Originally posted by La. Dano
Hello I'm new to rc trucks and I bought the evader Tues. I stripped the ball studs out of the rear and again on the tie rod tonight. Any advise to repair the threads would be helpful. Also what type of plastic is the chassis made of. Thanx

Depends on how badly stripped they are. If they are still "snug" , but just keep turning when bottomed out, then put some low or medium hold Loc-Tite thread locker on the threads, and this time just barely snug them up - this goes for all screws going into plastic, just snug them up lightly till they are in all the way, and no more.

If you can totally pull them out of the hole, then you will have to fill the hole and re-tap it.

thanx for the info I'll have to try some locktite.

I got another problem now though, I cleaned the diff and the spring and nut will not go in the left side outdrive deep enough for the axle to go in all the way. Also is it supposed to fell gritty? Just doesn't feel right.

Originally posted by La. Dano
I got another problem now though, I cleaned the diff and the spring and nut will not go in the left side outdrive deep enough for the axle to go in all the way. Also is it supposed to fell gritty? Just doesn't feel right.

Make sure the plastic nut (part 22 in the attached pic) has the ears turned the right way, other wise the nut won't go on as far.

No - it should not feel too gritty. Did you tear it all the way down and get everything clean? (That means bearings, rings, gears, thrust washers and balls, diff balls, etc.) Also, did you use Associated diff lube before re-assembly?

I put it back together following the diagram with lossi lube (4 times) with the same effect when I put the axle in it won't go far enough to snap the camber link on. Its eating my lunch for one who's very mechanicaly inclined.

Hey smojoe, also try the v-maxx rocket packs. They have a emaxx combo thing that has two 2400 mah batteries for about $40-50. They should be better than the regulars because they have had the v-maxx process (can't remember what it does, go to the team orion web sight.)
JB

La.Dano - You have me stumped. I just had my diff out last night and re-built it. I did notice, the ears on the plastic nut do not bottom out all the way in the left outdrive when fully tightened and spring fully compressed, there is maybe a tenth of an inch from the ears to the bottom of the outdrive slots.

The left and right outdrives are different on mine (even though the exploded diagram does not show this well). The left one (I think) has the protrusion that the diff gear bearings slip over. Did you get the left and right outdrives flipped around ?(I don't know if it makes a difference).

You do have to tighten the diff pretty good to get the spring fully compressed - are you sure you are cranking it all the way? (then of course back of just 1/8 turn).

Thanx again jep I finally figured it out last night, I was using the slipper spring which is the same size just alot stiffer. The slipper spring will not compress enough, my bad. I did split 2 of the 1/16 bearings in the prosses had it pretty tight to do that. Is anyone useing the white soffter springs? how are they? My truck is real lose on the local track.

Hey jep I just ordered your braces, and set up with paypal but on your page it has a black background I can't read everthing. How much do I send total and were to?

Dano,

Yep, I got the order, THANKS! :thumbsup: - I just sent you your total, check your email. Glad you got the Diff figured out.

Our track is new and still pretty bumpy. I use and like the white springs a lot - give em a try.

JB-
thats 25 bucks for a 2400 pack! wut a deal!! skip all the aluminum hop-ups, im getting that. :thumbsup: oh, have u made ur mind up on the transmitter yet? im savin up for a JR racing one. i just dont know if i want the 2 channel or the 3. if i ever get the e-maxx, i might as well get the 3. besides, its just like 25 bucks more. i hope.

anyone who cares-
what weight shock oil and what type of springs are you using? :confused: im thinking about replacing both and am looking for some tips.

Originally posted by smojoe
JB-
thats 25 bucks for a 2400 pack! wut a deal!! <snip>

Hi Smojoe and JB - keep in mind you usually get what you pay for. The Orion 2400 packs you are referring to are not Sanyo cells, and there has been some discussion on the newsgroup: rec.models.rc.land about them. Apparently they don't work much better than a good Sanyo 1500mAhr pack as far as punch and runtime :( I would love to hear from anyone who has used these in an off-road truck.

Originally posted by smojoe
what weight shock oil and springs...<snip>

Hey smojoe,

This would be a good move. The Evader is a bit too bouncey out of the box. I use 30 or 35 weight oil and the Duratrax white (soft) springs. I experimented with some Losi XXT springs and spacers, but could never get it quite dialed in, I always go back to the Duratrax white springs.

