Originally posted by p.n.e.
JB, correct me if I'm wrong, but doesnt the Emaxx have 2 shocks on each wheel? And a lot more clearance, I think the Emaxx would make a much better jumper, you could upgrade the shocks if needed.



Sorry this took so long. It's been a while since I've been on the boards....
Aluminum shocks are a planned upgrade. The easiest way to get more air is more speed, right? It would simply cost too much to get my e-maxx up to the speed I'm looking for (I don't want to spend $250+ to go brushless, nor do I want to spend the money on a double esc/540 motor setup. It's fine as it is):)

Originally posted by Bill Hartley
JB, Whats with CA anyway, why are there so few tracks around? I've spent several weekends checking out hobby shops and looking for RC tracks. Seems like everyone has "good spots" but no one I spoke to had a local track they use, I guess I don't know the secret hand shake. I'll keep looking. Let me know of any your aware of, Mexico to San Fransisco. Oh, about the "goal" comment, what I ment was because your further along in the hobby than I the motor I'm using would not meet your needs. Just thought the positive comment about the SG 2 might help.




There aren't too many tracks in my area. My preference is SoCal RC.

Sorry if I offended you with my response to you saying we had different goals. I thought you meant something else. My mistake:wave:

BTW, I appreciate the suggestion for the SG 2.

JB do u have a 7 cell mod on ur emaxx? that will give it an extra 4 or 5 mph, making it around 30 tops. thats not so bad. but whatever works for you, go for it :thumbsup:

now bak to brushless, i've been reading around lately and many ppl say a thing to get is cvds. what are these? are they the drive shafts? and are the driveshafts on the emaxx plastic?? they look that way in the pictures, and same for the T-maxx 2.5 review.

one last thing, how will the tranny handle a speedgem 2 15T quad? and would i be able to pull wheelies with that and a novak superrooster? that setup would give me good top speed and not so good torque correct? I'm thinking low turns = top speed, high winds=top speed. am i right?

thx

CVDs are a fancy dogbone and universal joint. They are all made by MIP, but many of the higher-end cars include them straight from the factory. You don't need them on an Evader; the universal it came with is fine. The T-Maxx has sliding universals that may waste some power, but a full set of CVDs is a rather drastic and expensive thing to do.

The "CVD"s for R/c cars are not really constant-velocity joints like you'd find in a real car. They're just very good universals.

Hey again, guys! I miss another day or two on this board and two more pages were added. Goodness!

Bill - Congrats on losing your proverbial cherry on motor disassembly! The first time I ever took one apart, I was SO afraid of parts flying, resulting in a serious crying fit. Luckily, that didn't happen. Glad to hear you're really getting into things now :)

Dan the Man - Please forgive my ignorance on the servo saver bit. I can't understand how just replacing the servo arm would work. Well, I can see how it would work if I mount the ball in a center hole and possibly trim the edges of the saver a little for clearance if needed. But previously, I think it was you who mentioned that with the Kimbrough, you can run without the stock servo saver. That's where I get confused. The way the steering parts are designed on the Evader, would one not have to retain the stock servo saver for the geometry to work properly? I have looked at everything numerous times and the only way I can see being able to run without the stock servo saver would be to somehow move the servo further forward and use a longer steering link to the wheel. Am I missing something here? Please be gentle - I'm a modifier, not an engineer :hat: <- that's my dunce cap.

p.n.e. and others - what Dan said about CVDs. When I first heard about them, I was thinking they'd have to have very tiny bearings for that size. I was picturing in my head an old air-cooled VW CV joint in micro miniature. Doh!

I've read elsewhere that they aren't needed on an Evader. The stock steel u-joint-type shafts work just fine and are less expensive. But p.n.e. mentioned about them on an E-Maxx. My baby bro' (best friend) has one and I'll tell you from experience, if you like doing wheelies, you'll eventually need the MIP CVD kit. We were bashing one night and all of a sudden he had two wheel drive. He grabbed his truck by the bumper and we peeked underneath to find that the rear shafts had twisted and broke. He ran for about another 20 seconds in 2WD mode before it just sat there, motors spinning. I have a feeling that he'll eventually swap out the main drives with a MIP kit, but for now he's having tons of fun again. I'd like to save up some money after the holidays and get an E-Maxx myself. The Evader doesn't do wheelies and I love wheelies :D

Okay, I spared you guys the super-long post by putting this into a separate one. Some of you already know I can be pretty "wordy" hehehe

ANYway...last night, baby bro and I were doing our usual late-night bashing. Only about four or so minutes into my first pack and I smacked a "driveway guide pole" that I put up so my mother doesn't drive off into the ditch. It's a piece of PVC pipe covering a 3/4" piece of rebar. It has a little give, but not enough when I slammed into it, full throttle with my new and newly-cleaned Green Machine 3 Pro. Actually, not at all at that speed.

