have run these bodies:
evader truck
hpi baja mt
hpi porsche turbo 190mm

set truck for trophy race at porsch only challange.
ran traxxas rusttler shocks 1/4 shorter.
shocks set for lowest height. didn't drive any better then stock shocks with team losi wheels and tires.
didn't run trophy race track at hobbico for tx,rx and tranny problehms.

Q & p.n.e. - did either of you get your light kits yet?

I agree with what Dan said about the new slipper set. If Tower doesn't have them, it's doubtful that anyone else will, seeing as how they are Duratrax.

jacob - I'd take pictures of my Evader catching air, but the way things have gone for me with mine, I'd also have to include pictures of it in pieces after it landed. What is "s.s + w = 13" all about?

Q - I think I'm going to save my Buggsy body for my next vehicle. Right now I'm very unhappy with Duratrax and don't feel that adding even a $22 body to it would be justified. Nice pic of yours jumping, though it made me cringe thinking about how much it would cost me if I tried that with my POS Evader.

Ron,
do you have pictures of the Porche setup? i'm about to put some street wheels & tires on my evader and would like to see how you set yours up. or at least how it looked. the wheels i'm getting are off a rustler so i'm not sure if they make an addapter for them or not but it was a great deal. if nothing else i'll put them on my stampede for midnight runs down the street.

Kitty,
havent recieved the lights yet.. probably late next week or early following. the guy ran out of lights for my setup.. one one truck i'll have the ability to set up a 17 light setup. 2 headlights, 2 tail lights 4 wheel kit lights and 9 adjustable lights that shine from inside the cab outward. it should no doubt be a spectical to see.

sorry to hear of your changed opinion of the evader. mine sits dormant right now until i paint up a new body. the bug body is really cracked now. also still need to go buy that ball stud.

:cry: still waiting for front bulkhead and front shock tower to come in. but should get them today. will click a pick. the rustler rims won't work right on the evader becouse the axles are not the same size. wich will give the wheels slop. have a rustler for the kids and tried to swap but but didn't. but if you do figure something out let me know.:wave:

my lights should come in monday or tuesday. 17 lights?! that is crazy! it'll look like a light bulb lol. 9 is a lot to shine inside the cab, something i considered was making a row of offroading lights on the top of the roof with 6 whites, that would be really bright! how much did he charge you for 19? the guy told me a 10 light setup would be 40 bux. all i'm getting are 4 headlights and two blues that will create a ground effect.

ronbeck,

In the jerrits Evader FAQ thread you will find a lot of info on modifing the ST's front end. I do not know the Rustler's sizes so I can not say that this is your answere but it is a good place to start.

The post was writen by baneonrt and is about 1/3 of the way down the first page.

:dude: was lower with my truck shorter shcoks.

does it come clear or yellow?

porshce body is a hpi 190mm body.
so it's clear with over spray film.

Do you guys think that either of the hpi lamborghini bodies would fit (diablo/murcielego)? The porsche looks really cool (I'm a 911 turbo fan), and I think it would be cool to do an offroad lambo. Do you have any top-down shots to show better detail on the mounting of the body? Thanks

will some later. just use some hpi long posts mounted to the back of the stock shock towers. one bad thing about car bodies offroading, is the nose overhages. i would check for the shortes body if i were going to run it alot. peter:)

JB you read my mind, i'm a big lamborghini fan :D
guys check out the duratrax site if you havent lately, a nitro evader page is now up, with videos!

do you guys think a 17 tooth pinion would be good nuff for the 9 turn? thats all the lhs has:cry:

the lambo body by hpi is for the super nitro. think it would be to big..?? and the nose is long, might hang to far over. nothing like taking a small jump with aliile speed and flipping becouse the front end digs inot the ground. :devil:

Peter, that Porsche setup looks killer! Does the body hang low enough over the motor to cause any cooling problems? That is SO sweet looking! I just changed your name when I saw you write it in another post. I thought your name was like Ron Beck or something. Oops. And here I've been calling you Ron. My bad.

JB, I considered trying something wacky with other bodies, especially European style sports/race cars, but the main drawback I can see would be mounting it where it doesn't sit so high. On the other hand, I love the monster truck look of ronbeck's Porsche, so heck, go for it!

p.n.e. - a 17t ought to be fine as long as it doesn't cause the motor to heat up too much or strain itself from a dead start. I doubt the latter because that motor ought to have enough power even at low end to handle the 17t easily. That's just a guess, though. I don't have direct experience with low-turn motors, but I have read a lot. It's been pretty cool a night here, so I may bump back up to the 20t with my GM3 Pro at night for a little extra top end. Heck, I still need to solder a Dean's onto the Jag and get it broken in so I can try it out.

