Hey guys whats up.

I was wondering if anyone knows of a gear diff that would fit the evader, It seems I keep melting the ball diff..lol any suggestions

maybe possibliy a whole new tranny...

Doc-

Just saw it in the latest edition of radio Control Car Action Page 82. Just incase anyone is interested. I'll stick to electric myself.
Thanks
FREAK

I suppose it was inevitable. Does it come with a "powerful 2.5cc engine"? :rolleyes:

Doc,

The Evader trans has had it's problems. The newer released trucks seem to hold up better.

You have several options. Replace the whole trans. Rebuild with stock parts, or rebuils with up graded parts. The Jeritts Evader FAQ thread would be a good place to get part #'s and repair options.

When your done the trick is to get the diff. slipping to a minute amount and let the slipper clutch do the protecting.

Comes with new OS Built .18 - Blue Aluminum Chassis, Header and Tuned Pipe. Body is same except HOT NEW Colors. One shown is Blue with Orange and yellow Flame type markings. Comes RTR Part # DTXD0062 No Pricing Available yet.

FREAK

ahh, that is just truly cool. hope the bodies will fit ours too:cool:

Bodys do look the same so they should fit with no problem.....:thumbsup:

:eek: thats it, im running out tommorow and buying a copy, heheh!:thumbsup:

Speaking of bodies.. for those of you who are new to the Evader and RC in general heres a little tip. the original Evader body is really thin and flexible which makes it more durable for hard impacts. i ran out and but a Bug body right away and learned the hard way that the thicker, stiffer bodies dont take too kindly to hard impacts.

my body now has large cracks in it. when bashing around the yard and stuff it was fine but on the track it didnt do so well. might be time to invest in another one.. maybe this one will look like Herby.

Q

Jep had this to say
(Warning, shameless plug). Lucky for me, it looks like the front bulkhead is the same, so everyone still needs a Jep-R/C Pin Brace Set.
Mmm hmm. You are shameless :D I'm patiently waiting for mine to arrive in the mail, while impatiently waiting for a boatload (truckload?) of replacement parts a la Hobby Services, as well as getting my damned MRC 959 repaired. I had to call them again yesterday. Thankfully, I got Mike on the phone and he told me what the hold up was - both techs were out - but that he'd put mine on top of the list. He's a real sweetheart to deal with. I also asked why they didn't have an email contact on their web site and he told me it was due to spambots, so I told him to have their webmaster give me a holler (I use javascript to avoid spambots all the time). It'll probably be at least another week before I get my truck back on the road.

Thanks for the info on the latest replacement parts. I'm shocked that I haven't broken the chassis, but if I do, I'll for dang sure send it in for one of the newer ones.

Bill - What kinda mods did you have to make to fit the Hitec servo in?

Q2k2 - which baja body did you buy? I just bought one and opted for the thicker version. Maybe I made an oopsie heh (ps - It's "Herbie") ;)

Thanks Kitty.. i'll just refer to him as Ocho' from now on ;). the baja body i went with is from HPI (Baja Bug Body for RS4 MT). its a good body, i chose not to attach the engine and spoiler to give it more classic lines. i didnt have problems with it just bashing but a couple hard landings upside down put some major cracks in it. mainly because the scoop on the top sticks up and when it hits hard (upside down:rolleyes: ) it sends cracks thru the roof. so just be cautious like you would with any body. send me some pics when you get it painted up. :D

as for the hitech servo question to bill, i'll just say that i put in a medal geared Hitec (525MG i think) and the only mod persay was buying a new set of armetures because the hitec has a different number of splines than the stock evader servo. i think its the difference of one or two splines and i didnt notice until i got everything back together and it was still slipping. dont quote me but i think it was an "H" arm that i ended up with. (in case you didnt know the arms are labeled with letters to indicate how many splines they have).

what was wrong with your 959? i have the same charger and i get a false peak almost every charge. then i have to start over again and although i ultimately get a good charge its kind of annoying.


Q

Kitty,

If you are talking about the Hitec 605 or 645 they are a little taller (if you set the servo with output sticking straight up). I don't have an Evader but to fit it in my XXT it required just a bit of fileing on the servo corner and the ball-cup that attaches to the servo arm.

Q2k2 is right the number of splines on the output shaft requires you to use a different servo arm. You should be able to use the heavy X shaped arm packaged with the Hitec servo. Just cut it down to one arm (remove other 3)and mount the ball end.

