Q - I emailed Duratrax and asked if the servo would interfere and they said no. So I wnt ahead and mounted the receiver on the front brace. If only I had my transmition parts....

Hey, Peter =) I chose the Pede due to its reputation for durability, as well as being more of a monster truck design. Though we bash a lot on pavement, it's pretty rough and so are the areas adjacent to the pavement (grassy, lumpy/bumpy ditches, rocks, etc) so it suits my needs more than the Evader does. All I was doing with the Evader over the past month or so was doing speed runs back and forth, power slides and jumps.

Sir Q (heh) - Misbehavin' is one of the sites I bookmarked and used while compiling the list of hop-ups that I am building my Pede with. I've changed a few things around again to run certain wheels (you'll see when I finally finish building it and have warm enough weather to paint a shell for it, then take pics) on it. I'll just say it involved getting a set of 25-degree caster blocks and longer steering links.

orbitron - welcome to the group! I can personally speak for Jep's front brace. Good to hear that you are getting one. How you managed to break the front brace without killing a bulkead is beyond me. Save those extra bulkheads, though; sooner or later you'll need them. Since adding that brace, I have smacked the front pretty hard once on one of the arms and nothing broke. I did get a bent kingpin out of it, but that's only because my Evader did about six cartwheels. I'm running HPI wheels with wide offsets, so it puts more strain on the outer linkages and with that and the carthweels, it's no wonder I bent the kingpin.

jb - Mine did that once, too, when I replaced a servo brace. Turned out that I forgot to put one of the little plastic bushing thingies back in at the bottom of the servo saver. Take a look at the brace from the side. If it's bowed upwards, make sure that the pin that goes through the servo saver (or bellcrank) is set in fully, as well as check the brass bushings that fit into both the chassis and top brace (that holds the pins).

To all - no update yet on my Evader's tranny. I haven't had time yet to yank it out to see if I trashed the idler gear or something else. I'll post an update when I find time to work on it, though.

Hey Jep,

Installed the front bumper and front brace - simple and functional(not to say it didn't take some careful thought to design them). I like 'em :thumbsup:

Haven't gotten to the rear brace yet, but a question ... I believe the purpose of the optional install step 2 is to slightly reduce the length of the hinge pins on the end where the e-clip grooves are. Correct?

Got a question..

Met someone down here that has an evader too, and would like to get together and run, but we have the same freqs. he has another trk and runs it, but we would like to put the evaders head to head. Our hobbie shop is a joke and will not sell the crystals to me (want me to brong in the radio for tuning, I know it will help, but isn't needed).

Does anyone have the part no for new crystals for the stock radio?

Don't know the part No. for the crystal set, but you can get it on Tower's website. They're just Futaba crystals, because that's what I got for my spare set.

Kitty - the very corner of the hinge pin where you thread the actual pin is where I keep breaking them. the rest of it stands up pretty good. You should have seen the cartwheels I did down this one hill. I was in an old river valley and climbed this big hill, I turned around,started coming down it and there was a rock sticking up about the size of a tire and blammo! Cartwheel action, I was in the olympics. Eventually (6-10 cartwheels)I hit level ground, landed on all fours and drove away without incident. Meanwhile it was about 5 C (40 F). I was amazed there was no damage! Which HPI wheels, The Universal SuperStars?

Originally posted by hydro_gin
Hey Jep,

Installed the front bumper and front brace - simple and functional(not to say it didn't take some careful thought to design them). I like 'em :thumbsup:

Haven't gotten to the rear brace yet, but a question ... I believe the purpose of the optional install step 2 is to slightly reduce the length of the hinge pins on the end where the e-clip grooves are. Correct?

Isnt the bumper/front brace set sweet...


As for the rear brace needing "grinding"...This is the easy way because you wouldnt have to take off more then a suspension arm to do it,But......You can also make a slight indent in your chassis to offset the 1/16th inch you need for clearance for the e clips to go on.


On to my opinions on the Evader(Including XXT parts)progress report..

Rear arms are a must!Man I hate the stock arms they are proven to be unreliable.Get the XXT's

Rear shock tower,This is ok in stock form but the strength the Losi brings is nice,The truck feels softer and more suited for the minor adjustments you sometimes need with racing due to its stiffness.

