Kitty,
thanks for the Props on the Legacy (HPI 200mm body). i used HPI body mounts on the rear and with the shocks mounted on the lower holes i was able to use the original body mounts on the front. which was very fortunate because i couldnt figure out how i was going to mount some new posts to mount the front end.

you will LOVE that Jag 17T. trust me. i've put softer compound brushes in mine since i got it which was also an improvement. in another thread it was said that stiffer springs would also help improve performance. so think about those things when your ready to rebuild your motor.:thumbsup:



HOOLLD UP on the ESC talks.. the Super Rooster can only handle 6 cells???? :confused:

Originally posted by P.N.E.
bill-i look for the stuff you mentioned as well as internal resistance, how many cells it can handle, and those nice extras like the smart braking on the rooster and the brake light option.

Hey PNE... explaing the "brake light option" please..

all i know about my rooster is that its unlimited and it has reverse. i dont think any instructions came with it other than the original box. so how to set it up, braking, and brake light options are all new to me. anyones help would be welcomed.. i hope to be able to put it in this weekend.. so i'll be compiling info until then..

thanks
Q

Q- Go to the Novak website and download the instructions from there. I did it for my Fusion, which also has a brake light option. Essentially, you should see two small wires coming off the ESC that are for wiring up optional brake lights.

Downloading now..

thanks CJ!

pretty excited about the brake lights..

Thank you for all the ESC info. I read a review by Hank as well as several threads. Still alot to learn, always.

Just because there new has anyone used the GP 3300 batts with either of the ESC mentioned.

The Duratrax 8T Pro sounds nice, to nice if you know what I mean. Many features I will never use. Is the Novak as dodaded as the 8T?

Originally posted by Bill
Thank you for all the ESC info. I read a review by Hank as well as several threads. Still alot to learn, always.

Just because there new has anyone used the GP 3300 batts with either of the ESC mentioned.

The Duratrax 8T Pro sounds nice, to nice if you know what I mean. Many features I will never use. Is the Novak as dodaded as the 8T? \
BILL it is weird you had asked this question.....I use GP3300 batts and I LOVE EM!!!!!!These are a good match IMHO...
And when it comes to Dodads the novak has just as many as the 8T pro..But the 8T is way cheaper.Do you need reverse Bill?Just askin..

Doodaded? (Is that a word?) More so.

I think they've stopped making the Cyclones, and are comitted to the GT7, which is even more so - it has seven different profiles for different types of racing.

I'm using the GP3300s with early model Cyclones and having no trouble. I've never heard of a controller having trouble with a battery.

Bill is Stranded on an island and building his own track.. i would suspect that he doesnt NEED reverse but he would Want reverse..

that right Bill?

Bill- If you go to "General RC Discussion" and look under "Ask the Group About ESCs", there's some info. You may have seen that thread already. I think the ESCs, like a lot of other things, come down to personal preference. I looked at the 8T Pro, but I got a chance to get an almost new Fusion for $40, so I took it. I think it'll be a long time before I need a motor hotter than 12T, and the on-resistance is the same as the Atom. It also has ony 2 pre-programmed profiles so a dumb Aggie like me doesn't get too confused.

Hehehe, "If you were stranded on a desert island and could have only three ESC features..."

Ha Ha Ha :lol:

do they make an ESC that produces Beer, Cute Girls and Pizza?

:lol: i'll take two! :p
the brake light thing is a seperate kit you can get for about 20 bux. its just two leds that light up whenever you hit the brakes to make your car more realistic. on your rooster you will notice two short and very thin wires that connect to nothing. these are for the brake lights to be soldered onto. in case you were wondering, you can probably use them with the leds you bought. i tried it out and it worked fine, but the wires are way too thin IMO.

dan, i saw your name in another forum dedicated to ddr, if you dont recall what it stands for chances are it was someone else. (if you've seen it or played with it you'd not soon forget):wave: btw, do you have a son that drives a emaxx? i swear i've seen at least 20 dan the man s/n's with slight varitions.

Hey Q, I hear Novak is coming out with one, but I don't know anyone that can afford it!

