mmonti -

The Evader uses a mix of the following nut sizes. I suggest you go to www.duratrax.com and download a copy of the Evader Exploded View PDF file. This gives a list of every part on the truck and an exploded view drawing referencign the location of everything

3/16" Nylon Lock Nut
4-40 Nylon Lock Nut
3mm Nylon Lock Nut

Ah heck, here is the link: Evader Exploded View (http://www.duratrax.com/pdf/dtxc0020-exploded.pdf)

Jep
Jep-R/C Products (http://www.geocities.com/jep_rc)

mmonti- The Evader uses a mix of metric and SAE sizes. For the hex (or ALlen) heads, I think the one for the pinion gear is 1.5, then I think the others are 2 and 2.5 mm, but I'm not at home so can't verify. And no, sizes aren't standard, because I had to buy a 3/16" hex driver when I went to Robinson pinions. I'd do as Jep suggests and go from there.

Thanks to both of you guys,

just trying to put together a small tool kit for this thing, picking thru my wiha sets finding the right tools, looks like ill have to buy a few new ones, some nut drivers and some new hex bits.

Ive got the exploded parts manual, pdf and printed, i dont see where it says sizes, prolly starin right at me tho.

Thanks again. :thumbsup:

what radios are you guys running, I have the stock and it doesn't perform well enough for me. I already got a good servo (hitec 645mg) just need to get a descent tx and rx.


also after putting in the servo I notced it was louder than the stock one, is that normal?

We just picked up a airtronics mx3, I like it better than our jr xr2. We payed $110. Tower has them for $105. Comes with a nice small reciever, and it's fm.

I'm running a JR XR2. I'm pretty happy with it, it's a whole lot better than the old Futaba Magnum Jr I was running. I picked up the JR on eBay for $35... can't beat that:D

running a jr xr2, but today will be putting my jr xr3i in.
it's fm 4 model memory, came with a high torque metal gear servo($45-60 depending on were you pick it up).:D
in the tamiya rtr tl01 kits they use the same tx as the evader inus the charger jack.

some pics of my chains and paddles

http://pic5.picturetrail.com/VOL99/807146/1432967/16736302.jpg
a paddle

http://pic5.picturetrail.com/VOL99/807146/1432967/16736311.jpg
chains

http://pic5.picturetrail.com/VOL99/807146/1432967/16736316.jpg
more

http://pic5.picturetrail.com/VOL99/807146/1432967/16736320.jpg one more

easy to make and cheap :D

btw, Q, i love that artwork you do, looks incredible!

Jester - what type of problem(s) are you having with the stock transmitter and receiver?

Originally posted by kitty
Jester - what type of problem(s) are you having with the stock transmitter and receiver?

It just doesn't seem resoposive enough, the trim knobs don't work very well, trigger is to light, steering wheel gets slippery when its colder although I can fix that with rubber tool coating, its AM. I could go on and on. I don't want to get more freq's for it cause I feel like I'm polishing a turd. i might use it in dire need, but I generaly don't like it.

Still wondering about that humming being normal coming from the servo.

Nother question. On 3 channel radios I understand what the fst 2 channels are used for, what is the 3rd one for?

BTW, I just finished my tire chains, I'll have a pic up soon, they work great.

jester- i bet ur fingers are sore from working that chain ;) a third channel would be used in something like an emaxx, to switch gears. the steering wheel does get slippery specially when i have gloves on :( i wrapped a fat rubber band around it.

kitty-ygm :wave:

adjust your end point for steering. sounds like the servo is trying to turn farther then it's needed to. it's trying as hard as it can to keep going. could burn it out or strip gears. more then two channel radios are for more moving parts like e-maxx's two speed manuel tranny, need third channel. some use extra servos to run lights horns...ect...hope this helps. :devil:

adjusted the endpt when I put it in..

It baffles me, I turn the tx on, then the rx, and everything is normal. Then I turn the wheel and let it go back to center and it might not go all the way, and the servo keeps humming, like its recieving a signal.This happens when I turn both ways. Its not the trim, cause the tires stay canted in the last direciton I steered towards.

Keep in mind that this is all on a stand and there is no stress on the servo to keep it from self centering.

I think that someone needs to make an alum steering arm, I just don't trust those plastic splines on the stock one. Esp with 150 oz of tq pushing it.

Fingers are a little tired, not sore (used 2 pair of small needle nose pliers to bend), My fingers are just too big to work with that stuff for very long.

Originally posted by Jester_yj
Nother question. On 3 channel radios I understand what the fst 2 channels are used for, what is the 3rd one for?
Whatever you want. On the T-Maxx and the like it's for the reverse gear. On boats they use it for the needle valve.