I could only laugh. And laugh a lot I did. It was just as cathartic as crying and throwing my truck would have been, actually even more so and far less expensive as that would have been.

Items broken/damaged: front right suspension arm (A-arm), lower shock mount, bent camber link, bent king pin and one missing e-clip. I never did find all the pieces of my suspension arm, even after looking today during daylight hours. I think parts of it completely vaporised. But hey, neither link pin was bent the slightest!

The previous outing for my Evader resulted in a stripped ball link on the right inner rear camber link (inside the brace). I had just finished moving both inner balls to another hole, readjusting the camber and giving my motor a thorough cleaning when we went out, then all that happened. Sheesh! Of course, some of you know that the Evader I got was from the "early batch" with the more brittle parts. Thankfully I had a spare set of front arms and a shock parts set on hand. I managed to tweak the camber link well enough to last me until the order I placed tonight gets here. Same goes for the king pin - just a slight bend, but I have practice at straightening out metal parts and a good eye for it as well. The king pin passed the "roll test" with no noticeable wobble. I'm still going to replace it, though.

Ah, well. At least I'm breaking parts that are mostly covered under the guarantee. I'll be fine. Really, I will hehehe

ps - bought a bag of 100 body clips on an eBay auction. Though the schmuck didn't leave positive feedback for me in spite of my paying within 24 hours of the auction end, they are larger clips that'll work on baby bro's E-Maxx as well and they look sturdy. Plus I'm going to fashion some sort of retainer that will keep clips from becoming lost if/when they ever come loose. Now they'll only have to last until they break (baby bro' breaks body clips regularly heh).

Later, guys!

Kitty - the Kimbrough servo saver IS a servo arm. The outer servo arm part is insulated from the inner splined hole by a spring.

On the Evader, you'd replace the regular servo arm with the Kimbrough and install everything else normally. Then tighten down the stock servo saver so the Kimbrough does all the work.

Don't worry about broke parts. It happens to everyone - especially running in the street!

Kitty - like Dan said.. we all endure significant levels of breakage. it wouldnt be 'bashing' otherwise.

Dan - the comms looked to be in good shape. dirty but good. i wedged the comm stick under the bell housing and spun the motor until it was nice'n shiney. all packs were discharged so i couldnt REALLY test them but i did plug them in to make sure they spun the right way (i was mildly relieved to say the least). thanks for the tips and i'll definately keep a close eye on the new brushes. now that i know how easy it is to pull one out and look :thumbsup:

a couple of my good friends are in town visiting tonight and are eager to put my Evader BugX to the test. i'm sure i'll be looking into replacement parts come monday. oh well.

Q

Have a good weekend Guys... and Kitty.

I'm off like a prom dress:D

Q

kitty, you have the most interesting posts in this forum by far lol :thumbsup:

Today it snowed!! thats right, freakish weather up here in Alberta.. it went really sunny, then blizzards where you couldnt see 20 feet in front of you, then super sunny and clear again. it did that all day so when the sun broke out i grabbed my evader n dashed outside to get my bashing done b4 the snow started. i cycled my 1800 sport pack last night and it performed great! i was thrownin water rooster tails everywhere! and with some saran wrap my motor and esc were bone dry. that just made my week :D and as for throwing your evader (if any of you get the urge), i cant even afford to throw it :( today, instead of putting it down i dropped it from waist height thinkin the shocks would cushion it. (i just readjusted for max ride height). well it landed on an angle somehow and cracked my rear rim up majorly :cry: i have an old dollar store car that i take my anger out on, plus i also switcharoo parts from that to my evader for fun! i made a sort of wheelie bar, yes im addicted to wheelies too, but couldnt afford the emaxx. it wheelies for me if i start it off with the front wheels off the ground.

ah..what was i gonna say in the first place, ah yes! Cvd's heheh, got a little off topic there, i noticed that the universals on the evader causes the wheels to vibrate at high speeds, can i do anything to help this? this is when the wheels are off the ground mind you. i tried adjusting the shafts to be level with the ground but this makes it worse, right now my max right height has a bit less vibration. /\ something like that but less exaggerated


well i think thats a long enough post, have a good weekend everyone!

