Conservative Shmervative.. what ever. drive it like you mean it!

or until something breaks :D

Subaru Rally Body mounted up perfectly last night. i was a little worried because the front body posts are so low and theres no 'good' place to mount extended body posts on the ST's. but i gotta say it look pretty awesome. pics later.

i've got a birthday coming up in a week or so and i pretty much told everyone that my lhs has gift certificates :D. i'm hoping a new set of rims and tires come out of it. it would be nice to have two sets for each truck (Stampede and evader).

i got a Super Rooster today, maybe i'll pick up a 13T this weekend:eek:

what rims out there fit on the evaders with no slop?

since i dont race i was thinking about some nice looking RPM's


later y'all (kitty :p)

Yeah, I thought maybe it was grabbing the inner and outer races, but I can't find any good reason for that. I'm using the same bearings, lock washer, and locking nut that were in the stock wheels. In the case of the washer, the inner portion of the side that fits up against the bearing protrudes slightly and it looks like it functions in the same manner that a short spacer would (i.e. it keeps the lock nut from putting pressure on the outer race). I noticed that the bearings don't fit tightly in the Losi rims the way they do in the Evader rims. I'm wondering if maybe the Losi rims aren't actually spinning on the bearing while the bearing remains stationary when the nut is tight. I may have to find some bearings designed for the Losi rims to test this.

http://www.stipart.com/rc_pics/5.jpg

http://www.stipart.com/rc_pics/6.jpg

http://www.stipart.com/rc_pics/2.jpg

http://www.stipart.com/rc_pics/3.jpg

:DQ

pne,
i think you asked if i'd mounted up the lights but i havent even recieved my sets yet. because he was making some unique light bar that has adjustable beams to light up from inside the body he ran out of lights.. so it took a little longer. when i get it set up tho i'll be sure to post some pictures..

that is one sweet body! thought it was a totally different truck until i saw your chippped white rims :p hope you get the leds in soon. are you gonna mount them on that particular body?

Thanks.

the chips give it away everytime.. hopefully i'll get some new rims soon.. i think the RPM 5 spokes if we can figure out why they dont fit quite right.

i'll probably take off the Hella Stickers and put the led's in where the fog lights are. then i have the wheel kit lights too. not sure what i'll do with those yet. i might aim them down so when i'm driving at night it lights up the street.

i just ripped it up out in the parking lot and leaves were going everywhere..

i definitely need more traction up front. the stick tires just arent doing it anymore. a 30 feet isnt an acceptable turn radius:lol:

Q

you have to spend a lot of time aligning the lights to get them to aim and light up right. lexan is a pain in the butt to work with and i dont have a dremel, almost snapped one of the leds. :( i just tested mines outside in the dusk and they arent that bright at all compared to a pitch black room in the house. you better have a lot of lights aiming at the ground to light it up. maybe you should consider getting a seperate battery for it too, mines when dim when i hit the throttle halfway thru the pack.

This was a easy question once I read it.The bearing spacer (the spacer that goes in the wheel between the bearings) is smaller on the duratrax wheels then on Losi wheels.Instead of waisting money on bearings get a set of Losi bearing spacers.........If not you could make one..The amount of slop "I" got while putting the Losi rims on was the same as the stock wheels.I dont know why you choose to reef them on but hey it is your kit.It is a nylock nut no need to over tighten it.:wave:

Alright, here's the current rundown on the Evader. Yellow Losi rims, Pro Line Edge up front, Pro Line bowties in the back, Futaba Magnum Jr. FM radio, Futaba S9402 high-speed coreless BB servo, Novak Fusion ESC, Orion Core stock motor, and Dean's connectors. Ready to race, except when I was installing the new servo I noticed that one of the cheesy stock Evader shocks is leaking. Guess I know what I'm doing in the morning. Losi shocks should be here Mon or Tues. I want to post a picture of it. Should I do that in the gallery or is there another place?

2nd gear, I got the Losi rims because the LHS closest to me doesn't have any Evader stuff yet and I needed to mount a 2nd set of tires. I'm not tightening the lock nut any more than I was with the stock rims, and they always spun freely. What I actually did was mounted one Losi rim and then compared it to the stock rim that was still on. Had to back the Losi rim off further than the Evader one and the difference in wheel play is noticeable.