Front arms,I never had a issue with the stockers(other then the flex),But I got a awesome deal on a set of new XXT graphite arms and they are stiffer then the stock arms..

SPINDLES!!I had put on a set of XXT spindles and hub carriers and I liked the way they both worked but due to the slop that comes from not having the right size drill bit made me take off the C hubs,But I retained the spindles-And holy cow these are what ya want for steering!The truck over all is more responsive now.

Im still not convinced that the "new" slipper is that good,Some guys at my track have it and they say it isnt that much better then the original.I can still hear them slipping halfway down the straight.

I have a pic for yall to see,I had spoke to JEP about this as well.Lets see if you guys figure out what I did.. ;)
Ill have to upload it to my server.Was a lil big for this site.go here to see my pic ;) (http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid47/p610f7d552edaae6c4f733581db5a3be6/fcc2c604.jpg)

rpm gear cover modded for the evader??
if not that what?:devil:

Ok I've been dragging my feet on making some aluminum idler gears. I wanted to make 10 set's but it would be almost $100. in parts to order. So for those of you that have tranny problems I came up with this. Send me 2 Robinson aluminum pinion gears # RRP 1329, 1 Associated B2 diff. gear #9365. And a money order for $15 I will make an idler and mod the diff gear.I will pay shipping back.(use US mail should only cost abuck or so, you can also get money orders from post office) The parts will cost about $10 so for $25 youll have a bullet proof tranny. Probably about a 2 day turnaround. When your at the hobby shop pick up a set of diff rings #9367 ($1.50) you'll need those, the evader one won't work with the diff gear (but don't send them).
Any ? e-mail at 22welch@cannon.net
Rex welch
2136 Mingo view dr.
Wanamingo Mn. 55983

Originally posted by ronbeck
rpm gear cover modded for the evader??
if not that what?:devil:

Correctamoondo.:D



Has anyone tried boiling the trans case yet to see if it will stiffen it up to be able to handle the power better?The Assoc diff gear is a no brainer next rebuild I will be using one.I am also thinking of filing down the teeth on the topshaft (for those who dont know this,The topshaft is the source of the Idler wearing so dog gone fast cause of the poorly machined teeth.)
I plan on taking a file (larger triangular one) and run it across each groove the same amount of times to be as equal as I can do it.Then I will polish it after that to make it smooooth as possible.No Im not going for a chrome type finish just a smooth one :)..
If anyone might have some thoughts that I might have over looked plz fill me in I would love your input.

(I had given up on this Evader a long time ago,I sold it,Bought the same truck back just to get bit by trying to make it better like I did when I first bought it.With the aid of Jep's parts I am loving this thing.I want a Matt Francis but have put that on hold because this thing is just getting better and better with everything I do to it.For those who gave up,Boy what a waist theres alot in these trucks,Im working on selling my T3 to get Uni-shock shafts Ti-Turnbuckles/Hingepins and a motor plate.Maybe its me driving thats getting better or maybe its the truck?Dont really matter Im havin fun!)

Sorry for that last part I had to vent......................

Boiling plastic makes it more flexible and won't break as easy. I don't think filing the teeth on the top shaft will help. the outside diameter of the top shaft teeth is a little small therefore less engagement. maybe just round the corner of the teeth just a little. I broke 4 idlers in 2 weeks before I came up with this fix, I only had the tranny apart 2 times since may.( just cleaning)

Originally posted by 22Racer
Boiling plastic makes it more flexible and won't break as easy. I don't think filing the teeth on the top shaft will help. the outside diameter of the top shaft teeth is a little small therefore less engagement. maybe just round the corner of the teeth just a little. I broke 4 idlers in 2 weeks before I came up with this fix, I only had the tranny apart 2 times since may.( just cleaning)

Oh man,I dont want to make the dia. smaller.I want to knock off the edge of each tooth.Mine has good contact..It is like a meat grinder...I said I was using a Triangular file,It will be a small one just to knock off the inside tips off.Someone has used the 29 tooth pinion fix before but they ran into different problems.Might have been melting the "stock" diff gear maybe?I have a new plastic idler and before next raceday Ill be rebuilding my diff with the associated diff gear/rings,And my new idler and modified topshaft.Ill take pics of it prior to running it so If I have a explosion we can see the after :D

could someone gimme the recipe for boiled nylon?:)

Orbitron - I have the wide offset ones on my Evader with five spokes. I'll have pictures of it soon.

