1 more.

Last one!

What the heck....one more.

DUDE.Very nice paint.I have yet to have seen anyone put some love into the "stock" body and you did it with awesome results :thumbsup:
The chebby front grill sticker looks right at home on there doesnt it???:eek:
Man plz post some more pics,So we can get a better feel of the overall look.(closer shots) maybe a rear shot "not" so close.
:TIP: get as close as having the tires in the shot but nothing else.

DUDE......thanks for the kind words. The picture posting system stinks here so here is an easier way. Just click on this-Kevin Harvick Evader ST (http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=1653975&uid=437876) There are another dozen pics for ya.

Jep,
You got an Evader owner pic page don't ya? Someone did.....anyway, feel free to grap whatever pics you want and post'em.:thumbsup:

Later guys.

Originally posted by Mavrick
Jep,
I got my truck first week of Jan and got your braces installed last night. Everything fits fine so I must have an old front. Here a pic anyway.

Mavrick -

Thanks. Out of almost a hundred of my front brace kits I had one person say (last week) the "U" shaped brace on the rear side of the front bulkhead does not fit. They believe there has been a change to the part mold. I can see yours fits fine. I am supposed to be getting pics from the person who is having the trouble, but they have been ill - I am trying to get a jump on it.

Nice truck BTW - looks like you are set up for some serious racing!

Hope my hop-ups help keep it all together.

Jep
Jep-R/C Products (http://www.geocities.com/jep_rc)

Thanks to everyone who helped with the bulkhead question. I have what I need now.

Jep
Jep-R/C Evader Hop-Ups (http://www.geocities.com/jep_rc)

What?We arent going to see this pic Jep?:D

Hi 2nd gear,

Here is a drawing. Some new ribs were added to the back-side of the bulkhead, and there is a bit more plastic where the arm mounts attach. I drew the ribs in black that have been added to the new bulkhead. Actually my local hobby shop finally got one in and I bought it. Turns out my brace set fit the new bulkhead just fine, it just didn't fit quite as *well*. I only had to take a few degrees out of the bend angle in order for it to fit real nice.

Jep

Jep-R/C Evader Hop-Ups (http://www.geocities.com/jep_rc)

Jep,
After looking at your pic of the new bulk head, mine is the same. Your brace touches the ribs on the back but still fit just fine. Can't wait to race tonite. I'll bring my camera and take some pics.

A little off track, but do any of the other old people here remember racing slot cars as kids? I bought a little battery powered kit for my 3 (almost 4) year old last week. She loved it (we've been through 2 sets of batteries already), and I thought "I wonder if evilBay..." You know the rest. Apparently there's a whole lot of people still racing and collecting them. Her new track should be here next week. I'm looking for the right cars for her birthday right now. Just what I needed, another hobby involving electricity and race cars. Somebody , please, HELP ME BEFORE I RACE AGAIN! Later.

Why an evader????????????? WHy not a T3???????????????????????

Why a T3?...........Why not an Evader?!:dude:

cost would be a big factor either way. not everyone can drop the coin for a tc3/losi/rc10, or what ever. make the best of what you can get.
for the cash the evader is the best deal. peter:)

Originally posted by indyboy
Why an evader????????????? WHy not a T3???????????????????????

I sure hope you didnt come in to start some poop,There are a good group of guys here take yourself elsewhere...................:rolleyes: :rolleyes:

Yep, I agree. I've been able to surf alot of forums and the ones run by TeamRCV/HobbyTalk are some of the best I've seen. Lots of good info and good people. Too much noise on the other boards. For Evader owners, this is definitely the place to be :thumbsup:

That telling him like it is.

Go EVST:thumbsup:

Fun truck.

Originally posted by cjtamu
A little off track, but do any of the other old people here remember racing slot cars as kids?.


Yes I do. One of my best kid memories. My Grandparents kept it at their house and I would play with it everytime we visited. Great detail and craftmanship. This was the late 50's.

Thanks for the memories cj.