Y'all wish me luck, it looks like I'm finally going to get to go racing tomorrow. Anybody got any tips on pinion/spur setup? It's an Orion Core stock and the stock Evader tranny, 50' x 100' track, looks like it's hard pack with loose sand on top. Sounds like this is where the big dogs hang out, so I may be in trouble.

pne - No, I only use this nick here and on TechTalk. Other places I go by Lefty Skywalker. I most definitely don't have kids!

cjtamu - be not afraid! If they're like most tracks they'll have a novice class. You'll be suprised by how hard it actually is to keep your car between the pipes at first. :D Start with a 20 pinion and see how it does for heat.

I looked up DDR. All I know about it is that it leads to puns like "pants pants revolution" and "ants ants revolution".

cj... Good luck at the track. Sounds like you have worked hard to get it together.

Dan... You say you don't have kids. I'd say your xxx4 is the newest member of the family:) Talk about something that is dodaded,
4wd:confused:

2nd... More good info, thanks. I'm still looking around for my right answere to the ESC issue. Yes, I would like a reverse.

Q, pne, and Dan - You got the three ESC items right, but all I can find is ESC's that serve domistic beer with the girls and pizza:eek:

See Ya
Bill

I'm putting off the XXX4 until they have an "Edition", or at least until they get it sorted out. My XX4WE is more reliable - which isn't saying much, but it's something. Of course I did break another suspension arm Sunday night.... :rolleyes: But I now have more spare XX4 parts than most hobby stores so it's all good.

Sounds like you got yourself set up for a ebay retirement program.
:thumbsup:

Originally posted by Dan the Man
I looked up DDR. All I know about it is that it leads to puns like "pants pants revolution" and "ants ants revolution".
:lol: yea, dance dance revolution is another one of my addictions, along with r/c and guitar. :wave:

bill, thats alright, im not old enuff to drink anyways:thumbsup:

Where do you guys get your gears and what do you get? I don't see anything specific for the evader. Do I want the pinnion gear or something else, and what brand is the strongest. I'm planning on getting a bunch at a time, what tooth counts do you reccomend getting.

I'm planning on installing a reverseable 8t pro dratrax and an assortment of motors. trinity D4 8t single, pk2k,and a P-94 8t quad, just to see what fits me best, and I don't mind switching around for playing. Also looking to see how the trann takes the motors.

Any input on motors that might be good to look into?

Thanks
JR

JR

I buy 90% of my stuff from TowerHobbies.com

There are several other on line stores, as well as ebay.

Kimbrough makes good pinion gears and they provide them in kits. The kits come in varous combinations of gear sizes. I'd say pinion gears ranging from 15 to 25 will be used the most.

Speed Gem Pro series of motors are good. I'm running the 17T. That's the lowest turn motor I can handle right now. My driving control needs work, anything lower would be to fast for me.

Bill

thanks for the reply, do I need 48 pitch or the 64.. and what are spur gears used for, and will I ever change mine?:dude:

Jester,

48 pitch is the angle the teeth are cut at and you want your pinion and spur gear to be the same pitch. 48 pitch seems the most common.

Your spur gear is the large gear that makes contact with the pinion gear which is attached to the motor shaft. I would suggest that you keep your spur gear the same for now and make your tooth adjustments with the pinion gear. I would also suggest that you have an extra stock spur gear ready to go. They do strip out if you do not get the spur/pinion adjusted properly.

Kimbrough spurs for the T3 and B3 are drop-in compatible with the Evader. They do get chewed up, both through misalignment and through operation in a bad environment. So if you're not near a shop it's a good idea to have a spare.

I like steel pinions, the harder the better. They last longer.

Well Jester i think they pretty much covered pinions and spurs. i'm running a 20 tooth in my evader and its great for torque and top end.. depending on the track or area your driving in you might want to go up a couple or down a couple teeth. its all driver preference.

pne,
i got my lights today. i have them sitting here at my desk and i must say that i'm impressed with the craftsmanship. you gotta check out this "Ultimate Prowler" setup.. basically its a pedestal that attaches to the chassis and sits about 3 inches high. on top theres NICE super bright LEDs that are "AJUSTABLE" so i can aim them in any direction. its setup to shine out the windows from inside the car.

i've got a 4 day weekend coming up so i hope to find some time to hook this up. thanks for the tip on the ESC braking option. i noted those small wires this morning and wondered if those were the ones. and i was planning on trying to hook it up to my light set so its good to know that it'll work.

