Originally posted by ronbeck
what watt soldering iron would you guys(abd gals) suggest for doing deans plugs on batteries and esc's?? thanks.
peter:confused:

A 40 watt iron is sufficiant for the 12 and 14 guage wiring used for batteries, motors etc.. The trick is to make sure the tip is on tight and is clean and also give the iron time to warm up.

Tin the surfaces to be soldered together. That is apply solder to the plug and wire end before you try to solder them together. Clean both sufaces. Oils dirt and or insulation will keep you from making a good connection. Make sure the solder spreads on the surface or sinks into the wire and does not just sit on it. This indicates a good tin.

When using 12 or 14 guage wire on Deans ultra plugs I like to heat the wire not the plug when making the connection. I use a third hand to hold the plug. connect the male and female together. This acts as a heat sync and keeps the plugs in alignment incase they get too hot and softens the plastic.

Let the iron recover its heat between joins. It just transferred a lot of heat to the joint and needs to heat back up. Don't rush it.

For making battery packs I use an $8 60 watt iron. The cheap irons can't be left on very long so I just use it quickly and turn it off. For racing (hard wiring packs) I use a 40 watt Weller soldering station. After two years I'm still using the same tip. :cool:

I am proud to be known for being the first to get rid of the */**/* stock slipper and use the assoc style slipper pads..
I used the back of the lightened Kyosho slipper plate from robinson.(it was in a 50cent bin at my local hobby shop.And the front part of the Assoc. slipper) and a assoc slipper pad.And a extra set of bushings for the stock evader slipper.All in all,It cost me 6 bucks!!!:eek: :eek:
I cant even begin to tell you how awesome this works.Man I cant wait til Saturday.

(Im working on getting a pic up soon..)

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid44/pdcf2f6f3255d74ab98af8239c3dc5e5a/fcdb00f3.jpg

For those who have gotten the "new" slipper,Man dont ya wish ya waited??:wave: :thumbsup:

[QUOTE]Originally posted by hydro_gin



[B]Cjtamu, JB, and Ronbeck



I decided to retighten the diff (using a screwdriver blade and allen wrench) to see if I could tell when the diff spring was fully compressed (per Jep's suggestion). While tightening and loosening the diff, I noticed there's a thrust bearing near the head end of the diff adjustment bolt - and guess what? The washer that forms the outboard side of the thrust bearing was cracked cleanly into two "C"-shaped pieces!







hydro_gin-



In my opinion you should never use anything that adds leverage to the left drive hub. Over tightening the thrust bolt will crack the thrust washers. If the hub and your hand are free of diff lube you will have no problem compressing the spring fully and will not risk damage.







Remember to install a fresh "T-nut".

Hi All,

(2G - I'm jealous, I want the new slipper)

Here are some pics of my son's Evader. I recently put on the new body, aluminum bumper, RPM Clawz rims, and Road Hawg tires. Ready for bashing when it warms up here...

Jeps Evader Picture 1 (http://sio.midco.net/jbriden/photos/Jeps_Evader_3.jpg)

Jeps Evader Picture 2 (http://sio.midco.net/jbriden/photos/Jep_Evader_1.jpg)

Jeps Evader Picture 3 (http://sio.midco.net/jbriden/photos/Jeps_Evader_2.jpg)

(I picked up the Ocean Minded and Waveline Surf stickers when we were on vacation in California. They gave me the inspiration for the body theme.)

Jep
Jep-R/C Products

Jep very nice truck!:thumbsup: :thumbsup:
You can take a stock Assoc. slipper and just bore the center hole on the back piece to the Evaders and your in buisness.You'll just need keep the stock evader bushings that go on the slipper.I really hope if you change your slipper you go to the Assoc. slipper.
The pads wear like iron compared to the Duratrax piece of-er plastic.
Plus it has a finer tuning then the Duratrax as well.


