ha ha.. the red eyes would be the key.

my buddy and i had talked about strapping a stuffed animal to the evader and running it out in the street a couple blocks in front of cars. far enough not to put anyone in danger but close enough for them to think "WTF is THAT???"

have yet to try it tho.

:devil:

If you're in WA, they might think it's a baby Sasquatch...

:lol:

No kidding.. and the Sonics mascot is a Squatch so i bet i could find a stuffed smaller version at a game. oh the ideas just keep'on rolling..

Geez, I go out of town for a day and this thread expands by two pages. And that's without my long diatribes heh

E-Killer - Welcome to our madness! I'm surprised that your list didn't include front suspension arms. You must have smacked that curb straight on. Q2k2 mentioned the Stress-Tech warranty. I now can vouch for it, as today I received my package in the mail. The only problem was that I sent in two broken bulkheads and received one. Ugh. Another call to make tomorrow. Be happy that you got your stuff back so quickly. I included a copy of my original invoice and a letter listing everything I was returning, listed by number of each little baggie I put things in. You'd think they would be grateful that I didn't just toss it all in a box!

You mentioned dealing with Sandy Kiest at Hobbico. Did you mean Hobby Services? I know they're all basically the same place now, but they all have different phone numbers.

Comm sticks... forget the overpriced ones at hobby shops. Go to your local Rat Shack and pick up a PC board cleaning stick. They are the same ones that a certain "RC specialist" company sells, only cheaper.

Q - How the heck did you manage to lose a ball end? Do you mean a ball cup or the ball stud itself? That's one reason I do all my work on an old towel now. Parts don't mysteriously roll away.

If you find a good deal on a Super Rooster, please let me know. I'm seriously considering getting one.

Bill - uh ohhhh! Lemme guess...you're putting a brushless in the Pede now? You scare me sometimes hehehe

p.n.e. - I use my comm stick (PC board cleaner) on my brushes and use a Q-tip as well. Mine gets pretty dark, but I keep a paper towel handy to clean the tip. My comm stick has some pretty stiff fibres. I think they probably are fibreglass. Which motor are you getting crud on? It sounds like you're running some high silver content brushes in it. Those wear out faster and wear the comm faster too.

Don't worry about me soldering cells the wrong way. When I go side-by-side on mine, I'll be using my multimeter to be sure I line them up correctly. I don't know if they make shrink wrap wide enough to re-shrink them when you do them that way. I'll have to ask the guy at my LHS about that one. There's a great guide to the conversion on the Traxxas site.

About the LED guy - it's gotta be the same guy. He has posted on every forum I view. I can understand why they deleted his threads because it really does appear that he's doing it commercially now and pimping a commercial operation is a no-no.

BobT - you just gave me a sneaky idea for next Halloween. How about an RC that looks like a rat with flashing red eyes? ;)

Kitty,

To answer your first question: I am amazed that the suspension arms managed to come out of the ordeal unscaved. Yes, I hit the curb square and about 1/2 inch off the ground. :eek: Next, your right Sandy Kiest is with Hobby Service Center actually Product Support and all my communication with her has been via email. Thanks for the info on the PC board cleaning stick, I'll give it a try. :thumbsup:

ok ok, so it was a ball stud.. not a ball end.

sucks tho, the evader now has rebuilt shocks, new hub carriers both front and back, adjusted the suspention slightly and a fresh comm ready to rock'n roll. but that one stud is MIA. oh well.. lhs here i come.


i'll let you know if i find a good deal on a Super Rooster. please let me know if you find something sooner than i.

My latest creation..

Q

Nice job on the auto Q.

And nice photo too!!

he's right, the photo looks professional. A bit plain for my tastes but looks very clean and neat. very nicely done! it will look even more awesome with lights (I'm assuming thats the body you're mounting on?)

kitty i went to radio shack and they didnt know what the heck i was talkin about when i asked them for a pen to clean circut boards with. the guy ended up handing me a soldering iron :mad: you're right tho, hobby stores do overcharge. theres no way this little bit of fiberglass is worth 10 bux :(

Hey guys!

