that is what i was thinking bill, (about the slipper/diff) thx. i have decided on the dirt hawgs and these RPM claws, would they fit?

p.n.e.

The Dirt Hawgs will fit on the rear, they come with foam inserts. I have not tuned my Evader enough yet to reccommend foam adjustments, maybe someone else has ideas. You will need good CA glue for mounting the tires to the rims.

I'm not familiar with RPM tires other than to hear that there good. I hope to try a pair soon. Check the fine print in the catalog for sizeing.

Bill

p.n.e. -

Any RPM rims that say they are for the Losi XXT (XX-T) or XXXT (XXX-T)will fit the Evader.

Regarding slipper and diff:

The diff distributes power to the rear wheels. It allows the wheels to spin at different rates when turning a corner, and thus maintain traction better. The outside wheel has to travel farther than the inside wheel when you turn. If the diff is locked, then your rear end will be loose, because on wheel is forced to break traction. By the way, a "locked" diff means that the wheels no longer spin independent of one another, it has nothing to do with whether the diff is slipping or not - diffs should not be allowed to slip, locked, or not locked.

The slipper clutch is to protect the gear teeth in the drive train from sudden force impacts. The slipper can also be used in a limited way to control (soften) acceleration on loose tracks, but this is better done with an adjustable ESC, or transmitter with throttle adjustments. Think about fying over a jump - the wheels can spin up to very high RPMs when the truck is in the air and when the truck hits the ground it would be easy to pop a tooth becuase of the sudden load on the dirve train. The slipper also softens the impulse load when accelerating from dead stop, or when something jams (rock or stick).

Jep

Thanks guys..

it was a lot of fun painting up the body.. i almost bought a street car last night just so i could paint up this Audi A4 body.

Jeps right. ProLine Dirt Hawgs on the rear and still running the stock tires on the front. on and he's right on the body too, HPI Baja Bug. there's a plastic motor and oversized spoiler that came with it but i like the lines better without.

p.n.e:
about wheels and tires, when i put the Dirt Hawgs on it was a pain to rip the rubber from the rims and then clean any left over rubber and glue off the rims. but the stock tires lasted 5 days:eek: . with the new tires i havent had nearly the chips or curb rash on the rims i had with stock tires. the DH's came with foam inserts that were firmer than the stock ones. i decided to use the soft stock foam inserts with the DH's to try and get more traction on the track. if your bashing i would recomend putting the firmer inserts in to protect your rims.

if only i'd known DH's cant stick to a track regardless the firmness of the inserts i woulda been better off. oh well.

Q

Oh heres another tidbit

so i havent driven my truck in about two weeks and last night i'm putting a new pinion on and i notice that the motor plate is a little loose. upon quick inspection i notice that an allen screw is missing that holds the motor plate against the tranny. then another one missing, and a third one was there but basically fell out when i tiped the truck up to look at it. they must have vibrated out since i dont see any reason for sabotage:D. but i havent taken the tranny apart yet so i thought that was odd. i got some new screws at my lhs last night but i have to grind them down a little. maybe this weekend i'll be able to run the BugX..

Q

You should always use threadlock on *any* screws that go into metal. This is especially true on nitro vehicles, but I've also had trouble with both the spur gear bolts and the motor plate on my B3 and T3.

you're right Dan. i had thought that once i take something apart i would use some sort of locktite when i put it back together. guess i was wrong cause i hadnt touched these yet. good info to know for those of you who just got your evaders. Lock it down.

i'm pretty sure this had some part in my barking nose.

to anyone who's interested
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?s=&threadid=30243

sorry if thats spaming..

Q

well i might be making a trip to the lhs this weekend to get the RPM rims and dirt hawgs. I'm also considering a new motor. Anyone have any suggestions? I want a p4 but im not sure the trany can handle it since i have heard of them busting cause of the power, plus it is really expensive! does anyone have any suggestions? The motors I'm considering are: Chameleon 2, speed gems 15T quad, caliber 10T double, and p2k2. I'm only using it for bashing and on road driving. would any of these motors have enough power to wheelie my evader?:lol: thanks.

jep , hey just installed my front hinge pin braces. these are very nice. are you working on anything for the rear? how about any other truck's?

got my modified diff back toghethor, seems realy good. i have only got 2 run's on it, but it is still has not loosed up yet, i will be doing more with it this weekend.