Is that the proposed bumper youll be coming out with?It looks good
Im still waiting in anticipation for the rear brace when it becomes ready as well....I can say enough how nice your front brace is,My alum Losi frnt brace is in my pit box:D

2G - yup, that is the prototype of the bumper. The final one has a slightly shallower angle on the nose piece so it deflects better on a nose-down landing. Otherwise it is the same.

Thanks for the tip on the AE slipper. I will put one on next week.

I have some new photo links on the products page, click here...
Jep-R/C Products (http://www.geocities.com/jep_rc/products.html)

Jep

anyone know what pitch the gears in the tranny are? i'm thinking if i slap two 29 tooth pinions together and bored out the center then glued them together, i'd have an aluminum idler. any thoughts?

|
|
V
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEX27&P=7

PNE someone has done that already.....I dont think that solved it either....

JEP_RC I am down right glad to see your rear pin brace.It is exactly how I hoped you would make it.(overall it is the "smartest" design due to the low cost to produce)
What pins did ya end up with the stockers I presume?
Oh yeah PLZ! show me a pic of your slipper when you get it done :thumbsup:

2G -

The stock pins work! If you push them all the way in and get the brace as far forward as you can, you can *just* get the e-clips back on. If you file the end of the stock pins a bit (to get the clip groove closer to the end so it pushes through the brace farther), then getting the e-clips back on is much easier - but they will fit either way.

Jep

Originally posted by jep_rc
2G -

The stock pins work! If you push them all the way in and get the brace as far forward as you can, you can *just* get the e-clips back on. If you file the end of the stock pins a bit (to get the clip groove closer to the end so it pushes through the brace farther), then getting the e-clips back on is much easier - but they will fit either way.

Jep
Sweet I have a brand new set of pins that will be waiting for your brace and they wont go in there til I get the new brace.:thumbsup: :wave:

Originally posted by jep_rc
Hi All,

(I picked up the Ocean Minded and Waveline Surf stickers when we were on vacation in California. They gave me the inspiration for the body theme.)

Jep
Jep-R/C Products

And you didn't even stop by for coffee:lol:

i have to admit, that is a pretty nice looking body, good job! im jealous of your son :thumbsup:

are you sure you really wanna taste bills coffee...just jokin! :p

Bill - I seriously considered making a Catalina run, but just couldn't work it into the itinerary. We spent most of the trip in Ventura and Santa Barbara visiting family and old friends, then a quick trip down to LegoLand (my son and I are also Lego nuts).

P.N.E. - Thanks.

Jep

Jep,

Glad the thought crossed your mind. Hope you had a great time in So. Cal. , Lego's new park is fun.

Always welcome, call first and p.n.e. you might be right about the coffee;)

Bill

Jep, Very nice looking body. looks like a pro paint job.

the front brace looks great too. you mentioned that you were thinking about one that was more of a touring car style. is that still something your going to look at? thats what i did on mind and it protects the A'arms well without inhibiting their travel. let me know what you come up with.

Q

Q2k2 -

My main concern is weight. I can only do machine stamped and bent aluminum pieces (no CNC machining, and no plastic). Right now I am thinking more along the lines of a lightweight adapter plate that would easily allow one of the wide RPM (or similar) bumpers for the T3 or XXXT to be mounted on the Evader.

Jep

I see..

i'll snap some shots of mine if i get a chance. its not the prettiest setup but i think it will work well once i get a new bulkhead. i have your brace on the workbench ready to install as soon as the bulkhead comes in.

Q:thumbsup:

Just a follow up to my previous post about the clicking noise coming from my gearbox ... after replacing the thrust bearing's cracked washer, the clicking in the diff went away. The root problem was probably either overtightening of the diff on my part, or perhaps an unseated thrust bearing ball.

Kitty - Thanks for the kind welcome. I didn't see your post until after I fixed my problem, but I liked your ideas.

Olin - Yep, rookie maneuver. Still climbing that learning curve.


HG

I've got some questions about making RPM front wheels fit.

My understanding is that a 3/16 x 3/8 bearing fits into a recessed area on each side of the wheel, and between the bearings, a hollow cylindrical bearing spacer is placed.

