is this motor any good? http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAVJ4&P=C does it matter what turn motor i get over the turn limit on the sprint esc?

ohh yeah one more thing whats so great about these motors "Stock class is the best place to start racing, get a P2K2 Pro motor or a Green machine 3" like in the faq in the link u gave me. mod motor class is like anything goes right like someone can have 12 turn and other a 14 turn? and stock class it what? im confused! at my tracks they have stock and mod classes and well whats the difference?:confused:

Awhile back on this thread, someone else (Bill, I think) was looking for a mild modified to go with the stock ESC. If I recall, a few people recommended the Chameleon 2 and also Peak's Jaguar:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBHF2&P=7

I think one of the 17T speed gems may have also been recommended by someone.

We don't have any organized electric racing where I live, just nitro, but I can try to help ...

The stock motor is 27T with fixed (24 deg) timing, there's usually something indicating its ROAR approved on the sticker, and everything else is considered 'modified'. There's classes in modified (I think 19T is one), but you'll probably need to check out http://www.roarracing.com for details. Locally, what classes and how they're defined will depend on your track's organizer. They may or may not adhere strictly to ROAR. Go see him/her for details. I think http://www.teamorion.com also has a motor FAQ with some info.

Regarding the recomendation to start in stock racing, I'd have to guess he said that because you won't be driving off the track with a hot 12T motor, and learning how to handle your truck, not just muscling it around. I always laugh whenever I see those ads selling trucks with the latest big nitro engine (like a 0.21 for a 1/10 truck) with big letters like "35 mph Top Speed!". It takes a lot more than horse/electron-power to consistently turn laps. I think I saw some race results recently where the top guys were averaging maybe 10-12mph each lap. Well, that's my 2 cents.

hyrdo_gin

very good point about speed and lap time

yes i have been told that the stock esc can handle a 17 turn motor. i was thinking about getting a speed gems amber(i think)but, i am ganna go brushless. Keep in mind i dont race.....just bash so i can have fun muscling my car wherever i want to take it.

oh ya brushless in a t2 not an evader.

4tec- Start in Stock Truck. Good motors are much cheaper than good mod motors, you can probably run the batteries you already have (low wind mod motors eat batteries) and you'll break fewer parts. Ditto what Hydrogin said, you have to learn to handle the truck first. If we all jumped in Dale Jr.'s car tomorrow we couldn't be any threat to win races. BTW, I have an Orion Core Stock and a P2K2 and I'd recommend the P2K2.

P.S. Off track, but anyone heard from Kitty? She's kind of disappeared since she got the Epede.

alright :) ill just take ur advice and start in stock. :)

cj,

kitty? We had not heard from her for awhile so Q emailed her. Shes fine just busy and not able to spend time on the threads. Had some oral surgery awhile back and that caused her some hassel.

Take care.
Bill

Originally posted by hydro_gin
Awhile back on this thread, someone else (Bill, I think) was looking for a mild modified to go with the stock ESC. If I recall, a few people recommended the Chameleon 2 and also Peak's Jaguar:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBHF2&P=7

I think one of the 17T speed gems may have also been recommended by someone.


That was awhile back! Good memory hydro :thumbsup:

I first tried the Speed Gem 19T, passed that along to a Stampede, and then tried the Speed Gem Pro 17T. The 17 works great with the stock EVST ESC and I have not had any problems at all. General cleaning and maintenance is all.

Nice motors.

hey guys, i havent been on for quite a while so i thought id say hello before i ask for help with my problem, so hi!
now to get down to business. i am having a severe crisis with my evader st, first of all if you look at it the wrong way the front and rear shock towers shatter into a fine dust and then i have to wait a couple of weeks before i can run again. i am planning on gettin xxx t shock towers for it but before i do that i need to know what modifications you need to do in order to make it fit. second, my esc some times wont work even with a freshly charged pack unless i give it a push and then it runs fine. a couple of days ago it stopped working completly. my friend is also having the same problems with his sprint. i am going to get a job soon (only 14 years old) and i will buy a new esc then, but i want to run now! i have even tried resetting the esc but with no succes. any help would be greatly appreciated so, goodbye!:wave:

my evader has done that in the past(need to be pushed to go) what i did to solve that was to clean the motor and put new brushes in the motor as well. tht solved the problem. i would say that is a motor problem not an esc problem.


hey 4tec let me know when you get your evader in the mail it should be there in a few days!!!!!

oh yeh i had a problem with the shock towers breaking alot so i found some cnced aluminum front and rear shock towers

my evader has done that in the past(need to be pushed to go) what i did to solve that was to clean the motor and put new brushes in the motor as well. tht solved the problem. i would say that is a motor problem not an esc problem.


hey 4tec let me know when you get your evader in the mail it should be there in a few days!!!!!

oh yeh i had a problem with the shock towers breaking alot so i found some cnced aluminum front and rear shock towers

where u get those aluminum ones at??