Q, almost forgot. Major props for the Legacy body, it is sweet.

Nice body, Q:thumbsup:
I finally figured out what was wrong with my evader. I had a really strange cicking noise coming from my tranny, but I couldn't tell what it was. The gears inside the tranny were fine, the pinion and spur where fine, so I figured it might be the motor. I took the motor apart and thoroughly cleaned it, but the clicking still remained. Last night I opened the tranny again and took out the differential. Recently, I have been having problems with my slipper and diff. For some reason, the slipper kept tightening itself throughout the course of the run, and no matter how tight the diff was, it slipped. I had to go real easy on the throttle to prevent that. All this slipping melted the differential gear where the diff balls sit. The once round openenings for the balls were were almost sealed from the melting. I guess I'll be picking up a diff rebuild kit and a new diff gear today.

I have just returned from my LHS and inquired into a 17T motor. The gentleman a the store informed me that the 17T motor would stress the Evaders speed control. Can someone shed some light on this.

EK :cool:

EK- If you look on Tower's website it says that the Sprint ESC can handle motors down to 20 turns. Duratrax told me it would take motors down to 17 turns, but I'm guessing you're right at it's limits. When I put a 19 turn double in mine, the ESC ran hot and would shut down occasionally, but I only had one capacitor on the motor at the time, not two like they recommend. I know some others on the forum are running motors around 17 or 18 turns. I just replaced the ESC with a Novak.

Don't do it. It'll go into thermal shutoff, or possibly just melt down. If you want more power get a good ESC to go with the faster motor.

(The little capacitors on the motor actually have nothing to do with this. They're a radio noise filter. The big capacitor that goes with racing ESCs does allow the ESC to run cooler, but I've no idea if retrofitting one to a cheapo ESC would do any good.)

pne, did you ever try the small pinion on that 9-turn like I said?

not yet, still waiting for the parents to drive me to great hobbies which has it. about an hour drive :(. all the other lhs's close by me are pathetic, their prices are sky high and their stock is old as i am. i walked into one out of desperation last week and asked for a pinion, the guy showed me 20 different spurs *sigh* then he pulled out all these odd sized gears i didnt even reconize (maybe nitro?) for now i'm using the stock photon only. all the runs i do with the 9 turn would be under the power curve as you mentioned and so i'm praticing patience:roll:

heheh..i just thought of something, for christmas i'll be sure to tell my friends that i want gift certificates from great hobbies, thus forcing my parents to drive me there! :D

btw, the evaders been driving great lately, i cant quite figure out why, but i've been bashing it more and more on really solid snow, the stuff thats been iced over, and my neighbours landscaping rocks. it is really soaking up the terrain and has never gotten stuck yet :) maybe its the wd-40 in the shocks :lol:

Dan, what kind of speeds should i expect when i gear down on that 9 turn? lets say a 12 tooth or so? i'm planning on getting a 12 tooth and a 15 tooth so i have a nice even range switch over 12-15-20 in case im not satisfied with the 12 turns top speed.

You don't want a 12-tooth pinion. When the gears get that small the distortion of the tooth shape gets bad. The ratio is way too low anyways. 15 to 17 is the right range. On my home track I'd choose a 16 but on a high-traction track I'd choose a 17. I told you 15 because it's safe.

The only time I've seen speed measured was on mod buggies, they were making 34-35 mph or so down the straightaway at HRH.

Hey Dan, you've been saying to run a pinion that's 7 or 8 teeth over the motor turn for winds under 14 turns. If you look on Jerritt's Evader FAQ, it says run a pinion that's 4 teeth over for low wind mods. Is this just a difference of opinion, or did the group do some testing earlier and decide that bigger pinions were the way to go? I've been running 23 or 24 tooth pinion with a 19 double and it's worked great. I haven't gone to a real low wind yet 'cause that'd have the same effect as putting me in Tony Stewart's car (lots of broken parts, load of DNF's, no wins). The FAQ also gives the Evader gear ratios, but I haven't verified.

p.n.e.- Tower Hobbies has a huge selection of 48 pitch Robinson Racing pinions. They work great on the Evader. Check it out and see if they have what you need.

