My son is the reason I bought the evader, I only had him for 3 weeks. Now I have to get another one by Aug 1 when he comes back. As far as the track thank God for a/c, its smoking down here and summer hasn't started yet. 92degs-100% humidity with another 8-to 10 degs to go.

Hi Evader Owners - I need your opinions!

I have pictures of my flexible front bumper design up on the Jep-R/C website:
http://www.geocities.com/jep_rc/photos102.html

Please let me know your opinions/questions about this product. It is made out of heavy-duty, flexible black vinyl. I am planning on selling them in a 2-pack (a free spare for when it gets scratched up). I am having some fabricated and they will be available in about a week. Thanks!
Jep

hello all, i just bought a evader also and i am very very new to rc racing.before my rc cars were ones you bought at walmart.so when i opened this one up and ran it for the first time..all i could say was WOW!!!!!!!......but i also had a major problem.the gear in the tranny was warped.and what i was playing around with was only giving me half of what the car can do....so i orderded a new part and it should be here next week...

after reading all the post i have seen about the evader.what it sounds like i need to do.and remember i am new to this so the terms and stuff you all are talking about is like klingon to me......is new springs.softer...better tires...the parts that Jep sells.and also a little stronger motor...see i want to get into RACING.and well i cant afford a real dirt track roundy round car.i can afford a RC car..well since my local hobby shop sold me one for 40 bucks due to her going out of busness....and anyway i just wanted to say hi and i am looking forward to chatting with you all......to bad noone is close to St. Louis..would be fun to sit face to face and learn this stuff......if you know of anything else i could due to make my car better let me know...my ears are open...lol..any way hello

Kevin

Hey capt welcome I'm also new to trucks but being in and out of r/c for about 8 years best thing is maintance. If your going to stay with it upgrade to better parts when possible. The front braces that jep sells sounds like a very solid protection, mine should be here today. I destroyed my gearbox jumping from dirt to asphalt looked cool but had a total rebuild. I've run about 10 batterys through since and tore it apart last night for cleaning and inspection the gears looked perfect. Don't do my mistake dirt-asphalt-2feet air do not mix well. the servo arm won't last long if your hard on the walls, I have already broke 3 (my 9 year old did 2) get a spare. besides stripping out ball studs it has been a solid truck, I'm very hard on it trying to keep up with losi buggies at my local track. Good luck everyone here seems readily helpful.

Hello Captain!
I'ts great that you have decided to join this hobby. I Notice you say want new tires and a motor. As for tires, I can't give you a recommendation because I only have one different pair, and those are Dirt Hawgs 2 all-terain tires from proline, and they aren't the best for racing. For a new motor you might want to look at a team orion orbital 2 BB, a trinity Speedgems 2 (although I hear the end bell melts if you over-gear it), or maybe a stock 27 turn motor or a 19t spec motor, both of which have their own, specific class at some races. A 19t motor will be marginally faster than the 20t motor that comes with the evader. As for stock motors, you might try a reedy mpv, the team orion core (or is it chrome?) Stock, or one of the few from trinity. I only have info about the p2k, the p2k2, and the green machine 3. I hear that the p2k has the most torque of the three and the least rpm,the green machine 3 has the most rpm and the least torqe, and the p2k2 is right in the middle. For 19t spec motors, I would go with a reedy 19t spec motor (called just that) or a trinity chameleon.
Just keep in mind that the sprint esc on the evader can handle down to 16 turns only ( I wouldn't go below 17, just to be on the safe side).
Hope this helps!
JB

Welcome Capt.
Everyone always wants to put a fast motor on right away. Just run that photon for a while, it's less maint than a racing motor, and has decent power. The tires seem ok but the foam is so soft the truck seems to fishtale alot, once you put different ones (especially the rear) on you won't put the stock ones back on. I raced roundy round for 9 years, I'm taking a couple years off to spend time with the kid's (12 and 8) Rc is great for the family.
Good luck!!