Probably not the universal joint's fault. Possibilities:

1. Balance. Your tire is out of round, or coming off, or the inner foam has water in it.

2. Your wheel is tweaked and no longer sits straight on the axle.

3. Your axle is tweaked and no longer holds the wheel straight.

To check, hold the rear in the air and run the wheels SLOW, like a bare crawl. If everything looks straight unless it's going fast, it's a balance problem. If it's wobbling even at low speed, something's bent.

It is possible that something in the driveline is worn out. Check the pins in the universal joint. Also, the transmission outdrives can get bent by the torque on them.

Originally posted by Dan the Man

or the inner foam has water in it.

I've got a good story for that one...
A few nights ago, I was revving up my evader while holding one wheel, so all the power of 12x2 p-94 go into the other (my diff is dead already, so it doesn't really matter what that will do to it.) The wheel ballooned like crazy, and actually pulled the tire sidewall from the rim (at least, part of it). It made a loud popping noise, so I thought the rubber tore. The part that was strange to me that all the water that was still in it from a previous cleaning shot out on to the table, the transmitter I was holding, and the transmitter behind it. Kinda' scared me:eek:

there is no water, never run it in water b4, but the tires dont go smoothly at slow crawl, they wobble. maybe they came preglued off center a bit.

Just the tires, or the wheels too?

i think its just the tires, may be the wheels too but i dont know how to tell the diff. oh well, im getting new wheels and tires soon, the rims are chipped and the tires are coming unglued.

going to the lhs tommorow, would a p2k2 lower the top speed over the stock? what tooth pinion? and would i be able to wheelie with it?

Thanks for clearing that up for me, Dan! I was headed in that direction of thinking but I wanted to hear it from someone with experience in these things.

Q2k2
Kitty - like Dan said.. we all endure significant levels of breakage. it wouldnt be 'bashing' otherwise.
a couple of my good friends are in town visiting tonight and are eager to put my Evader BugX to the test. i'm sure i'll be looking into replacement parts come monday. oh well.
heh good point on the bashing bit. Good luck on not breaking anything on your BugX!

p.n.e.
kitty, you have the most interesting posts in this forum by far lol
<blush> Thank you, p.n.e. =) Sorry to hear about the snow. Snow around here is as rare as an honest politician. There's a cold front due in tonight that's supposed to drop temps down into the 70s during the day. Yeah! Now I can run as many packs as I want without much cooling off time for the motor hehehe What you said about doing wheelies by giving your Evader a "helping hand" made me laugh because I do that too. Also sorry to hear about the broken rim. What kind is/was it? I'm kinda surprised that it did that, but if it's an original part, then forget surprise. One of my rear wheels cracked not long after I put mine to the test. I now have a set of HPI wide offset wheels with Dirt Hawg IIs on them and just bought a set of tri-spokes and some medium compound street tires for them. And I only got CA glue on the outer rim of one of them! I am developing my own tire gluing method and it's working out great!

Dan, part deux: Do you have any tips for balancing tires? All of mine are unbalanced. I figured it was just the way they are because of the way the foam fits. I remember reading an article on tire mounting where it's suggested to drill a small hole in the inner rim if there's not already one, to allow the innards to "breathe." Any comments on that one? My HPI wheels have one hole in each, but the RPMs I just glued do not, so I'm also concerned about moisture build-up inside the foams. I don't bash when it's raining, though play a lot at night when the grass is damp from the day's humidity.

p.n.e. II: The Next Episode (heh) - Here's the info I found on the Trinity site:
P2K2 Pro (Torque and RPM Mix)
P2K Pro (High Torque)
Green Machine 3 Pro (High RPM)

"Baby Bro'" has an E-Maxx so the reasons for buying a GM3 Pro should be obvious hehehe

Any of the above will be a definite improvement over the stock motor. For more torque, go with a smaller pinion. I have a cheapie Jaguar 17x2 on the way. I plan to gear it way down for high torque to see if I can do wheelies. I also plan to go ahead and buy a set of backup innards for my gear box because I figure it'll be blotto by the time I'm finished punishing it. I already have a backup idler and plan to put a metal diff in.