Originally posted by jacob
hey guys, i havent been on for quite a while so i thought id say hello before i ask for help with my problem, so hi!
now to get down to business. i am having a severe crisis with my evader st, first of all if you look at it the wrong way the front and rear shock towers shatter into a fine dust and then i have to wait a couple of weeks before i can run again. i am planning on gettin xxx t shock towers for it but before i do that i need to know what modifications you need to do in order to make it fit. second, my esc some times wont work even with a freshly charged pack unless i give it a push and then it runs fine. a couple of days ago it stopped working completly. my friend is also having the same problems with his sprint. i am going to get a job soon (only 14 years old) and i will buy a new esc then, but i want to run now! i have even tried resetting the esc but with no succes. any help would be greatly appreciated so, goodbye!:wave:
The XXT shock tower works fine very minor mod basicly opening up the holes to make it fit the evaders mounting positions.The XXXT WONT FIT!!!

i purchased them from cnc man on ebay. Keep your eyes open for his name he may have more but, i do not know for sure. they are really nice for one they wont break and two they stiffen up the flex in the suspension.

AWw dang!! i wish i had some!:cry: how much did u pay for them?

u know we all could send a whole bunch of e-mails to duratrax and tell them to make some! if they had enough request theyll probably make em :thumbsup:

if i remember correctly they were $40. yeah i like them alot, i am getting a t2 and i am having a hard time finding an AL rear shock tower. i like how they get rid of the flex.

i have already made the request and i am still waiting. DTXC does make other AL parts hubs, knuckle arms, FR bulk, tranny brace....etc But make your request.

ok ill do that right now :D

Originally posted by spreckenzy
if i remember correctly they were $40. yeah i like them alot, i am getting a t2 and i am having a hard time finding an AL rear shock tower. i like how they get rid of the flex.

How do you like the weight gain.....:thumbsup: :lol:

i must say i like it.
Before: it kept wanting to nose dive on large jumps
now: i have let off the gas a little in the air to purposefully make the truck nosedive to make it land just perfect. that is with the battery in the foward position.

I works for me i am happy with it!!!!

Bill -

Good to see you're still around! My memory isn't that great, I just cut/paste anything interesting off these boards into an Excel file - the motor thread was one of them :D

Speaking of Kitty, I remember she complained about stripping the plastic shock caps while rebuilding. Happened to me for the first time today :( Then had a *full-speed* head-on with another truck going the wrong way. A corner of my JEP noseplate actually bent (!) but all I suffered was a broken A-arm at the kingpin. The bulkhead and tower should have shattered. Live to race another day!

Anyone care to recommend some gauges for measuring camber & toe-in?

I've seen the RPM's and general angle gauges at the hardware store. Any other options?

Thanks.

HG- Does Jep's stuff rule or what? My daughter hit the wall last weekend hard enough to bend the hub carrier kingpin. I'd put Jep's stuff on the night before and zero damage. If you ain't got it, get it. I'm using the RPM camber gauge.

jacob- There was a problem with some of the early Sprint ESC's. They didn't like going from forward to reverse in a hurry and they heated up and glitched. You might e-mail DTX and see if you have one of them.

Hello all I just brought an Evader last month and only now found this forum Looks like theres finally somewhere that you don't feel like a red-headed stepchild:thumbsup: I race some friends at work now on an asphalt "track" and was wondering what advice anyone has for me?

Welcome EvaderBlue! My only advice is to get new tires. The step pins wear out quickliy and pavement will wear them out even faster. Maybe Proline RoadRage. If your tires hook up better you will drive better.

Thank you orbitron I'm trying a set of the duratrax street tread right now can't remember the name of them at the moment So far they're not too bad on grip but it's still cold and snowy so will have to wait till the thaw :) I do have the white springs on the way with 30wt shock oil ready to go Does anyone have any other set up tips for running on asphalt? Any help is appreciated:D

Hi Evader Blue:

Glad you have joined us. There are alot of great people on this thread more than willing to help out, so keep those questions coming.

Good call on the springs and 30 wt oil. Tires, of course, will help out alot. Make sure your comfortable adjusting the diff. and slipper clutch, with proper adjustment it will last much longer.

When your ready for a new motor, the Photon is OK but there are better / stronger mod motors out there, I would reccommend at 19 or 17 turn motor.

But the most important is practice, practice, and more practice.