I've also read that some of the RPM's may require you to shave off some of the inside rim to clear the front knuckle arms, or vice-versa. The alternative apparently is to use Losi bearings plus bearing spacers because they move the inside of the wheel farther away from the knuckles. My questions ...

- Are the Losi bearings wider than other's, or is it really the
bearing spacer that adds the addt'l width?

- Does using the Losi spacer cause the inside bearing to sit farther
away from the wheel? That's the only way I can imagine the knuckle
clears the rim.

- Would someone please confirm that these are the correct Losi part
numbers (I pulled them from NXT & XXXT exploded diagrams):

A-9941 : bearing spacer/wheel washer set
A-6903 : 3/16 x 3/8 bearings

- If the spacer is the key part, its kinda pricey at $10 each!
Would it be possible to go to a hardware store and buy some metal
tubing and cut to width with a hacksaw? Any suggestions on what
kind/size of tubing to use and final width for the spacer?
Is this another future Jep-RC product? ;)

Thanks and happy new year!

HG

Happy New Year HD,

Glad to read that the transmission problem worked out.

Sorry I can't be of any help to you with the RPM rims. Just wanted to say hang in there the threads have been slow over the holidays I sure someone will make a suggestion or two soon.

Concerning the spacer mod. My gut reaction is to spend the $10, of course thats easy for me to say right, but everytime I try to make mods on my own I end up spending much more time on them and the end results often fall short of the "real parts" performance. Also the tolerances are very tight and they would be hard to hand make correctly, got to get the spacer just to rest on the inside races. Just some thoughts.

Later
Bill

i use the dtx front wheels spacers and bearings. i even have a set of street wheels on losi rims running the dtx replacement bearings without the spacer. no problehms. but if you go with a different spacer i would buy insted of make. would be woried about burrs and the seals on the bearings. hope this helps. :hat: happy new year.

peter:dude:

I took my evader to socal rc raceway yesterday and monday. On monday, I literally snapped an idler gear in half. Yesterday on my first battery i cracked another one. I replaced it with a spare I brought, and later, on my last battery of the day, I didn't turn in enough on one section of the track that had a small elevation change, went into the next lane, and smacked into the pipe. The damage: front bulkhead, front shock tower, front brace, missing stearing bushing, and a missing e clip. I'll be going tonight to get the parts.
Other than the the broken parts, the evader ran extremely well, and, once my skill improves, should be competitive with the losis and associateds at the track.

parts. if your truck is older(like mine) you can usally tell between the old cast parts and the newer ones. slight color difference and rufer texture on new plastic. :)

Man, what's with all the tranny problems? Are y'all coming off the jumps while you're on the gas hard, or are they breaking just at any time? I still haven't had any problems, but I run my slipper a little loose due to our track conditions. JB, how are you adjusting the diff and slipper?

hey guys, i think im gonna sell the evader to start saving for a 1/8 nitro. how much do u think a rolling chassis should be priced for?

Jep, that truck looks great.

i think there is still alot of old cast parts floating into lhs.
local hobbytown use started carring the evaders. so there is alot more parts moving. tryong to get me lhs to send back all old mold parts. :dude:

hydro-gin - glad to hear you found your clicking noise! When I replied, it didn't even dawn on me to think about that darned washer. I've broken one of those myself, as have others around here. I am certain that mine broke due to overtightening. As a matter of fact, I brought that issue up with my contact at Duratrax. I mentioned that after looking at the broken washer, it looked as though it was made from pot metal instead of a decent quality steel or alloy. For those who don't know what pot metal is, the name pretty much says it all. It's common for some parts manufacturers to take whatever scrap metal they have lying around and melt it all together.

Jon - hitting that rock one time is understandable, but four or five times since? Is it hidden or are you doing it on purpose? ;)

cj - got it now heh I thought someone meant motor heat sinks, not the ESC sinks. I have a Rooster so I know what those look like ;) What shocks are you running on the rear of your truck? Those don't look like the stock shocks. I don't know if it's just the picture or not, but your left rear tire looks like it has a bit of positive camber on it (probably the picture). Oh yeah, before I forgot, a while back I asked what ESC and motor you are using when you toy around with up to ten cells, but didn't see a response. I'm very interested!