Something I just remembered about the Jaguar motor I bought... I think it only has one or two capacitors on it. Do any of you who have Jag motors have any tips? I'm thinking that I need to solder an extra one or two on mine just to be sure. I also didn't realise that it has adjustable timing, so does anyone have any tips there? I see the notches, but I don't know which ones are which. My only experience so far has been with locked timing motors.

ps to p.n.e.: did you get my PM? I never heard back from you. Also, do you go by a nickname or what's your real name? I'm getting lazy on typing the dots in your forum nick ;)

Hi Kitty:

It's been way to long, how you been.

I was reading one of thoes generic articles about motor timing and the jest of the article was "all motors improve with advanced timing" the recommended about a 20 degree advance as a good place to start. I'm as confused by the little lines on my Speed Gem as you are. The articel said to advance it counter clockwise by a 1/4".

Maybe your motors web site would have specific details.

My SG has three capacitors.

kitty, the dots are optional;) or you can just call me jon. as for the timing ticks, i've been told the double tick is the indicator, all you do is loosen the endbell screws a tiny bit and rotate the double tick to whereever timing you want. does the jag have a timing sticker stuck on? that makes things a ton easier. usually people i've talked to run their speed gem pros at 15-20 degrees of timing(this is called advanced timing), however it also wears your comm faster. the other type of timing (retarded) is when you rotate the double tick backwards into the negative degrees. i've been told doing this wrong will wreck your motor so i havent tried it. also, dont go above 24 degrees of timing, thats not good for your motor either.

sorry bout the pm, i'll go check it now :)

have not had much heat, but i am only running a 19t orion rush. with the wheel wells so open good air flow, and i was running it without the motor gaurd. was going for a concourse win.
first name peter last name ronbeck. sounds like it's spelled. ron is not the worst thing i have been callled. one of my uncle's calls me mike, that's his sons name. :)

The timing reference mark on the endbell is on the side between the brush holders, next to the screw. Some have two marks right together that form a "tooth" in between that's the reference point. I've attached a pic that will show you where. Next to it are several more; these are extra references and are at 12 degrees apiece.

This particular motor (a Trinity D5) also has lots of marks on the label, but many motors don't, or only have a single mark at the neutral point. Usually the can has a mark on it. On a Speed Gems 2 it's right between the Es. At any rate, the neutral point is directly between the magnets.

The motor is directional, don't forget. Make sure that, looking at it from the same angle as the pic, the can timing mark should be on the top, the positive endbell side on the right and the negative on the left, and the endbell should be rotated counterclockwise from the neutral point.

I haven't played much with timing; I've just been running mine at 15 degrees. Some references tell you between 10 and 20, while others tell you between 24 and 30...

Hi Everyone,

I just finished putting a new lid on my XXT-CR Graphite Plus (I know, this is the Evader thread, but I thought you all might want to check it out too). Let me know what you think.

http://sio.midco.net/jbriden/photos/lid1.jpg
http://sio.midco.net/jbriden/photos/lid2.jpg
http://sio.midco.net/jbriden/photos/lid3.jpg
http://sio.midco.net/jbriden/photos/lid4.jpg

Jep

Jep, I like the look, very clean, and your attention to detail is outstanding. I'm getting ready to pick up a new body for mine and will be trying the painting side of this hobby. Wish me luck.

Dan, thanks for the motor timing post. When I get back to my car in about a week I will start to play with the timing a little and see how the SG likes it.

What type of shocks is everybody running? They're the one thing on the Evader I think is kind of cheesy.

Stock shocks, with 30wt oil, white springs.

on road traxxas rustler shocks, and off road t-maxx hop up high volume metal shaocks. :dude:

Peter,

Is that Rustlers front, t-maxx rears?

Bill

when on road run all rusler shocks and when off road run all t-maxx shocks. use bottom out holes and top out holes for front shocks. when i started runing this set up stoped breaking servo arms.

what servo arms do you guys run with metal high torque servos:confused:
thanks

Got ya now on the shocks.

As for the servo, I'm still all stock.

Originally posted by cjtamu
What type of shocks is everybody running? They're the one thing on the Evader I think is kind of cheesy.
For off-road... I run stock Evader shocks with 35Wt oil and white soft springs, stock mounting positions.

For asphalt racing I run another set of Evader shocks with 80wt front 60 wt rear and the same white springs. Mounts all the way out on arms and all the way in on towers, fr and rr.