Q - Please tell me that the pic of the Durango Evader isn't a very spiffy computer rendering. It looks too clean heh The body looks a bit wide for the chassis and makes me think the suspension arms would smack it all the time. I also noted that the body mount holes don't have body mounts sticking up through them. The ones on the front bonnet (hood) are set quite a bit further back. If you made custom mounts for the body, please share!

p.n.e. - Try here (http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CTLG%5F005%5F012%5F000%5F000&product%5Fid=64%2D4341) for the "comm pen" at Rat Shack. If that doesn't work, here's the info: Pen-Style Contact Cleaner $4.99 Cat.#: 64-4341 Model: 64-4341. That's the one I've been using. The tip isn't long enough to reach the comm on my GM3 Pro, but I see that as good because if it were long enough, it probably would flex too much. It's great for scrubbing brush faces, though. I brush mine with the pen then use Q-tips to help remove the excess schmutz and dab the comm stick on a paper towel to get the black residue off it. To "activate" it, you press the tip down on a surface a few times - kinda like some paint pens. I use a Q-tip to catch any excess, then use it on the comm. I just stick the Q-tip in the side of the endbell that has a square opening and shove it down against the comm and turn the motor by hand. Sometimes I do that with up to three Q-tips to be sure and get all the black stuff off and make the comm all shiny again.

Bill - I mentioned in one of the other threads that I'd comment on the track nearby in this thread. I haven't been to that track yet. We were planning on going this week, but for about the past month, we've had rain about 60-75% of the time. It does look like a great track, though, and pretty darned big at that.

Which reminds me...when guys are racing and there are, say, 10 guys on the track, how do they keep on different channels? I noticed that both Duratrax and Traxxas sell crystal sets in only six channels.

Dan and Bill - you guys have mentioned metal-gear servos a bit lately. I talked to the guy who runs (owns?) the LHS nearest me yesterday about steering servos. He suggested avoiding the all-metal gear ones because the rebuild kits are so expensive. I'll have to look at them on Tower again because I don't recall the rebuild kits being anywhere near the $60 the LHS guy said. I'm pretty sure I've nuked a few notches in my servo, as last night I kept having to readjust my steering and sometimes my truck would not cooperate on steering. Sometimes it would have a bit of a delay and a few times it just took off either left or right while I was driving straight. Luckily, baby bro' bought a new servo for his E-Maxx yesterday so he said I could borrow his. It's rated fairly high on the torque/speed scale so I'm all for giving it a go.

Shock oil and spring combinations... According to a lot of guys and in Jerrit's FAQ, it's suggested/recommended to use 30wt shock oil and white springs on the Evader. I bought the above and then a shock rebuild kit because the first time on one shock, the threads on the bottom cap stripped out on me. Cheap crap heh. Anyway, when we were bashing last night, in addition to my servo problems, I noticed that my truck flipped over way easier than it used to. When I was assembling the shocks, the white springs seemed a bit tighter/stronger than the yellow ones did and I'm wondering what the heck is going on. A few times, when my truck flipped, I noticed that it wasn't diving into turns as much as it used to. Any thoughts/ideas on what may be going on?

Last, but not least... I tried out the new wheel/tire combination last night. Not even half a battery pack in, I decided to pit stop and swap back to my HPI wheels with the Dirt Hawgs on them. The HPI wheels are wide offset and I like the combination better, so the new RPM Talonz and Road Hawg II set were hardly touched. So little, in fact, that the excess rubber from moulding didn't even begin to wear. So here I am with a set of Talonz and street tires that won't be going back on my truck. Heck, I even took a little material off the inner side of the fronts so that they'd clear the knuckle arms. If anyone wants them, please let me know and we'll figure something out. I thought I'd put this here to give anyone here a chance at them before I posted in the sale/trade area.

kitty, you wouldnt have to be rebuilding a metal gear servo much would you? those are built pretty solid. My servo's been doing what your's has since i got it :( Emaxx servos are strong? i thought they didnt have enough power to turn the wheels while the truck was standing still.

this 9x2 rocks! i was jumping almost my entire driveway with only the curb :D i think i've got a good batch of plastic too, one jump the nose dug in and i did about 8 flips on the ground..smack smack smack, all that i lost was a body clip.:) very good bash today, but the 1800 pack just doesnt have enough power for the 9x2. 2400 i could do burnouts with the 20 tooth pinion gearing. anyways, nuff blabin for now, l8er all.