Oh, I almost forgot! I also bought a set of purple RPM ball cups. A response from someone at Duratrax said that the shafts are 4-40 and that's what the cups have. I test fitted one and it fit just fine (still waiting on a new camber link set to replace the one I tweaked during my last outing). So if anyone is looking for a colour other than what Duratrax offers, check the RPMs.

Over and outta here =)

kitty, it definatly was the original wheels :lol: do you think its worth trying the p2k2 and see if i can get wheelies off that? or should i just get a green machine? How much faster did your top speed increase by (like was it a noticable increase), and can you keep up with your bro's emaxx? asumming his is stock. And you mentioned you let the motor cool between runs? does it get overly hot or are you just really taking good care of your truck? I don't really want to get a p2k because im afraid my top speed will drop, and stock is about as low as i'll ever want to get for speed. could you recommend a pinion size? i was thinking i could get one for speed and one for torque. because hopefully im going to start bashing with this guy i met on the traxxas forum. He has a Tmaxx and I want to be able to keep up with him reasonably.

*edit
i spent most of the night reading posts and i was also considering a speedgem 17T, but greathobbies has two.

one is Speedgem 2 Sapphire 17T Single
the other is Speedgem 2003 Pro Amber 17T Db

is there a difference between the two besides one is pro the other is not and one is double wind? i was thinking maybe one is older but they are both the same price.

p2k2- around a 21 tooth pinion
17T- a 19 tooth pinion

am i correct? would i get higher top speed from the p2k2 or the 17turn? do you think it would be safe to use a 16T on the stock esc, cuz then i could go 16T triple.

thanks guys.

Kitty - Balancing tires on an R/C is just like balancing tires on the real thing. The easiest way is to get a jig like Great Planes makes for balancing propellers. IMO it's not worth the effort. If it's vibrating it's more likely that something is out of round, or bent, or has water or dirt or something forcing it out of balance.

Yes, you should have a hole on the inside of the wheel, or better yet two or three around the inside. Not too big, just 3/32 or so. This doesn't really have anything to do with water. It's to keep the tire from acting like a balloon. The tires will hang onto the ground a lot better because the foam is a lot less springy than air. Sort of like having less air in the tires.

Most of the water I get in my tires finds its way in while I'm washing them. I do my best to wring them out by squeezing the tire, and the water comes out through the air holes. Can't get it all but in Ridgecrest the rest disappears pretty quick.

To do wheelies - crank down the diff, crank down the slipper, hub carriers forward, shim out the antisquat, raise the front ride height as much as possible, get a torquey mod motor and gear it low, and get rear tires that really grip the surface you're on. It won't be easy, that's not what this truck is made for.

P.N.E., get the speedgems pro (unless you want the lesser power of the speed gems 2.) Are you using the stock sprint esc? The speedgems pro has more power, but I don't know if it draws more energy. The stock esc could probably handle it. Any opinions?

JB-yes it is stock, do you think i would be overdoing it putting a 16 turn triple in there. i cant find a 17 turn that has higher winds than 2 :(

For low end to do wheelies, you want the single. The SG2s are excellent motors. You might also look at the super-torquey motors that some companies make for the E-Maxx.

after calling the lhs they said they didnt have a 17Turn double. plus after running my evader around in the basement today i noticed the esc was pretty warm, almost hot, i think i better not risk a 17 turn. I emailed duratrax and they said 20 limit.

so its down to this..
p2k2 pro
green machine 3 pro

am i missing something? do i need some 12 gauge wire?, a pair of bullet connectors? anything?

i know i've probably beaten all the advice outta you guys that i can get, but anything would help. otherwise i'll just toss a coin.:lol:

You will most likely need to pick up connectors. Trinity makes some no solder connectors I like. the come with bullet connectors on one end, and a connector that slips over the motor tabs on the other. The work really well. I snip off the part the connects to the motor and solder it.
I have a p2k2 pro, so that would be my recomendation.