Bill

EB -

Welcome to the group. Congrats on getting an Evader, you'll have lots of fun with it, especially if you figure out how to take care of it.

Regarding the shock setup, if you're going to be mostly running on asphalt, you may want to try 30wt/yellow instead of 30wt/white. The latter setup is more for dirt, where your truck will be jumping and should be *rolling* into the turns. On asphalt, you don't want to roll, so a stiffer suspension is better.

The two biggest maintenance things you'll want to figure out is how to adjust your slipper/differential and how to clean your motor.

IMHO, the diff is kinda finicky, but once you learn how to set it up and periodically check it, its not bad. Knowing how much to tighten the diff is one thing everyone on this board has had to figure out on their own. Too loose, and the diff will start slipping (bad). Too tight, and you risk cracking a thrust bearing washer (I've done that twice!). These days, I tighten it as much as I can, then leave it. I don't back off 1/8 turn per page 8 of the instructions. You'll know the diff needs tightening when you start hearing a strange whining noise from the tranny - there are other things that can make this noise too, so diagnosis can be tuff when you're starting out. I bet you'll need to tighten within 5 or so battery packs of use. If after adjusting you hear a strange clicking that's proportional to motor speed, a thrust bearing washer has likely cracked due to over-tightening.

So, the best way to tighten the diff is to do it incrementally and tighten just a little at a time. All us Evader drivers owe a debt to Bob T for posting a great procedure for checking if the diff is tight enough. I think this procedure might originally be for Associated's Stealth diff. Bob's post is on page 32 of this thread. I'll repost it here for you:

Ball Diff: How tight is right? (Page 32 of HobbyTalk > Radio Control > Offroad & Dirt Racing > Evader Owners) - PAGE 32

Ball diff slippage can as we know melt the diff gear. If the slipper gives before the ball diff the gear will be safe. Here is how I check the ballance between my slipper and ball diff.

1. Remove the cover revealing the spur and pinion gears.
2. Tighten the slipper all the way
3. Back off the slipper ¼ turn.
4. Hold the right rear wheel and spur gear so they cannot turn
I use the heel of my hand to hold the tire to a table top while holding the spur with my fingers.
5. Try to turn the left wheel with your left hand (as if truck were moving forward).
It should be almost impossible to turn the left wheel. If so
stop. Your diff is good.
If you can turn the wheel and the slipper shaft is not turning
your diff is too loose.
6. Tighten the diff 1/8th turn and re-test.
7. Repeat until the wheel will not turn without turning the slipper.

Once the diff is adjusted you will need to set the slipper.
This can be fun!

1. Turn your radio and truck on
2. Hold the truck out in front of you, holding it by the rear
wheels. The truck should hand [Ed. "hang"] nose down.
3. Have some one pull full throttle on the transmitter. Be careful it does not hit you in the nose. :-O
If the truck comes up above level the slipper is too tight.
Loosen it and re-test.
If the truck comes up between ½ (45 degrees)to level you are good.
If the truck does not come at least ½ way up tighten the slipper
a little and re-test.


That's it! I've found I can do the slipper check solo by holding the right wheel and transmitter both in my right hand. If you follow the instructions as intended, you're holding the truck out in front of you and the Evader is hanging in the air by the rear wheels, nose down, when you start. When you hit the throttle, its as if you're Evader is doing pushups!

Have fun :wave:

Evader Blue- Welcome to the forum. HG is correct on the springs if you're racing in a flat parking lot. If you're racing on-road (carpet or pavement) you'll want your slipper much tighter than we run for offroad. We use the slipper in part to control traction on the dirt and in part to save abuse on the tranny coming off jumps. Neither of these are an issue in road racing, so you'll want the extra acceleration you get with a tight slipper. As long as you're not jumping speed bumps, etc. you'll be okay.

CJ -

Right on :thumbsup:

CJ -

Was it you (or maybe 22racer) that recently posted a question elsewhere about whether increasing nitro content helps in high humidity locales? I can't find that thread, what was the answer? I live in an area that's often foggy.

HG- It was me. It's in the Offroad Section and titled "Fuel Question". I just posted the answer so it should be near the top.

hey spreckenzy i got the car in the mail :) i havnt driven it yet but i was wondering if the motor was in good shape? do the brushes need to be replaced?

4 tec , the motor is in good shape i would say the brushes are about at half life but it is hard to say . have fun with the truck.