2nd - just because he (and I) are in Texas doesn't mean it doesn't get cold here. It was really nice today but another cold front is on the way. New Year's Eve day also was nice, but once the sun set, the temps dropped quite a bit. By the time we finished playing with pyrotechnics (about 10pm) there was frost on all the car windows and any sitting water (plant drainage bottoms, dog water bowl, etc) was frozen.

I don't wish I had waited on the new slipper. I have one that works superbly and didn't require any modifications. I love the new set from Duratrax! Setting the slipper is so much nicer than it was with the older one that used the plastic discs.

RB - I'm with cj on the soldering iron. I bought a 60 watter recently. The last set of Dean's was done with Baby Bro's 80w iron and I didn't notice that the solder had flowed through the connector and underneath the "springy" plug on the other side. Oops. I did some finagling and managed to fix it, though. I haven't had a problem with melting the plastic, but definitely watch out for solder flow. Also, it's a good idea to scuff up the poles on the Dean's where you'll be soldering. It helps the solder to adhere. For what it's worth, I don't use any additional flux. It can get pretty messy and if the flux doesn't burn off, you can get a cold solder joint (major resistance added and it looks like crap). For what it's worth, I use Dean's silver solder.

I'm glad you mentioned about telling older parts from newer ones. I noticed that a few weeks ago while doing an inventory of all the spare/extra parts I have for my Evader. The newer ones do seem to have more of a texture to them and the older ones have a certain "sheen" to them.

Jeff - what do you clean/shine your tires with when you take pictures of your vehicles? I like how you present everything for pictures and how your vehicles are always nice and clean! I like the design of the new parts you're working on. Any chance that you'll be doing similar parts for the Pede? I was looking at the rear pins on my Pede while I was building it and thought "hmmm... A Jep brace back here would do very well." When I say pins, I mean I bought good ol' hinge pins so when I built the kit I wouldn't use any of the stock screw pins.

To All - hope everyone had a great holiday season! I haven't been around much lately due to yet another nasty allergy cold. Ugh. No worries, it has given me some time to finish building my new Pede (still waiting on a few aftermarket parts). Take care, all!

Kitty,
I read in the Hop-Up thread for the st/bx that you feel that it is hard to take off the gear cover?????You might want to look into inserting a longer screw from the back of the motor plate and then put the cover on and hold it in place with fuel tubing from a nitro..It is the best thing that ANYONE can do for a gear cover.The tubing wont come off as long as you have a long enough screw.In this pic you can clearly see the screw I use to fasten the gear cover to the chassis.(I took the top one out for taking the pic)http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid44/pdcf2f6f3255d74ab98af8239c3dc5e5a/fcdb00f3.jpg

And that screw on the bottom as long as it looks doesnt get in the way of suspension travel...

Kitty- Those are Losi shocks both front and rear. No positive camber, must be the photo. I remember the post about someone running 10 cells, but it wasn't me. I thought the Super Rooster would handle up to 10 cells, but I'm not sure. And I'm with you, I really like the new slipper assembly.

What type of material would you guys say the new pad is made of?I recall someone saying it was blue.
Have you seen the lightened slipper for the Evader?
It uses the white plastic pad.http://www2.gpmd.com/image/d/dtxc9312.jpg

I tried something yeaterday and it works great. I ran my antenna wire around a plastic card and zip tied the card to the front shock tower. This means I no longer have the antenna and tube sticking out of the truck. I've driven it once and found no loss in the range of control.

If anyone is intrested and the above discription does not get you started let me know and I will discribe it further.