You will not believe how much difference a faster, stronger servo will make the truck feel. You can set up turns 10 feet from the corner instead of 30 feet. :thumbsup:

Hi Kitty:

The mod I made to install the servo was for a Stampede. Looks like Bob and Q have filled you in on Evader servo swaps. If your are intrested in the epede mod let me know and I'll give you all the details.

Bill

If i got the titanium turnbuckle set, and titanium hinge pin set how much lighter would it make the evader. Would I notice a large difference in weight when they are installed?

Hi YoYou13 - the main reason to get the titanium parts is because they are much *stronger*. I doubt you would notice any significant weight diffrence.
Jep

How many of you guys race your Evaders? I hear a bunch about backyard bashing and jumping. I was just wondering, with the new winter race season upon us. How many will join me in the low buck race arena. BLR

False peaking on the Super Brain 959... That's one reason I sent mine in. It was false peaking way too much and the LCD area got way too hot for comfort after charging just one battery pack. No word yet on when I'll get mine back ::sigh::

I've read from numerous others who own 959s who cool theirs down using fans, either putting a desk/room fan nearby, sticking a 12v fan on top of it, or modding it to install a 12v fan inside (which, of course, voids the warranty). Heck, I forget what the warranty is on them anyway. I'll have to find and re-read the article a guy did about putting a 12v computer fan in his. I have plenty of those lying around, even some that light up heh

BobT: Thanks for the additional info on the servos!

Freak: Bashing on carpet? I've read a few mentions on other forums about carpet racing stadium trucks, but I don't get it. Are there jumps, whoops and the like or is it more like road racing?

Aaaaannnd... to anyone who has sent broken stuff in to Hobby Services for replacement, about how long did it take to get replacements back? Their site says that they'll send a card in the mail to notify you that they have your stuff, but that's it. I'm kinda bummed not having my truckster ready to roll. It's not like I could bash right now due to the weather (rainy Texas autumns - gotta love 'em), but it's the principle of it all. There are other mods I want to do but I want some road time first. Sheesh!

kitty, i think a desktop fan beside it is the safest way to go about it without tapping into the superrbains power supply or tapping into its plastic shell. i use one on my pirana charger even tho it only gets warm, helps it last longer. good luck with the replacement.


i got a sg pro 9 turn today. considered the caliber but just couldnt resist this one :D its so awesome! havent taken it for a run yet but it can balloon these tires pretty darn well.



freak, nice site :thumbsup:

p.n.e. you are too funny some times ;) We'd better hope that someone finds a cross-reference for some CVDs for you or they put out a set for the Evader because with all the power you're giving yours, it's gonna break a set pin or tweak an axle eventually :p

lol, i'm trying my best not to balloon the tires anymore, it really rattles the a arms and the wheels since they are unbalanced. wouldnt want it to come flying off..

Bob is right about the strong servo. For backyard bashing it's hard to beat a Hitec 645. I run a 645 in my T3 and wish it was a little faster but have no complaints at all about its holding power. Bulk servos are OK for moving ailerons but they're crap for steering a truck.

I'm not sure I'd want to race an Evader. Aside from any issues of raceworthiness, there just isn't the local parts support for it. It sucks to pay eight or twelve bucks to race and then go home after two thirds of a heat because the thing broke and there aren't any parts for it.

Go to a race, especially in the summer, and you'll see lots of fans pointed at chargers and batteries. Most will be the little AC clip fans or something similar. I have my old Tekin charger modded with a muffin fan from Radio Shack.

A truck on carpet races the same course as the pan and touring cars. No jumps or anything. I'm not sure why people do it. You sort of have to turn your truck into a weird lowrider to be competetive.

The comm won't last very long on a 9T motor. Keep it well cleaned and think more seriously than before about getting it cut regularly.

my 959 now false peaks every battery. i set up a fan on it this weekend but havent tried the new setup. i'll let you know how it goes.