Bill

Is there an actual article comparison between the Trinity Monster and the P2K and or P2K2? My track has only 1 straight and the rest is turns. I know the Monster is an RPM motor so I am thinking maybe I should reconsider my choices. Whats the diff between a P2K and a P2k2?

Thanks

Originally posted by Mavrick
Whats the diff between a P2K and a P2k2?

Thanks

The P2k is a more torquier motor then the P2K2.Myself I would recommend the P2K2 (go for the pro if ya can)
The P2K is a good motor as well heck Ive seen guys with the original paradox (thats the P in P2K/P2K2) whippin peoples butt's.Im glad I still have my Paradox armature.It is my back up.(my magnets came off the can on the paradox :eek: but the arm is fine)

Hey, if there's anybody in the Houston area interested, K&M raceway is closing. Owner's retiring and doesn't want to mess with it after. It's a great place and running about break even or better right now I think. Always a group of ready volunteers around as well. I posted a few mor details in the Evader ST racers thread, but he's hoping someone will buy the equipment and leave everything where it is.

Perhaps a newbie question here ...

I recently had a brush spring break *twice* with 5 packs in-between breaks :(

Is this par for the course, just a coincidence, or the luck of the non-Irish?

The only other info I can offer is the broken springs were both used on the inboard brush. The motor is the stock Photon and the springs are the stock Duratrax replacements.

Not a big deal since springs are cheap, but I'm just wondering why this is happening, or if a different spring is suggested?

HG

I just heard rumours that if I got 3300's it would increase my run time to nearly 30 min???? I am running a stock Evader and I have hardwired the motor, I get around 8 min with 1800's, but 30 min?? Come on??? In Canadia I can get 1800's for just under $20 and 3300's are about $40 do you thingk it's worth it. If it's 30 min I definately think so.

I own a MRC Super Brain 819. I can't find any info on it. Including their own website. Can it charge high milliamp batteries?

i too have gone through about 4 duratrax replacement springs. i told the guy at my LHS my problem and he gave me some medium tension trinitys. been running it for about 7 months and no breakage of the spring (just about everything else, though)

well if 1800mah will last 8 min then 3300 wont last more than 16 minutes if u do the math. 2 * 1800 = 3600/16minutes. so 3300 will last a bit shorter then that. if the 1800's ur talkin about are nuclear power ones that i have, definatly get the 3300. they are a lot more punchy and more fun to drive. once u try em u wont go back. i would go with sanyo cells tho, not generic ones or misc brands like nuke power. i dont know about the charger tho, if its a peak charger it should be able to do it.

hydro, dont get duratrax springs, i had no luck with them either. i used trinity ones and they never broke. i think you need heavy ones for offroading tho.

their medium compared to the ones on my P-94

p.n.e. - Yeah, I got Nuclear powered batteries as well. The Super Brain is a peak charger. But it does say it is designed explicitly :confused: for NiCd batteries. But this data (http://modelrectifier.com/catalog/item9.html) is incomplete. If I watch the heat I should be fine right? My brother in Edmonton says he can get 3300s at GreatHobbies for around $40 is that true? (if you happen to shop there).

ORBITRON:

Regarding the 3300 batteries, I have been selling all of my 1800 Nicd packs since I switched to Sanyo 3000HV packs. The other guys are correct on the run-time and punch. The run-time is probably double that of your 1800's, but the power is strong all the way through the Sanyo 3000 packs. I still get great run-times on my Evader, and I am running a 13T motor. I have been using Radio Shack's $10.99 wall chargers for my new NiMh packs with great success. They are gentle on the cells, yet give you a great charge. Only drawback is that they are overnight chargers. Buy a few packs to off-set this, and use your SuperBrain when you just-gotta-have one more run. GOOD LUCK!

where do you get your sanyo 3000 packs and how much?

Orbitron- I'd get a new charger. I'm not sure if yours is adjustable and you need to be sure you can get the correct charge rate. If you get the NiMH cells more than slightly warm you're asking for trouble, and since you won't have peak detection you'll have to just sit there and monitor the cells.