Bill

hi every one. i hope every body has had a great holiday season! bill, can you give some more detail on that? sounds cool! i hope you guys can help me on a problem i have with my new evader. the instructions say to run 2 to 3 packs for diff break in. i ran 2 and a half and then tried to adjust the diff. when i first tried to tighten it, it already felt "just snug". i tightened it a little and then backed it off 1/8 of a turn.when i had reassembled it, it made a horrible sqealing sound. i immediatly stopped and have been afraid to drive it since. do you think i tried to adjust it before break in was complete? and if so, does anybody know the factory setting for the diff? thanks

Originally posted by cjtamu
Man, what's with all the tranny problems? Are y'all coming off the jumps while you're on the gas hard, or are they breaking just at any time? I still haven't had any problems, but I run my slipper a little loose due to our track conditions. JB, how are you adjusting the diff and slipper?

No, I think my slipper was too tight. I hadn't broken any idlers for the 10 months i've had the truck until last monday.

Originally posted by jacob
hi every one. i hope every body has had a great holiday season! bill, can you give some more detail on that? sounds cool! i hope you guys can help me on a problem i have with my new evader. the instructions say to run 2 to 3 packs for diff break in. i ran 2 and a half and then tried to adjust the diff. when i first tried to tighten it, it already felt "just snug". i tightened it a little and then backed it off 1/8 of a turn.when i had reassembled it, it made a horrible sqealing sound. i immediatly stopped and have been afraid to drive it since. do you think i tried to adjust it before break in was complete? and if so, does anybody know the factory setting for the diff? thanks

The squealing (which I am all too familiar with) is a result of the diff slipping. Tighten it up and see if it helps. If it doesn't, loosen the slipper a bit.
Was the squealing high pitched or was it more of a grinding sound? If it was high pitched, it was the slipper clutch slipping (good if it doesn't slip too much), and if it was grinding, it was the diff (bad).

i ran mines on 10 cells and it worked great. it really is a quality esc, i've even heard of people running 12 but im not gonna risk it.

jacob

I used a medical insurance card blank, about the size of a credit card but a thinner plastic. Then I punched small holes down the sides of the card about 1/2" in. Punch about 5 to 8 holes. Then punch two holes on the top where you plan on attaching it to the front shock posts using the zip ties.

When ready to mount thread your antenna wire through the bottom hole take it across the back and out the bottom hole on the other side then bring it across the front and into the next hole, etc, until the wire is threaded up the card like a shoe lace. When you reach the end of the antenna tuck the end into a hole or back under the wire to lock it in place.

With the card threaded, place it up against the shock post, just above the servo. Lean it in so the top of the card is at the height you want and install the zip ties to the top cross member. Fair lead the wire through the card to clean it up and make it a little tighter.

Thats it, your good to go.

that's the old style pad on the old light slipper setup. i have it. it works like the stock(old style) slipper but a little less squeel.
and looks a little pretty next to the spur gear.:D
hope this gives you the info you wanted.
dtx support said the new pads will work with this.
but i am not sure since they don't recomend to use the new pads with the stock sliper plates.

the light slipper has been around since june when i picked up my truck.but i use my hobby knief to score the slipper disks. helped a little with adjustments.

cj - oops. That was Jon who runs 10 cells. My goof!

Jon - which ESC are you using? I'm guessing the Super Rooster. I'm seriously considering that one for the new Pede. Unless I swap radio gear from the Evader, I won't be running my new Pede until a hobby shop (online or LHS) gets the new Hitec Agressor radio in. That's the one I've chosen, but it's late hitting the shelves. I called Hitec and they said the new Aggressor should be in stock "real soon." Great. Real soon ain't soon enough for me heh

Jacob - 1/8th of a turn doesn't really mean squat, because "just snug" is dependent on your own interpretation. The way I ended up doing mine was to adjust, test, and repeat until I felt it was set right.

RB - The information I have on the slipper plates and pads is, like you mentioned, not to use the new pads on the original plates. The new pads will do okay with the colour-anodised plates, but will wear them out eventually. The new pads have an interesting texture to them and dang do they kick in well with the new hard-anodised plate set!