i have a slipper clutch that gets tighter by itself as i run.
i set it so if i go 1/2 throttle in rev. than hit full going foward it barelly does a wheely.
i know this is not the correct way, but i am tying to keep my son from frying the diff...what 8 year old does not like whellies?
Well i have never had this type of problem with my t3 and was curios if any one had ever had the same thing? i am going to replace the self looking nut for the adjustment because of this..

as for stock motors i run a Green Machine 3 in my t3.
it has enough torgue for the truck and awsome top end.
i had geared it at 22/87 at the track but have changed it to 18/85 now, i gained a little run time this way. the old way i could pull a wheely coming off ht jump's, now i have to hold backk on the trottle a little or she will wheely onto her lid after a jump. also my t3 keeps up with my t-maxx till about mid way thruogh secound gear, so she pretty fast. i have also heard and seen orion core stock motors that have slightly better torgue than my G.M.3..

if any one eles has had the slipper problem let me know, i do not feel like putting another diff in this after only 9 battery packs as of today.

Later
Mames:D

PNE- I recommend you try a reedy mvp.....ive had better luck with it.

p.n.e. - My top speed is very noticeable with the GM3 Pro. The side street we play on has a lot of grass growing up through it, so it depends on how many little bumps I fly over to keep up with my baby bro's E-Maxx. If I can avoid most of them, I usually can keep right up there with him when he's in second gear. It's pretty fast compared to the stock Photon. I let the motor cool between runs when it's hot and humid out. Last week when we were bashing it was about 85F out at night. This week should be different, as temps are expected to be in the 70s during the day and drop after dark. You mention wanting to do wheelies, but also want to retain top speed. In my opinion, that's not going to be possible with any of the brushed motors. I think it would take a brushless to do that and you'd really risk tweaking your gearbox then. If you want better top speed, go with a larger pinion; better torque, use a smaller one. Of the three Trinity motors you've mentioned, the P2K2 would be the better choice, as it's a balance of torque and RPM and right in between the P2K and GM3. You mentioned meeting someone who has a T-Maxx and wanting to keep up with him. That would take some serious tweaking, as the T-Maxx is even faster than the E-Maxx. I've been thinking a bit lately about both your and my desires to do wheelies. I think I'm going to start saving up for an E-Maxx, and a set of wide arms and MIP CVD set for it.

Now, about ESCs. If you plan to go with anything lower than 19 winds, I wouldn't recommend it with the stock ESC. I put a Rooster reversible in mine and it's good down to like 16-17t motors.


Dan - I've considered either buying a balancer or making one of my own. If I do, I'll get some lead tape stuff I've read about for balancing wheels and use something to adhere the foams inside the tires. I'm thinking that otherwise, as the foams slip around, it would change the balance. I'll be making a few "breathe" holes in my new rims and add another or two to my HPIs. Thanks for the tip on that.

Re: your tips on tweaks to be able to do wheelies. Which hub carriers are you talking about moving forward, and what do you mean by shimming out the antisquat?

Re: "For low end to do wheelies, you want the single." I thought that more winds give more torque? I guess I need to go back and read up on that part about motors again. I thought it was fewer turns meant higher top end and more winds meant more torque, eg 17x2 would have more torque than a 17x1, a 15x1 would have more RPM than either of those.

JB - I bought a pair of the Trinity no-solder connectors when I bought my GM3 Pro to be sure it was broken in well and working okay before soldering it. I'm definitely of the opinion that hard wiring is best, followed by soldering on a set of Dean's connectors. I since put Dean's on mine using silver solder, heat shrunk all connections other than at the motor, and decreased the wire length between my ESC and motor. Since then, the motor runs cooler and appears to be much more efficient. I hate bullet connectors. Oh yeah, one thing about the no-solder connectors - if you have a copper end bell on the motor, use a screwdriver to open up the motor ends of the connector a little bit. They tend to be a bit tight out of the package and it's real easy to bend the tabs on the motors.

Mames - It's not good to slam into forward from reverse. It's not good for the ESC and to my knowledge, mentioned in most ESC's info sheets. That could be why your slipper is tightening itself. You may want to get a new locknut for it. I've taken mine off numerous times, but it still doesn't change its position from driving.

