just balloon the whole reciever and stuf it on with double sided tape. thats what i did

2G - Nevermind, I see the 3M velcro has self-adhesive backing :thumbsup:

pne - I actually tried your approach and found the tape wouldn't stick to the balloon's latex material. I probably should have cleaned w. alcohol and/or used better tape. Thanks.

HG

Originally posted by hydro_gin
2G,

How did you attach the velcro to the chassis and receiver - shoe goo?

The other ideas were good, but I like yours because you can easily remove the rcvr if you have to. Good feedback on the servo tape, think I'll pass on that. I'll probably rubberband a piece of balloon over the top of the rcvr to keep dirt from getting into the connector recepticles.

HG
I use 3M velcro.I clean the chassis and reciever/speedo with windex or alcohol and the velcro has a sticky backing just like servo tape.Imagine duct tape with velcro on top thats basicly how the 3M brand velcro is.Some call it locking strap I think?
Here ya go.I bought my last batch of velcro from radio shack when I stopped in there.They sell 3M brand (Im sure y'all have heard of 3M)
radio shack super lock strips (http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CTLG%5F005%5F011%5F000%5F000&product%5Fid=64%2D2360)

2G - I appreciate you looking up the link for me. Never knew RS sold stuff like that, but heading there tomorrow.

Hydro,
i also use the Velco method like 2nd but i had some 1/8" thick foam tape laying around so i cut a piece the same length and width of the reciever to give it a little cush. then i put a thin layer of CA glue between the chassis, foam tape, and velcro. i think the foam tape alows a little bit of 'give' which helps out alot when bashing or racing.

good luck..

PS.. nice antenna idea Bill.. how did you EVER think of that one? :lol:

Q,

PS.. nice antenna idea Bill.. how did you EVER think of that one?

Never claimed ownership, only said it works. I've never had an original idea in my life.:lol: :wave:

I just saw that ROAR approved the GP 3300 cells. Sure glad I didn't buy new batteries yet. I don't know this may be old news, I haven't been on-line in a week.

Jacob- Now that you have the squeal in your diff, keep tightening it in small increments (about 1/8 turn) until it goes away. When it goes away you're set. Run a pack through it, and if it loosens tighten it about 1/8 turn. That's how I adjust mine and it's been great.

finally got my new bulkhead and installed Jeps front brace. the Evader has been down and out for almost a month waiting for parts.. she meets the track again tonight.. YEEEEE HAW!

no worries on the antenna deal bill..

believe me, you got me back on the slipper digs :lol:
which works great by the way :thumbsup:

hydro_gin - servo tape should stick that receiver back on it's original foam block. I've removed and put back my receiver so many times it's not even funny. The top of the foam block was getting a bit rough and chunky so I filled the gaps with shoe goo the last time and stuck the receiver back on. So far it's holding pretty tight. Ah, just spotted your post and found that you've discovered the wonders of having shoe goo and servo tape around. I don't mind having to remove the servo tape from stuff. Just takes a little work.

Jon - dang! I wish I'd known you were selling your Super Rooster along with a 9T motor! just my luck.

2G - The other name for velcro is "hook and loop fastener." Velcro is a trade name, but most people call anything like it Velcro.

ehy just wanted to let every one know, i will be posting a set up sheet for the evader on sunday night in the evader racer post. it looks general enough to be used by the buggy or the truck, maybe the nitro truck, but i have yet to se the suspension set up on that.

later
Matt:rolleyes:

just backordered a d5 8t double from tower hobbies, gonna see if the 8t pro and the tranny will handle it. I'll let everyone know what I think of it when I get it.

I hope I can control it!!

JR

Hey Hydro Gin and Mames. Just want to thank you guys for your orders. I have all the new Jep-R/C parts in stock and your orders will ship Monday.