(here's a pic of my stock car it's just sitting in the garage, it's for sale no buyers yet)

Hey capt. just my $0.02 I burned the comutater up in less than 2 weeks in the stock photon. Not to say I did run the crap out of it, but cleaned it very well. There is not much copper there. I bought a stock 27 turn orion core which is a new model of the chrome. It ran stonger than the photon. Today I went to the track and bought a p2k2 pro 27 turn which I feel is a little stronger. Finished 2nd in the first heat (1st was a losi buggy). I ran the second heat and lost the pins in the dogbone with no spares. Had to come home with just pride of the fastest lap by 2 sec. Several people who looked down on the evader was impressed by the performance it gave. One thing I learned was to put alittle heat shrink on the u-joint,that would have keep in the race. Just my 2 penny's Dan.

Oh,by the way I tried the losi xxt dogbone upgrade and it ewas a little to long 1/8" or so. Don't wast $50 bucks like me.

Looks great Jeff. Where does it's inspiration come from. I think I have seen something similar on some other off road units.

You can count on me for a pair or three. As well, I will be needing another front pin brace set for my third evader that is on it's way.

Thanks guys for the welcome to your hobby, from what i have read so far, it looks like the motor in the stock Evader is good for practicing with and getting use to fast powered RC cars.but it isnt worth a hoot in a race.so i will be getting a better motor...

Ok next question..shocks and springs..what do you guys suggest and where can i gett hem from...also is there any good books that will help me learn all the parts and what does what and how to notice what to do and where to do it..lol...i told ya i am a nebie..hehehehe
thanks again.oh by the way..wait till you see wha i did paint job wise to my body."car"....i love it..heheheh
talk to you soon and again thanks

Capt_Wiseone
Kevin

People-
any of you guys ever get close enough to the Associated Stealth Transmission to know if it would remotly fit the evader? i know its like 90 bucks, but if its better made than the one thats supplied by Duratrax, i might buy it.

Capt-
you can get shocks and shock stuff off towerhobbies.com everything you'll ever need (except team losi stuff. it seems they stopped carrying team losi stuff) will be on www.towerhobbies.com

Captain-
Go to www.towerhobbies.com and read their "getting started in rc" page. Also try the getting started page at www.hobbypeople.net. For just getting started in racing I would go with a stock motor. An inexpensive sanyo 1500 pack should give you enough run time and quality.
Smojoe-
Have you been having problems with the evader's wheels? My front wheels are cracked where the inside bearing sits, and my back wheels are starting to go.
Does the associated t3 rtr have the stealth tranny? If it does, I don't think it will fit. I was cleaning my friends t3 and it doesn't look like the mounting holes line up. I'll check, because he has a stripped gear so his trany has to be taken out anyway.
JB

JB-
you can say iv been having troubles. i cracked the wheel in half and put it back together with some CA glue. i cant buy another set because im saving up for the JR racing XR2. and the stealth tranny, i wouldent expect it to line up, but maybe could use the gears in it and work from there. latley i havent had any problems with the tranny, but thats because iv been running on road, but once i get the new wheels, somethings gonna break....

Smojoe-
Are you going to get the wheels from duratrax or another company? If you get aftermarket wheels, I would like to know how they hold up. I know Associated wheels work, at least in the rear (probably not the front.)
JB

jep_rc,

Looks functional to me. Just what you need if your truck looks like a lawn-dart comming off jumps.:lol:

How is it for telephone poles and mailbox posts?

It should save a lot of front end damage.:thumbsup:

Originally posted by BobT
<snip>How is it for telephone poles and mailbox posts?
It should save a lot of front end damage.:thumbsup:

Thanks for looking BobT - (a true story) right after I put the bumper and a set of braces on my son's (8 years old) Evader he ran full speed into a concrete curb in front of our house. He broke the top brace (the one that goes from the back of the bulkhead to the servo brace) and he snapped the chassis in half at the rear (like the inertia of the motor weight just flipped up the rear of the chassis and snapped it straight across where the rear plate attaches.) No damage to the bulkhead or a-arms though. I was able to repair the chassis with a couple of braces and some JB Weld.

Jep

JB-
associated is right, if they fit. if not, i saw some pro-line ones at my LHS, so if the AE ones dont fit, maybe those will. tires, im gonna get edge, because thats what seems to be the best on my poll.

Originally posted by JB_The_Evader
Does anybody know if a 550 (emaxx)sized motor will work in an evader?

i saw a 550 boat motor at my other LHS and it might fit. the motor would be a tight squeeze, but it was like 50 bucks, and i wouldent buy something if i was taking a chance.

i learned something important just now. if you dont torque down the motor mounting screws, when you hit something, the motor will push away from the spur instead of stripping gears. :thumbsup: this just worked for me and may not work for anyone else, but im just telling you this for information sake.