Geez. Hope I covered everything hehe

Kitty - the rear hub carriers that hold the axles. In other words, give it a short wheelbase as per the last page of the manual. This puts more weight on the rear. Also, I forgot, put the battery all the way aft.

Motor theory is too complicated to go into here (see Big Jim's Motor Black Book). But generally, number of winds gives the top end. More winds make more torque because it makes a more powerful magnetic field, but the RPM comes out lower because of the increased resistance. This hits its absurd peak in stock motors which have nutty torque but top out almost instantly.

Breaking the winds up into multiple strands makes the bottom end milder. A 17x1 and a 17x2, all else being equal, will top out in the same place, but the single will have more low-end torque. This is not necessarially a good thing. For offroad racing we usually use doubles or triples because singles have an annoying tendency to peel out. Personally I think quads and above are overdoing it but there are people who like them.

Hey Kitty,
i'm running the 17T Jag and i've been real happy with it. i just cleaned the com and put new brushes in it last week and i was VERY impressed with how much performance came back. didnt realize how much was lacking until i had it back.

luckily my buddies didnt break anything this weekend but one tried to wheelie and managed to flip it over onto its lid by rolling backwards and jamming it forward. one look from me ( :mad: ) and he didnt do that again.

p.n.e.
like i said, i'm running the 17T Double on my stock sprint esc and i havent had any problems. like kitty i usually let my motor, and esc cool for a little between packs but other than that its "Go Time!"

good luck
Q

kitty, you had a good point about not being able to wheelie and get a good top speed with brushed motors. I thought about that for awhile and realized its pretty true. I think im going to get a GM3 pro for the speed, plus mames mentioned he could flip his t3 with the right gearing. then i'll start saving for a brushless system. hopefully by then duratrax will come out with some stronger parts for the tranny? Btw, remember that friends tmaxx? i just found out that he converted it to an ofna .21 :eek: guess i'll be eating his dust most of the time (lol)

p.n.e.
just get an unlimited esc and drop some insane mod motor in.. like an 8T Dbl with a 3000mah pack.. but dont tell him.

p.n.e. says:
"huh.. must have been a good charge on that battery.. my Evaders just stock. you sure your tmaxx is running well?" :devil: Hee Hee Hee

the friend:
:confused: !!!!!

lmao Q2K2, :D i should definatly try that one day, maybe a super rooster and a p94 :devil:

let me know how it goes when you do go thru with it.

when i put my 17t into my evader i went out driving with a buddy who has a stock evader and didnt tell him i had a new motor and new 2400mah batteries. he was more than a little frustrated when i smoked him thru 4 packs. :devil:

Just realized I missed part of the explanation for Kitty. Antisquat is the angle that the rear suspension arm pin makes with the plane of the chassis. You'll notice that it's got a few degrees to start with. This stiffens up the rear suspension and prevents some of the tendency to lift the nose under power.

Taking another look at the Evader it appears that it's not easily adjustable, so just don't worry about it. Losi and Associated cars have more parts in the rear suspension, allowing for more adjustment.

PNE
esc's tend to get warm when running slow, like in your basement. I have our original Evader esc. on our Rustler, it never get's hot.

Dan - Okay, I gotcha now on the rear hub carriers. Sometimes you have to all but paint a picture for me heh When you mentioned wheelbase, that little lightbulb went off in my head. I currently have my battery moved back a little already to keep the nose up when jumping (cut the foam in thirds and glued 1/3 to the front. I'll yank the foam from the back and move it to the front and try that out.

Q2k2 - thanks for the words on the Jag. I read in one of the forums about comm pens that one manufacturer uses the exact same thing as a circuit cleaning pen that Radio Shack has, but re-labels it (probably just has them made with their label, really) and charges a lot more. I went to RS and bought one and I have to say I'm pretty happy with it. It does a good job scrubbing schmutz from brush faces and the comm on my GM3 was just as clean as the day I got it after I was finished with it. Pretty funny idea on the unlimited ESC and wild motor idea. I'm starting to save up for an E-Maxx for wheelies, so I'll leave the notion of the super hop-up aside hehehe

Naturally, I'll give an update here when I try out the Jag motor and see how it compares to the GM3 Pro. One thing I noticed on the Tower site was a lack of brushes for the Jag, but after reading a bit on the Peak Performance site, it appears that I can use pretty much whatever brushes I want in it as long as they're the right type.