Radios.. i'm using a Futaba 2PH & 2PHKA. i thought the stock futaba radio that came with the evader worked 'well' but i have a lot more control with these.

pne.. did i sent you a link to my website? thanks for the plug on my artwork.. i didnt remember posting a link so i was surprised to read that.. ( i did just get back from vacation tho so everything before the weekend is a little fuzzy.) www.stipart.com if anyone wants to check it out.. no drawings of rc cars tho.. not yet anyways..

should get my Jep R/C front brace today in the mail.. also need to pick up new front A arms.. anyone do anything special when replacing them? alum or graphite? if its not a big differenece i'll probably just go with another set of stock ones.. with the new brace i'm sure i wont have to replace them again..

actually i was looking for sites that people were using to host their pics and checked the url for your evader pics, pretty surprised myself to see that art, thats impressive.

the cold is starting to have its effects on the duratrax parts, bashed this morning around freezin temps and the part on the rear tranny brace that attaches to the tie rod snapped. this was from turning too sharply :cry:

aahh.. good investigating pne..

sorry to hear about parts snapping. my breakage was from letting a novice drive my truck.. i'm surprised it didnt snap the chassis in two.. luckily i got one of the newer ones..

things are frozen here in the mornings but foggy mostly during the day. if the streets are dry its ok to drive..

Morning Q,

I checked your website and enjoyed seeing your work, very nice. Do you plan on doing commission work for us RCers?

The A arms are Stress Tech parts and should be replaced by Duratrax for free.

The only thing I've read about upgrades is that there is not much improvement over the stock part. I have also read that putting a small amount of CA on the edges of the plastic parts helps prevent chipping and splitting.

Later
B

there is someone on fleaybay selling a set of aluminum annodised parts for the evader, has anyone seen these parts at the LHS or anywhere else?

Id post a link to the auction for ya but im sure you can easily find it searching for "evader", unless a link is ok and ill post it.


ill attach a pic of the parts

Jon - sorry for not replying to your email yet. I've been down and all but out for the past week and a half (allergy cold, big time). I'll respond soon, probably with more information than you want heh

mmonti - I saw those on fleaBay (love your version of it!). The description says that he machined them himself. If he did, the job looks pretty good. I'm not too sure about that or the anodising job, though, as his pics are pretty dodgy. For now I'm sticking with the stock arms. The way I see it, the stock arms are way cheaper to replace (if out of warranty or for spares) than aluminum would be. One really hard smack on aluminum arms and they're bent for good (or worse yet, broken). Plus, you have to keep in mind that the plastic parts tend to bend in unison to cushion blows. If you start putting hardened materials into the mix and the most likely scenario will be that other parts will start breaking easier.

Aluminum stuff like bulkheads are okay, because those are the parts that usually get the final shock of a crash. If I were to use an aluminum front bulkhead (which is doubtful due to the cost), I would also use titanium camber links, tie rods and king pins. I can't believe how much they want on Tower just for the titanium kingpins, though :(

I agree with Kitty about the aluminum parts, I also wanted some titanium parts, but cost too much. I'm trying to make my own, but I can't find a left hand die for the rods.

Whoowee- My new EVBX just came in today, looks good.

:( sorry to hear your not well.
was like that last week.
hope you feel well.
and the boards not hte same without your input.
peter:)

:rolleyes: cant top a reply like that.. but get better soon. i'm catchin a cold too and i feel your pain :cry:

thanks for your .02 cents everyone.. i saw some alumn rear hub carriers at the lhs last night and was AMAZED at how heavy they were. i think i'll stick with stresstech for now. they were out of the fron A arms tho so it'll be next week before i get some.. no prob tho i have plenty of work to do on the Stampede to keep me busy.

Kitty, get well and get your butt back on here.. no excusses after this week.. ;)

hey pne.. any pics of the lights?

Bill, thanks for check'n out my site. what sort of work are you looking for? i havent done any RC's yet but i'm not against it.. let me know if your looking for some artwork for the wife for xmas..

if you look on the portraits page of my site theres a closeup of a baby's face.. that would be me if anyone wants to know what i look like.. well.. thats me 26 years ago :rolleyes:

hey guver, have you tried your bx out yet? does it perform well? my little brother wants one as his first rc car, so it is going to have to be durable. i read that the evader bx goes 21.1 mph from rc car action.can any one tell stories of stunts they tried with their rc cars, or pictures? thanks

i will go first. the day after i got my stampede i had set up a piece of plywood against the side of the steps leading up the the shed door and was launching of, catching about 3 feet of air. we (me and little brother) found a piece of wood that for some reason was cut out in the shape of a big circle with a hole of about a foot and a half in diameter. i decided to hold the circle in the air and let my bro try to jump through it, big mistake. he flew at the ramp at full speed, launched and smacked right into the side of the circle. the force of the crash sent the poor pede into a spiral of death. when the dust cleared we found the only damage was the left rear shock cap came off and took of most of the threads off the shock body to. next day, aluminum shocks!:D

q2k2, didnt you see the pics i posted already? or do you want some more?
http://www.angelfire.com/ne2/pneboy/evader.html

No - Haven't ran the evbx yet cuz of snow and I was gonna sell it as new. I bought it without radio but I have a new one though. I did weigh it and it is 1320 grams. My evst is 1520 grams.

