)

Yeah I was joking... Suggesting he can talk here all he wants. :thumbsup:

There was a rumor on radiocontrolzone that someone on this forum makes and sells alloy differential gears and idler gears. I don't have $30 now, but I'm just curious who it is that makes them, so that when I decide to buy them, I'll know who to turn to.

"This is true regardless of mfg." was said by Dan the Man. What do you mean by that... (mfg)?

TIM

There was a rumor on radiocontrolzone that someone on this forum makes and sells alloy differential gears and idler gears. I don't have $30 now, but I'm just curious who it is that makes them, so that when I decide to buy them, I'll know who to turn to.
I think if you go to page 50 or so the info is there, but I also think just a few pages ago ther was comment on them from a purchaser. PM him if he doesn't show up soon with your answer. YOu're gonna need it with a 14 turn.

"This is true regardless of mfg." was said by Dan the Man. What do you mean by that... (mfg)?

TIM

"Mfg." is technically an abbreviation for "manufacturing." I used it incorrectly to refer to "manufacturer."

I make the aluminum idlers. Actually I modify Robinson pinion gears so the gears are nice and anodized which helps for wear. I could do it cheaper but my lhs gets like $4.50 a piece for the pinion gears (I use 2) $30 shipped, $5 more if you want the modified asc. diff gear. (highly recommended) I've been meaning to post on swap page but will soon.
Send money order to:
Rex Welch
2136 mingo view dr.
Wanamingo Mn
55983
E-mail 22welch@cannon.net

What is the best motor to run while still using the stock sprint ESC?

I'm not racing it yet but want something that will up the thrill factor of running my sons Evader ST....even he feels it needs a bit more kick...

Right now I'm running 20/78 pinion spur gears.... are they too low? I felt it needed a ton more top speed than it had stock...

Incipit, you will find that the photon is made for average speed and long run times. I've been able to run a 17 turn motor with the stock ESC without any problems at all. I like the Speed Gem Pro motors they run strong, are durable, and you do not need to hassel with capassitors. They are priced right too.

Have you done any maintenance on your stock motor? I got a lift out of mine by changing the brushes and a good cleaning.

Incipit, you will find that the photon is made for average speed and long run times. I've been able to run a 17 turn motor with the stock ESC without any problems at all. I like the Speed Gem Pro motors they run strong, are durable, and you do not need to hassel with capassitors. They are priced right too.
I'm not usually a spelling-flame type of guy, and I make my share of typos, but you're going to have to do some sort of penance for "hassel with capassitors".

Bill, I've cleaned the comm with a trinity comm pen but that's about it... I would actually love to pick up Novak's brushless setup but, I can't see spending 100+ dollars over the price of the whole truck itself for a drivetrain...even one as excellent as that.... I'd probably sell it and but a Nitro RC10GT like mine for my son... I mainly run Nitro, Duratrax Overdrive ST and AE RC10GT. This Evader ST is my first dabble in electric trucks... I'm learning...slowly, but I'm learning.

Does anone know of a company that makes Graphite or Aluminum shock towers or other parts for the Evader? I'm also interested in a wide front bumper like the one RPM makes for the Losi XXXT... It seems there is a limited number of available hop ups for the Evader ST... Thanks!

Hassle with capacitors. Hassle with capacitors. Hassle with capacitors. Hassle with capacitors. Hassle with capacitors.

You know if I could spell this form posting would be alot faster :lol:

Incipit,

I'm a brushless fan as well. My buddy has one in his EVST and other than the weak transmission it is a great set up. But money is a factor.

I think you will enjoy the elec. side of this hobby. A lot less trouble than nitro I understand.

I'm not aware of many hop ups for the EVST other than what Duratrax sells on Tower.com. I would reccommend the alum. braces that Jep RC sells on his website. The front bumper brace I know works very well and the other items have recived good reports. I also understand alot of the Losi stuff works on the EVST.

There is a thread called Jerrits Evader FAQ in this section. Try and find it. Alot of stuff about cross over hop ups.

Also in my opinion the Photon is not a fast motor. I run a Speed Gem Pro 17 T in my ST and I can keep up with the brushless. Only on a track though, out in the open I eat dust.

Incipit,

Here is the link to Jerrit's thread.

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?threadid=28696

Also Jep's web site can be found on the same page.