I have the same charger as 2nd, and I think it's the best charger for the $ out there. It will also charge your receiver batteries for your nitro car. You really need to get 3 batteries, though, esp with the NiMH like the GP3300's, because you're going to need to let them cool for a couple of hours before you charge them again. Spend an extra $70 or so up front to avoid trashing your batteries.

Hi Guys:

I've enjoyed the Duratrax Piranha Digital Peak charger has been a great charger for me. For only $50. per charger you could get two and speed up your recharging time, if you have the batts.

Stainless steel hardware.

When my friend and I bought our Evaders he also bought all the stainless steel hardwear he needed to replace all hardwear on the truck, but the 2 gear cover screws. Most of the specific sizes came in packs of 50 or more. We have finished changing out the stock hardwear on ours and I think he would sell, at cost, the remaining sets.

Anyone interestred? If so, we will take the time to count out the hardwear, do the math, and post an add in the swap n sell. I'll check back in about 24 hrs.

Unit -

1000mA = 1A = 1 Amp. An Amp is a measure of current flow, think of it as "amount of charge per unit of time". Given a certain amount of time, you end up dumping a certain amount of charge into your battery pack. That's where mAH's come in ... a 1000mAH pack is one that can store/provide the equivalent of 1000mA for a period of one hour (or 2000mA in 30 minutes, or 4000mA in 15 minues, etc.). So, maH's is just a measure of how big a charge bucket your pack represents.

If you have a battery that's rated at X mah, plus you choose to charge it at Y Amps, then theoretically, the time it takes to charge an empty pack = X / (1000 * Y) hours.

Example: You have a 3300mah battery and you choose to charge at 5A. Charge time is then 3300 / (1000 * 5) = 0.66 hours.

Normally, it won't take this long because your pack won't be totally discharged, but its nice to know your upper bounds. The example illustrates why its better/faster to get a charger with a high charge rate. Some people also say batteries perform better (have a higher output voltage while being used) when they are charged at high rates.

When looking at chargers, be aware that their max charge rates when used in AC or DC mode (i.e. plugged into wall, attached to your car battery) can be different. The Pirahna charger Bill cites has a 3A max on AC and a 5A max on DC. I think the Intellipeak Digital cited by CJ and 2G has a max of 6.5A on both AC/DC (right?) plus a discharge mode too. Many drivers don't use the built-in discharge function because if they discharge, they want it to be at a rate similar to the 20A-25A peaks encountered during racing. The built-in discharge rate is much lower than that, maybe 10A. Discharging nicd's is often necessary before charging. Whether or not you need to discharge nimh packs is a story I'll let somone else handle. Personally, I don't, although I can see it might be useful to bring a sluggish pack back to life.

Hope this helps.

Whichever charger you get, if your transmitter has a charging jack, throw some nicad or nimh rechargeables in there for long term $avings. I got some GP 1800 nimh AA's here really cheap:

http://www.nimhbattery.com

Then you can get an adaptor that runs from your charger to the charging jack like this one for Futaba Tx's:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAFJ0&P=K

Just be sure your charger can handle the typical 8 cells that TX's use, disable trickle mode in your charger (some chargers can continue to charge at a really low rate, like 100-200ma, after the charge cycle has ended) and charge at a 500mA to 1000ma rate - little AA's can't handle a high charge rate.

HG- You're right on. The Intellipeak will go down to 500 maH for charging TX/RX batteries. They say because of the peak detection they use you can charge at 4 to 5 amps, but I'm in no mood to try it. The digital's nice because if you use the built-in discharge you can cut it off before the preset voltage if you want. It also does NiCad and NimH. I don't think you can disable the tricklee so I just watch the NiMH batteries.

Couple of questions for you all First has anyone had problems with the diff screw? I set mine snug then backed off 1/8 turn but by the time I've run about 2 packs thru it seems like it's tightend back up and the rear ends all over the place The other ? I had was about the piranha charger It seems that my trickle charge will not work anymore It'll charge on fast but not trickle? Any ideas?

I just made a website for my truck (it'll really enjoy it). I want to make it a comprehensive how to and info on the Evader ST. My Truck (http://www.ucalgary.ca/~rjfrankl/evaderhome.html) If you want to be on the links page send me an E-mail or send some good pics of your trucks.