Jep
Jep-R/C Products (http://www.geocities.com/jep_rc)

heh, sorry about that kitty. I would offer you it but its already sealed up and ready to ship, just waitin on the money to come in.

hey just wanted to let every one know the set up sheet is going to be up on team rcv soon. enjoy

jep - can not wait for the braces

later
matt

I just got my Evader ST and after 4-5 packs the ball differential seems to be very loud compared to when I took it out of the box. While its running it sounds like a (jacket)zipper. When I turn the rear wheels while in hand the diff makes noise. The bearings just seem to make alot of noise and don't seem to roll very smooth. This is my first RC and don't know if its normal. I did adjust the diff per the instructions. Don't know what else to do.

Seems like that slipper clutch is squealing real bad also at take off. I did tighten it and it feels pretty tight. Is this nut easy to strip? If not I'll keep cranking on it till it stops squealing.

How's a good way to snow proof this truck so I don't fry anything? Spring is far off and I want to run it outside. My house isn't big enough. Keep running into stuff.

Thanks for your input. At 71 pages, this thread is very long so I didn't have time to read everything.

One more thing.....anybody from Alaska. I would like to set up an off-road track in Wasilla. Just wondering if there's enough interest.

Mavrick- Tighten the slipper all the way (don't crank down on it, but just till you feel some resistance). Then, tighten your diff in 1/8 turn increments until the squealing sound stops. Then, you're set. If it starts to squeal again, just follow the same process. The directions Duratrax gives you are too hard to follow because everybody has a different definition of "just tight". When you finish, be sure to loosen the slipper up, because this gives you more traction and it protects the diff gears. It will depend on the surface you're running on, but I run mine at least 2 turns out from fully tight.

I have no idea how to snowproof it, because it hasn't snowed here in more than 10 years. That's why Texas annexed Colorado, so we'd have someplace to ski.

Well after 4 months or so of owning my evader i've realized that its a great truck for anyone who's looking to bash or race. its good to see that some have even started a 'racers only' thread. i'd like to be at the track some time when an evader beats a losi or associated truck. thats gotta be a good feeling as a driver.

i've also realized that although this is a great truck, it doesnt fit my driving style anymore. just wanted to say thanks to those of you that have helped me out with my Evader (that now sports a nice new Jeps R/C front brace, Thanks Jeff). if anyone is looking to add to their collection let me know, i put mine on the hobbytalk swap'n sell for now but it'll go on ebay maybe next week if no one picks it up. just wanted to offer it to you guys/gal first.

thanks again
Q:wave:

Regarding Mavrick's snow-proofing question. I am in Wisconsin, and with light snow on the ground, I have run my Evader with the receiver and speedcontrol covered with balloons. Just get some heavy duty party balloons and stretch them over the unit with the wires all coming out the hole in the end. I fastened the speed control back on with a zip tie after covering it, and I used a velcro strap for the receiver. I also covered up the servo area with some strips of carefully placed duct tape. This keeps enough moisture out that I have not ruined my servo yet! The balloons work so well that I will probably run them in the summer too for dirt protection, as long as the temp doesn't get too high.

Remember, the plastic parts are much more brittle in the winter, so DON'T HIT ANYTHING!

FYI- If you guys haven't tried the Sanyo 3000HV NiMh batteries yet, do not wait any longer! These are simply amazing! The run time is sooooo much longer than my old 1500 and 1800 NiCds! And they have great punch all the way through the pack!

1. Remove the cover revealing the spur and pinion gears.
2. Tighten the slipper all the way
3. Back off the slipper ¼ turn.
4. Hold the right rear wheel and spur gear so they cannot turn
I use the heel of my hand to hold the tire to a table top while holding the spur with my fingers.
5. Try to turn the left wheel with your left hand.
It should be almost impossible to turn the left wheel. If so stop. Your diff is good.
If you can turn the wheel and the slipper shaft is not turning your diff is too loose.
6. Tighten the diff 1/8th turn and re-test.
7. Repeat until the wheel will not turn without turning the slipper.