I've been working out the overall ratios based on the ones for the T3, with consideration for the lower ratio transmission. For the T3 with an 87-tooth spur it's 6 over. Here's an example:

12-turn motor
T3 manual: (87 spur / 18 pin) * 2.4 tranny = 11.61 ratio

EVST: 88 spur / (11.61 ratio / 2.66 tranny) = 20.16 pin, round down to 20, which is 8 over wind.

You can make finer adjustments with the spur than the pinion. One tooth down on the pinion is equivalent to four or five up on the spur.

My home track is loose and you need to paddle dirt and throw a rooster tail to make speed, so I usually run about 1 tooth lower than recommended.

thanks dan, 15 tooth it is.

cjt- the lhs great hobbies, which is also a big canadian hobby site www.greathobbies.com is conviently located an (ok) driving distance from me. it seems kinda silly to put and order for a small pinion gear and minimum shipping from the states. i will however, order from tower when i save up enough for that 1/8 buggy i wanted. thanks :)

kitty, did you ever get that email i sent you eons ago?

Woo hoo boys and girls! I just checked my friendly neighborhood Tower Hobbies website, and the new slipper pads and plates are in stock. Mine are on the way. Looks like they also have several new spur gears for sale.

Dan thanks for the info, but why do you keep the gear ratio constant? I'd think you'd want to change it as you went to motors with more RPM and less torque, or vice versa. Really don't have any experience with low wind motors, so I'm guessing.

And last, if I've done everything properly, this should be the link to a picture of my Evader as it is right now. I've been too busy messing with the mechanicals to do a pretty body yet, but hopefully sometime soon. http://users3.ev1.net/~cthayer/evader-2.jpg

I know I've mentioned this before, but here's the link. http://www.team-orion.ch/faq
They have info on batteries, motors, tires, suspension, decals, everything. It looks like they're updating a bunch of stuff on the motor and battery FAQs. I have old copies of the info and it's awesome. Can't wait to see the updates.

When it comes to Mod. you need to take into account what type of mod your using...Singles are the torque monsters of mods and doubles will have a lil less torque but be more smooth when applying the power.Triple winds are even smoother with transfering the power.With a single your best to gear a tooth or 2 lower then what you would do for a double or triple.I personally would NOT gear more then the 4 tooth "rule" unless your track is huge and can you can keep real nice speed round the bends..

Ive read numorous threads,articles on how gearing effects your vehicles speed and how noone can explain why a larger spur/smaller pinion combo makes more torque-then a smaller spur/larger pinion combo of the same value.But one very important factor is the Evaders tranny has a lower ratio when comparing it to the T3.

But now if you look at a Matt Francis XXXT,Now we are playing with a whole other bag O chips...When he ran at the Cactus Classic he used a 12x2.Gearing was (92 spur/23 pin)*2.43 tranny =9.72 which basicly 2 teeth under wind>>>>>>Now who do you think is right now p.n.e./Its ok I dont know either?????:wave:


the very BEST info to give is go under geared and work your way up to a motor temp you can live with...Heat+motor=burnt comm

Originally posted by cjtamu
Dan thanks for the info, but why do you keep the gear ratio constant? I'd think you'd want to change it as you went to motors with more RPM and less torque, or vice versa. Really don't have any experience with low wind motors, so I'm guessing.
You misinterpreted. The overal ratio for a given motor is about the same between the two trucks. But for a different motor you'd go to a different pinion - 6 teeth over wind for the T3 or 8 over for the evader.

Originally posted by 2nd Gear
I personally would NOT gear more then the 4 tooth "rule" unless your track is huge and can you can keep real nice speed round the bends..

I think you're being too conservative. If you can't handle the speed you need to go back to stock class and keep learning.
Ive read numorous threads,articles on how gearing effects your vehicles speed and how noone can explain why a larger spur/smaller pinion combo makes more torque-then a smaller spur/larger pinion combo of the same value.
:confused: Isn't it obvious? Simple mechanical advantage. Gears are essentially fancy levers. Same reason it works that way on a bicycle. You have ridden a bicycle, right?
But one very important factor is the Evaders tranny has a lower ratio when comparing it to the T3.
I've never been convinced it's that big a deal, as long as the overall ratio (motor to outdrive) is the same.
But now if you look at a Matt Francis XXXT,Now we are playing with a whole other bag O chips...When he ran at the Cactus Classic he used a 12x2.Gearing was (92 spur/23 pin)*2.43 tranny =9.72 which basicly 2 teeth under wind>>>>>>Now who do you think is right now p.n.e./Its ok I dont know either?????:wave:
Math? 92/23 is the same ratio as 88/22, which is 10 teeth over wind, not 2 under. This is suspicious anyways... if you look at his setup sheets he's consistently 8 over with an 88 spur. He can do this because a) the XXXT has a slightly lower ratio and larger spur, and b) he's a team driver with blueprinted motors and a very smooth style that doesn't waste power.[B][QUOTE]

ah..you've completly lost me :confused:

Man O man I after I rechecked what I put that I cant believe what I said!!!!!I had a long day of racing yesterday and getting up at 430am on a saturday isnt my bag.We had 18 heats and 140 entries..

The only thing I regret is the MattFrancis comparo (man was that dumb!Confused high and low gearing LOL).And when it comes to the 4 tooth rule I am not wrong because you start out with a lower number and find a tooth count that suits your driving style plus you dont want it to hot so this is also how you find what gear you need for the track YOU drive on.You obviously run the heck out of mod (we have been on a stock kick here in michigan mod is coming back)My evader will be in the mod class next race day.My T3 will stay in stock if I choose to run it.I run a XX4 with a 10x2 so yes I know all about speed,do U have 4WD?I also run a XXX Kinwald,I have been racing a while man Im not no noob Ive been doin this for 10 years..I have other hobbies as well,R/C is my winter past time..
But Dan answer this if you have ALL the answers.
Why would Matt use the 92spur/23pin combo if the 88/22 is the same ratio???HMMMMMMMMM?????

Oh yeah BTW I wasnt doggin you or anything in my first post heck I wasnt even speakin to you.But you clearly pointed me out....I have respect for the Hankster to not start a flame job on here which I feel like you are doin...

I have some ideas as to the gear sizes... they might be BK pitch, or the larger gears give a better mesh, or he deliberately added mass to slow it down, or he already had the big spur on and decided he'd geared down too far, or... Could be anything really.

I'm more interested in how he was able to go 2 teeth higher without cooking his motor. That's why I called it suspicious... it doesn't seem right.

After the same long day of racing that 2ndgear had. I killed the diff/trans for the 3-4th time help me. I rebulit the diff using all the new carbide balls and sanding the new diff rings everything was working flawlessly and smooth as silk. I babied it durring break in. The slipper a litte on the loose side to help save the transmission. My race day was going great until a ball stud came loose from the trans brace ( while leading my stock truck qualifier this does not happen often ) Removed the trans as a unit so I could replace the ball stud put it all back together and no limited slip from the diff it was locked up like a posi trac (not good) I checked and rechecked everything looked good still no smooth diff action as before. long story short last qualifier destroyed the idler gear ( 2nd time ) What went wrong? How can I stop this from happening? I was having a blast and being competitve. All I need is some reliable parts I love my truck and like beating the xxt's and t3's Do I have to upgrade to the competition? HELP

EK,
i know its been a couple days since you asked about motors on the Stock Sprint ESC. i have been running a 17T Jaguar (from PeakRacing) for 3-4 months now and i havent had a single problem with my ESC getting too hot or shutting down. i would say go for it but if you go with a different motor than the Jag i cant vouche for that.

i've also been running a 17T in my Stampede with the Stock ESC and it too says down to a 17T.. fyi.

but i just recieved my Super Rooster so i'll be dropping a 13T in soon.. :D

Man, looks like I opened up a can of worms with the pinion question. Sounds like it's a matter of personal preference based on driving style, the track, etc.

22Racer- Looks like there's another racer who needs your idler and diff gears. Bluelight, see previous post (4 or 5 pages back) from 22Racer on products he's thinking about making.

Hey CJ
yeah pinions ARE tough.. i went up teeth when i got my 17T because i wanted top end for bashing. now i'm thinking of going down to see if i can get enough torque to pop wheelies.. your best bet is to have a selection so you an try them out to see which one fits your driving style and surfact you'll be driving on..

Q

Anybody know what the inner gear ratio is on the Losi XXXT? I was looking at their set-up sheets for comparison. They list 2 for the XXT (2.19 and 2.61), but I couldn't find anything for the triple xt.

Originally posted by cjtamu
Anybody know what the inner gear ratio is on the Losi XXXT? I was looking at their set-up sheets for comparison. They list 2 for the XXT (2.19 and 2.61), but I couldn't find anything for the triple xt.