The whole point of the metal gear servo is to not have a need for a rebuild kit. Being as you can get a Hitec 645MG for $40, your guy at the hobby store is blowing smoke.

The Evader radios are on 27 Mhz, which has six channels, but you'll find that most people are running on 75 Mhz, which has a couple dozen. You usually want to have one or two other sets of crystals in your pit box in cas there's a conflict.

Rolling - the Evader is an offroad race truck and is therefore set up to roll a lot in turns. (lecture on offroad traction and camber links deferred...) The softer white springs only make it more so. Usually you run out of traction and end up sliding. But on the pavement you have a lot more traction and it can roll too far and go over. There's a couple things you can do; the easiest is to put the stiffer springs back on. The lack of diving into turns is the heavier oil. Ultimately it ends up rolling the same amount but the heavy oil slows the roll down and makes the vehicle a lot less twitchy.

Hi Kitty

As always Dan has given you the best answeres. But I did want to add my $.02. First your LHS guy is useing smoke as well as blowing it. That must have been the cost of the new servo not the rebuild kit. Check out Servocity on the net, they sell good servos at reasonable prices and the shipping is free. And Dan's point about not needing to rebuild them is very true and if the Evader servo saver is maintained properly you should not need to worry about itmuch at all.

Shocks, springs and oil... If I remember right it was suggested that you run +5 oil in the rears. If you have 30 in the fts. then use 35 in the rears. Also have you adjusted your shock position? Inside holes high and outside holes on the arms.

Yes please, let me know about the track when you get a chance, thanks.

One last thing, I've had a problem determining Evader responces to adjustments, modifications, and upgrades. The only way for me to determin how the change has effected the truck is to make one change at a time. I'd get my new stuff in the mail and put it all on and then I would try to figure out which change made this or that different. With so many variables I got lost. By doing one thing at a time I have a better chance of seeing its + - effects on the ST.

p.n.e. - good point about not having to rebuild a metal gear servo very often if at all. I looked at the MG645 on Tower and looked up the rebuild kit and it wasn't very expensive, so I have no idea what the LHS guy was talking about it being like $60 just to rebuild.
<edit>
Forgot to answer your question about the Maxx servo. I checked the specs on it and it should do okay at least for now. I can't look up the specs on the existing servo, as there are no markings on the "top" of it and neither Tower nor Duratrax say squat about what came with it.
</edit>

You were doing burnouts with a 9x2 in an Evader?? Did you tweak the diff really tight and snug down the slipper or what? That reminds me, I need to take my slipper apart again. It was "grunting" at me and slipping the other night and it was as tight as I could get it. I bought a spare set of pads on my last order from Tower, but I just got through reading a post in the "slipper problems" thread about Duratrax releasing another slipper. Ugh.

Dan - I agree. I think he was blowing smoke and it wasn't out of his mouth either. Just something about the guy doesn't set well with me. Oddly enough, the nicest LHS guys around here are at the Hobbytown down south - about a 30-45 minute drive, but it's worth it. The guys at the HT north are jerks and haven't a clue about RC stuff.

Crystals...I have a spare set just for that reason. Baby bro's buddy has an E-Maxx that's on the same frequency as I am, which is why I bought an extra set.

Bill - LOL! Even their price on the 645 wasn't a whole lot more than Tower's so I don't get it. Maybe he was smoking something heh Please run that shock placement bit by me again. I'm not sure I fully understand what you said.

Thought I'd save this bit for last. Colour me blonde, guys. Late last night, I was thinking about the shock springs and had a thought. I looked in one of my growing boxes of parts and lo and behold, the springs I hadn't put on yet were for the front - meaning that I put the rear ones on the front. Boy, did I feel really dumb! I have to take the front end of the truck apart again this week to check and possibly replace the servo so I'll swap the springs out for the correct ones. DOH!

ha! dont feel bad, they are both are white and if you didnt tell me the front and rear were different i wouldnt know either. yes i could do burntouts, with stock gearing too :eek: a bit surprised myself..not as good as the ones with the stock motor but i could still do em, the slipper wasnt locked down either, guess it was a good charge on the battery huh? well i took apart the tranny after all that running outside with stock gearing, when turning at high speed the 9 turn didnt have enough low end to push the car thru the turn, so it spun around and rolled backwards. everything looks fine, altho there is a bit of wear in the idler, a kind of U worn down the middle when you look at it with the teeth going =, its very faint, barely noticable.