LAter
Mames
:rolleyes:

p.n.e.

I've heard that the first two and the last one are good motors. Don't know anything about the others. I found the Speep Gems were priced right.
Bill

Hi Mames,

Glad the brace set is working out. I have a couple of ideas in the works, but trouble finding time to produce them (I do have a real job, too). The next product I will have available is a high conductivity, all copper battery bar for making your own battery packs. Another engineer and I bought some raw copper stock, and punched and pressed a bunch of bars (about 400)- they came out very nice and solder up great. I will be making these available by the bag at about half (or less) the price of Orion or Deans copper bars. I have had other requests for rear braces - I am working on something, more news later.

Mames, what diff mods did you make specifically?

Jep
Jep-R/C Products (http://www.geocities.com/jep_rc/)

p.n.e.

i went with a Peak Racing Jaguar 17T double from the stock Photon 20T single. its been a solid motor for me and a definate increase in speed for only $24.99. i've been told not to go lower than 17T - 16T with the stock ESC and tranny. otherwise throw a battery in and start bashing.

From www.peakmotors.com

"NEW Jaguar
The all-new Jaguar is derived from Peak’s Panther series of budget machine wound motors. However, unlike the Panther, the Jaguar features an armature supported by dual ball bearings and adjustable timing. A removable endbell allows complete servicing of the motor’s internal parts."

you also mentioned you do 'on road driving'. do you use a set of street tires or planning on running the dirt hawgs on the pavement too?

Q

Any body else bending the kingpins? I have bent about 6-8 of them. Any titanium ones available? 22racer? jep? anyone?

Not sure what bends them, maybe jumping.

Q2k2, thx for the motor site, looks great! I do drive mostly onroad because i live in a cul de sac sort of thing and i bash there. My backyard is getting landscape done right now so as much as i want to run it in the loose dirt, i dont want to risk slamming it into a peg. If i get rpm rims, road hawgs and a new motor, chances are i wont have enough left over to get some onroad tires so i'll most likely use the bald stocks. maybe i'll shoe goo some treads on it or something. i've always wanted to try those paddle tires, and now with winter around the corner, maybe i could make that design on the stock?

guyver: i havent bent my kingpins yet but i have had the tiny screw that holds them come out. it is impossible to fit the allan key in there because of the angle. the screw is just sittin in a pill bottle for now.

jep,

hey my diff mod was the one you had listed.
the t2/t3 diff gear and rings in the trans.
should i worry about the slop in the diif rings.
ok that does not explain it. the t2/3 diif rings are a little larger inside diameter then the evaders and there is a little slop up and down on the outdrives where they fit, i do not see any problem with this, but had to ask?

let us know on your future developments. are you going to try any maxx parts, could use hinge pin braces for mine. and a rear toe brace.


Mames

Q2k2: Nice job on the baja! I was planning on buying the RS4 MT Baja body, but now I've seen too many others using it. I found a different one that I like even better and ordered one earlier this evening. It'll probably be just a basic paint job but I have an idea for doing something really weird with it. Details and pics forthcoming if I go through with it ;)

Bill: Thanks so much for your help lately! Sorry I haven't replied to your last email, but we had a family emergency. One of my uncles is in the hospital and just had quintuple bypass surgery. Oof!

Dan the Man: Thanks for the clarification on the B2 top shaft. I'll just stay with the one I have. I did a bit of cleaning up on mine like (pudder or jep, one of those guys) did.

p.n.e: I recently popped a Green Machine 2 Pro in my Evader. I have to cycle my batteries because they're acting up ('bout time to do that anyway), but the other night, I actually dusted my baby bro's E-Maxx when he was in high gear with my new setup. I thought it would have less torque because I didn't drop a tooth or two in the pinion, but it roars off the line. I plan to toss on a smaller pinion at least for now because the motor does get a little warm after about three packs, but as soon as it cools down (come on, cold front!) I'll go back to the one I have in there now.

Tires... I have Dirt Hawg IIs on mine right now (front and rear) and they handle pavement just fine. We race mostly at night when it's slightly damp from the humidity so I have to watch my cornering during the day. I flipped my truck about six times while playing during the heat of the day when the street was really dry. I'm planning on getting a set of cheap Duratrax medium street treads soon, but Tower's out of them right now so I'm going with a set of Pro Line Speed Hawg IIs and chrome wheels.