I am using the white springs all around. 25 weight oil in the front, 30 weight in the rear.

brands, brands, brands........... what brand of shock oil do you recommend or that you know is good or is there only one; i dont know? oh, and jep, wut kind of battery would you recommend for a basher looking for runtime?

JB-
the rocket packs you were talking about, do they sell those on tower? i dont really care about quality, but if its 2400mAH or whatever for like 20 bucks, thats o.k. with me.
jep-
have you heard anything good or bad about the power-maxx 2400 mAh battery from Peak Performance? im lookin for batteries, so im lookin at everything and came along this.

I generally use Associated shock oils.

Thanx again jeff got it figured out and its on your way, just send it to Baton Rouge not New Orleans. We just moved here and I guess my change of address hasn't got there yet. by the way I ripped the teeth off the differential gear. I got 2 sets of every thing at hobby shop rebuilt and better now than out of the box. I drilled through the rear bulk head and resessed blind nuts for the ball studs(1/2" was just right. Love the dremeal. Thanx again Jeff!

hankster-
Associated sells those in 2 oz. bottles. how many would i need to, say, refill the two rear shocks?:confused:

The rocket packs work great for me. As jep_rc mentioned, they are not race quality cells, but more of a basher battery pack. As of right now, I have no where to race in organized races, so they work fine for me. This summer, I plan on racing at Mile Square Park's (I live in California) track. For that I might by some better 2400s, or I may stick with rocket packs; I like the performance, especially for the price. As with the brand and weight of shock oil, I use losi 30wt in the rear and 35wt in the frone. I use white springs for all of the shocks.
As for the transmitter,I'm thinking about a hitec lynx 3d, if I get a t-or e-maxx.
JB

"This summer, I plan on racing at Mile Square Park's (I live in California) track. "

what city is this in? i live in CA also and am looking for a track to race at

smojoe - a bottle will let you redo your shocks about 6 times I would guess.

Originally posted by smojoe
"This summer, I plan on racing at Mile Square Park's (I live in California) track. "

what city is this in? i live in CA also and am looking for a track to race at

Mile Square Park is in Fountain Valley. I think they have a track there; at least they did a few years ago. I went there to launch my model rocket and I saw a track there. This was a few years ago and it may not be there still. When I go, I'll talk about my experience.

Smojoe, what part of CA do you live in? If you live in or close to Anaheim, there's a small track out by the Arrowhead Pond. It's not an organized track, and it's pretty small, but it has a nice layout. I'm thinking of getting together with some of my friends and adding to it. I'll try to post pictures soon.
JB

smojoe -

I have heard the power-maxx packs are the same cells as in the Orion twin pack 2400's - the complaint was that they lost their punch right away in the run and then you had to finish your run with a weak pack. Please understand, I am passing on second hand info here - from stuff I read on Usenet - I do not own any of these packs. JB has used them, so take his advice, and give them a try and let us know what you think.

For bashing I like the Trinity AmpMaxII packs - I got these at Tower for $14.00 each. Like I said before, I build my own 2400 mahr packs from Sanyo 2400SCR cells, so I don't have a recommendation here, other than get packs made from SANYO 2400SCR, or SANYO RC-2400 cells, and don't bother with matched packs, to me they are not worth the added cost, unless you are very serious about racing.

For Shock Oil - I use Associated 30 and 35wt - but I can't imagine brand makes any difference in shock oil, buy what's cheapest ??!!

The pack does go weak near the end of the run, but that's maybe in the last minute or two. I'm sure all packs lose punch after a few minutes. For the price, they're great, and I run a 12t p-94 with energy robbing tamiya plugs. Yes, sanyo cells would have better quality, and I think I'll pick some up soon.
Jep_rc, about how much does a an unassembled 6 cell pack of sanyos cost? If It's under $50 I'll try it, preferably 1700-2400 mah, but if it's low enough in price I'll try 1400 or 1500 mah.
JB

Forgot one detail. I am talking about the standard rocket packs, not the v-maxx ones.
BTW Jep, the picture you have under your name, is that evader yours or is that a picture off the net.

It appears that Duratrax has closed down their warranty support Quick order program. It was a great program, but was probably being abused. Now I have to send all my parts to Hobby services and wait a month to get them back. Does anybody know if this is true? The link now takes you to somewhere else on Duratrax's web site, and their is no more mention of the express parts Warranty program.

JB - I am not too sure what the best retail price on the SANYO Cells is - I get cells through my work at wholesale prices, and sometimes free samples from our vendors when I beg and plead.