Hi Kitty:

It was either Jep (remember him) or Hank that said setting up the shocks this way would give you better handeling. Guys, please correct me if I'm wrong.

Set the shocks up so the top of the shock is on the inside hole on the shock towers. And set the bottom of the shock on the outside hole on the sup. arms.

What Bill describes is the absolute lightest spring setting you can have on the Evader without using some other brand of spring. Losi springs should fit, but I'm not sure as to rate, especially with the rear springs being so long. It'd be easier if Duratrax would tell us what their spring rates are.

If it's as close to the XXT as everyone says, pinks all around should be a good starting point, and reds in the pit box if you need to subtract traction at one end or the other. Remember to reset the shock collars to get the correct ride height.

Morning yaw'll,

Kitty, no worries on the springs, i'm sure we've all done something similar but we're guys and very rarely admit to our mistakes :D

about the medal gears my $.02 say the guy was an idiot. i bought my 645MG about 2-3 months ago and it works like a dream. i highly recomend it.

p.n.e.
9x2 = i'm jealous

thanks for the nice comments on the Durango Evader. the body is just sitting on the Evader chassis. just a photo op before i sent the body back for a replacement. it looks like it would be a close fit. the fenderwells have been trimed to fit a Stampede and i think in sharp turn sit might rub a little but not much. i must admit the pic was doctored a little. i'm a Photoshop Junky.

Q

oh.. and comm sticks at my lhs are only $3.00

dunno how anyone could be charging $10.00 for one. i thought $3 was pretty reasonable though.

Q

that is 10 canadian, sorry.

Bill - gotcha now! In other words, make 'em lean inwards more. I was reading a thread in another forum recently about setting up shocks that way for street. They were saying that it'll lower the stance and have a little less bounce, but improving cornering. It doesn't take much to set it up like that so I think I'll try it. And, of course, put the right springs on the right end of the truck this time heh

Dan - no kidding about wishing Duratrax would tell us what their spring rates are. I'm glad you mentioned the pink ones. I spotted a set of those at my LHS the other day and wished I knew what the heck the spring rate was for the Duratrax white ones. I probably will just stay with the Duratrax ones I have for now because I'm going to buy a set of those nifty shock covers. Then it doesn't matter what colour the springs are ;)

Q - I could tell you photochopped the image. The drop shadows as a major giveaway hehehe Why did you send it back? I am guessing you did so to avoid cutting into the body and ruining the lines.

What kind of comm stick did you find at your LHS for only three bucks?! I'm seriously jealous. Does it have a longer tip? More info, please! I'd love to find something like that, especially if it has a longer tip and even more so if it's beveled like the one I have. It sure scrubs brush heads well.

The Orion comm sticks at our track store are $6 and come in two different grits for cleaning and polishing. The RaceTech one is about $2 and uses the same refills as the Trinity.

Q2k2 - thanks :D the 9 turn is fast but it sucks batteries like a vacuum!maybe 5 minutes at most with the 2400 pack lol. the max speed with a 20 tooth pinion on a long speed pass was ok. and just that. it wasnt really jaw dropping :eek: kind of fast. when i gear down i better be able to burn some rubber or wheelie, otherwise i'd be frankly a bit dissapointed. maybe i should have gone with brushless? either way i've made up my mind, i'm gonna start saving for a new tmaxx and hopefully get it for xmas!:roll:

Go brushless....

More and more options coming on the market. They are very fast, insanely jaw dropping fast, and no maintenance.

On Sunday I put a 3000 batt in it, ran strong for 8.5 mins.

It's so strong I have a very hard time controlling it.