G'night, guys!

Morning yaw'll,
thanks for the RS tip for comm pens kitty. i broke mine on the first cleaning so i'll check for those on my next trip to the Shack. i think you'll be happy with the Jag motors, i know i am. when i cleaned the comm i put soft brushes in as recomended by our good friends on this thread. so i would suggest the same for you.

last night i took my evader out with one of my nephews (7yrs old) and locked up the slipper to see what kinda of trouble we could get into. we managed to pull some pretty cool flat spins and 360's and even a wheelie or two.

still waiting for a stampeded that i ordered and i hear they pull some pretty nice wheel stands too. we shall see.... oh yes... we shall see...:D

Q

Q2k2 let me know how that stampede turns out. iwas just wonderin but y didnt u get an emaxx instead? U'd get much better wheelies with that :D


22racer, isnt that hot speed control when slow thing only for mechanical speed controls because they use resistors? i thought that was the advantage of havin an esc, not to heat up when slow.

i went to the lhs and they didnt have GM3 or P2K2. just some speed gems, i think im gonna order one in :(

Originally posted by kitty
Pretty funny idea on the unlimited ESC and wild motor idea. I'm starting to save up for an E-Maxx for wheelies, so I'll leave the notion of the super hop-up aside hehehe

i was either considering that or a brushless system. cash is a big limiting factor tho..:mad: 270 bux canadian for a super rooster and 100 bucks or a p94. brushless is even more then a new r/c car heh.. does anyone know how much a tranny rebuild costs? i dont wanna replace it every run if i get a p94 ;) it shouldnt blow up if i ease into the throttle tho should it? I'm not gonna abuse the tranny by jamming in reverse then fwd or anything.

p.n.e.
Bill Hartley (who's been MIA lately) has one and convinced me that its a great truck for the money. nothing against the Emaxx but the stampede is more the size of truck i'm looking for right now..

theres a Stampede Thread on this site that has some great tips for the 'Pede' and i'll be posting my trials and AIR'ers there.. but i'll let you know when i start posting so you can go check it out.

Q

hey my last post did not go as i had intead it to go.

i am very well aware off the damage that can be done with my rev. to forward trottle slamming. the only reason i am doing it is to make sure my son can not do it.
afetr i had rebuilt the diff ( has to be why it went, heard it from his friends) i had the slipper set loose enough that this could not be done.. now that is what i am trying to do again.. as i stated before i am replacing the lock nut. but was woundering if anyone has also seen this.
as perventive damage maintince i am telling him it is broken until i figure out how to keep the slipper from tighting.but this can only last for so long before he figures it out..

I also want to say that add to the motor coment that i made about the t3 with my g.m.3 being able to wheely. i know fro sure i do not have enough torgue to do it any time i wanted to, it will only happen when the suspension is rebounding from a jump. and i am sure the 20t phantom would do the same in that situation.

please do not take this the wrong way, i just do not want anyone thinking i am an idot, or anything.

Mames

my photon isnt even powerful enuf to wheelie it going up a steep hill :( . normally i would use some locktite on a screw thats coming loose but im not sure you are supposed to do that with the slipper nut. the only thing i can think of is that it might be new and will settle down with more runs. just teach your son not to jam it into full throttle when in reverse, its better that he learns this than you keep building diffs. oh, and you spelt idiot wrong too :lol: just kiddin ;)

Mames, I would not try liquid locking on the slipper adjusting nut. A new self locking nut should work. Also try adding a thin washer between the nut and spring, this should eliminate the pressure on the nut. A new lock nut is a must though.

pne, The new issue (Nov.) of R/C Car test runs the new Tean Orion Vortex brushless motor system. They run it in an E-Maxx and although I have not read the entire articial yet my impression is that they liked it. A lot of info on brushless motors in general, is included.

Bill

Mames,
i would have to agree with bill on the washer and new locknut. let us know if that does the trick.

Hey Bill,
Where ya been?