Jester- I'm using Robinson racing hardened steel pinions. Aluminum is a little lighter (and therefore less rotational weight) but like Dan said they don't last as long, and it's easy to strip the set screw. And I also carry a couple of stock spur gears with me.

I have a gear chart with recomendations for ratios to use with different motors for the Evader. I tried attaching the file to a thread message but it was either too large or the wrong format.

Contact me via e-mail and I can send you a copy.

rbtierney@worldnet.att.net

Hope this works and is of some help to you all.

Q2K2,yes the craftsmanship was superb, i was impressed too. too bad after i finished soldering it and connecting all the wires, it was a big messy tangle of wires, doh! :hat: (dunce cap) if there is still stuff for you to connect, take my advice and cut the wires to as short as you can allow. they come coiled neatly but come uncoiled pretty fast and suddenly 3 inches of neat wiring became 10 inches of tangles;)

Jester-what esc do you have at the moment? a nice motor to look into may be the trinity chameleon 2, its a 19 turn so if you have the duratrax sprint you could use it. you can check out trinities website for the numbers on the dyno and compare them with speed gems and p94's. the motors you mentioned above are at the very opposite ends of the spectrum to each other, the p94 and D4 are the really hot mods and the p2k2 is a stock. im not sure you wanna go down to the limit of the esc. maybe something like a speedgems 15 turn quad would be a good combination of speed and torque if thats what you're looking for.

I'm going over to a friends house this weekend and i'll see if he'll let me use his camcorder to get some footage of the evader. my blue neon leds now sit in the rear, right on top of the flat spot on the tanny case. i was doing a ground effect with the a-arms but it was too risky and i didnt want them coming off and getting caught in the wheels.

Wouldnt a good combo of speed and torque be a 15 single?????:lol:

(sorry I had to toss that int there :lol: )

:p :p do they even make sg 15 turn singles.. :p

What I am looking for is to test the extreams of the truck and what feels the best for me. and also If I race it and I want to race in stock I can, and vice versa.

As the T3 i'm guessing that you mean the stealth tranny?

Thanks for the advice
JR

BTW I've got an 8t pro reversable to install, just never enough time, being I have to drive 6 hrs with a pregnant wife in the car to see our parents.

Originally posted by p.n.e.
do they even make sg 15 turn singles..

No I dont think they do..:rolleyes: :lol: I was kidding in the first place man.What is it with the holidays coming that gets people so uptight?Sorry for the humorous comment man.

stop apologizing:lol: i didnt take it offensively in the first place..;)

speakin of christmas, what's on your wishlists? mines is a new computer, and a few trips to the lhs :roll:

Happy Turkey Day, all!

cj - which Losi shocks did you get? (for which model Losi, part #s, etc please :))

I didn't see anything on the Novak site about how to hook up the brake light circuit on the Roosters. If you have any insight, please feel free to share (that goes for everyone, really).

Q - I caught that about using stiffer springs in the Jag motor somewhere. I can't remember where, but after breaking the new motor in and pulling the brushes to clean the brush heads (none needed!) and the comm (very little needed) I did note that the stock springs seemed a bit weak. I'll be ordering a variety of springs soon. It's time to change the springs on my GM3 anyway.

Dan & Q - that was hilarious (the bit about ESC profiles). Y'all can have my beer, though; I don't imbibe.

What is all this stuff about DDR? ants? pants? To me, DDR refers to computer memory heh

Doodadded [DOO-da-id] (adj.): To feature doodads, usually in number. Having many doodads. See also "whistles and bells."
I'd say we have new termage here!

BobT - just a friendly suggestion, sweetie.. when you post an email address on a forum, it's good to write something like nospamname@whatever.com because spider bots cull email addresses from everywhere and are widely used by spammers. All you have to do is say to remove the nospam part. Or do like I do and have multiple "anonymous" email accounts so when one starts getting too much spam, just close it.

Jon - when you're doing wiring, if you think you may move stuff around later on and want to keep the length, you can coil the wires around a pencil. It gives it a nice look. Or you can bundle them and use zip ties. I've done it both ways, but I prefer mine bundled for my truck because I can tape them down to the chassis.