I went racing yesterday and spoke to alot of Evader owners.Here in Michigan it didnt get above 30 degree's and whats funny is I only know of one guys who had a ton of issues with his Evader.It is a new kit but I say it was just bad luck on his part.This is good it is meaning the new parts are definatly working :thumbsup:

Funnny thing is I had to things break 1 ball cup (I have the blue DTX ball cups and Im going to switch to RPM ball cups soon) And I broke the Blue servo arm.I remember seeing aluminum ones at the LHS and I might get one of those just to put it on and forget it.I am shocked though it was the first time I ever broke one?It was a light collision with another Evader and he didnt break.

I had motor troubles cause I never had this motor rebuilt since I got it with my T3 (guy I got the T3 from was a new racer and didnt know much) I never used it before this raceday.I got it trued and new brushes and it worked great.Sad part is I found that the motor had issues in the 3rd Qual. 1st qual I had the ball cup break about 4 laps in,2nd Qual. I had the servo arm break on the first lap. then the 3rd qual I noticed no power from the motor and had the tracks best motor guy hook it up.
I qualed LAST :lol: 10th in the E main.It wasnt no biggie though I still won it but I didnt adjust my servo link to the bellcrank and I had way to much to the right throw but not enough throw to the left.I had set the trim all the way to the left to get my wheels straight but I still had to race with the wheel on my transmiter turned to the left to keep it straight :eek:

Im loving this truck it was so smooth and quiet you couldnt hear it land nor could you hear it slipping the slipper or could you hear the motor running.God it felt so good I just wish I didnt have those dang bugs messing me up.I know next time it will be way better..
I got about 30 bucks worth of XXT parts (new) from a guy at the track for 10 bucks.Im going to do the front suspension arms hub carriers/spindles axles and rear shock tower.Ive been thinking of putting a XXT tranny in the Evader too.

Hi all,

What do you all use for securing your receiver to the chassis? The sticky sponge that came stock is no longer effective after it pulled the label off my receiver.

I noticed RPM makes a receiver box but I think its too wide to fit in the Evader.

Also, my pinion gear's set screw worked loose. Is it a good idea to use threadlocker on it? (I have blue Locktite #242 that I use on my motorcycle).

Thanks :)

HG

i use goop or sjoe goo. i dremeled a little off the outside of the battery tray and the inside of the outside edge. or you can glue it at a angle. :)
thinking about putting it on the servo brace??...

I use Velcro.I have never had a issue with anything coming undone.I use the 3M brand with the area cleaned with alcohol...

for the reciever I made a little L shaped piece out of .030 lexan. I made it as wide as the spot where the reciever goes, with the part bent down as tall as the outside of the chassis. I shoe goed it in place so the reciever sits at an angle on top of the outside frame. Sorry if this doesn't make sense.

kitty- yes im using the super rooster. i've just sold it along with the 9 turn for 100 bux. I also have a deal pending on my evader roller for 95 bux, i included the motor and a 1800 pack. does that sound like a reasonable price? in case you haven't been updated, im selling my evader and getting an ofna 1/8 buggy i wanted :), the super rooster is an awesome esc, it always ran strong and never gave me a problem, you won't be disapointed with one. plus the resale value hasn't changed on them in years..

when using loctite, use only as much as needed, or else you'll have a really hard time getting the screw off.

Great ideas everybody! Now I know what shoe goo is used for - it sounds like the duct tape of RC :)

I was cruising around at Tower Hobbies and found out servo tape can be used too.

Originally posted by hydro_gin
Great ideas everybody! Now I know what shoe goo is used for - it sounds like the duct tape of RC :)

I was cruising around at Tower Hobbies and found out servo tape can be used too.
Servo tape is good but a pain in the- to get off.Velco is so much easier.And it is just as strong it wont go flinging off on ya.

2G,

How did you attach the velcro to the chassis and receiver - shoe goo?

The other ideas were good, but I like yours because you can easily remove the rcvr if you have to. Good feedback on the servo tape, think I'll pass on that. I'll probably rubberband a piece of balloon over the top of the rcvr to keep dirt from getting into the connector recepticles.

HG