9T eh? sounds like trouble :thumbsup:

Q

My spur gear cover has had it. It is the original clear one that came with the truck. I can't find a replacement one any where. Stock or otherwise. Any help ???? BLR

dan, i am motor spraying it after every run and using a comm stick too. the guy at the lhs said it wouldnt need turning that often but he would do it for me free of charge with his lathe when i needed it.

bluelightracer: Tower Hobbies sells them. You just have to get one or two while they have them in stock. There is a very high demand for them, apparently. They're not made of the greatest materials around. The one I got a few weeks ago has a very light blue tint to it. I'm going to check into using a cover from another vehicle, though I do like the clear ones.

p.n.e.: goofy me. I forgot. If you haven't read Jerrit's FAQ, do so. One of the guys mentioned a number of parts from the XXT that will easily retrofit the Evader, including CVDs.

thanks kitty, first things first tho, i gotta gear down :) then maybe we'll see about saving for some cvds or new tires/rims.

There's nothing like the feeling of having new goodies on your vehicle. Heck, by the time I get mine back together (still waiting on return parts from Hobby Services *sigh*) it'll have plenty of new stuff on it. I already swapped out the ball cups for some pretty purple RPM ones and bought 70mm camber links to replace the 65mm ones on the rear because I don't like to see that many threads showing. As soon as I get the replacement parts, there will be a lot of new stuff on my truck hehe That includes a brace set from Jep, and I'm going to go ahead with the side-by-side battery conversion thingy and toss in the new Jag motor.

Dang, by the time I'm finished, I'll nearly have a new truck! I think I'm gonna do the weird mod to the Evader body and save the new Buggsy body for the track where at least when I roll it, it won't scar up as much as it would on pavement.

Oh yeah. And the RPM Talonz with street tires. Yah, it will be a new truck after all!

Originally posted by jep_rc
Thanks! - Don't get an LXT body - the rear shocks are mounted differently and the body will not fit the Evader:cry:. Go to the Pro-line website: http://www.pro-lineracing.com/ and compare body pics for the XXT and LXT(nitro) trucks, the rear shock wells are positioned much farther back for the LXT. You should be safe with any body designed for the XXT, XXTcr, or XXXT.

I did some looking into the Losi bodies for the Evader and found out that the reason the nitro bodies won't fit is because the shock placement for the nitro is designed farther back.

I am new to this site, but I am seeing some great information. You notice my login name "EvaderKiller" this is because my Evader is currenly down because of a severe wipe out :confused: I hit a curb flat out and broke almost everthing thing. The list is: chassis, front shock tower, front brace, bottom of both front shocks, WOW :eek: I will try and post a jpg when I get the pictures developed.

EvaderKiller

Welcome to the party E'Killer,

sorry to hear about your truck, if your looking for returns from the strestech warranty it sounds like its going to be awhile until your back up and running. just ask kitty :D


i replaced a front and rear wheel hub last night and some bent Pins too. in the mess i lost a ball end:mad:. so all that work had no reward. back to the Lhs tonight.


Just orderd a light set for both my trucks and i'll post some pictures when i get them installed. from the sounds of it these are going to be pretty rediculously bright. but we'll see. if anyone is looking for light sets check out this guys offer in the Swap'n Sell
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showt...&threadid=32608

Q

Actually, I have had pretty good luck with getting Hobbico to replace the Stress Tech parts. However, I have had to stay on top of them. I sent the parts for replacement last Wednesday (10-23), and they sent me word that the parts have been replaced and shipped yesterday (10-29). :D

The first encounter that I had with them resulted in the parts being returned without even sending in the broken ones, and they were returned within a week.:thumbsup: I will post both the before and the after pictures once I get my rig back up and going.

E'killer
Cant wait to see the pics.

how long have you had your evader? any interesting mods or bodies you've put together?

Kitty, You mentioned a good contact in the tech department at Hobbico, well I just wanted to add one in the Product Support department. I have been dealing with Sandy Kiest, and she has really gone out of her way to help. I would suggest anyone needing to get replacement parts to try and contact her. She has done a great job for me. :thumbsup:

EvaderKiller

Q2k2, I have had my Evader for only about six months and although I have had to replace the front shock tower and front brace, I feel that both cases were my fault. I am in the process of prepping a Losi XXXT body for my truck and once I get it back together again, I will get some pictures and post them.

I am considering making some upgrades to my truck, I am just not sure were to start. I am open to suggestions.

EvaderKiller :wave:

first upgrade i made was a faster motor. the jaguar 17t seems to be a strong choice. i use it both in my evader and my stampede. other than that, tires are a good choice, springs (depending on driving conditions), new shock oil, and/or new pinion gears to name a few.