Originally posted by cjtamu
HG- It was me. It's in the Offroad Section and titled "Fuel Question". I just posted the answer so it should be near the top.
20% is the best gas to use.ONLY if your run iit pig rich.If she isnt puffing like a freight train your not rich enough.
Ive done alot of nitro over the years myself.It is fun but a big mess most of the time.
I usally stick with 25% though,Only because everyone buys up the 20%.I run a OS Rx.15 in my NOB4 and run it WAY rich and it is smokin fast.Just remember when you do a highspeed run,Do a figure 8 this will load the engine with oil and get you lubed for the way back.
I was told this by Ron Paris.He is the man of Picco engines.:thumbsup:

Thanks folks!! It's so nice not to be treated like a leper just cause I brought the Evader:D I might leave the slipper a little loose yet because it's a campgrounds trailer site that we race on and if you miss the corner your off in the dirt with a pretty high berm As far as the diff goes when it came time to adjust it it was allready tight!!! Has anyone else had that problem on breakin and has something allready broke?:(

If you don't hear any strange noises coming from the tranny, and you've tested for tightness using the method previously described, then you're golden.

My diff loosens up occasionally, so I always check before a day of driving. I just wish Duratrax would have put that one screw holding the bottom of the gear cover in a more convenient place, it forces you to remove the right rear tire to remove the cover and access the spur gear. Hmm, I should replace it with a cap screw and use a short hex key ... :thumbsup:

Hydro

Someone posted a photo awhile back showing their mod to the trans case that lets you avoid that little screw. They ran a longer bolt through the case or motor plate from the other side. This left the threaded bolt exposed so you could just slip the cover over the bolt. He stopped there but you could also tighten it down with a nut. Let me know if this did not make any sense.

after you run the long bolt through the trans case you use some nitro fuel tubing, and slide it over the long bolt. and this holds the bottom of the gear cover closed.

peter:)

Hydro.
All you have to do is pull the cover/screws off.
Get you a fine thread screw that fits into the hole for the lower cover screw.If you pull your motor off youll see it plain as day.
You have to options.
1-You can put screws from the backside that are about 1/2 to 1 inch and then put the cover on and slip some fuel tubing over the screws to hold the cover on.

2- Or you can just do one reversed lower screw about 1/2 and then use the top screw in mormal fashion.


You can see my reversed screw in this photo right behind the pinion.I use the top screw in normal fashion.But for the stock coever (I use a RPM piece) your better off using the fuel tubing method.Just open the holes in the cover if you need to,Youll wear out the cover in no time.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid44/pdcf2f6f3255d74ab98af8239c3dc5e5a/fcdb00f3.jpg

Here is my RPM gear cover (no it isnt for the Evader)
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid47/p610f7d552edaae6c4f733581db5a3be6/fcc2c604.jpg:thumbsup:

I remember seeing those pics and thinking "what's the big deal?" .:lol: Good idea, 2G. Thanks everybody.

Ok all wish me luck I'm off this weekend to stomp on those boys at work with thier stampeds and rustler's:thumbsup: I did have one ? I hope you can all help with Is there a site that can tell me what the frequencies are compared to the colors? I'm running the red colored crystal and I know two of the others are using green and yellow in thier traxxas Is the color code standard thru-out the industry or do we need to find out who's running what? Sorry so long and any help is apprecaited :wave:

There should be a number on your transmitter where the crystal fits in. That will tell you what channel # you're on. The Evader frequencies are color coded by the different body colors (that's why you have 6). You can also pull the receiver crystal and just read it.

Thank you cj you were excatly right:thumbsup: Can you belive between 4 of us wanting to run we're all on diff freq's to start out with:lol: Thanks for the help and I'll remember that for the future

im gunna be racing in stock and shortly after im gunna run in modified and was wondering what chargers are good? theres about 1 hour in between each race :) for my class because i race in onroad nitro too. i start out racing onroad then 30 minutes later offroad then 30 minutes onroad so i have about an hour in between my offroad races to charge my batteries. I have an old nikko charger for the toy electrics with a duratrax 1500 mah battery and so i cant wait 4 hours! my question is: what charger charges under an hour and has enough time to cool before i put the battery pack in (im only gunna buy one battery or should i buy 2?) You know the numbers on the batteries like 1500 mah and 3500 mah well what exactly is the difference? :confused: which battery would be better to get?

If your going to buy batterys.There is one choice that is a no brainer.GP3300's they are by far the best battery out there right now.
When it comes to a charger.
I would tell you to get this one.
http://www.duratrax.com/caraccys/dtxp4130.jpg

I have it and have never had issues with it.Cost around 100 bucks but it is worth it.

Mah is Milli amp hour.The more milli amps it has the more power it can hold.Which means more runtime and overall power.Most 3000's have more run time then a 2400 but most 3000 packs dont have the punch of a 2400 pack.
With my experience the 3300's have more runtime/punch then both 3000/2400 together.