Jep

Originally posted by Bill
Jep, I like the look, very clean, and your attention to detail is outstanding....
Thanks Bill. FYI, I used the Autographics Fastruck Ford mini-sheet decal ( F-Style #10831 ) for all of the details. It comes with everything you see, and then some - grill, lights, net, clamps, rivets, cage bars, fuel cap, etc. Tower Hobbies sells them as well as many others. I like more of a scale look on my models.

Jep

Originally posted by ronbeck
the lambo body by hpi is for the super nitro. think it would be to big..?? and the nose is long, might hang to far over. nothing like taking a small jump with aliile speed and flipping becouse the front end digs inot the ground. :devil:

They also make the diablo body for 1:10 scale cars. You can buy the Dash rtr with the lambo body, and I'm assuming you can also buy it seperately.

Anybody tried the Losi shocks? What I don't like about the stock Evader shocks is the fact that there aren't any bleed holes in the piston and you have to bleed them by getting the cap set just so. Also like aluminum caps a lot better. Saw a few sets on nitro Losis this weekend that caught my eye.

Kitty, sounded like you're not too far from the Houston area. Some guys this weekend were telling me about a track in Cleveland. I found one in New Caney and I assume that's it. Have you ever raced there? I'm thinking about swapping motors and going there to race Stock. If you've been there, got any set up tips? Little bit of a drive, but woth it if I can find 1/10 electric racing. Also heard a rumor that we're getting 2 more tracks in the area, 1 in Pearland and 1 on the west side (around Barker Cypress and I-10).

Originally posted by cjtamu
Anybody tried the Losi shocks?

The main reason I have stayed with Losi is their shocks. Some will argue that AE shocks are smoother. That may be true if they are built and bled properly. However top loading/filling shocks are dificult to build compared to Losi.

With Losi you fill the shock with oil up to the begining of the threads. Insert the cartridge with the shock shaft out and the piston close to the cartridge. Screw the cartridge in with your fingers till it bottoms out. Then back off 1/2 turn. Now push the shaft into the shock while holding a cloth around the shock to catch the oil. Tighten the cartridge while the shaft is still in. You are done.

It takes about 30 seconds to change fluid in a Losi shock. That's why I love them.:thumbsup:

Bob T, that's what I'm talkin' about. Simple and replicable so you get the same thing every time (just like McDonald's). Which Losi shocks are you using? As far as putting AE shocks on the Evader, I've heard that the fit is not real good. The Losis and the Evader are so similar I think it would be an easy swap.

i'm using the stock evader shocks but will be considering going to the rustlers now for on road driving. i havent had the best experiences rebuilding my evader shocks.

theres been a lot of posts this weekend so i have to catch up..

Jep,
the pictures look awesome. how did you post them directly into the forum? please share. i'll look into those decal sheets now that i have 3 new bodies to paint up.

Peter,
that Porche body is such a great idea. i saw that very same body at my lhs and thought (i wish i had a street car just so i could run this body) but maybe i'll just drop it on the evader instead.

pne,
i'm trading a couple of radios for the light setups. i wouldnt be able to afford a setup like this if i had to pay for it.

decisions decisions..

i've got a new 57chevy pickup body that i was going to put on the evader as a lowrider but i think the body is too wide. i need a new body for both my Stampede and the Evader but unfortunately my lhs has a pretty good selection :confused: . the stampede will get either an old "Woody" truck body or a new Excursion. the evader i'm still pondering the 57chevy before i commit and start cutting.

q2k2
where did you get a woody body?

and locally found out that hobby town has started to carry the evader st/bx. was able to get my new front shock tower. just need a shock rebuild kit though: :( but soon to be cruzin again.:dude:

Fantacy World Toy and Hobby is my lhs down here in Tacoma. i think the Woody is a Parma body. it has wood decals for the wood doors but in past purchases i havent been real pleased with their decal sheets. the Durango body i bought had only headlights, tail lights and window masks for painting. my HPI Baja body came with an entire sheet of optional decals.

heres the woody
http://www.parmapse.com/rcitem.asp?n=10160

also, i forgot to mention that Fantacy World now carries the ST and BX. they also have a good selection of duratrax parts. the indoor track TRCR (Tacoma RC Raceway) has Zero Duratrax parts which i quickly found out after my first lap. no replacement parts.

i see your in Redmond.. alot of my friends are from that area and i lived in Kirkland for awhile. are there any good tracks up that way? i went down to green lake and drove the ST on the bmx jump over there but wasnt overly impressed.

have you heard of MaxxLand?
http://web3.foxinternet.net/kiiski/maxxland.htm

Maybe this should go in the paint thread in the general forum, but whatever. The way to get a wood effect is to spatter dark brown paint (airbrush on low pressure, toothbrush, straw, whatever). Keep it sparse, make only one pass, work fast. While it's still wet, wipe it softly with a dry rag in the direction you want the grain to go. Then back it with light brown or tan. If you want to get fancy you can play with more or less grain and wood color.