Regarding the picture (avatar) - yes, this is my Evader, I sent the small pic to Hankster, and he put it in the avatar selection list for me (Thanks Hankster!)

Philip37 - Yes, I am afraid it is true, the Duratrax stress-tech replacement webpage is gone. It's still not a bad warranty anyway.

For those of you interested in building your own packs I have found a web site.

http://www.batterystation.com/nicads.htm

I ordered cells from them last week (Monday) and got them Friday. The have Sanyo RC2400's for $6 and RC-3000H's for $7 each. They charged me $6.50 for UPS ground delivery.

Hope this helps you pack builders.:thumbsup:

Originally posted by BobT
For those of you interested in building your own packs I have found a web site. http://www.batterystation.com/nicads.htm<snip>
BobT - Thanks for the tip. Have you tried the SANYO "CP-2400SCR" cells from BatteryStation? These are the cells I have been using, and am very happy with them. They are 2 bucks cheaper than the RC-2400 ! They barely get warm taking a 4.5amp charge, and run-times have been excellent for me. The spec sheets on these are virtually identical (4.5 milliOhm versus 3.5 milliOhm internal R is only diff.).
I noticed on their volume pricing page they are selling the CP-2400SCR's for $3.00 each in 300+ quantities - if only we HobbyTalkers could pool our needs and make a bulk purchase ;)

Jep

jep_rc,

No I have not tried those cells. They sound interesting. How long have you been using them? Have you had any cells go bad?:dude:

philip-
i personally got mine back in about a week. it really depends where you live.

JB-
i live near stockton. it takes me about an hour and some more to get to the closest track in sacramento, and am looking for something new.

all yall-
whats the ratio of the transmission? i found this cool thing at http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/cars/calculator.asp and need the ratio to know how fast my car goes.

Do you know if its possible to take apart a stick pack and put it together as if the cells came loose?
My friend just got an rc10t3 RTR, and (after new tires) he would like to by a new motor. What would you reccommend for $30 or less? I'm thinking of maybe a rush or speedgems, or maybe a stock motor. Thanks!
JB

Originally posted by BobT
jep_rc,
No I have not tried those cells. They sound interesting. How long have you been using them? Have you had any cells go bad?:dude:

BobT - I have only put about 4 runs on my first pack, and it got better each run. The Sanyo cell part number is CP-2400SCR. They are spec'd as high capacity fast charge cells. I will keep you posted on how they perform in the long run.
Jep

Does anybody know if a 550 (emaxx)sized motor will work in an evader?
BTW, Jep, cool evader. What upgrades does it have?
JB

Originally posted by JB_The_Evader
BTW, Jep, cool evader. What upgrades does it have?

Thanks JB! - It has a Pro-line XXT body (my first paint job - Lego themed), Jep-R/C aluminum front pin brace set (of course), homemade aluminum servo brace, XXT disc wheels, Losi Step-Pins on rear, Losi Directionals front (it now has Pro-Line Bow-ties and Edge tires), and Duratrax white springs (not shown in pic). (I've attached a bigger pic here).
Jep

Great looking truck Jeff I got the losi xxt wheels on mine with a little rubbing problem, gonna shim them out somehow. Got any suggestions? I went to the track tonite and burned the commutator up so I bought a orion core. It maybe a little more torqey. I'm going to start a new paint job next week got any tips on that, see ya'll later for now.

Originally posted by jep_rc


Jep-R/C aluminum front pin brace set (of course)

set??? i thought there was only one? i looked all over the front end and couldent find the second one. does it even have a second because i also looked in the building instructions and couldent find it either, or is it sort of a modification?

Yep you can sell all but say one of your 26 front bulkheads that you have in stock. There is finally an improvement to the glass front end of the Evader. It's the Jep RC Front Pin Brace Set. I got two sets for my Evaders recently and don't know what I am going to do with the case of each, front bulkheads and front (top) braces that I bought.

Smojoe - there are actually two pieces to my pin brace upgrade. One replaces the stock front brace, and the other piece goes across the back end of the pins - a much better design if I do say so myself. I will attach a picture to explain.

see also: http://www.geocities.com/jep_rc/photos101.html

Philip37 - Thanks for the good words.