One thing I recently learned about gluing tires to rims... do not use thin CA glue! It sets way too fast and actually melts the inner rim of RPMs to the wheels. Once it sets, it's on there permanently. I'm going with thick CA for the next set and modifying my technique slightly.

Once I get the new body and paint it, I'm planning on making an LED light circuit so I can see my truckster when we play at night (only one street light and it's not very bright). Plus, there's that coolness factor hehehe

Has anyone here tried the speed gems pro motors? I'm gonna pick up the 9x2 for my evader (and yes, I know what that can do to my tranny). My friend set up a good sized ramp and I was using my 12x2 to go off it. I was probably getting 4-5 high and maybe going 10-13 feet. I hope to improve that with the 9x2. According to RCCA, the 9x2 spins at 51000 rpm (on the dyno). The label that came on my p-94 said it had a top rpm of 35000. Not bad for a budget motor.

kitty: what pinon are you using? how much higher top speed are you getting? thx.

Good Evening (PST anyway):

Tip of the Day: When was the last time you checked your shock oil? Changed mine last night and there was a lot of bad stuff in there. But with the new thirty wt. and new white springs I'm looking good. Question though... When your finished and before you install the springs, what should the shock look like and act like? My shaft rests about 1/2" extended from the housing after I push it from full extention to fully compressed? psych check, if that last sentence sounded sexual you need to get out more. he he he

p.n.e.,Keep those pinion numbers coming, I picked up a Bolink 48 pitch set with 19 different gear numbers. Problem though only 18 gears were in the set. Any gear counting tips out there.

Kitty, why wait for colder weather put an ice cube on your motor and by the time you have finished putting on your sun block, your cars good to go.

JB, your goals are different than mine, but for what it is worth I've had no problems with the Speed Gem 2, they go down to 10T, and cost $28.

Bill

JB, Re: Speed Gems Pro 2,

I have been using the Speed Gems Pro 2 'Kobal' 13T Double. I love this motor. The hard copper P-94 brushes last long, and the comm still looks new after about 8 runs. Tons of torque and plenty of top speed for our track. I race exclusively off-road on a track that has a little of everything (jumps, tight turns, sweepers, long straights, etc.)

Jep

What are the differences between the two? SG 2 and SG Pro 2

I found the answer. No capacitor hassels is nice. But it did not give a price. What do you set your timing at?

Originally posted by Bill Hartley

p.n.e.,Keep those pinion numbers coming, I picked up a Bolink 48 pitch set with 19 different gear numbers. Problem though only 18 gears were in the set. Any gear counting tips out there.


Bill:
where did you get the set and how much? it sounds really usefull instead of makin the one hour drive to the lhs for a new pinion unil I get the teeth right. BTW, I don't need help but that did sound a bit dirty.....I'm talkin about the old shock oil of course...:lol: j/k! I think it should rebound 3\8ths of an inch. so 1/2 is OK. Also, make sure there are no air bubbles in the shock, (by giving the piston a couple of pull/pushes) if there's no squishing noise's, then your good to go. Or else you will have to redo it. the instructions are on page 11 of the ST manual.

Thanks p.n.e.

The shock info helps.

Tower Hobbies .com, $26.99, Item # BOLC1821, item disc. 5540 48P gear set w/ rack, 12 to 30 tooth. set screws and 2 alans. The plastic, you have to put together tray/rack lables and holds everything.

The lhs is not an option for me and this lets me experiment easily.

One thing though, the gears "screw" on to the bolt holders. Will the scoreing on the gear, score or damage the motor shaft? We'll see.

Originally posted by Bill Hartley
One thing though, the gears "screw" on to the bolt holders. Will the scoreing on the gear, score or damage the motor shaft?

Bill - that certainly doesn't seem desireable. Are you sure with the set screws all the way loose that the pinions still "screw" onto the storage rack? Standard motor shafts are 1/8" O.D.(0.125"), so seems like the pinions should fit on the 4-40 screws (0.116").

BTW - Robinson also makes a nice even(16 to 26T) or odd(15 to 25T) size pinion 6-pack kit.

Jep

Good Morning Jep:

I have not installed the set screws yet. It takes about 5 to 6 turns of the gear to get it to seat on the rack. So the gear is not threaded per say just fits snug on the bolt. Which does keep them on the rack.

I'll use a couple of them today and see if they harm the motor shaft.