I'd say your about right for the top speed of 21 mph.

"DOH!!"

actually i did see those pics pne. i must have been so :eek: over the chains and paddles that i forgot about the lights. they do look bright.. i still have only hooked up the prowler on mine.. tho it worked for 1 pack and now i get nuthin. i'm going to try and swap out the regulator to see if thats the problem.

Q

be sure to post a pic when you get them workin!

Peter - awww shucks <blush> hehehe

Jon - finally got your email off. I still feel like crap but it's the high allergy season here. And now the cedar trees are pollenating so not only does a great percentage of people living here have "colds," but when the dew settles overnight, the next day peoples' cars have a nasty yellow dust covering them (cedar pollen). It's pretty icky.

Q - Thanks =) I looked over your site too. I've always liked good stippling work and yours rocks! You mentioned that you're going to take apart your light circuit to see if the regulator is the problem. Does that mean you'll be cracking the little box open? If you do (*nudge nudge*) pretty please take a few pics for me!

kitty that sounds pretty disgusting :( hope the stuffs not sticky too..

Q-a lil story here, i was bored sitting in class today so i got a pen and tried some of that strip art stuff. well i made a big ugly mess and just about wrecked my friends pen. the teacher came over and asked me if i was feeling ok.. :D :o

I was busy uprgading one of my evader st steering servo and realized that the Hobbico CS-65 servo I was installing had jr/hitech style plugs. I had heard you could still use them but had to be careful of the way you hooked them up as there would be no protection against accidently reversing them. However they don't seem to work. What am I to do now?

Thanks Kitty
Thanks pne
i've ruined quite a few pens until i perfected my processes. now they last me at least 2 or 3 portraits before they start to show wear. funny story tho.. :lol:

Kitty, if i look inside the box i'll shoot some photos for you.. i havent had time to even look at it yet. christmas stuff has been taking over my spare time :(

Philp,

Is it possible for you to exchange the CS-65 with one that has the proper plugs? When I bought a Hitec servo, the only servo I've bought in my RC life, the counter guy asked me which plug I wanted.

Wish I could be more help.

Bill

Wow, this thread's slow. Check the "Evader ST Racers Only" thread for this week's damage report. First time I've broken anything. On the plus side, the new slipper and pads are awesome. Don't know how noticeable the difference is when bashing, but on the track it's much more adjustable than the original setup.

Has anyone tried putting on a Associated slipper on their evader?I was tinkering this morning and seen it will work with the center being bored out.I am going to do this soon beings the stock slipper pads are pooh..I cant understand why they wear out in 5 race weeks..With proper cleaning I get a Assoc. slip pad to last all season on my T3.

I broke some more stuff too.CA is my friend.I just cant believe how well it holds the parts, I made a ramp that gets me 3 feet in the air no matter how harsh the roll or landing it hasnt snaped yet?

Upon further post-race inspection, it looks like Duratrax will be providing me with a new front shocktower also. That's shocktower, A-arm and steering bellcrank, but I cracked that pipe pretty hard. CA is my friend as well because it's holding the shock tower and bellcrank together until I can get to the LHS for replacements. Pieces of the A-arm were scattered across the track, so no CA mods for it.

On another note, when I pulled the inner hinge pins for the A-arm and the outers for the hub carriers, I couldn't believe how tight they were. I almost couldn't remove them. I also didn't like how tight the kingpin was through the front hub carrier. I've always thought the Evader suspension felt a little sticky, and it looks like there was so much friction the A-arms couldn't move freely. I bored the holes for the hub carrier ever so slightly (7/64") and it feels much smoother. I replaced the front A-arms with XXT because I haven't gotten the stock ones yet. The hingepin fits through easily, and the suspension reacts much better. Has anyone tried boring the holes in the stock A-arms to reduce the friction? I suspect the rear A-arms are much the same story, and I'm thinking about trying it.

2nd- Do you still have the old style slipper, or did you get the new hard-anodized and the new pads? Mine worked great this weekend, but no idea on life expectancy because it was the 1st race with the new stuff.

The "bore" job was done about a week after I got the truck. I thought the suspension was binding a bit and it was front and rear. I recomend this to anyone running this truck. For an easy check remove your shocks and check the suspension action IE move the arms up and down. They should move freely and not bind. a little common sense tuning. You will be very pleased with the results.

cj good luck finding new parts. Even if Duratrax is sending you new ones spares are worth the $3.00

funny, mines dont bind at all. For you electric experts, does voltage have any effect on the brush springs? i thought the springs didnt carry any current but after running the photon on 12 volts, both springs snaped, one after the other. very puzzling..