Once the diff is adjusted you will need to set the slipper. This can be fun!
1. Turn your radio and truck on
2. Hold the truck out in front of you, holding it by the rear wheels. The truck should hang nose down.
3. Have some one pull full throttle on the transmitter. Be careful it does not hit you in the nose.
If the truck comes up above level the slipper is too tight. Loosen it and re-test.
If the truck comes up between ½ to level you are good.
If the truck does not come at least ½ way up tighten the slipper a little and re-test.

That’s it!

Thanks cjtamu, mrfixit54016, and BobT.....this is some real good info. I am originally from WI myself. Used to live in Tomahawk. Used to drive the snowmobile trail groomer for Northwoods Passage Snowmobile Club.

Jep - Looking forward to getting the braces.

Q2K2 - Thanks for the tips you've given me. Have fun with your new Pede!

Mavrick - The procedure cited by Bob T for adjusting the ball diff and slipper clutch has been posted before and I've found it works very well. I've also found that 12" party balloons work better than the 9" for protecting my Futaba R122J receiver (which is the same size as the Duratrax-branded rcvr if you got the RTR Evader). I used a pair of scissors to cut about an inch off the end, then stretched it over the rcvr/cables/antenna like a beanie cap. It fits nice and snug. If you're looking for velcro per MrFixit's suggestion, try the self-adhesive ones from 3M available at Radio Shack. Someone else here turned me on to it - very secure, much better than the old velcro:

http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CTLG%5F005%5F011%5F000%5F000&product%5Fid=64%2D2360

Just be sure to clean all surfaces with rubbing alcohol or degreaser.

Thanks Hydro..

Hey Q, you can always pop in over here from time to time even though you won't have an Evader soon. I'm still driving mine for now. Well, sorta.

There is a lot of construction going on around here, especially a creek improvement project behind our house. The side street is a royal mess right now. Well, last week, we were bashing on the rough side street (lots of deep ruts from heavy machinery, torn up pavement covered in heavy clay, etc) and on my final battery pack, the ol' Evader started making some strange noises. I checked for rocks stuck between an axle and the gearbox, inside the gear cover and everywhere else I could think of but no dice. Soon I'll be yanking the gearbox out again and check to see if I finally killed an idler gear, because the terrain was pretty rough and I was really putting my truck through its paces. I can live with a hosed idler gear. If the diff assembly is toast again, I'm gonna be pissed because I just rebuilt it and had it tweaked just right.

More as things develop. Y'all take care!

BobT,
I put that diff and slipper set up on my truck and WOW, what a difference. Hooks up hard, hardly no spin, and no squealing. Good job!!! Thanks.

Bill and Q2K2
That credit card trick mentioned a few pages ago, does it lose range and how long has this been going on in your camp?

p.n.e
good to see an Albertan in here. even though by default you are my arch-nemesis.;)

In a few different forums I saw high praise for Jeps braces; are they really that great? Sorry Jep I know you're here.

sorry im forbidden to speak with the enemy... just kiddin.:D nice to see you too! if you smack into a lot of stuff the brace set is a good idea. for that price you can go wrong. i think jep has some combo deal goin on so you can get all of his products for a good price.

i too am gonna sell my evader, that is if anyone will actually buy it (lol) it was an awesome begginer truck and now im looking to move on to nitro. 1/8 buggies to be exact.

did you get your stampede running yet? have been wondering why you choose a stanpede? and what upgrades hav you done or planning on? i also want to move up to a new kit, but when i do i going to go 4 wheel drive. looking into tamiya, but have a sweet spot in my heart for a e-maxx.:eek: we already have a rustler(kids) and santa brought them a tamiya mini cooper, and i also have a partially tricked out micro. just wondering peter :cool:

P.N.E My brother is in Edmonton and he is going to buy a truck with his tax return. Gimme some details and perhaps it will be yours. Is yours the first run (very breakable)or the second run (kinda breakable? Also, are you Edmonton from that other forum with Kitty and pudder? If so tell me what XXt parts you have used. Thanks.