I'm still a beginner, but I want (millions of) other Noobs to find stuff about our truck and buy it so Duratrax will make better hop-ups.

EB -

Are you sure your rear end isn't loose for some other reason, like too tight a slipper combined with a heavy throttle? Or maybe over-steering with too much throttle? My diff always gets looser, not tighter, with use. Never heard of a too-tight Evader diff because there's a VERY fine line between being just right and too tight (said baby bear). In my experience, too tight almost always results in a broken thrust bearing!

I reposted a diff/slipper adjustment procedure earlier this week. I suggest you use it to check both the diff & slipper. I find the procedure is much better than the published one - you'll know when the diff is tight enough because the left wheel won't spin as you hold down the right wheel and spur gear with the slipper tightened almost all the way. No need to back off 1/8 turn using this procedure. Be sure to tighten in very small increments.

On the Piranha, check your global auto trickle setting. After you turn it on, hit "+" twice to enter User Setup, then hit ENTER to see your current trickle value. You can change it to either 0, 100, or 200mah by using the + or - buttons. Remember, this is for the trickle phase *AFTER* your charge cycle has ended. If you're charging little AA batteries in your Tx, make sure its set to 0mA - they can't handle trickle after charging.

If all you want to do is top-off a nimh pack after it was fully charged, but maybe sat around for a few days, you can always set a very low charge rate like 200maH for a NORMAL cycle - that would be considered trickle charging too. You can set your threshold detect lower than normal here, since false peaking isn't likely at low charge rates.

Hope this helps.

Orb -

If you want to help future Evader drivers to be successfull, post that diff/slipper adjustment procedure. IMHO, its the single most important thing to know about the Evader. You could even make a video clip! :thumbsup:

Also, refer to JEP's stuff, and the suspension setup (30 wt/white), and tell everyone to pull a balloon over their receiver to keep dirt out. Every Evader I've ever seen has had the receiver come off the little sticky foam block. Tell them they can use hook and loop fastener (3M brand available at Radio Shack) that has peel-off sticky backsides for re-attachment. Also tell them about the trick to secure the spur gear cover using a longer reversed bolt and fuel tube (appeared earlier this week). You could also suggest what common spare parts to buy if your LHS doesn't stock - front shock tower, front A-arms, 2.5mm/2.0mm e-clips. Extra motor brushes too - tell them to avoid the failure-prone Duratrax motor brushes and go with the green medium Trinity brushes instead. Recommend the Trinity fiberglass-based comm stick, it works great. Gee, I'd put up a site too, but maintenance for my RC10GT is sucking up my spare time. Good luck on your site!

Opps! I meant failure-prone Duratrax brush springs, not brushes. Its late.

HG- Just sent you a PM re: RC10GT.

I am new to your board and new to rc hobby.

I just purchased the Evader St Electric. I will check in everyday to get the latest information.

I will have lots of question, so please bear with me.

I am from Lafayette, Louisiana and am glad to be with you.

Thanks

Namvet

Namvet -

Welcome to this forum, and congrats on getting an Evader. There are lots of great people here, I've certainly learned alot from them.

If you have a fast internet connection and the time, it wouldn't hurt to start reading this thread from the beginning. Maybe pick 10 or 20 posts to read at a time. I know its sounds tedious, but I had a good time doing it, and learned alot.

Otherwise, the folks here will help you as your Q's come up.

ps. You're gonna need to figure out how to adjust your differential and slipper clutch. Go back to last week's posts and check out my re-post of Bob T's adjustment procedure.

Orb -

If you want to help future Evader drivers to be successfull, post that diff/slipper adjustment procedure. IMHO, its the single most important thing to know about the Evader. You could even make a video clip! :thumbsup:

Also, refer to JEP's stuff, and the suspension setup (30 wt/white), and tell everyone to pull a balloon over their receiver to keep dirt out. Every Evader I've ever seen has had the receiver come off the little sticky foam block. Tell them they can use hook and loop fastener (3M brand available at Radio Shack) that has peel-off sticky backsides for re-attachment. Also tell them about the trick to secure the spur gear cover using a longer reversed bolt and fuel tube (appeared earlier this week). You could also suggest what common spare parts to buy if your LHS doesn't stock - front shock tower, front A-arms, 2.5mm/2.0mm e-clips. Extra motor brushes too - tell them to avoid the failure-prone Duratrax motor brushes and go with the green medium Trinity brushes instead. Recommend the Trinity fiberglass-based comm stick, it works great. Gee, I'd put up a site too, but maintenance for my RC10GT is sucking up my spare time. Good luck on your site!