Spreckenzy:

I have ordered my Sanyo 3000HV packs from Chris at http://www.rcmadness.com/

He has provided great customer service and a great product.

Smojoe and PNE -

I found Trinity's brush/spring listings here:

http://www.teamtrinity.com/motors/brushes.asp

I'll forego the Duratrax springs and give the medium (green colored) Trinity springs a try:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJV93&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVSEARCH=trinity+spring&FVPROFIL=++

Thanks for the great advice! :wave:

HG

What's the highest amperage available for NiCDs? I don't think I can afford a new charger right now. But I could spend some $$ on new batts.

Batteries are like everything else. You can buy 2400 NiCads, but they vary in price. You can get a pair of 2400 sport batteries for $50 or so, but the internal resistance will be higher, they won't have as much runtime or punch as a better set. I have team matched Sanyo 2400s that I use for Stock Truck and they're great, but they also run $70+ for a set of 6, then you have to get shrink wrap and battery bars and solder them. It depends on what you're doing with your truck. I've heard the GP3300s are great and you can get a stick pack for under $50, but they're NiMH. I haven't used them yet, but I hear they have great punch all the way through. If you're talking about getting really good 2400 cells, it might be cheaper to get the 3300s and the new charger if you're buying several batteries. Look on Tower's or somebody's website and you'll get an idea of the battery specs and price.

OIC. I didn't know that NiCDs got that expensive that quickly. If i had only spent the extra $20 in the first place on my charger....

3300's are so much better then 2400's it isnt even funny.I personally had waisted my time buying junk once,But not anymore 3300's are my friend.(not that a matched 2400 pack is junk I have some myself but NiMh is the way to go,The 3300 variety that is)

I'm with 2nd. My 2400's are great cells, but they're really only suitable for stock and mild mod motors because you start to encounter runtime issues. And remember, with NiMH you don't have to discharge (very little memory effect) after every race so they're less of a PITA to care for. If I was going to keep racing the Evader I'd go to the 3300's.

Which brings us to the next comment. Sad but true, but I won't be racing the Evader much anymore. I just bought an RC10GT to race. Older one (tub chassis) but it's never been used. After some practice I'll upgrade to the new chassis. The good news is the Evader is staying in the family. It's actually going to my 15 year old daughter who had such a good time racing (and breaking) mine this weekend that she wants her own. Since she knows nothing about anything mechanical I'll still be wrenching on it and keep posting. Hope I get my Jep RC parts before this weekend, because this kid only knows 2 speeds. She did learn how to install a receiver and servo yesterday, because I'm keeping mine. Next lesson (as soon as the parts get here) is shock tower and front bulkhead. Sound familiar to anybody?

cjtamu:

What a coincidence, I just picked up a used FT RC10GT myself (it was too tempting to pass up). I'll be keeping the Evader esp. for when I can't make it out to the few places in town to run nitros.

Haven't found any good RC10GT forums yet, ... but Jodie Grein's site is a good place for tips:

http://www.gj.net/~geerhed/index.htm

Crescenzi Racing makes some nice hop-ups:

http://www.rc10gthobby.com/index.html

And lots of setup sheets at Associated's site. Finally, I'll be able to compare a Stealth tranny against the Evaders! (wonder how the nitro Evader's tranny will hold up?)

i do shop at great hobbies but i have no idea about the 40 dollar 3300's. i know that at wholesale hobbies it is 40-50 for a stick pack of venom 3300's tho. they are not as good as sanyo cells but at that price you cant beat em. If you are good at soldering i would suggest you buy seperate cells. i saw great hobbies had 3300 sanyos going for around 10 bucks each, which equates to about 65 bucks a pack including battery bars and some wire. They charge you somwhere around 100 dollars for an assembled stick pack which is useless if you're running a high amp draw motor and need a side by side configuration anyways.