La. Dano - Doing your first paint job is a lot of fun, but read everything you can. There are good articles all over the web. A few important points 1) wash the inside of the body with dish soap and warm water. 2) Apply window masks, and scuff the entire inside of body with steel wool (it should be hazy - don't worry, it will look shiny and clear when the paint is applied). 3) paint the inside in many very light coats, and back with white, or silver. There are a lot of other pointers like warming the can, using a hair dryer between coats, etc. Anyone got good links????

Jep

La. Dano - about the XXT wheels rubbing. I had the same problem. Just take some sandpaper or a dremel tool and knock a little off the inside edge of the rim. Do this uniformly around the circumference so as not to un-balance the wheel (the rims are pretty light anyway, so don't worry too much about eveness).

Here are a couple of links on painting
http://www.pro-lineracing.com/howtotips/painting.html
http://www.rccentral.com/article.asp?ATCL_ID=35

Jep

Jep-
you seem like sort of a hard-core racer, so can you give me any tips on how to clean/ make my motor run better (i dont really want to ask big jim because it seems he allready has enough on his hands)?

Smojoe...I know you asked Jep but figured I'd give my 2 cents worth. On Jim's website there is a good article about cleaning motors that I printed out some time ago and found very useful. Use the link on RCV to get to it....it may even be on the RCV FAQ section. Lysol Basin Tub and Tile Cleaner works GREAT for getting the motor cleaned up when you tear it apart. Also make sure that you use some sort of comm lube on the brushes before each run (preferable Tribo from Big Jim). Other than that, from what I have read, make sure you get your comm trued if/when you replace your brushes and make sure you keep the bearings/bushings lubed too and you should be in good shape. If you are looking to do racing then I would recommend getting the black book for sure. Hope this helps!!

Jep, I got my pin brace set, I've never broken the bulkhead yet but hopefully this will prevent it from ever happening!! Thanks! (even though you went and lowered your price right after the auction;)

Smoejoe - I agree with Bruce, use the TeamRCV and BigJim as a reference. Here is a link to an article by Hankster:
http://www.teamrcv.com/article.php?sid=60

Bruce - Sorry about the price adjustments, I have been trying to get interest up and keep the product moving. Please check your email for more discussion on this. Thanks!

Jep

Just wanted to say that I am completely amazed by the outstanding gesture made by jep-rc. To all of you Evader owners out there...don't hesitate to get a set of these braces. I saw many people post that they would be willing to spend $12-$15 on the brace sets and now he is practically giving them away. As someone who has only been involved in RC for less than a year, I am amazed that there are so many people who are so willing to do good things in this hobby just to help other out. I was merely joking in my last post when I mentioned the price change (I thought I got a great deal at $7.99) and I quickly received an apology for the change and a refund of the difference...I refunded him the difference because I felt the terms of the origional auction were more than fair. This is why I am so happy to be part of this hobby. Thanks again Jep!!

Bruce
I see your in Minnesota, where do you race? We raced at Eagan Hobby zone a couple times this year but the tracks too easy. There going to change it. We also built are own see (new track in MN) We are going to race at Brooklyn park sometime.

Hey 22, I actually haven't gotten to take my truck out to race yet...I have a wife and two kids and house that have been chewing up most of my free time lol. I expect I will be racing in Brooklyn Park once I do get some more free time. I have heard some good things about the track there. I have to make sure I have a good supply of spare parts before I start to race though since it seems like there aren't a lot of hobby shops that carry much for replacement parts for the Evader. Your track looks pretty cool, nice work!!

Jeff thanx for the links put them in favs for now sounds like some good info. What do you think about the orion(core)? A guy at the track said it was a good one. Gonna do some tips out of the black book to squeeze out all of it. Hopefully the braces will be in tomorrow I'll be back at the track then. You can check it out at (REDSTICKRACEWAY.com) sorry I don't know how to put the link in like ya'll do. later.

Bruce - thanks for the kind words and the "plug" - I know what you mean about the wife/kids/house thing. Part of my strategy was to buy my son (8 yr old) an Evader right away and get him into racing with me, that way mom views it as a father/son bonding sort of thing, and at least the *time* spent on the hobby is easier to come by (the $ is another issue) ;)

Dano - I know nothing about the Orion core. As far as motors go I have heard nothing but good comments about the Speed Gems series and will get one of these when I am ready to upgrade (but not before I get my tranny working more reliably). Your local track looks awesome, I am totally jealous :p I live in South Dakota, where the warm months come too few and too far apart, I wish we had an indoor off-road track.

Jep