Yikes!! where to start, got jeps parts, going to do the slipper tonight, as for everything else... perhaps I 'll just have to wait to see if that stuff works good (I'm still too new.)

That front hinge pin brace was my nemesis:mad:! Jep-R/C to the rescue!

That slipper idea is the best, I couldn't define just snug, but this one is good.

Namvet - Good to see you over here instead of the other one... You know. Go to the racers only forum (on this site) as well. Lots of good info there.

Here is the link to the Diff and Slipper adjustment page on my website.

whatsthediff (http://www.ucalgary.ca/~rjfrankl/whatsthediff.html)

If I missed anything please let me know. Also please send me your tried and true setups and adjustments and I will put them up. I wish to be the magic orb. :biggrin:

Hello again Well hydro you were right looks like i had the slipper a lil too tight :frown: A little tip from me even if your racing on asphalt do not tighten it up since you never know when you'll do an endo lol Lucky me does'nt look like I did any major damage just a dinged wheel And good luck on your site orb I know I'll be checkin it out

Here is the link to the Diff and Slipper adjustment page on my website.

whatsthediff (http://www.ucalgary.ca/~rjfrankl/whatsthediff.html)

If I missed anything please let me know. Also please send me your tried and true setups and adjustments and I will put them up. I wish to be the magic orb. :biggrin:

Orb, nice job on the page. I did notice that you have Bill T. as the source, it should be Bob T.

Orb, nice job on the page. I did notice that you have Bill T. as the source, it should be Bob T.
Thanks gimme 2 minutes

Nice page, but some of the lines seem to have extra spaces/carriage returns when I view it. Minor stuff.

Whoa! Between your knees? I hope you're wearing a cup when you check your slipper! :lol:

Whoa! Between your knees? I hope you're wearing a cup when you check your slipper! :lol:

I'm a giant (2m tall or 6'6") so the truck doesn't even come close. And I put it so it rises AWAY from me.

Good job on the site orb looks like it's coming right along :biggrin: Remind me not to race you with that height you got you can see all the way to the back turns lol

Orbi,

Nice job on the web site. I missed it the first time but in your diff slipper adjustment instructions you mention that you should hold the right wheel and spur which is as it should be, but then you say to turn the right wheel. I belive you should try and turn the left wheel to test the diff adjustment.

Also, when Bob told us about this trick he mentioned that it is hard on the truck and should be used with caution. In fact the first time I tried it I stripped the spur gear and trashed a pinion because they were adjusted a little to loose.

There is another RC car web site you should check out. Misbehavin' has done one on Traxxas vehicles and it is a great site. I've tried to get a link posted here but with the new format I keep screwing it up. Try Misbehavin' RC on google and the link should come up or look in the Traxxas site under Stampede it is listed there in almost every post. Anyway it is a very informative site and you might enjoy checking it out.

By the way there is alot of other usful info on the site that relates to all RC trucks like motor tuning, shocks, etc.

Later
Bill

I have probably caused my on problems. I changed out the steering bellcrank from the standard black to blue, after I put back together I noticed that the (looking from the front) left side front wheel was tilted way in.

I took everything apart again and got the wheels straight, but then I could not keep the steering in line.

After a couple of turns across the carpet, the chrome shafts (2 of them) would not keep the servo saver set would not stay in place and would lean over are fall out leaving me with no steering.

What am I doing wrong? Any help will be appreciated.

Thanks

Namvet

Namvet- If you're talking about the vertical shafts for the servo saver, there are holes in the chassis and holes in the top brace where they have to line up and fit inside. Look at the exploded vie in your manual and you'll see what I mean. If they're not in the holes then the servo saver won't stay in place. Let us know if this isn't the problem.

Evader Racer- The Green MAchine is an RPM motor so you'll want a smaller pinion than you would normally run for your track. I'm guessing about 18 or 19T with the stock spur, but not sure. I think 2nd Gear has run the Green Machine, I don't have any direct experience.