Whats up cjt the answer to you question is 2.43..I had to look through my mountian of car action magz to find it lol...:thumbsup:

Q2K2, you're gonna love that super rooster even with the 17 turn. i noticed a big difference the first time i dropped it in, plus the squeal is low then the stock so its not as anoyying when im buzzing around the basement:)

Awesome!

i didnt realize i'd see a difference with the same motor. not to mention the sound is a plus too :D

righton pne thanks!

any pics of your lights yet? still waiting for mine.. :cry:


All Points Bulletin!
has anyone ever seen a 1/10 scale Honda Del Sol Body?

a buddy of mine is looking for one to put on his RC so he can put it on display with his real Del Sol at Car shows but he cant locate any.

I just got the Duratrax 8T pro and man lemme tell yeah it blows the Super Rooster out of the water.But if you "need"rev then Id get the dually from novak it is also better then the SR..

Com'on Man... i just UPGRADED to the Rooster.. dont knock it yet. give me a couple months and then i'll sell it too my roomate and invest in something better.. :thumbsup:

i needed an unlimited ESC and i got a great deal on this one from a friend in another thread. i'm sure this will do the trick for now and a 13T or 14T will do nicely in either my Pede or the Evader..

Q

Oh man Im not doggin it just sayin that if someone is to buy a esc to look at the 8T pro it is nice.Ive had a superrooster b4 and loved it...Also you got it used so you cant knock that beings you didnt pay full price for it.Ive also had the Racer Ex and it is nice heck I still use it.Isnt the Super R huge!LOL man when I first got mine I was like OMG this is HUGE!
But if you ask me getting anythign that can handle more then 8turns and is a waist IMHO.Unless your a basher and like to have some fun dinkin around and want to buy a motor like a 6 turn youll just burn up for fun then I say it is worth it.:thumbsup:

I don't like my 8t pro as much as my son's novak c2. I should have spent the extra money. Anyone looking for a 8t pro for about $70. It only has about 6 runs on it.

Originally posted by 22Racer
I don't like my 8t pro as much as my son's novak c2. I should have spent the extra money. Anyone looking for a 8t pro for about $70. It only has about 6 runs on it.

What is it you dont like 22Racer???Have you had any problems with it?The 8t pro has as many options as the C2 minus the need for the pit wizard.
What do you feel is so different???I am curious I love mine.:confused:

What do you guys like and dislike about your ESC's. Why do you consider one better than the other? What do you look for when compairing them? Other than how many turns they can handle and of course if they have reverse or not.
Thanks
Bill

the great thing about the super rooster is that in all its years the resale value is still pretty good. i got offered more than i paid for it :D it is pretty big but pretty darn good for something thats been around for awhile.

bill-i look for the stuff you mentioned as well as internal resistance, how many cells it can handle, and those nice extras like the smart braking on the rooster and the brake light option. some esc's also let you set the throttle curve(not sure what its called) and some let you dial out reverse which is handy.

on the negative side i look for weight, size, moisture issues, heat issues etc.



hey Dan, have you ever heard of DDR?

Q - I'm now partial to HPI wheels. Though there are only a few style choices for their "universal" line (comes with adapters to fit pretty much any vehicle), they fit like a glove on my truck. Well, a very worn glove, that is, as with all the flips, cartwheels and other abuse I've given my truck lately, they're pretty scuffed up on the outsides.

VERY nice paint job on the Legacy! What type of body mounts are you using and where did you mount them for the front? It looks like you connected them to the front shock tower somehow. You must have your shocks laid down as far as possible or you did something radically different because that body lays down nice and low. Again, great job!!

If you are bashing on asphalt, another pair of Dirt Hawgs will help with turning. Mine grip very well - so much, in fact, that lil' ol' leadfoot me has a tendency to make my truck roll or cartwheel on turns if I slide across the gravelly part and into a grass "hump" (really old side street with grass growing through the cracks).

CJ - I'm all for your posting pictures in here!

Jon - yes, I received your email. My apologies for not writing back. I had intended to write back, but got super busy then took a few days away from work and the forums. I'll write back soon, though.