(disclamer: the only reason i did this is because my slipper pad was busted. this was the only other way i could save the tranny from blowing gears. i know some of you are against this, and i remind you this is for INFORMATION sake. so if you ever come into a jam like i did, you could either not run your car for a month or just try this.)

thanks for your time,
smojoe

Originally posted by smojoe
i learned something important just now. if you dont torque down the motor mounting screws, when you hit something, the motor will push away from the spur instead of stripping gears. :thumbsup: this just worked for me and may not work for anyone else, but im just telling you this for information sake.

smojoe,

If you do this your motor can back away from the spur in normal driving. This would "top" the gear. By topping I mean stripping the tips of the gear. (not good) To protect your tranny gears and differential use your slipper clutch.
;)

hey Bob T..i noticed you live not far from St. Louis..and i live just on the other side of the river in IL,....is there any clubs in the area to join..i noticed that st louis had a club called dirt Slingers RC Club but cant get much info on them yet...also i am very new to this and no one around me is into RC racing so i am looking for some buddys to hang with and learn the ropes and have fun....anyway just wanted to let ya know i dont live to far from ya....

Kevin

capt-
how are you new to this if you have 116 posts?

I was thinking about getting titanium turnbuckles for my evader. I was wondering, if the turnbuckle that I want to get is 3mm too long or too short will it still fit without aney problems, such as stripping.

Here is the link of the turnbuckles that i want to get. You can see that four of them are too short(by 3mm), and two of them are too long(by 3mm).:roll:http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p.pgm?Q=1&I=LXVG60&P=7

Originally posted by smojoe


wrong... well, at least with a p-94 12 turn. i actually torqued mine down all the way, then loosened it up about 1/8 a turn. with the stock motor, topping it will happen, but not with a higher torque, more RPM version.


capt-
how are you new to this if you have 116 posts?

I post on a modeling board to that uses this forum.CultTVman modeling forum...they both use the same host so all the post i have ever made keep counting...

I was wondering how long it would take before someone asked me that question...lol
Capt_Wiseone
Kevin

Originally posted by Capt_Wiseone
hey Bob T..i noticed you live not far from St. Louis..and i live just on the other side of the river in IL,....is there any clubs in the area to join..[snip!]
Kevin

Hey Kevin,

You bet there is a club you can join. The St. Louis Dirtburners has been around for almost 14 years. We race in Kirkwood on Marshal Road. Check out our web site at http://www.dirtburners.org/. We race every Saturday all electric and nitro off-road classes. Tuesday nights we run nitro only and Wednesday is electric only. You don't have to be a member to race. Membership gets you voting rights, hobbyshop discounts and $2 off each class you race.

We will be holding the Kyosho Nitro Challenge race August 23 thru 25th. Look for our add in the next RCCA mag. This race has been run in Detroit the past several years.

This is one of the largest national races all the big names will be there. No ROAR membership is required. Hope to see you soon. Look for the old guy pitting out of the silver Focus ZX3.

Originally posted by smojoe
wrong... well, at least with a p-94 12 turn. i actually torqued mine down all the way, then loosened it up about 1/8 a turn. with the stock motor, topping it will happen, but not with a higher torque, more RPM version.

Hi Smoejoe,

I don't understand the logic here, why does the motor type matter? If the motor shifts from it's mounting position, it seems *any* motor *could* strip the spur gear. It doesn't make sense to me to do anything other than crank down those motor mount screws and let the slipper clutch protect the gears. (my 2 cents for what it's worth).

Jep
Jep-R/C Evader Hop-Ups
http://www.geocities.com/jep_rc/index.html

For everyone's information, you NEVER want to run any car or truck with the motor screws loose. That is one sure way to strip your spur gear.

Second, think about it... if you hit something, 99% of the time you hit going forward. If the screws are loose that will force the motor tighter against the spur gear... not away from it.