Thanks Bill for your input. I've made changes accordingly. I actuall got my idea from the misbehavin site for the internal antenna and I have a link on that page. Right here (http://www.ucalgary.ca/~rjfrankl/internalantenna.html) I'll maybe put misbehavin' in the links page...

Namvet - Is it possible you may have changed with the toe-in as well? I'd imagine this would ony apply if you bought new ball cups as well.
If your servo isn't centered try the description on MISBEHAVIN' RC'S SITE (http://www.misbehavin-rc.com/pit-lane/center-servo/g-center-servo.html)

You're right Bill, this is a good site for everyone.

I am looking for a set of hex drivers, nut drivers, etc. that will fit my ST, would also like them to fit T3 if possible.

Can anyone suggest set that will replace my allen wrenchs and lug wrench?

Thanks

namvet

Be Kind to Animals

Namvet - Is it possible you may have changed with the toe-in as well? I'd imagine this would ony apply if you bought new ball cups as well.
If your servo isn't centered try the description on MISBEHAVIN' RC'S SITE (http://www.misbehavin-rc.com/pit-lane/center-servo/g-center-servo.html)

You're right Bill, this is a good site for everyone.

Yes I did replace Ball Cups also. I will read MISBEHAVIN' RC'S Site

Thanks Orbitron and I am glad to be with this group.

Namvet

I am looking for a set of hex drivers, nut drivers, etc. that will fit my ST, would also like them to fit T3 if possible.

Can anyone suggest set that will replace my allen wrenchs and lug wrench?

Thanks

namvet

Be Kind to Animals

Dynamite makes a set, not sure of the part #. I think the hex driver and the ball driver sets are separate. Look on the Horizon Hobby website for the part #, but try to support your LHS 1st.

why would you want a internal antenna that messes with rnage doesnt it?
Not so much if you don't let it touch graphite and/or metal. I did it so my truck would look better.

I am looking for a set of hex drivers, nut drivers, etc. that will fit my ST, would also like them to fit T3 if possible.

Can anyone suggest set that will replace my allen wrenchs and lug wrench?


Orb -

This might be good info for your web site. I also wondered what tools and sizes were needed when I got my Evader.

NV -

For hex drivers, some people like the RPM's w. hardened tips. I ended up getting an 8pc Bondhus SAE ball driver set (plastic handles with clearly marked sizes) plus their regular SAE and metric hex keys for when I want a non-ball end or am in a tight spot. The Bondus keys are much more comfy to work with than the supplied ones. This covers what I need for my Evader and my RC10GT (I think) so a T3 should be covered as well. For Evader, the hex drivers specifically needed are:

- 3/32" for most of the cap screws (e.g. the 4-40's)
- 1.5mm for the stock pinion gear
- 2.5mm for the 2 motor mounts

If you get different size pinions some day, some brands use a tiny 0.05" hex key. That's why I like the Robinson pinions - they use the bigger 1.5mm set screws. The little set screws are one place where a hardened driver tip might make sense, don't want them rounding out your driver.

Personally, I don't like those micro-driver handles that spin on your fingertip, but others like them. For nut drivers, I just use the little 4-way that came with the Evader. The short shaft makes it very maneuverable. Someone once said, its a 1/10th scale truck, so you only need 1/10th the effort for the fasteners :)

Other tools to consider are a driver for the plastic ball cups (Duratrax makes a nice plastic one, AE makes a fancy alum one), curved body-cutting scissors (cutting lexan bodies or plastic, trimming foam tire inserts, many other uses), needle nose pliers, screwdrivers, and Xacto knife.

Speaking of tools, does anyone know if there's a tool for extracting and inserting those darned little E-clips? I lose more of those than I do body clips :lol:

Thanks everyone for your info on the tool sets.

As far as removing and installing e-clips. I read on another site to use a very small 1mm screwdriver to slip them off. I tried this and sure enough they come off easier, need a rag or towel to catch them because they will fly. As far as installling them if anyone has as easy way to do this please let the world know.

Thanks

namvet

Be Kind to Animals.