Old airbrush trick... enjoy.

heard of but never raced at maxland. hear it's nice. to race you have to call the owner. i thinks out of his back yard.

Originally posted by Q2k2
Jep, the pictures look awesome. how did you post them directly into the forum? please share...
Q2k2 - Thanks! You have to have some web space somewhere to host the pics. I put them in a folder on my personal webspace with my ISP. Then you use the IMG tag in the "vB Code" box when writing your post (you must have vB Code enabled in your forum preferences).

Jep

I apologise in advance for the length of this message. I was offline for one day and you guys went nuts hehehe

Bill! Good to see you again!

Jeff, I think you're nuts. Oh, wait. You meant about your truck ;) How did you do the two-tone on the wheels? It looks like you painted with (teal?) over some neon green dishes. The green makes it look aluminum in the pics. Nice!

Some were discussing bodies on a previous page that I missed by being offline for a day. One thing I don't like about the Dahm's bodies is the lack of overspray film. :( Oh yeah and the lack of decals.

CJ, I agree with you on the shocks. It's a royal p.i.t.a to get them bled just right. I also hate the plastic bottom caps. When I went to change the oil in the rears on mine last week, I nearly broke one of the plastic caps removing them. And if you don't get just the right amount of oil in them, it's risky bleeding them. When I did the fronts a few weeks ago, I ended up having to order a new set of caps because one stripped out while bleeding a shock (the pressure blew it right off). It's also a peeve of mine that there are two different shock kits - one has the plunger thingy in it and the other has the caps. What a rip off. Oh, and I'm just north of Austin, near Cedar Park so it's a few hours away from Houston. I'm actually closer to Big D. Maybe some weekend I can talk baby bro' into making a trip down to the Houston area. There's a great tattoo shop down in that one area in the south west part of town (forget the name of the area - been that long) and I'm feeling the itch for more ink. Maybe we can figure something out and get together for a day of bashing.

BobT, thanks for the tip on bleeding Losi shocks. Sounds like a better idea.

Peter, which Rusty shocks and T-Maxx shocks are you using? I think I know which Maxx shocks you mean if they are the ones with a much larger diametre body to them. Otherwise, the only other Maxx shocks I've seen other than stock are the blue/yellow ones. I hate mixing colours like that hehehe

Peter & Jeff, thanks to both of you for your opinions/info on shocks.

All I know is that I'd feel better with some shocks that either have aluminum caps or at least caps that don't strip when you bleed them. The threads on the stock Evader shocks are ultra fine and very short in height. Bleeding them is a major pain to get right. Maybe I need to work on my technique, but I don't feel it should be that difficult. Urf.

Q, if your LHS has the '57 body, maybe they'll let you take it out of the bag to size it up on your Evader? You did say '57 truck, right? I wouldn't mind a '57 Bel Air body on mine. Two LHSs here will let you do that. I tried some "old" truck body against my Evader and it looked great. It may have been the same..I forget. I'm pretty sure it was a Pro-Line body, though because that's what they sell the most of.

Dan, cool tip on doing wood grain! What do you think about doing the splatter part, then grabbing the body by one end while wearing a rubber glove and swinging it to make the paint run? I figure if I tried the wipe trick, I would press too hard and remove all the paint, and that the splat n' swing thing would work better for me.

I've seen the new evader frame and front brace. (over servo saver) Did they change the worst part THE BULKHEAD? I just got some replacement parts the bulkhead looks the same.

No, when you spatter the paint you only lay down little spots, not drops. Get your toothbrush wet and run your thumb across it so it spatters on the bathroom mirror, that's what I'm talking about. Spinning it up isn't going to do much for you given the size of the spots. Paint is sticky stuff. As long as you use a dry towel it'll smear properly. (A wet towel forms a sort of squeegee and either picks it all up or smudges it.) Yes, the wiping removes some paint, but that's OK, it's part of the process. If you need more grain just wait for it to dry and do it again.