Hey Peter,
if your looking for a monster truck and want to read up on kittys upgrades to her ePede Kit you can read them on the "Electric Stampede" Thread here on Hobbytalk

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?s=&postid=358837#post358837
you'll probably have to scroll back a few pages but she listed hop'ups and Part #'s

i'll throw this in quickly, if you want 4wd MT theres a guy selling graphite 4wd converstion chassis on ebay for cheep

Q

orbitron,
welcome to the thread..

i havent actually done the internal antenna yet. i had already put a hole in my lid before reading about them. the people i've talked to have not once said anything about loosing range.

i'll be doing this when i paint up a new lid.

i think we both read about these on the 'pit area' page on an RC site
http://www.misbehavin-rc.com/

lots of great tips on this site

hope this helps
Q

Q. O. I. C. Thanks for the link. I was thinkin to put the card lengthways and lean it from the servo brace up to the shock tower. But maybe I should mount my receiver on the servo brace. Or do you think there will be interference there from the servo?

honestly i couldnt tell you for certain if there would be interference or not. i have my reciever mounted on the side next to the battery tray. i put a few pieces of foam tape underneith so i didnt have to dremel the side of the tray to get it to fit. oh.. i have a futaba reciever that didnt fit like the stock Duratrax receiver. yours may be different.

i think the card idea leaned forward would work well. let us know if you decide to do it that way.

Q

this thread has the most helpfull people of any that i go to.
thanks again.:wave:

Anytime Peter:thumbsup:

thats what we're here for. there are some good people on the Stampede forum too. Bill being one of them.

hope to see you there too.

now if only someone can help me sell my truck:rolleyes:

Originally posted by orbitron

In a few different forums I saw high praise for Jeps braces; are they really that great? Sorry Jep I know you're here.

Ill give you my opinion on Jeps front brace.( I havent got his rear brace,front bumper in the mail yet :thumbsup: )But I had used a XXT front bulkhead brace for a long time (this is basicly the same front brace Duratrax offers for the Evader)and they are about a useful as a broken front bulkhead.I have done a durability test that i know would break a front bulkhead with my old brace.With Jeps brace I came out clean.I have had issues with the rear arm mount breaking to and I feel the one he came up with was by far the best design beings how the rear part of the arm mount is so thick.(To proove a point on that I had done a reverse crash hitting the left rear wheel being silly and the stock arm mount didnt break {or any other rear suspension pieces}but my "old" chassis snapped in half clean across in front of the rear plate mounting screws all while it was in my nice and toasty house)so you only need the brace on the front part.His bumper I feel will help the front alot more as well minus the added weight but either way Im getting one.

Q - I was actually thinkin about it and I'm going to put a 2 liter pop bottle wedged (and screwed) in between the front brace and the shock tower, then thread it through to the other side(under the top), then I'll run the antenna around the remainder. The reason I think this will be good is the height of the antenna will be at it's max, and the pop bottle will kinda coil the wire out of the way to change the batteries. Did you understand the description?:confused:

As for Jep's braces I just started the formalities of the purchase, since I have broken three hinge pin braces in the last 4 batt. packs. I have bulkheads coming out my....

yes i think i understand your description.. the 2liter bottle idea sounds like a great alternative and could still free up the top of the brace for the reciever.

post or send me some pics when you get it set up.. i'll be interested to see how you do it.



I forgot to mention Jeps braces after your first post. tho i havent had mine on very long it only took one bulkhead busted for me to invest in one. went thru 4 packs at the race track after i installed jeps brace and left unscathed.. for the money its a great investment.. should be a staple investment for any Evader Driver.

Yeah I just went into the basement to try it and I thought the bottle was too curvy (the curve going front to back of the truck)so I tried to iron it straight (use a towel or piece of paper between the iron and the plastic) and the bottle got rock hard with boils all over it:mad: . Now I got to drink 2 more liters of root beer before I try again.

Although if I put the curve the other way it should still flex... I dunno. But I'm pretty sure I won't try the iron again! Anybody want some pop?