And the Evader keeps hanging in there.:eek:

Later All

20 tooth pinion? Holy cow. You ought to be in the 15-16 range. The overall gear ratio ought to be about 14:1. Then get the comm trued and put in new brushes. It'll be toe-curlingly fast down low and the top speed will probably also improve.

Low-wind motors make a lot of power because fewer winds have less resistance. At the same time, fewer winds make a weaker magnetic field and therefore less torque. So the power manifests itself as RPM. You have to gear them waaaay down compared to a torquey stock motor. Right now you're behind the curve on the torque and not really seeing the motor's capabilities.

Incidentally, it looks to me like the kit motor comes under-geared by three or four pinion teeth... probably to make the truck seem fast at low speed and then top out relatively low to keep warranty claims down. :D I'm not responsible if you gear up and cook it however...

Hey Dan,
so if i'm running a 20tooth pinion on my evader with the stock spur and a 17T Double.. were am i on the curve?

Kitty,
the drop shadows on the pic are actually quite real. i have a make'shift photo area at work where i shoot digital pictures of products for catalogs and marketing materials. all i did was wash out the background and airbrush out a few scratches.

as for why i'm sending it back. there was some wrinkles in the plastic from heat i imagine. i had to trim an extra inch all the way around the bottom to remove the bad areas and i wasnt happy with how it looked afterwards. so i wrote Parma International several emails and they are sending me two bodies as compensation. another Durango and also a 57 Chevy Pickup.

i've only seen one comm stick and its the one that i bought so its hard to say if its the 'long one'. it has the flat area on one end and the round on the other. it worked great for me and it was less than $5.

Bill,
you and your brushless.. :rolleyes:

P.n.e.
Tmaxx? why not an Emaxx?
you switching teams?

Speaking of brushless...

Q... Awhile back, when I was complaining about motor maintenance and the outstanding performance of the brushless, you made a comment that I've been meaning to address.

You said something like "think about it" and "if the ESC would handle it" that I should go for it.

When you switch to a brushless motor you also need to replace your ESC with a "matched" controller. In other words, when you buy a motor you also by the controller which replaces your ESC.

This means that you now have an extra ESC for another car or truck. Hay, I just saved more money.

For low-wind mods the usual rule says the pinion should be a certain number over the wind. For the Evader, with its low-ratio transmission, it's about 8 over. The rule is good up to 14 turns. Above that, aim for these overall ratios:

15 9.94
16 9.71
17 9.27
18 8.83
19 8.45

So for your 17-turn, about a 25 tooth pinion. You may run out of room on the motor mount and need to use a smaller set of gears. 81/23 is pretty close.

wow.. 25tooth?

i was running a 21tooth pinion and thought the motor was getting too hot so i went down to a 20 tooth. i'll make a larger jump and try a 23-24 tooth and check the motor temp.

thanks for the insight


Hey bill,
thanks also, so the whole brushless setup includes the ESC? its going to be awhile before i can invest in a brushless setup but its sounding like a better deal already. if i DID go with a brushless setup i'd have two ESC's that handle down to a 17T motor. ultimately i'd like to have a super rooster in the pede and brushless system in the evader

in time..

Heat is relative - when you race stock for example you do the five second test. If you can hold your thumb on the motor without pain for five seconds after a run, you're fine. :rolleyes: Your mod motor should be fine as long as you stay somewhere under that. But by all means go up a tooth at a time and see if you're comfortable with it. Bring it back in a couple of times during the run and feel for heat. If you start smelling things from the motor, stop.

When you race mod everything is going to get hot, it's just a fact of life. More power requires more current, and heat increases with current squared.

ok i wont make the 3-4 tooth jump:D

i have some battery cycling to do tonight and i wanna try everything as its currently set up so i can tell how much of a difference cycled packs will make.

probably clean the comms too.

pinions are next.