Thanks
Bill

Originally posted by Bill Hartley

JB, your goals are different than mine, but for what it is worth I've had no problems with the Speed Gem 2, they go down to 10T, and cost $28.



Jumping is only one goal for my evader. I also plan on racing. The only problem is that the only track is far from my house, so I end up bashing my evader most of the time. I would use my e-maxx for jumping, but my shock caps would pop off probably and create a nice mess. My evader also goes faster than the E-maxx, and that obviously leads to bigger air.

JB, correct me if I'm wrong, but doesnt the Emaxx have 2 shocks on each wheel? And a lot more clearance, I think the Emaxx would make a much better jumper, you could upgrade the shocks if needed.

Jep, I was considering the odd/even packs you were refering to, they are the only set of pinions that my LHS sells. Are they plastic or some sort of metal?

p.n.e.

Pinion gears are metal (aluminum, nickel, steel, etc.). Never seen a plastic pinion.

FYI - On most elec trucks you see metal pinion, non-metal spur, metal top-shaft, non-metal idler and metal or non-metal diff gear. Notice this keeps the contact as metal on plastic, which wears better than metal on metal.

Jep

thanks Jep, from the description of the gears I wasn't sure. Plus I think the metal on metal would cause radio interference.

JB, Whats with CA anyway, why are there so few tracks around? I've spent several weekends checking out hobby shops and looking for RC tracks. Seems like everyone has "good spots" but no one I spoke to had a local track they use, I guess I don't know the secret hand shake. I'll keep looking. Let me know of any your aware of, Mexico to San Fransisco. Oh, about the "goal" comment, what I ment was because your further along in the hobby than I the motor I'm using would not meet your needs. Just thought the positive comment about the SG 2 might help.

Jep, A 13T motor is more than I care to handle right now. I'm using the 19T and will need some more time working with it. I was wondering what Speed Gem Pro you would reccommend as a good next step.

p.n.e. & Jep, The Bolink gears worked very well. Did not score the motor shaft at all. The kit comes with tooth number stickers so you could avoid using the rack if the very slight scoring inside the pinion gear concerned you.

Happy Driving Everyone

You can't find a track in the LA area? :confused: There must be a dozen of them.

Try So Cal in Huntington Beach, or Hot Rod Hobbies in Saugus.

No Dan, I'm not as dumb as I sound. I have found several "tracks" but frankly I'm tired of wasting my time driving around just to see another chemical toilet and an electrical plug.

I was hoping to hear about tracks that welcome people, provide a fun safe environment for my family, and encourages my learning and enjoyment of this hobby.

So I'll try again, should I drive out to Saugus?

Hot Rod Hobbies is a world-class track. Racing there is very competitive. The shop is a little pricey. The Reedy Truck Race is coming up soon, which might be a good time to visit, see some serious racing action, and decide if you like it.

I don't know anything about the Ventura Roadrunners (Camarillo) or Extreme RPM (Grand Terrace) except that they're there. If you don't mind going a ways east, The Dirt in Hemet is a good place, though they're more for nitro. If you want to see 1/8 buggies flying supercross jumps, it's the place to be. North, Showtime in Bakersfield is also good. And you can always come up to Ridgecrest and race with me. :wave: I guarantee we're friendly, though we do have a chemical toilet.

Most tracks don't make enough money to install or maintain a lot of facilities. Often they're only leasing the land and they CAN'T put in anything permanent. This is even more true of clubs.

Busy thread this weekend.. thats great.

i got my Evader BugX running finally after a few mods and she's going quite well. i did the slipper test (holding the rear tires and pulling the trigger to see how far it comes up) and everything seems about right. although there seems to be a high pitched whistle when i'm on the throttle. not sure if my pinion and spur are too close or if its my tranny. have yet to pull the tranny apart. i've done the paper test and i can feed a piece thru but i think i shaved the tips off my spur cause it slips if i dont push the two together. i went down another tooth from a 21 to a 20 pinion and the motor is staying cooler. the 21 was a little to far of a stretch.

building a mini track in my back yard. got the first set of doubles built last night. when these blisters heal and my back feels better i'll build the next jump.. probably a step'up. :D

Q

Thank you very much Dan. I realy do appreciate it. Bill

Glad the slipper and diff tests helped some of you out. Sorry I forgot to warn about trying the slipper test too long or too often. It is a strain on everything but it is the quickest way to get the slipper set.