:lol:

Got some ice cream too?

Q - I did it. I really have to go #1 though.:( Jokes, I used a 4 liter milk jug, it seems to have a more desirable flex anyways. So here's the procedure...
1. Drink your milk
2. draw a trapezoid with the height being roughly 13 cm (you can adjust this at your will) width at top edge roughly 10 cm width at bottom edge 5 cm (the bottom edge will be screwed into the front brace location)
3. remember what an uniflated balloon looks like. Make a similar "neck" at the small end with dimentions of roughly 5 cm high and 5.5 cm wide at top (of neck)
4. Knock some holes in it to mount (use a screw by hand it's easy going)
5. put more holes in it to thread the antenna (and thread it)
6. enjoy
note: if the "neck" is made out of the curve of the carton, use the curve in the opposite direction of the curve you want, this way the antenna will tuck up into the windshield region of the truck so it will be mounted very high

Sorry I don't have pictures I haven't gone digital yet. Does anybody know if the servo will cause inteference to the receiver? I want to mount the receiver on the servo brace, directly under this antenna contraption.

I have question for y'all. I recently replaced the front brace with the newer, beefier one (I had an older version of it before). After putting it together, there is a strange amount of binding in the steering system. I used my dremel to grind away areas it might bind, and I check the servo;it's fine. However, the binding still remains. What should I look at?

Originally posted by JB_The_Evader
I have question for y'all. I recently replaced the front brace with the newer, beefier one (I had an older version of it before). After putting it together, there is a strange amount of binding in the steering system. I used my dremel to grind away areas it might bind, and I check the servo;it's fine. However, the binding still remains. What should I look at?

If it was replaced because of breakage then I would take off the ball cups that go to the spindles and then give the steering a twist.If it binds then it will be in your bellcrank and not a spindle binding.Next I would check the all ball cups in the front of the truck for binding they could have dirt in them and this can lead to binding thats what the foam donuts are there for.
Then check the pins for the bellcrank and clean everything so you know it isnt dirt (which Im sure you did) in the bellcrank.And while you have it apart make sure your servo horn isnt stripped....
Dont forget to check the turnbuckles in front they can lead to steering bind as well..


Do this in any order and you "should" find your problem.:wave:

Righton..

sounds like a good setup. good idea on the milk carton too, i hadnt thought of that.

so now your task is to get some pictures..

Q:D

Hi Everyone, there was a question in this thread a while back about the weights on the Jep-R/C parts. Here they are:

Rear Pin Brace - 0.074 oz

Bumper - 0.52 oz

Front Bulkhead Brace Set, Front piece - 0.042 oz
Front Bulkhead Brace Set, Rear piece - 0.058 oz

Jep-R/C Products (http://www.geocities.com/jep_rc/products.html)

To all you seasoned veterans of the Evader!!
I found this website Here (http://andrew.nailed.org/cgi-bin/rcparts.pl ) maybe on this forum or another. I would love to add info to his database but alas I am a rookie. This looks to be the best idea ever!! If you have any additions please do. Thanks for your time and endless devotion to the Evader.

hey orbitron, where do i reconize that name?? i think i've ridden it before :D if you give me your email we can discuss this privately. it is the 2nd "generation" with anodized slipper, chassis ribs, etc. pneboyrulez@hotmail.com

got your braces today. bumper and bulk head brace on like a snap.
was working on the rear brace, when i was needed to help finish cup cakes for my daughters play. hopping to get some run time in the morning.:dude:

bumper looks sweet.;)

Originally posted by ronbeck
got your braces today. bumper and bulk head brace on like a snap.
was working on the rear brace, when i was needed to help finish cup cakes for my daughters play. hopping to get some run time in the morning.:dude:

bumper looks sweet.;)

I got mine too,Aint they sweet!Any of you's who havent ordered yet you better hurry,Or else youll be buying more plastic................:wave:

What a nice fit.