2nd - sounds to me like a few of the guys at the track need new slipper springs. I changed my spring at the same time I installed the new slipper set and it made a huge difference. They seem to wear out (flatten) pretty easily.

Tranny update: I finally managed to find time to clean up my Evader after the clay and dirt bash-fest recently and to take the tranny apart to see what the problem was. I was right - it was the idler gear. One tooth was missing and I had to clean everything before putting a new idler in. I'm sure it happened because I was running the truck hard over some pretty rough terrain. Enough abuse and something's bound to break. I've proved that numerous times :lol:

Originally posted by kitty
2nd - sounds to me like a few of the guys at the track need new slipper springs. I changed my spring at the same time I installed the new slipper set and it made a huge difference. They seem to wear out (flatten) pretty easily.



Not on a brand new truck?AnyHoo I use a associated slipper spring myself.I wont go back to the DTX piece ever.Assoc slipper springs take a long time to wear out.:thumbsup:

Yah! I just got my gearbox set back. When I assemble my tranny should I lube it?

Orb,

Here's what JEP said about rebuilding and lubing your gearbox internals awhile back (I'll just cut 'n paste it below for ya):


"Be sure to read through the threads "Evader Owners" and "Jerrits Evader ST FAQ" - most of the info you will need is there. [Ed. Diff must be tightened after 2-3 packs, see instruction manual. LG].

Regarding your diff, the grinding could be a damaged gear tooth on the idler gear, the diff gear, or could be grit inside the tranny and/or diff itself. You might as well get the whole tranny apart and check things out.

Examine all the teeth on all the gears carefully for damage. Replace any you are not sure of.

Disassemble the diff completely, noting which outdrive half is on which side relative to the diff bolt and diff nut. If you get the halves switched around upon reassembly, then the nut will be too close to the end of the outdrive, and the axle will hit it. I believe the Evader manual diagrams are wrong in this respect.

Clean everything completely out (I use Lysol tub and tile cleaner). When you rebuild the diff, you actually want to roughen the rings slightly with a very fine emery cloth. You want the diff balls to roll on the rings, not slide. put the cloth on a hard flat surface and rub the ring around on it a few times - you can sand both sides of the rings to make sure they don't slip in the gears as well.

Examine the ball races on the inside of the diff gear - if any of them are worn or melted, get a new diff gear too.

Re-lube the *inside* of the diff gear where the balls are with a pure silicon diff lube only (like AE diff lube).

Clean the thrust bearings really well before re-assembly. Re-lube the thrust bearing with a little bit of Associated (AE) black grease.

You can leave the inside of the tranny dry, or use a *very small* amount of White Lightning gear lube, or Losi Thick Hydra fluid to barely wet the gear teeth - be *very* conservative.

You can put a drop of bearing lube on each bearing if you wish.

Good luck, let us know if you have any trouble.

Jep
Jep-R/C Products"

Thanks for posting that. I'm limited to dial up so looking back takes sooooooooooooooo long. should I boil my tranny case first though and if so how long?

Originally posted by orbitron
Thanks for posting that. I'm limited to dial up so looking back takes sooooooooooooooo long. should I boil my tranny case first though and if so how long?
You found the recipe???:lol:

Nothing is garunteed.I was informed that boiling makes things stiffer.

No recipe yet... I thought it actually made things more flexable therefore reducing breakage. So I thought I might do this.
But I cannot figure out how my brother broke the gearbox (not the gears), he wouldn't even tell me that he did it at all. I just don't know how long to do it? and if I should add salt LOL

Orbitron:

What track(s) are available in Calgary for offroad? Any indoor, year round tracks. I am in Saskatchewan and travel to Calgary regularly.