I've been doing this for 15+ years, trust me, don't run with your motor screws loose.

fine, fine.... you can do what you want to do, i do that i want to do. if anything bad happens, i'll tell you. oh, it wasent "loose" rater not extreamly tight. im a backyard basher, so if somethin blows during a run, i dont really care. oh, and if i run the screws loose at all, i cant even make it from my tv room(where i work on my car) to the door. like i said before, i torque it down, then back it off 1/8 a turn. i, perosnally, cant move it (but then again, im pretty weak) and after doing donuts in the gravel, the motor doesent move a millimeter(well, maybe). besides, im getting the new slipper pads, so i wont have to do that anymore to save the tranny.

D'OH! NOW i remember what i had done! the day the motor slipped away from the spur i had put some silicon grease on the washers thinking they were the washers from the slipper! then, after it had happened, i went in and cleaned everything off. how stupid am i?

jep or whoever has changed their shock oil-
im having trouble getting the shock caps off. how did you guys get them off?


sory bout the whole thing with the motor,
smojoe

I got one of those vice-grip plier/wrench things and tightened that down on the cap and held the body with my hand as tightly as I could. The pliers really marred up the plastic shock cap, but that doesn't matter.
JB

ok, because i was using needlenose pliers and it beat the snot out of the plastic cap, so i'll try a vice-grip next.

Smoejoe
I have a fix for the tranny, I join 2 29 tooth Robinson aluminum pinion gears. Then bore them out for the stock bearings. Then I take a 2:40 Asc. diff gear and bore the bearing hole out. I was blowing trannys left and right, haven't had any problems since. Anyone having problems should let Duratrax know, the problem is the material. I can alter some gears, but I would like to do at least 10 of them $20 -$25 each pair.

To get the shocks apart I used a screwdriver or allen wrench through the hole in the solid end. then I used a Cresent wrench to loosen the plastic cap.

I like the new Losi wheels

22-
to much work for me. i'll just wait till you start selling them.

22Racer,

Have you contacted Duratrax with your solution/findings? If they have good customer relations they should welcome this info.

Nice work!

just got my JR racing XR2. took me like an hour and a half just to set and install the thing...

22 and all -
I came up with my own tranny mod that seems to be holding up for me, but it was a *lot* of work. I bought a Traxxas 30 tooth aluminum idler - it uses a 5mm x 11mm bearing, so it fit on the stock Evader idler shaft, but since the Traxxas idler has one more tooth, it was a very tight fit between the top shaft and diff gear. Also, the Traxxas idler is a bit wider, so the tranny housing would not close all the way. First, I used a dremel grinding wheel to open up the tranny housing - that took about 2 hours of careful work. I then reduced the diameter of the diff gear, idler, *and* top gear. I also used a triangle file to open up the mesh slightly between the idler and top gear (manually filing each tooth on both. I filled the tranny with Losi Heavy Hydra drive oil and ran it for about four hours to break in the gears. Finally, I tore it apart and cleaned everything out, put just a drop of Hydra fluid on each gear. It runs great, man I have neer heard an Evader some like this one - it hums, and is tight and smooth :devil:. I will report back on how long it lasts. (sorry for the long post)

Jep

I have an idea: Robinson Racing Products makes great gears, why not just email them and suggest a titanium tranny kit for the evader. Of course, everybody's blowing their tranny know, and RRP would take a while to make the gears, if they even decided to make them.
JB

JB-
if they would agree to do that, it would be awsome. no more driving slow with my P-94.

anyone-
where would i find some good Ti turnbuckles for the evader? it would be nice to have some Ti on my evader, and that would be the thing to have.

Jep

Did you mean that the transmission emits a humming sound. Think of noise like heat. They are results of increased friction or vibration. However, if the new gears are heavier, then these increases may be more than tolerable. Very interesting on your gear mesh break in using the completely oil filled trany. Would you reccomend that the running be done under no load?

Smoejoe,
You can get TI turnbuckles in about any length, maybe not in a set because of varied lengths. I think there's other places to improve before turnbuckles(the factory ones are pretty good). The hinge pins are way to soft, try losi or asc. ones. I made all titanium ones for ours, most are 1/8 inch just had to drill the holes. I also made titanium front spindles that are hollow, but you can put aluminum Losi ones on. I think if you replaced all the screws with aluminum ones it would save as much weight as the turnbuckles.