I'd send you my 15t pinion except it would cost just as much to ship it to Canada as I paid for it. I'll see if my LHS will let me trade it in because they sell them. I bought it at Tower but the LHS guy is pretty nice.

All - I got my new slipper setup! Too bad I can't try it out until at least later this week because I'm waiting for replacement front hub carriers (broke one last week). I went ahead and ordered a new set, and sent the broken one and a few other smashed parts to Hobby Services for replacement. I think they all know me there now hehehe

In regards to the "4-tooth rule" thingy, does that mean I can put a 31t pinion in mine? It's a 27T motor hehe JUST kidding!

Dan - BK pitch? Please explain. Dang. That makes me hungry for a burger now.

Bill - Glad you brought up the subject of ESCs. I'm using a Rooster right now and it sure does whine (more than me right now over not being paid this month :() The one thing I don't like about it is not being able to try a 7-cell pack in my truck. Baby bro' just went to 7C packs for his Maxx and he's leaving me in the dust. Maybe not for long, because the Jaguar 17x2 is mounted and ready to go, the new slipper assembly will be put in as soon as I get new hub carriers (not related - I just like doing everything at one time if I can). Plus, now that it's much cooler out, I can gear back up. He's toast as long as I can control my truck hehehe

Sorry this was so long, guys. That's what I get for taking a few days off and missing out on everything. ::sigh::

I had one problem with the 8t pro. the button to change profiles wouldn't work after about a month. I sent it in and got a brand new one back, I was happy with the service. It just doesn't have the punch the novak has, the novak makes even a cheap battery feel fast. If you race, and you have to have that little extra punch to clear a double that's hard to clear, that's the difference. maybe it's just me I don't know.

With the Novak what are you saying buy punch? Do you mean the ESC's ability to pass the current through it?
B

Howdy all. Got my Losi shocks yesterday, and they are the real deal. It really does take about 30 seconds to fill them. Hope my diff rebuild kit gets here before tomorrow.

2nd Gear- Thanks for taking the time to find the info on the XXXT ratio. B/W the Losi site and the Orion site I now have a ton of setup info to play with.

pne: DDR? I've got way too many three letter acronyms swimming around in my brain.

kitty: Trinity sells gears that are pitched somewhere between 48 and 64, with Brian Kinwald's name attached. They're smoother than 48 and allow finer adjustments, but are still rugged enough for offroad.

Originally posted by 22Racer
I had one problem with the 8t pro. the button to change profiles wouldn't work after about a month. I sent it in and got a brand new one back, I was happy with the service. It just doesn't have the punch the novak has, the novak makes even a cheap battery feel fast. If you race, and you have to have that little extra punch to clear a double that's hard to clear, that's the difference. maybe it's just me I don't know. Hey Bud,sorry to hear about the button messin up on ya.It is funnny how you said it dont have the punch the novak has.When I ran my first qual in my 4WD (first time using the 8T pro)I thought the same EXACT thing?But then I went to the insructions (I started with the automatic track set-up settings {Offroad})And I didnt care for it so I went on to turn full brake max.,,and min brake to 10% and turned all the others off And set it to 15600 drive frequency..Hehe I had a heck of a time drivin it after I changed the settings BUT I was told to do that by a trusted local driver..By the time the main came I was driving way better got better with the throttle.Only thing was I had 2 burnt bearings in my front right hub which made it hard to drive anyway.(I wondered where the slop came from lol)

BILL-Your gonna get different responses to that ESC question (obviously) but one of the MAIN things to look for is on-resistance.
The restriction an ESC offers to the flow of the current to the motor at full speed. The lower the on-resistance, the higher the efficiency (performance) of the ESC.
Second is drive frequency-The frequency at which the duty cycle information is being sent from the speed control to the motor during forward drive (How many times-per-second the motor is being cycled on and off to control its speed). It also controls the acceleration characteristics of your vehicle with respect to trigger movement in the Full Throttle direction.
(Yes I borrowed from Novak's site but it save me typin time ;) )

Now if you look at the specs on the 8T pro it has almost the same on-resistance as a C2 8Tpro has .0005 the C2 has .00049
The drive frequency of the 8Tpro is 15600 and so is the same for the C2.The C2 can get as high as 23,400 with optional Pit Wizard or ESC Profile Software.
The lower the drive freq. the more "punch" off the line it will have.But you will have hotter-Batts,Motor,ESC's