Q

Hi Everyone,

I haven't been to the forum for a while - been busy. Good to see it is still active. (Bill, I still owe you comments on your email - soon I hope)

Regarding slipper nut: It is OK to use Loctite on the nut if you use the "low" strength type (don't remember which color that is, but use it very sparingly and carefully).

TIP: I like to use the low strength liquid gasket product from "Permatex" - I believe it is their #2 type and is plastic safe, so you can use it on just about everything (and I do). It breaks loose easily without stripping out the nut. The Loctite thread lockers should NOT be used in plastic, as they will deteriorate it and make it brittle.

TIP: You can replace your stripped-out 4-40 screws with 3mm screws. 3mm is just slightly bigger diameter than 4-40 and will cut new threads into the plastic of a stripped-out 4-40 hole.

Jep
Jep-R/C Products (http://www.geocities.com/jep_rc/)

Hi everyone,
i'm heading to the beach in a couple weeks and wanted to see if the BugX was up for some dunes. theres a lot of hardpack sand that should be perfect for running.. any tips on how to sandproof my evader or "no no's" i should know about?

Q

Q2K re: sandproof -

If there is any chance of moisture, put your receiver and ESC in a balloon - vaselin in the neck and wire tie shut. Cut out so the ESC heatsink is exposed, of course.

Heatshrink over the universals and diff outdrives to keep sand out - use as thin and flexible a heatshrink as possible. Use tape or RTV to keep sand out of the spur gear cover - pay attention to the backside of the motor plate where the top-shaft enters the spur gear area, you will want to seal this as well with RTV, or with gasket tape.

Anyone have ideas how to keep sand out of the motor?

Jep

Jep, thanks a bunch of the 3mm screw replacement. I've been eyeing a set of anodised screws lately that are 3mm. And, of course, they're purple heh

On keeping sand out of the motor...what about using a fine mesh screen material? I'm thinking plastic would be better than metal to avoid possible shorts and messing with the magnet fields. I don't know a whole lot about motors and their magnets, but to me that would be common sensible and logical.

Heh. It's kinda funny that I mentioned to Mames about geting a new locknut for his slipper but no one said anything about it until Bill mentioned it. I see how it is :p

Bill - good to see you back again!

An old trick for keeping sand out of the motor is to put it in pantyhose (insert snarky remark here). Works for other electronics too, and airflow is still pretty good. Doesn't keep out moisture though.

Hi Everyone:

Sorry for the drop off the boards act on my part. My wife decided to point out that I had a life before RC and highjacked me off to Las Vegas for the weekend with some friends and I had some other work to do on the mainland so I stayed a couple extra days. I did spend the first chance I had when I got back to catch up on the thread. I missed you guys (which includes Kitty of course).

Kitty, It was your comment about the lock nut that I was re-stateing. I felt that it had been missed and was worth saying again.

RC Cars and sand. I've done a little sand driving and what I've found out is this. Nothing you do will prevent the sand from getting into the car and motor. I tried various methods and everything I tried fell short of the task. Jep mentioned several good methods to reduce the problems but you will still have sand everywhere.

Salt, sand and wet sand driving... to do's
1. Make sure your car is as dry as possible then rap it up as Jep states in his previous post. But, take extra rap up materials wih you.
2. After several runs clean up the car as much as possible, rerap. Don't forget to check for heat build up problems between each run.
3. At the end of the same day, not even the next day, take the car apart as much as necessary to insure everything can get a complete cleaning.
4. Never drive in sand that is wet enough to stick to the car. Or in the salt water.
5. I've seen some guys spray their cars with WD 40 to reduce the salt corrision problem. But the results (pro or con)I'm unsure of. It seems to me that the oil helps stick the sand/salt to the car.
6. Having a compressor or spray can air to blow out the sand from all your moving parts will help alot. Do not spray towards the motor.
7. When done in the sand take your motor apart and clean it completely.

In other words, nothing you do will stop the moisture, sand and salt from getting into the car and its parts. So enjoy the day on the beach and make sure you clean everything well afterwards.

Question, I've wondered about the bags holding heat in as well as covering the motor with plactic but without the air flow are we causing heat to develop?

:cool: island boy info.

Jep, It's looking like a winter project for me as well.

Later All:
Bill

Dan:

I'll try it. That is the best idea I heard yet. Better than plastic.

Bill