Philp37 - (re: humming, tranny. etc) I would not recommend this particular mod to anyone (I used the Traxxas 1996x idler) - it was very difficult, and yes, everything was very tight at first. It probably took me 6 hours of work to get the clearances all tweaked in to get the friction down. By humming, I mean the finished tranny makes a lower pitched sound than when it was stock - it had more of a high-pithced whine before, now it just sounds better (not loud, just a nice hum):thumbsup:.

This tranny deal has been a real poser for me. I have never broken anything in my son's Evader tranny, and we run the exact same setup, sometimes I even race his truck. But I would blow an idler *every* time I raced mine. I had a new top-shaft, new idler, new diff gear, rebuilt diff, *and* new housing, and it blew within 5 minutes - thats when I gave up and tried this aluminum idler tweak. I am still looking for a better way.

Jep

FYI - For anyone wanting to play around with their tranny, here is some gear information I gathered in my research. If anyone can fill in the number of teeth on the XX diff gear, or any other missing info, please post. Hope this is useful.
Jep

IDLER GEARS
Evader Idler Gear (DTXC8080) (key#17)
48 pitch, 29 teeth
5mm x 10mm bearings

B2 Nylon Idler Gear (ASC 9360)
48 pitch, 28 teeth
3/16 x 3/8 bearings

Traxxas Aluminum Idler Gear (1996X)
48 pitch, 30 teeth
5mm x 10mm bearings

HGI B2 precision Delrin Idler Gear (1527)
48 pitch, 28 teeth
3/16 x 3/8 bearings

DIFF GEARS
Evader Diff Gear (DTXC7402) (key#18)
48 pitch, 48 teeth
5mm x 9mm bearings

B2 Diff Gear (ASC 9365)
48 pitch, 49 teeth
5/32 x 5/16 bearings

RC10/T Diff Gear (ASC 6580)
48 pitch, 45 teeth

GT Diff Gear (ASC 7664)
48 pitch, 52 teeth

HGI RC10/T Alloy Diff Gear (1845)
48 pitch, 45 teeth

HGI XX Alloy Diff Gear (1846)
48 pitch, ?? teeth
5mm x 8mm bearings

HGI XXT Alloy Diff Gear (1847)
48 pitch, 46 teeth

HGI B2 Alloy Diff Gear (1848)
48 pitch, 49 teeth
5/32 x 5/16

HGI GT/T2 Alloy Diff Gear (1852)
48 pitch, 52 teeth

Originally posted by smojoe
just got my JR racing XR2. took me like an hour and a half just to set and install the thing...

Try programming a JR-R1 sometime. But it's worth the effort.

JR, Feel the difference!

bobt-
lol.... it took me 5 hrs to figure out how to adjust the brakes and i still havent found out how to use the 2 model memorie...

people-
when you send in a broken part to duratrax, how do you send it in? do you just throw it in an envelope, seal it, put a stamp on, then put on an address and return address and send it in or what?

Originally posted by smojoe
<snip>how do you send it in?<snip>

I put it in an envelope with a copy of my receipt, a short note explaning I desire replacement under the Stress-Tech warranty, and my return address and contact information. I take it to the post office and send it First Class mail (usually about 45 to 65 cents depending on the part). I use the post office to make sure I have exactly the right postage and no more/ no less.

Duratrax also has a service request form here:
http://www.hobbyservices.com/forms.html
but I never use it if I'm just getting a stress-tech replacement.

Jep
Jep-R/C Evader Hop-Ups
http://www.geocities.com/jep_rc/index.html

i didnt send in a receipt and they send me a new steering arm, but i did include a note with e-mail and street address. i got mine as a gift for x-mas(01') so i dont have a receipt i can send in.

Originally posted by jep_rc

I use 30 or 35 weight oil and the Duratrax white (soft) springs.

jep-
i know you posted this a while ago, but did you put the 35 wt. oil in the front or back?

Jep-
do you know how many teeth are on the evader top-shaft gear? Thanks.
Jb

SmoJoe - 35wt in front and rear - I haven't tried different weights in front/rear yet.

JB - Evader Top-Shaft info:
Topshaft w/18 Tooth Gear
One 2x10mm roll pin
Two 5.4mm washers

Jep
Jep-R/C Evader Hop-Ups
http://www.geocities.com/jep_rc/index.html