Will the standard ESC handle the upgraded motor? :confused:

Yes, the stock Sprint ESC will handle down to a 17Turn motor. i've been running one in mine for months now and have had Zero problems. i also changed my pinion to a 20 tooth to give myself a little more top end. wish i had an electronic speedometer for it :D

have you done any mantenance on your motor yet? i bet your comm is overdue for a cleaning if you havent.

Q

Do you happen to know where I can get a com-stick?

Q... Did you keep the stock ESC in the epede?

EKiller... jerrits Evader FAQ's in the off road section is a good resourse for Evader up grades. You may need to go back a page or two to find it. Comm sticks are at the LHS or Tower on line has them.

E'killer,
Bill's right, either your local hobby shop or Towerhobbies.com will have them. it made a significant difference on my truck when i cleaned mine.. now i do it once every couple weeks or (5-8 packs)

hey bill are we going to get your Camp Thread going?

i figured you should have the honors of starting it up ;)

yeah i left the stock ESC in the Pede. i'd love to put an unlimited in there so i could put some ungodly fast motor in it but for now the 17T is doing fine. guess i'll just keep my eyes out for a good deal on a Super Rooster and enjoy myself for now

You should see it by 10-31-02.

Look's like the epede gets a faster motor soon:devil:

its just so much fun to drive that going faster is inevitable.

Tip - you can clean your comm without taking the motor out of the car. Undo the front brush on the motor and put in the comm stick. Hold down the stick and roll the car forward and back to make the motor turn over. You can also hold down one wheel and turn the other.

Another tip - Some sticks have a round section opposite the comm cleaning end. This is for cleaning the brushes. This is one of those things that makes you slap your forehead when you finally notice it.

>>WHACK!!<<

thanks for the tip Dan. i shoulda figured that out

dan, i noticed that too but it doesnt work very well..just sort of smears the crap on the brush around. the material on the stick isnt really rough enough to clean it off. i just motor spray and wipe down the brush surfaces.

kitty, one thing to watch out for is be careful when making side by side packs is not to solder a cell on the wrong way. plus there should be shrink wrap on each cell to prevent shorting. my cheapo 1800 stick pack in the cardboard tubes didnt have any and i make the mistake of ripping the cardboard off so i had to ducttape the outside (they shorted everytime there was contact between cells).

Q2K2-that link didnt work but i am assuming that these are a set of custom LEDS? theres a guy who is selling them on just about every forum. i am getting a set of those as well and they should come in bout 2 weeks or so. I'm trading the guy my sprint esc for 4 headlights, and 2 blue wheel lights. good luck with yours and lmk how they are if you get yours before mines!

Righton p.n.e. :D
glad to hear your setting up your ride with some lights too. same goes for you, if you get yours before me shoot some pictures and let me know what you think of the kit. sounds like they're pretty bright so i'm super anxious to hook'm up and go for some night driving..


as for the link, i think it was shut down because it was seen as commercial gain. oh well.. if anyone is intrested in lights i have the guys information.

The stick is a polisher. If you have a pretty good layer of crud on the brush face, first of all you're not cleaning your comm, and second of all you can scrape it off with an X-Acto. If you clean the brushes at the same time as the comm, every 2-4 runs, it's enough.

Has anyone done anything interesting with there RC's for Halloween.

for instance i'm thinking of making a ghost and somehow mounting it to my truck and driving it around in the streets tonight when all the kids are out trick'or treating..

if only i had some red LEDs for the eyes.

also considered strapping a candy dish to the chassis and teasing kids with it.. let'm get close and take off. unless they can run over 30mph i dont think they'll catch it. nothing TOO traumatizing but a little harmless fun wouldnt hurt:rolleyes:

q2k2 u read my mind, i wanted to mount some kinda witch costume on it and drive it around chasing ppl heheh.. as for the lights, i orginally wanted 4 lights on a bar on the roof, that'd give it a pretty mean look. but the guy doesnt sell em for cheap, and i might break it on a flip.

dan, thats odd, im cleaning it every run and still get all this 'crud' on the brush face.. even the run after i rebuilt the motor and polished up the comm to a bright shine.

happy halloween yall! :devil:

Put two red leds on it for eyes. Loosen the slipper just a tad so it whistles more. When you drive it around in the dark it sounds and looks like a crazed rat running around in the dark. :devil:

Happy Holloween!

pne, what kind of brushes are you running?

Tip - don't eat all that candy at once, you'll make yourself sick.