Thanks again Dan

Q2k2, i was gonna get a emaxx before i decided on the evader, but now i think nitro might suit my driving more, i really dont like waiting for the batt's to charge and i'd like to go and bash hours at a time. I'm mostly looking for the speed tho, and emaxx can only do 30 without sticking in some new motors or a brushless system. As much as i want an emaxx i do wanna try out nitro. I admit it, i'm a cheap sonva gun:D there is no way i will go spend 120 bux on two 2400's and a $150 dual charger for an emaxx heck thats about what my evader costs brand new! for nitro i figure a big gallon of fuel for 20 bux and some extra glo plugs and im ready to roll. so then when i feel like some smoke and noise i'll pull out the tmaxx, when i want a quiet run later in the evening or in the morn out goes the evader!

r/c helicopter looks awesome too...i might give that a try
:lol: then again i live on a lake lot so i might buy a nitro boat! so much r/c, so little time(and money).:thumbsup:

Glow fuel- $25. Glow starter and charger- $20. Eight OS #8 Glow plugs- $50. After run oil- $3.99. Air filter oil- $8.00. NiMH Rx batteries- $28. Raytek mini temp gun- $80. Fail safe unit- $35. After market head- $50. New piston and sleeve- $40. The look on your face when you finally realize that nitro ain't cheap either- Priceless!

Sorry p.n.e., just couldn't resist. I have an Evader and a nitro buggy and I can guarantee you, none of it's cheap in the end.

haha! :D remember i said i was a cheapo? i've got this all carefully laid out..
glow fuel-25 bux
ez start 2- free with rtr tmaxx
2 glowplugs used very sparingly (soak em in coca cola after they foul)-10 bux
some wd-40 - free, found it lying around in the garage
nicd aa pack - 5 bux
walmart oven thermometer with some slight modifications-10 bux
small failsafe spring from homedepot-50 cents
heating the old piston up to 400 degrees in the toaster oven and dousing it in oil so it swells -free

and there ya have it! 50 bux!

:lol:

jep - thought I'd put this in this thread to keep it out of the FAQ thread. I'll have to check out Yankee Workshop some time. I'm a real sucker for power tools *grunt grunt* hehehe

Q - great that they're sending two bodies as replacements. I kinda like the 50s truck one.

Dan - the "touch the motor" thingy for testing how hot a motor is doesn't work for me. My fingers are very sensitive to heat so I have my baby bro' check the motor for me most of the time, though I've learned how to tell by touching the motor for less time.

cj - welcome to the "real" Evader forum!

Dan - where do you buy those comm sticks online? Tower only has like two different ones. I'll have to check my LHSs again to see what they have, but the last time I remember looking they only had one that's not as good as the Rat Shack version I have and it was like twice the price.

I saw your write-up on shock placement. I'm looking forward to pics and more info. It's definitely something I'll be copying over to my Evader folder!

Hey! I've been here before! I've just been so busy that I haven't raced in months, so now I'm trying to catch up. One advantage to TX, we can race year round. If anybody finds a comm stick that works well, let me know. p.n.e. check out this link on a low $ temp gauge, I think it's right up your alley. http://www.teamrcv.com/article.php?sid=43

cjtamu,
that was a great original response to p.n.e.
i'm still laughing.. (priceless.. ha ha)

Thanks Kitty,
i think i'll hook the lights up on the 57Chevy :D

p.n.e.
i've thought about a TMaxx too but for now i'm happy with my evader and epede. you mentioned 2400mah packs for $120 but you can get 2 V'Maxx Packs from towerhobbies for like $40. i got a pair at my lhs for $49. been pretty happy with the packs so far. they're not racing packs but they DO pack a punch and my run times went up quite a bit.

i watched a guy at my local track fly a heli around inside the building and he said it took him a year to get comfortable with flying it. apparently its really tough. his was small and he said it set him back over $500 for the setup.

i've been really tempted to get a fast rc boat. looked at the Traxxas website and theres a dual motor batt powered boat i'd love to get my hands on. i bought two $30 boats just to have when my nephews come over but they just run on 6 AA batts. they're fun but really slow. i want something that throws up a rooster tail :D

let me know if you look further into boats. i think that might be my next rc investment

I'm with Q2k2 on the packs. I have two 2400 mah Peak Powermaxx packs, and they work great. Unless you're running a really low wind that shortens your run times to just a little over 5 minutes, I don't think you're going to notice the difference b/w them and a set of matched cells. And you can always lower resistance by going to a better ESC, changing to Deans or similar connectors, etc.