It's probably a better idea to do this with the new water-based Fascolor stuff. Easier to clean up.

running the gun metal grey set #4962 is the part number come in a eight pack. there $80 on tower. my cuz and i split a pack. got tired really fast with the stock shocks. blew them hard jumping the rounded curb in front of our old house. three feet of air. the e-rusty shocks are stock plastics. need a rebuild and metal caps. if you go to big the plastic shocks flex and pop there tops.:p

Thanks for the shock info. I think I'm going to look for a set of the Losi Adam Drake or maybe Matt Francis shocks. Kitty, I had the exact same problem w/ my shocks, and I stripped the threads trying to get them tuned just so. They really are the only think on the Evader that I think just stinks. BTW, I got hold of the track in New Caney. They're open 6-9 on Friday and 12- end of races on Saturday (races start at 6:30). They say they're averaging about 40 racers a weekend. Hope to get out there in the not too distant future. Running stock and mods, but I'm going to run stock. Oh yeah, and the track is indoor, way cool. Their website is http://home.flash.net/~rmahaffy/. Look at the fundraising bash they had and you'll see Matt Francis' name in the results.

Anybody got tips for a stock motor set-up (pinion size, run stock spur, etc)? Track is short (like 90' x 50') and looks tight. Since I've taken the day off, I may run to the LHS and pick up a Reedy or P2k stock motor.

Re: Shock Discussion
Regarding the discussion of rebuilding evader shocks: the Losi cartridges have a slot running up the threads which makes them easier to bleed. Because of the slot, they thread on and bleed easily until just the last few millimeters, and by that point there is plenty of thread engaged so they are less likely to strip.

Look at the picture I attached and you can see the slot in the Losi cartridge - I am going to try to carefully cut a slot with my Dremel cutting disk when I rebuild my Evader shocks to see if it helps. Let me know if anyone else tries this.

Jep

Kitty,
i have the 57 Chevy pickup body at home and i've lined it up but without cutting the wheel wells out i wont know for sure. its THAT close. i'm hesitant to put the time into painting it up only to find out that it rubs.. got some new street wheels and tires that should be here today. i'm going to wait until i put them on before i make a decision. thinking of the New Beetle body for street cars after seeing the porche setup.

There's no such thing as "Drake shocks" or "Francis Shocks". They're Losi shocks upgraded with threaded bodies and hardcoated shafts. You won't find kits, or at least I haven't. The best thing they sell as a set are the hardbody shocks, at ~$27/pr. You want the "1.2" for the rear and "0.9" for the front. The number refers to the travel...

Been shopping... the XXXT RTR is going to sell for almost $100 more than the Evader ST RTR.

So where's the extra money go?

It'll have a better radio, a JR XR2I that's much more capable than the analog Futaba system the Evader comes with. I suspect the ESC and motor are a bit better also.

It'll come with real tires, silver compound Reptiles and Directionals. Reptiles really only work on soil tracks but the Directionals hook up almost everywhere but groove tracks.

It will *not* have threaded shocks, but they are hardbodies.

You can bet the transmission is better.

It's built with US-standard hardware. That's worth $10 to me... :-D

Originally posted by cjtamu
Bob T, that's what I'm talkin' about. Simple and replicable so you get the same thing every time (just like McDonald's). Which Losi shocks are you using? As far as putting AE shocks on the Evader, I've heard that the fit is not real good. The Losis and the Evader are so similar I think it would be an easy swap.

I believe the XXT size shocks would best fit the Evader. Threaded shock bodies are nice but at $10 per shock body the stock hardened aluminum suits me just fine.

To mount my shocks to the shock tower I use a combo of 3/4 inch 4-40 screws, nuts, locknuts, washer and nitro fuel tubeing. It basicly creates a miniture rubber bushing connection that keeps the shock mounting hole from wareing out and removes any slop in the mounting.

1. Insert the ¾” 4-40 screw through the desired shock tower hole.

2. Secure the screw with a 4-40 nut or two. Double-nutting keeps the screw tight but also spaces the shock top out from the tower.

3. Slide a small length of fuel tubing over the screw. For Losi shocks I use a length twice the thickness of the shock mounting hole’s depth.

4. Mount the shock over the fuel tubing.

5. Add a washer at least as large as the shock’s mounting hole over the screw.

6. Secure the assembly with a 4-40 locknut. Tighten the locknut just enough to compress the fuel tubing to take up any void in the shock mounting hole. You want the shock to swing easily on this mount and not interfere with the suspension movement.

This method has kept my shock mounting holes from wallowing out due to dirt grinding between the bushing and the shock. This in tern keeps the suspension more consistant.

Cool trick, Bob T. I looked on evilbay for some Losi shocks, but nothing that fit the bill. May have to travel to the LHS. After another frustrating day tuning on my nitro buggy, I'm about ready to sell it and sink all my time and effort back into the Evader.