New slipper... I think I forgot to tell you guys that my truck has the new slipper assembly in it. It definitely makes a difference even while bashing. The response is so smooth and tight it's not even funny. I expected at least some difference, as I had to change the spring as well (old one was compressed pretty far), but the ol' two-foot slip test is remarkable with the new slipper. It is so much easier to adjust and when it kicks in, you can feel it!

Q - no prob, bud! I've had a ton more work to do with the holiday season here so I fully understand. Just when you get time, it'd be a huge favour to be able to see the "guts" of that kit.

cj - welcome back to the real Evader thread. I can see the need for a separate thread for racers only, but it just seems kinda snobbish to me in a way. No offense meant, hon. Just the way I see it.

About your hinge pins - check to be sure that they are completely straight. I noticed that one of the inner rear pins on mine was awfully tight. When I took it out, I found that it was bent. Well, more like twisted in a way. It was bent in two different places, in two different directions. A little work using a hammer and an ancient metal saw stand and it was good enough to last until I got a new one. One thing I've started doing when putting hinge pins is to put a little bit of bearing oil on the pins. It's recommended to use dry graphite lube, but I don't have any right now and used what I had. It has worked just fine though.

Jon - hehehe I don't know about voltage affecting brush springs, but I bet what happened was that the stock springs on the Photon motor are too weak for all that bouncing around running it at 12v. Higher RPM = more bounce when using weaker springs. Nice to see that you didn't smoke the motor running it at 12v ;)

Kitty- Shame, shame. They're all real Evader forums. None are better than the others, just different. Resist the urge to be put into one specific box. Be a Renaissance driver I say, and combine and master the best of both backyard bashing and racing.

No seriously, I think the idea was just to clean up and shorten a thread to race topics. Lights and paddle tires and chains and beautiful bodies are cool and I love looking at them, but they don't help me get around the track any faster. Nice to get tips from people who're racing, especially if they're running at your track. Certainly all are welcome to attend the forum. I recommend that everyone try their hand at racing because it's a blast. Plus, you meet some great people that really know R/C. I just found out that a guy who's given me a bunch of help the last 2 times is a Losi team driver. That's killer help.

The hinge pins and kingpins are completely straight. The problem is with the size of the holes in the A-arms and hub carriers. Any friction you have to fight, whether it's gears, tranny, bearings, or suspension is bad. The fact that the hub carriers don't move freely means that the servo has to work harder, which decreases runtime, etc. and slows down response. There was a post on one of the EVST forums from someone whose servo continued to hum when they turned the tires one way, but not the other. I had the same thing with mine, and I bet it's because the sevo was fighting the binding hub carriers to get back to center. Suspension friction means that the action won't be consistent, so the same setup may not work the same each time out. You might mention this to your DTX insider. Again, there's a great FAQ about car handling on the Team Orion website.

Bluelight- No problem finding parts, just the LHS that has them is closed on Sundays. I'm kicking myself, because I meant to stop there on the way to the track and pick up some spare parts, and I was running late and of course didn't. The XXT A-arms appear to be a direct fit, so I'm not sweating it.

pne's springs: Higher voltage = more current = more heat. You probably got them hot enough they lost their temper.

yeah i agree with Dan.. i was about to type that too..

just too hot buddy.. cool it why'dontcha'

hm, i thought about that but i could have sworn the motor wasnt hot at all. i only reved it a couple times with the pinion on. the can wasnt hot at all which was pretty good. i'll just refrain from using 10 cells until i get some new springs

All right, I drilled the rear suspension too. Man, what a difference. For the rear A-arms, rear hub carriers, and inner front hingepins I used a 1/4" bit. For the outer front hingepins and hub carrier and for the hub carrier (where the kingpin goes through) I used a 7/64".

The inner rear hinge pins were even harder to pull than the front. One was bent slightly. I sprayed a 100% silicone lube at both ends and let it soak in about 30 secs and was able to pull them out.

pne-- could your comm. need turned?

that's why my springs kept breaking I think. Also they had been overheated.

Hmm I keep bending hinge pins and kingpins also.
I found to clean the holes real good and polish the pins makes a good difference also.(that is when they're not bent)

OK, let's be sure it's clear. My hinge pins were not bent, other than one inner rear that I discovered after I started complaining about the front. The problem is that the holes are drilled just a little too tight. PNE said he didn't have a problem, but I had it with all the hinge and kingpins, so maybe it's isolated or maybe it's something they've addressed already. You don't want slop in your suspension, but it has to move freely. I ran it for a couple of minutes today and it was marvelous.