Philip 37 as far as I know there are three tracks
carcar (indoor on road)
RcGears (an actual outdoor off road)
nitroextreme (1/8 MT track but you have to own a 1/8 to even get in)
Throw a .com on all thase names or maybe a .ca or Click Here (http://crcc.dsw.ca/forum/display_topic_threads.asp?ForumID=1&TopicID=364&PagePosition=1) this will tell you all you need to know and all I know.
The locals are heavy into T-Maxxes so don't think you'll find a lot of direct competition here. Unfortunately you will not be able to race in the winter unless you want to run on-road. Carcar allows any type of vehicle on their track but they are only open on Wed. nights and Sun.

hey guys, my problem is kinda what your talking about already so here it goes. yesterday i brought my evader to see its first dirt and was having a great time until all of a sudden a grinding noise started to resonate from the truck. upon closer inspection i noticed a pebble had gotten itself through the gear guard and had lodged itself in between 2 teeth on the pinion. after removing it and setting the mesh correctly it continued making the noise. i packed up my stuff and headed home for the day, a bit saddened. but when i got home i wanted my mom to hear the noise so i hooked up a 6 cell and the noise was gone! i think another pebble may have gotten caught in the other gears and eventually dislodged itself. does any one else have other suggestions? i want to drive this thing! any help would be greatly appreciated, have a nice day!:)

Originally posted by jacob
hey guys, my problem is kinda what your talking about already so here it goes. yesterday i brought my evader to see its first dirt and was having a great time until all of a sudden a grinding noise started to resonate from the truck. upon closer inspection i noticed a pebble had gotten itself through the gear guard and had lodged itself in between 2 teeth on the pinion. after removing it and setting the mesh correctly it continued making the noise. i packed up my stuff and headed home for the day, a bit saddened. but when i got home i wanted my mom to hear the noise so i hooked up a 6 cell and the noise was gone! i think another pebble may have gotten caught in the other gears and eventually dislodged itself. does any one else have other suggestions? i want to drive this thing! any help would be greatly appreciated, have a nice day!:)
I responded to this in the other forum..........

I have a question.Why is the FAQ thread being used as a normal thread?

You're just lucky it hasn't turned into a thread about dynos!

Originally posted by Dan the Man
You're just lucky it hasn't turned into a thread about dynos!
You know what?You have a point!:D

Just got my Jep-RC braces in the mail today. Now I'm invincible!:devil:

Originally posted by orbitron
Just got my Jep-RC braces in the mail today. Now I'm invincible!:devil:

Yeah,They are nice aint they...My next fiasco is putting a XXT tranny in this thing ;) ........................

XXT this XXT that did someone start cloning those things?:confused: As far as i have heard, you can replace the front and rear arms, the rear shock tower, wheels, kingpins, and bumper. Now you're trying a tranny? I'm living in bizarro world no? Can somebody make a comprehensive list?

Originally posted by orbitron

Can somebody make a comprehensive list?

If you ask you shal recieve.Heres a list in random as I think of them.Nothing is a Direct bolt on,There are some mods to be done in someway.

Front/rear shock towers

front hubs and carriers

front bulkhead (big time mods need for this to be "right")

rear CR hub carriers

front body mount

front shock tower "should" fit

shocks (duh:D)

front wheels

turnbuckles

there is more but these are most common from what ive read.

Go to Jerrit's Evader ST FAQ thread in the Team RCV Offroad & Dirt Racing section. On the first page, scroll down to baneonrt's response. There he talks about putting XXT front and rear suspension on his Evader. He gives part numbers as well and solutions to problems he faced doing this conversion.

Hope this helps, it helped me...
John

2nd - thanks I now know what I should clean out of my lhs.

Also,
About boiling the plastic parts on your Evader to make them less brittle:
Go to the FAQ portion of the Duratrax website. I believe they address this by saying to boil the part for 2 hours, or something like that.
But it is cold out, everything breaks when it is cold. I know, I have broken it all:)

John

EvaderMotion - Thanks for the recipe.
Has anyone in Canada ordered form Towerhobbies? I just looked at shipping rates and for one body it was $18 USD. That is te same price as the body itself? Don't you think that is ridiculous?

be careful boiling your parts.. if your not careful you could end up with liquid parts. i boiled mine for 5-10 minutes and never had a problem.

keep an eye on it..

Q2K2 I agree. But the problem for doing it for too short of a time is that the plastic returns back to it's natural state. I am personaly not going to boil my car before every run. When you boil the parts make sure they don't tocuh the bottom of the pan. If it does, yes, it will start to melt the plastic. Nice isn't it? Use a metal strainer to keep the parts elevated and away from the bottom....