Wishlist? Almost everything on mine is RC related. Go fig, huh? :lol:

of course, what computer would be complete without 3gb of ddr ram?:D actually its a dancing game, dance dance revolution. if you've walked by an arcade you've probably seen people dancing on the machines. The instructions come with the led kit i believe, im sure they dont want you to know how to hook up any other non-novak leds to it. i hooked up a single led to it and it worked fine, im guessing you would just do two reds in parallel for the brakes.

Kitty- Not sure what the PNs are for the shocks because I got them on evilbay. They're hard anodized aluminum for the Losi XXXT and NT, shock bodies aren't threaded. These have pink springs and pink Teflon pistons. Losi makes a multitude of springs and pistons for these shocks so you can really play with the setup.

The instructions for soldering the brake lights are in the manual for my Fusion ESC. If the SuperRooster manual doesn't have them, I'd just download the Fusion manual from the Novak site.

And now for a new category, Brain Fart of the Week: I drove 50 miles Wednesday to a new track I'd heard about that was sort of on the way to Thanksgiving. Got everything unloaded, paid the fee, great looking track. Charged a battery, got ready to run, went, "Where's my transmitter"? It was at home, up high where I put it when I took it away from my 3 year old. I win the BFOW award this week, somebody else's turn next week.

i thought i would drop a line to give a quick tip i heard somewere..

use one of the tie rod dust cover's on the outside of the the diff's thrust bearing to keep dirt out, i have run this for a month or two now and it realy help keep the trust bearing smoother for a longer time.. thought i would mention it...

later
mames

cj - I've seen the shocks you are talking about. I assembled the shocks on my baby bro's Maxx, which aren't threaded, and I really prefer the threaded type like those that came stock on my Evader. I found a real pretty set of purple threaded shocks in both regular and heavy duty (longer throw, but would work fine on my truck) on a site, but I'm thinking I'll wait and see if DTX goes anywhere with the idea I submitted for the shock cap. I think it was this forum where I mentioned tossing the idea their way based upon a design combined from ideas by Jeff (Jep) and I.

You aren't the first to forget something crucial at home and certainly won't be the last. It's a bummer that you didn't get to race, though. I'll soon be buying some parts boxes and a big plastic tool box to keep all my stuff in. That way I can have everything all in one place for a change, instead if in various cardboard boxes all over my room and in my closet. My closet is a mess of "inventory" of computer, RC and electronics parts. Time to organise hehehe

Mames - good to see you again! By tie rod dust covers, I'm guessing you mean the foam donut thingies, right? Sounds like a good idea to me. I make my own out of that white non-static, closed-cell foam that comes with a lot of computer stuff. It's the right thickness and they last a lot longer than the stock foams.

When you say on the outside of the thrust bearing, are you putting it between the outer thrust washer and the nut? I'll have to give that a go, as I have to flip my diff anyway.

I am curious.Ive read about people having problems with the Evader shocks,But I cant see where anyone would have a problem with them?They are of Losi design,So what happens to them???I personally use Assoc. shocks on my evader mainly because I was just messin around one day did the swap and for some reason left it and now I like both kits (evader/T3) much better.The smaller piston on the Assoc. shocks allow for a quicker reaction where the DTX shocks have a lerger piston for SLOWER reaction.Now I dont go messing with shock pistons and all that no one could sell the idea for it to be worth while in my book.
So do the shock caps leak or do they break guys.....:confused: :confused:

I have attempted twice to get the pictures of my Evader posted and both times I receive the message that the file is to large. Now, I believe that they maybe, but the files are saved as jpg unlike the monster bmp files.

Assistance would be appreciated.

Thanks


EK:cool:

2nd Gear - The only problem I have with the stock shocks is the caps. They strip way too easily and the shocks are hard to bleed. Otherwise I'm pretty happy with them.

EK - What sizes are the files (in bytes/kb)? They may have a limit on here as to file sizes in pixels; I'm not sure. I've seen people post pictures on forums before that are way too large when they could have shrunk them down a bit. The same thing goes for pictures that take up half the page when the point of interest could be cropped into a much smaller image. Nothing like seeing a 200x200 picture of something, surrounded by someone's dirty carpet (bedspread, whatever) that takes up 800x800 pixels. Just one of those things. If you need help shrinking file sizes (bytes) or the size of pictures, please let me know. I do a lot of graphics work.