I've been out of town for the last week and had to do some skimming of the thread to catch up.

Servo Savers. They are a must-have for plastic gear servos. The Kimbro saver is a better saver than the Traxxas. The Traxxas spring goes weak quickly and makes steering seem mushy.

For what it is worth I used a Hobbico CS-71 metal geared servo in my T-Maxx for over a year without a servo saver. When it finaly failed it was not the gears that went. The potentiometer that tells the logic board where the arm is pointing went bad and the output gear continued around and tore out the stops molded into the servo case. 132 oz/inch of torque can do some damage to the insides of a servo case. :lol:

Anyway the next time you replace your servo or just the gears look into metal gears. You might be able to do without the servo saver all together.

One last thought:

A barking noise is a diff. (Not good)
A whistle is a slipper. (Not bad)

Thanks Bob.. that relieves some stress about the whistle.

i'm not sure if my batteries need to be cycled or if my motor is loosing some of its pep..

what can i do to the motor to for lack of a better word "rebuild" it.

fyi.. i've heard terms like Com and what-not but i dont know what they are.. so the more simplistic explaination would be appreciated.

thanks
Q

Rebuilding a motor -

1. Take it out of the car and take off the pinion (duhhhh)

2. Unlatch the springs and pull them off. Pull the brushes out of their hoods.

3. If it's a mod motor, take note of the timing. Loosen the 2 philips screws that are on either side between the brush hoods. Don't unscrew them all the way, just until they spin free.

4. Lift up on the endbell. On a stock, if it doesn't pull out far enough to clear the timing notches, loosen the screws just a little more. Rotate the endbell and pull. There's a retainer ring under the endbell with some notches, and tabs on the inside of the can that need to line up. Then it'll pop right off.

5. Pull the armature out of the can. Save any washers on the shaft, upper or lower, and be sure to put them back where you got them when you're done. Give everything a good bath with motor spray. If it's a mod motor be sure to clean the bearings. Check that the bearings or bushings aren't worn out, siezed, etc.

6. Have a look at the commutator. That's the copper part that the brushes ride on. Chances are it's pretty nasty. Find someone with a comm lathe and have them true it. If they race they may give you a lecture about how you shouldn't let it get that bad. Don't ignore them, but remember that they're thinking of going as fast as possible all the time.

7. Put the arm back in the can (with the washers!) and put the endbell back on. Make sure you rotate it back to where it started. It's embarassing to have your car take off backwards because your timing is reversed!

8. New brushes and springs. Oil the bearings or the bushings.

There you go.

If you want to get good performance out of your motor but don't want to be troubled with taking it apart and having it cut, buy a commutator stick. It's a block of polishing compound that fits in the brush hood. Use it to clean the oxidation off the commutator after every 3-5 packs.

I have a ton of motor info on the Team RCV site. Here are af ew places you can look for info:

RC Motor Black Book - http://teamrcv.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=Sections&file=index&req=listarticles&secid=3
RC101 - http://teamrcv.com/search.php?query=&topic=11
Motor Info - http://teamrcv.com/search.php?query=&topic=6

Thank you Gentlemen,
i'll try to give this a try tonight.

Q

You will hear this term a lot until brushless motors become the norm. I wrote an article for Hank some time ago on how to cut a comm. http://teamrcv.com/article.php?sid=10

Hank added a few good point about safety to the article. The pics and instructions will give you an idea of what is involved in a comm cut.

Even if you don't have a comm lathe to cut your own you can see what it means and why it helps a motor.

The main benefit is to keep your brushes from bouncing. When an uneven comm bounces brushes they loose contact with the motor and the motor looses power.

You can prolong motor life between cuts by using a commutator cleaning pen. The best ones are actually fiber glass pens used for cleaning resin off PC boards after soldering. You can find them at Radio Shack. Or you can go to your local hobby shop. Trinity repackages the RS pens as comm cleaning pens. Caution: you will pay twice as much at the LHS as you will at RS.

Remove your brushes and insert the comm pen in the brush hood util it contacts the comm. Spin the arm in its normal rotation. This will clean much residue from the comm. Clean off the ends of your brushes as well. Spray the motor clean with motor cleaner. Let dry.

Oil motor bushings.
Do not oil brearings. It only attracts dirt. Dirt kills bearings.

That's the only thing that Dan and I disagree on.