Good call on the strainer..

just be careful :thumbsup:

Just got new rims and tires. :D RPM Talonz and ProLine RoadRage all the way around. I had to slice up the rims (XXX-T up front)though in order to clear the hub carriers. On the rear I used the converter kit included with the rims (designed for Traxxas trucks) but after I put in the converters it was a perfect fit. Overall it looks quite slick. If only I could find just the right body...

Originally posted by orbitron
Just got new rims and tires. :D RPM Talonz and ProLine RoadRage all the way around. I had to slice up the rims (XXX-T up front)though in order to clear the hub carriers. On the rear I used the converter kit included with the rims (designed for Traxxas trucks) but after I put in the converters it was a perfect fit. Overall it looks quite slick. If only I could find just the right body... XXXT Matt Francis :thumbsup:

Will foam tires mount on the stock white dish wheels?

I want black wheels. Are the stocker dyeable? Whats the best way to do it?

If not then how is a good way to get black paint to stick to them?

2nd - I don't particularily like the XXX-T body. The windows are too big.

But me being the inventive guy that I am :rolleyes: I will mess with the mounts somehow to get a car body on it. I was watching the Paris-Dakkar rally highlights this weekend and saw a Nissan Murano (http://www.carcostcanada.com/en/research_blvd/details.asp?sno=769&catid=5) . I love this truck. Although there is no company that makes them, I'm sure I can make a Ford Focus or something look similar.

I think someone shold make universal posts that clip onto existing posts

Mavrick - Rumour has it if you use RIT dye according to it's instructions on the box, you can dye your rims any colour that the dye comes in. I don't know for sure but maybe look here (http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/products/wheels/truck/hires/dyed.htm) . I don't know about mounting foam though.

Any experiment is worth it if you learn a lesson.

Mavrick - I don't know where I read it but I saw that all Losi XXX-T rims work on Evaders. I found a lot of info on this page (http://www.hpiracing.com/wheels-t.htm) and I think if you look around on that site you will find more info as well. Good luck

dyeing rims. i've done it to some hpi white rims. http://rpmrcproducts.com/
has a recipe. comes out okay.
posted pics of dyed rims earlier, will look for page #
peter:)

page 51 is a pic of hpi rims i dyed.:D

Hey everybody, Jep here.

I have been away from the board for a very long time. I NEED SOME HELP! Rumor has it that new Evaders (less than 2 mos old) have a modified front bulkhead with added bracing, or more "meat" to the plastic. I *desperately* need a picture or drawing that shows me specifically what has changed. I am told my brace piece does not fit the new bulkhead well, and I want to modify it appropriately. My LHS doesn't have one, and all the pics on Tower and Duratrax are old.

Any help here would be greatly appreciated, and rewarded with your choice of a free Jep-R/C part. Thanks!

Jep
Jep-R/C Products (http://www.geocities.com/jep_rc)

Jep I'm going to send in 1 or 2 bulkheads and I'll let you know if they send me a different one.

They did strengthen it awhile ago, I have those in stock, I just got your braces so I'll install one and see if it fits.

Thanks Guver,

I was told by someone with a brand new Evader that the brace that goes across the rear of the bulkhead interferes with something. I want to modify the brace so it fits both but I can't get my hands on a new style bulkhead or a picture of one. Any help would be appreciated. You cam email me from here, or my website. Thanks.

Jep

Jep,
I got my truck first week of Jan and got your braces installed last night. Everything fits fine so I must have an old front. Here a pic anyway.

The stock Evader ST was fun for a week and I had to change a few things.
1-Got Jep's braces on front and rear.
2-Got TRC pink and purple foams for local carpet track.
3-Got RPM Chrome Monster Claws with Pro-line dirts hawgs (rear) and ribbed Pro-line steers for when spring gets here.
4-Got new servo...Hi-Tech HS 625 MG Hi Torque.
5-Got new clear Duratrax body. Got a face lift with Pro-line off-road decal kit (Silverado grill). Slixx graphics....Kevin Harvick #29 from RCR. This is my first ever paint job and think it turned out real awesome.
6-Got all Deans connecters.

I think this little project turned out real good so far. I better take pics now because it will never look the same after Monday night.

Pic of truck