Ahh the dreaded E-clip. My solution is this.
http://www.ucalgary.ca/~rjfrankl/smallpliers.JPG
I'm not sure how it got magnetized but it is and that helps out tons. Note I found an American penny to show you the size.lol I got it at Canadian Tire for dirt cheap. I don't know what your equvilent is. It's like a Sears without clothes.

I belive Harbor Freight Tools have those smaller pliers I've gotten the set like orb's and a smaller needle nose size I've had better luck with the needle nose because when I try to use the set like orb's I wind up smashing the Jesus-cripe-where'd-it-go? clip Another good place would be Radio Shack in the computer repair section

Speaking of tools, does anyone know if there's a tool for extracting and inserting those darned little E-clips? I lose more of those than I do body clips :lol:

The best tool for installing and removing E-clips is your thumbnail. Be sure not to try it when you've just got out of the bathtub!

I was looking at the Show Your Rides forum and you and all the others have great super looking rides.

I have a question for you, you list and I can see custom body clips, can you fill me in, did you make them, buy them , you know , who, what,where, how much, how to?

Thanks

Namvet

Be Kind to Animals

Don't know what the rest of them have nam but I've swapped mine out for the bigger traxxas ones. Then I bent them slightly to help pull them out easier. Makes it alot easier to get the battery bar clip out.

Don't know what the rest of them have nam but I've swapped mine out for the bigger traxxas ones. Then I bent them slightly to help pull them out easier. Makes it alot easier to get the battery bar clip out.

Good idea EvaderBlue, thanks for sharing.

namvet

Be Kind to Animals

My body clips are just normal ones but they are strung together by wire about 3 cm long. After I wired them together I shrink wrapped them so I wouldn't get cut by the excess wire.
http://www.ucalgary.ca/~rjfrankl/bodyclips.jpg
Also Misbehavin rc has a different idea on his pit lane section. The middle silver thing is the squeeze clamp. I just used a hammer to squeeze it and then used heat shrink tubing over the whole thing.

I use the AE body clips. Much bigger than the Evader clips and easy on the fingers.

Another option is to go w. the Evader clips and add pulls made of zip ties and fuel tubing, similar to the fuel cap pull here:

http://www.rccaraction.com/info/quicktip.asp?ID=10

(only you don't need to make a loop, just pass the clip thru the block end).

I also once saw a reference to people using hook & loop fasteners. Don't know if that's an on-road trick or not.

hey i was wondering if anyone had the MRC Super Brain 959 Charger :confused: and if its anygood cause im thinking about getting it :) and one other thing. what are some of your run times with a 2400 mah battery bashing or on a track?

i've heard the super brain over heats.

I have the super brain. It’s a good charger for the money. It runs kinda hot, but it doesn’t seem to affect its performance. You can always point a small fan at it to keep it cool.

I'm a basher, the 2400mah pack seems to last me about 12-15 mins. I’m running a stocker right now. Run time will decrease with a lower turn motor.

I use the Super Brain and have no problem with overhating. I also run the 2400 and get (guessing) 10 to 15 min., probably closer to ten run time.

namvet

At first I didn't believe the runtimes I was hearing for the Evader, but now I've seen it in person. I've come to the conclusion that the kit motor has been wound and timed for efficiency over any other consideration - more fun for the money.

my evader is on the way :-D. i just traded my HPI RS4 3-SS for 1... havent sent the ss out yet waiting on the evader. yeh i know its a bad deal in yalls eyes but i have my reasons so EAT A BOOGER!.

4tec

on the micro boards there are "alot" who have the super brain. but about 50% have false peak issues without a external fan blowing on it at warm temps(like living room temp). but it seams to be luke of the draw.

good luck
peter :jest:

has any one had tranns problems? want to make see if the problem still occurs? i know over this past winter people had some problems and want to see if they have been cured and how?

also any one know if the nitro evader axles fir the st? i thought some one said they were going to look into it?

later
matt

hey i have a futaba 3ph radio system and i was wondering if i buy another receiver and same frequency will it work on 2 cars? i know it wont keep same settings

hey i have a futaba 3ph radio system and i was wondering if i buy another receiver and same frequency will it work on 2 cars? i know it wont keep same settings


it should. have done similar with two rtr evaders and a missing tx.
then i just got a jr xr2 and xr3i tx/rx. good luck :) peter