Went to college with a guy who originally bought an R/C car (I hold him responsible for my addiction). He then graduated to a heli. He had to build this big tinkertoy-looking base (very wide, very stable) that attached over or in place of the skids. The idea was that you spent several weeks just learning to pick it up 2" off the ground and set it back down using the big tinkertoy base before you even thought about trying to actually fly your very expensive toy. It was way cool once he learned to fly it, though.

The R/C boats are supposed to be excellent. I work with a guy who flys planes, and he's also built a couple of boats. One of them is a nitro air boat that he designed. He says it's so fast it will catch air at full throttle. Haven't been able to go play with it yet, but I'll give you the review when I do.

Last thing. Tower doesn't show the new Evader slipper and pads being available. Anyone seen them yet? I'm going to try the LHS across town this weekend.

If Tower doesn't have them yet I doubt anyone else will...

hey everyone. i havent been here for a while. has any body gotten a new evader and not have any problems with the gearing? just wanted to know the progress. can every one put up pictures of there evaders catchin air? see you all later. s.s + w = 13

cjtamu, (thermometer)thats what i'm talkin about!:) i've seen those training bases , but ya gotta start somewhere right? lol, i have seen all sorts of neat tricks done with them..maybe one day when i win the lotto...

Q2k2 it seems up here in canada, our money is pretty worthless :(

Jacob, I haven't been here in awhile so I don't know what gearing problems you're talking about. Is it stock the gear ratio you don't like or a mechanical problem? The only thing I've noticed is that it's hard to get the gear mesh set just right. A little too loose and you get an ugly squealing sound, and too tight and the motor runs hot. Alack and alas, my Evader is grounded and cannot fly. At least until the new ESC gets here, which should be tomorrow. Then, all I have to do is go to the LHS, get capacitors and Schottky diodes, get them soldered and program the ESC and maybe I can run on Sat. Should all of the above happen, I'll try to get pictures.

cj...

"get capacitors and Schottky diodes, get them soldered...."

What are Schottky diodes, why do you use them, and or what do they do?

Thanks
Bill

Bill wrote: "What are Schottky diodes, why do you use them, and or what do they do?"

Schottky diodes are diodes that have a low forward voltage drop and fast reverse bias recovery. This makes them good for clamping and protection circuits. A diode is basically a two terminal electronic component that only flows current in one direction.

Schottky diodes are used to help protect the ESC and to assist the ESC in braking the motor. Some ESC's (i.e. most Novaks) have internal Schottky's, but people like to add them anyway for extra protection and better braking. SCHOTTKY DIODES SHOULD ONLY BE USED ON "FORWARD-ONLY" ESCs - the diode will damage a reversing ESC when it is put into reverse because the diode will forward bias and look like a dead short to the ESC :cry:

The diode is wired in a reverse biased fashion in parallel with the motor terminals; i.e. the cathode, or banded end of the diode is wired to the motor (+) terminal, and the anode is wired to the motor (-) terminal. It is best to wire it right to each motor, but some like to wire one across the ESC side of a motor connector (like a Deans's ultra).

Jep
Jep-R/C Products (http://www.geocities.com/jep_rc)

Thanks Jep, glad your back.

My brain hurts from trying to process all that jep.. but i do thank you for the knowlege.


cj, a heli would be pretty cool.. the guy i watched was very good and even chased some of the trucks around the track.. it looked like a 1/10 scale car chase out of a Bond movie.



Question for the Masses..

what types of bodies have you put on your Evaders?
me:
Stock F150 ST body
HPI Baja body
Parma Durango body

thinking of turning the evader into a street car/truck but calling on you guys (and kitty) to hear what others have tried.

pictures would be great if you have any.

thanks

Jacob ask and you shall recieve



welcome back.

Q

Way to go, jep. And yes some ESC's (i.e. most Novaks) have internal Schottky diodes. But some ESC's (i.e. most Novaks) also have a tendency to beat up comms and brushes, and a little extra protection never hurts.

Q2- the helis are way cool. We used to buzz people on campus w/the heli and our trusty Tamiyas. Great fun.

Invation of the RC's..

would be fun to just unleash 50-100 rc's on a public park.. can you imagin the chaos?




hey kitty, whats the latest on the Buggsy?