If you run on-road it is not as big an issue.
If you oil your bearings from inside the can and clean off all excess oil it helps.
The best way to care for bearings is to brush off the dirt. Compressed air and motor cleaners can force dirt into bearings shortening thier life. If you do oil your bearings be sure to wipe off the excess.:thumbsup:

For more tips on motor and battery maintenance check out my website: http://drive.to/grayghost
:dude:

Originally posted by BobT
Oil motor bushings.
Do not oil brearings. It only attracts dirt. Dirt kills bearings.

That's the only thing that Dan and I disagree on.

If you run on-road it is not as big an issue. If you oil your bearings from inside the can and clean off all excess oil it helps.
Yes, that's what I do. But I've been reconsidering it lately... been having an awful lot of trouble with stuck bearings. I may try it your way, or find some other way. For instance I have some bike-chain lubricant with a waxy consistency that sloughs off dirt. I don't know if it'd work on bearings or not but it's worth a try.

Q, I had the same problem and it was the spur gear teeth getting worn. Time for a new one. What motor are you working on?

Dan, When is the Reedy Truck Race. Would you mind putting all the race dates your aware of on the Hanks new Calander? I understand there is one out in Simi Valley this coming weekend.

Bob T, Nice site, you have. Bearings - oil or not to oil. I'm currently an oiler, but you make some good points. I use a compressor to blow the dust and dirt out of the motor (and car)after each run and service the motor after each days use. I'm sure the air and motor clearner are coming in contact with the bearings. Will this cleaning process degrade the bearings? If so, wouldn't the reoiling help reduce the bearing wear? Do you also not oil all you vehicles bearings?

After everything is dry I put a drop of oil on the motor bearing and work it in by spinning the motor by hand. Then I wipe the excess oil off. Thanks for the tape trick.

Thanks,
Bill

Hey Bill,
i think i'll pull the photon 20T apart first to check it out and practice but my 17T Jaguar is the one that really needs it. i've run probably close to 15 packs on it and i've never done anything but put oil on the arm ends. probably not something to be put on a best practices Thread. :(

until recently i havent had a place to work on my stuff but i just set up a work area so hopefully these practices will change.

Q

ps- i'm sure its time for a new spur too.. not sure if i'll just get the same size or if i should change it.. i'm pretty happy with the torque and top end so i'll probably play it safe and keep it the same.

any suggestions on what type, material or size?

Morning Dan:

Great post on motor rebuilding, thanks.

What type of bearing are you using? Would you treat different types of bearnigs differently, sealed, teflon, serviceable types, etc?

Hi Q,

Before you start get some new brushes for each motor and a comm stick, you'll need them. You'll need to do some soldering, as well.

Bill

Q, I've only used the stock Durtrax spur. I've got and will try soon a Bolink Spur Gear. I'll let you know what I think, for what it is worth. B

Bill,

I oiled the bearings on my first RC (Losi XXCR buggy)after spraying them (thought I was cleaning them). I had to replace all my hub bearings within two months.

From that time on I have only brushed them clean. I use a compressor to blow out my chassis but try to avoid hitting the bearings directly. I have had to replace a total of three bearings in my Triple-X and Triple-XT in the last three years. I plan on keeping to the regiment I am presently using. ;)

I stick with what works for me.

I've heard about the bicycle lube. Sounds interesting. But my spur gears last pretty long just keeping the gear cover on.

The only time I lube gears is when I replace the internal tranny gears. I use just a drop of Losi Hydra-drive fluid on each of the three gears. This is just to lube them until they break in. My trannies have always been smooth and quiet.

Q2k2,

The best thing about mods is not having to lube the bearings. After 15 packs you can count on needing new brushes. If you have access to a comm lathe get it trued as well. If not start cleaning your motor after every race or play day.

If you don't have a lathe stick to soft brushes. They are easier on the comm. High silver content hard racing brushes leave a black residue that is hard to remove and wear the comm quicker.

Its better to replace your brushes more often then replacing armatures.

;)

Bob,

Thanks, I think I will change my approch. At least stop using the compressor to clean my hubs and motor bearings.

I can see now how I was creating my cleaning problem. Clean, reoil, attract dirt (where the oil is), clean, another never ending story.

But after I clean the motor with RC motor cleaner the bearings sound dry. Oil only from the inside? Thats a lot of work.

Bill