one more thing i think you should know is that nicd's are generally more punchy than nimh's. (if you are comparing a 2400 to a 3000 say) nimh's have a flatter curve during the run though, and your car wont slow as the pack nears empty. It will instead have a sharp dropoff. Nicd's are more affected by being half empty. I would really advise you to get sanyo cells, i bought a used 2400 pack that i have abused so much it isnt funny, even ruined one of the cells, and have corrosion on the ends too. the 5 cell 2400 pack thats falling apart is still at least twice as powerful as my nuke power 1800 pack.

p.n.e-----You cant compare 1800's to 2400's the 1800 isnt even in the same league.As for 3300's vs. 2400's.The 3300 NiMh has way more punch off the line and all the way thru the pack.Ni-cad's are soon just going to be a memory.:rolleyes: :devil:

is it true that you should only run one cycle a day with nimh's?

This link provides excellent care methods for 2400's and 3000's
SMC (http://www.smc-racing.com/product.html)

First let me say, I do not work for BatteryStation. They do not pay me anything to advertise for them.

I do work in a hobbyshop part time. I am a 52 year old RC racer with 7 years of expirience. I have always bought matched packs to race with with two exceptions.

1. Shortly after Panasonic introduced the 3000 Nimh I bought a $29 zip pack to try them. They ran my 19 single powered XXX for 15 glorious minutes on the first charge. 4 charges later I was getting less than 8 minutes. Shortly after that some of the cells went bad. This was with a charger that was supposed to be OK for Nimh.

2. A month ago I bought 12 GP3300 NiMh cells from BatteryStation. http://www.batterystation.com/nicads.htm
They were $4.75 per cell. I had heard the GP3300 was a very good cell. The price was just too good to pass up.

I buildt 3 4-cell packs for my Legend. I cycled the packs twice and checked the numbers on my old Turbo30 @20 amps. I was getting 10 minute runtimes and voltage averages higher than any of my matched 4-cell packs. Well it has been said we don't race numbers we race RC cars on a track. These GP3300s are awsome. While practicing with the first pack it felt like it would never dump. I thought I had been on the driver's stand for at least 15 minutes. So for the next pack I timed my runtime with a stopwatch. I stopped the watch when as soon as the car seemed to slow. Up until I stopped the watch I was turning competative laps. I had run 19 minutes and 2 seconds.

Based on another thread at this site http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?s=&threadid=39541 my numbers are no lie. These cells are the real deal. Imagin a $28.50 (plus batt bars, wire and connector)6-cell pack.

If you have a charger that is capable of charging a Nimh pack without killing it and can handle a soldering iron you owe it to yourself to try them.

Note: A 6-cell pack will not run as long as a 4-cell. However you will have the fastest, longest running $30 pack you've ever owned.:cool:

Oh! I almost forgot. after racing these cells for a month the numbers are getting better on these cells.

Bobt-Are you telling me you run a 4-cell in your XXX?

Originally posted by 2nd Gear
Bobt-Are you telling me you run a 4-cell in your XXX?

No. Sorry for the confusion. I run a 4-cell in my Bolink Legend. When spring time rolls around I will take my 3 4-cell unmatched packs and make 2 6-cell packs for my XXX or XXXT. By then I will probably have added 2 more 6-cell packs of these cells.

Another new body I just finished. Looks pretty good.:thumbsup:

http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=1653975&uid=437876

BobT-I would hope that a 4 cell would last long in a Legend,They dont weight nothin.But your saying that a 6 cell in a legend wont last as long???

(You did a good job on your body,But I can careless about the #8):D

GMCAR (NASCAR) is mad that it hasnt had a chevy win the championship in a while so GMCAR (NASCAR) is making sure it happens this year.:rolleyes:

All that from a guy who doesnt like racing that still uses 30 year old technology.:lol:

Mavrick -

Nice work, is that an Evader body? If so, I'm wondering if it came with window masks and overspray film? And are all those decals on the top, or underneath and painted over?