I forget which one of you guys around here mentioned to me in a PM that your son loves VW stuff. Please remind me, as I since have deleted the PM and I found a bug-eye baja body on a site.

kitty

hey put them in between the outter diff bolt and they drive axle, helps to seal they area from dirt and grime. i believe that should explain where to put this. i have be watching the board when i can, but have not driven in an r/c for 1 and 1/2 months now, winter setting in and do not like they idea of moister or snow with electronics. so my coments are being kept to minimum for now. also have been rebuilding my t3 and reduing my t-maxx for the upcoming season of fun.......not much time to spend on the computer with work, kids, play time....


later
Mames:eek:

Hello People,
just bought an evader today, nice RC, am surprsed that the thing is so fast outta the box and handles so nicely. bad news is that it is a lil touchy for me does not like curbs at full speed. =) snapped the servo saver and left front knuckle arm. its a bummer cause i was barely on my second pack and was just gettin the "feel" for it. didnt quite get it tho =)

thinkin about some upgrades for the front end, from reading the last 59 pages of posts seems that the front end is weak. does anyone have any suggestions, or links for beefin up the front end so that an occasional bump wont send it to the pit? Ill wait for the new motor and bigger battery packs till I can control this thing better.

also was reading in one of the earlier posts that someone had mentioned a track at Mile Square Park? does it exist?

Thanks

also, has any of the mods maybe considered an evader forum? seems like a pretty popular thread, might better be suited to its own forum, just a thought.:thumbsup:

jep makes a set of aluminum braces that i hear will help tons, im sure someone knows the link. be sure to set your servo saver up properly as it is very important with plastic geared servo's. After a few runs you should start to hear the diff loosening, so be sure to tighten that up and set your slipper accordingly. enjoy your new truck! :thumbsup:

pne, Are you still knee deep in snow. Question for you, at what tempature does the plastic start to get brittle?

mmonti, welcome to the thread and Eveader RCing. Jerrits Evader FAQ thread was started to help all of us find fixes, modifications, and other information related to the ST. Check it out.

Everyone, Happy Thanksiving to you and yours.

Bill

Jep RC is the place to check out the front brace pne is talking about. Great up grade, low cost and it works very well.

Thanks guys.
Was looking at jep's brace last night, more than likely will get it or make my own similiar. waiting for LSH to open here, opens at 10am on Sunday, I want my parts!

Is it worthwhile to replace all the front end parts that I can with aluminum or titanium, was think would make everything more rigid without any give at all and could possibly cause more damage during those head ons and such?

also thinkin I might need some type of bumper on this thing to protect it a lil more till i can take my training wheels off does anyone make such a thing or possibly another one that fits? maybe that wraps around the whole front end protecting L & R front wheels
im pretty sure that will save me some frustration till i get goin.

2nd Gear- I like the Evader shocks, but I (like Kitty) find then hard to bleed and the shock caps tend to strip. Also, there are so many combinations of springs and pistons available for the Losi shocks.

Kitty- You can get threaded shock bodies for the Losi shocks, you just have to keep an eye out.

Mames- Thanks for the tip. I raced this weekend and had problems with the batteries dumping. Couldn't find anything else dragging and finally decided the thrust bearing must be shot.

Raced yesterday, ist time at this track. Qualified 6th for the stock A main. Ended up last in the main when my batteries dumped in the middle of the last lap and I couldn't finish it. Truck ran well except for the batteries dumping. Main problem was lack of practice (didn't get there until race time) and the fact that they had the track so wet it was packing my bowties and I couldn't get rear traction. I'm taking the stock Duratrax pins next time, which I've found work really well on a wet track. The Evader got lots of attention, especially from the guy next to me whose AE broke in the first 2 heats while the Evader kept going. With some work on my setup and driving (very rusty) I think I'll do much better.

mm,

The Evader's front end is strong. Also, with the return policy Duratrax has on broken parts, you will always beable to get them replaced. My approch is to have some basic spare parts around, the ones I think I'll brake, so I can keep driving while I wait for the replacement.

Adding aftermarket mods. is always drivers preference. I would say take it slow and replace or modify your truck as you see the need.

I think Losi makes a bumper that works, check their site.

Bill

Kudos to those who said to go to the Losi spacers with the Losi rims. Problem solved. Might try them if you're having problems with the RPM rims.

Here is yet another attempt to post the pictures of my resurrected Evader.

EK :roll: