Jerrit,

A comment on your earlier post and question about ball studs. I have had the rear right shock tower ball stud pull out, and one of the front hub carrier studs pull out. This didn't happen until I was running the truck on a very hot humid summer day - it might of been coincidence, but maybe the Stress Tech softened a bit b/c of the heat? I just glued mine back in place with JB Weld and haven't had a problem since - this was the cheapest solution for me. I have seen some use the long shanked ball studs in the hub carriers and put a nut on the backside, but this won't work for the tower studs.

Jep

DOH!! I thought for sure I had the Bulkhead Brace set in there.

I will add it and re-post...and correct some spelling errors.

If anyone has more to add to this please post, I will add everything that has been tested and seems to work well on the Evader.

One thing I will add is a mention that the stock ESC seems to be able to handle down to a 17 turn even though towerhobbies.com says only down to a 20 turn motor.

I will add a link to the Duratrax Evader page with their list of upgrade parts too.

also, thanks for the ball stud info Jep, I will try the longer ones with a nut where possible and JB Weld the others.

Someone mentioned an aluminum or metal steering servo arm, will it fit the stock airtronics servo? where can I find this, nothing found on towerhobbies.com

Thanks,

Jerrit :wave:

Hey Jerrit,
you might be refering to my post about the medal geard servo, but the arm (or horn) is plastic. its just the gears inside and the one extending out that the arm attaches to that are medal.

hope this helps

Q

Here's a question for Yaw'll.

Are the frequency crystals interchangable? for example, are the crystals in the reciever, the same as the transmitter? or are there specific transmitter crystals and Reciever crystals?

i have some misc sets crystals that were given to me and i havent been able to get any of them to work. i know the frequencies are the same but only now have i thought maybe the reason they dont work is because i have the reciever crystals in the transmitter and visa versa.

anyones input is much appreciated..

(i need coffee)

Q

Q2K2, it is my understanding that the crystals are specific to the Tx and Rx and are not interchangeable.

Also some brands of crystals cannot be used in some brands of Rx & Tx.

You cannot put a FM crystal in an AM Rx & Tx (I'm sure you knew that)

And I'm not sure if you can put 75mhz crystals in an Rx & Tx that was made for a 27mhz crystal.

Jerrit :wave:

Q2k2
I think the Evader is a fine truck.......for the money. I have had my T3 since Jan. '02 and have not broken one part on it. Granted, I pretty much only run it on indoor groomed tracks, but it has seen more then its share of ugly wipeouts.

Q2K - regarding Crystals,

The Tx and Rx crystals are not interchangeable. If you look at the little paper labels, you will see an Rx or Tx marking - the receiver crystals are actually at a slightly different frequency offset from the main channel freq. Here are the frequencies for the 27MHz AM channels:

Ch Color Tx Frq Rx Frq
1 Bwn 26.995 26.540
2 Red 27.045 26.590
3 Org 27.095 26.640
4 Yel 27.145 26.690
5 Grn 27.195 26.740
6 Blu 27.255 26.800

Most manufacturers crystals for the 27MHz AM bands are interchangeable. I have used Futaba, and Traxxas AM crystals in our Evader. You just have to use Tx crystals in the Tx, and Rx in the Rx:)

These same general rules do not apply to the FM channels and higher freq AM. They are more manufacturer specific, and of course you cannot interchange FM with AM, nor high freq bands with low freq bands.

Jep

Jerrit - Regarding Aluminum Servo Arms,

Here are some links for some nice aluminum servo arms:

Futaba Aluminum Servo Arms (http://www.swbmfg.com/page-fut.html)
Hitec Aluminum Servo Arms (http://www.swbmfg.com/page-hi.html)

If you need the normal nylon and plastic replacements for Futaba or Hitec, I like www.ServoCity.com (http://www.servocity.com)

Jep

hey guys.. thanks for the briefing on the frequency crystals..

you could say its 'almost' Crystal Clear :thumbsup:

Ha..

Q

And stop calling me Crystal :lol:

I know, I know...keep my day job.

Thanks for the URLs Jep, I will be buying them if I end up breaking another plastic arm (I just ordered one 10 minutes ago) :rolleyes:

Thanks,

Jerrit :wave:

Ha ha.. i'll keep my day job too..

by the way.. big fan of the Airwolf image.


here's an image from saturday at some BMX Jumps at Greenlake Park, WA

Very cool pic.
The air wolf pic is a standard in the Avatar section.
I want to put all my R/C vehicles in a gif but I don't think they will fit.

Here they are:
Traxxas Nitro 4-Tec :devil:
Ofan Ultra MBX 4WD nitro
Duratrax Evader ST elec
Associated TC3 elec
Traxxas Stampede elec

want:
Kyosho Mini-Z w/Ferrari F-40 body
Serpent Impact M2 4WD Nitro
Traxxas Tmaxx 2.5 TRX Nitro
Mugen MBX4 Nitro

Jerrit :wave:

Damn nice selection of RC's

i'm debating between a TC3 or a Stampede next. Suggestions?

(2) Tamiyia Hornets
(1) Evader ST
(2) Boats

i let my nephews wreck havic on the hornets and boats but i think one of the Hornets has finally met its demize (chassis Toast). so this week i might gut it and put the goods inside one of the boats for fun.

should at least be interesting

i'll post results.

jerrit1, where do you race?

Q

Thats spooky. I have the Evader ST, Super Hornet, and Stampede (elec.).

My impression of the stampede is that climbs very well. Watched my son take it out of the box new and he climbed a natural rocky 45 degree plus slope for about 30' then make a turn and walk it back down the slope. Tried it with my Evader and got maybe 3' before it lost traction and slid back down the hill. Being a heavier than the evader makes me faster and I get more time out of the batts. Moves out OK but needs a better motor. Servo is boo. Lots of up grade potential. Nice truck.

I've been talking with Patcollins in the Monster Truck section about the pede. Maybe you and Jerrit1 would like to join us.

I used to have 2 Tamiya Hornets too, great little cars for the time, I raced them when I was about 14yrs old, I couldn't afford the RC10 at the time, which was the king of buggy racing. :-)

JB_The_Evader, I race at RnL in Kalamazoo, Michigan.
I live far away from you guy's.

Jerrit :wave:

EVADER INFO:
------------

1. Use White (soft) springs F/R and 30wt shock oil F/R.

2. Replace the foam inserts in the rear tires with harder ones.

3. put a little heat shrink on the u-joint covering the pins in the dogbone.

4. Stock class is the best place to start racing, get a P2K2 Pro motor or a Green machine 3

5. Adjust that ball diff and slipper clutch per the maunal.

6. Evader ST Gear Ratios:

Outer: 4.88:1 (Stock Spur gear and Pinion)
Internal: 2.66:1 (Transmission only)


Common failures (bring spares)

1. Ball ends will pull out (strip) from the rear transmission brace
(Rear Aluminum Transmission Brace, $27 TowerHobbies.com)

2. Ball ends will pull out (strip) from front bulkhead.
Use long shanked ball studs ($3 TowerHobbies.com)

3. Steering servo arms break ($3 TowerHobbies.com)

4. Front and rear stock wheels crack easily ($6 pair TowerHobbies.com)

5. Jep-R/C's Alimunum bulkhead brace set ($6.99) (very cheap insurance)
http://www.geocities.com/jep_rc/products.html

6. Hitec high-torque ball bearing ($29 HS-605BB) or metal geared ($39 HS-645MG) steering servos.
http://www.servocity.com

7. Cushioned front bumper (XX, XXT), part # 73712 ($4)


Notes:

1. The XXT and XXXT Matt Francis edition bodies fit perfectly and look nice

2. Use Pro-line wheels and Edge tires or Pro-line Gladiator tires and move the bottom of the front shocks out one hole to give more steering.

3. Losi XX/XXT servo brace (grind the long towers down a little)
(LOS A4110 $6)

4. Losi XX/XXT Aluminum upper servo brace by Trinity. ($30)

5. If you are running a 13 turn (mod) motor you should be using a 17 tooth pinion. 13 + 4 = 17 (4 teeth over the wind)

6. The Evader ST uses standard spur gears that fit the RC10T3

7. Here is a tip when rebuilding diffs:
Take some fine sandpaper (600 grit) and sand the face of the diff rings. This will allow the diff the break in faster and give it smoother action

The Losi B2 diff gear fits but must be used in conjunction with the Associated diff rings. Stock Evader diff rings are too short to grab the diff balls.

8. Clicking noise in the tranny, take apart and re-grease the diff gears and glue one end of the idler shaft.

9. Check the ballance of the slipper and diff as follows.

Remove the gear cover.
hold the right rear tire and spur gear so they cannot turn.
Try rotating the left rear tire as though it were moving the truck forward.
If the slipper is giving (rotating)and the diff is not slipping you are good to go.
If the diff slips before the slipper loosen the slipper until you get the right ballance. Tighten the diff only if nessasary. Be careful not to overtighten the diff and strip the nut. The diff should be tight without making the diff action too tight.


(This is a living document, last updated 9/16/02 by Jerrit Tyler)

Jerrit,

I posted a correction in the Evader Motor... thread. I have an idea - I will start a new thread called "Jerrit's Evader FAQ" and repost your list there. Then we can post suggestions and corrections to that thread and leave these discussion threads open for other issues. Does that sound OK?

Jep

Yup, that sounds great

Jerrit :wave:

Am I the only one, please post:

1. your broken parts list
2. Where you run (race track or back yard bash)
3. When you bought your Evader ST

Also, if you own a Losi or Associated stadium truck can you compare your experiences.
The Evader is my first stadium truck and I wonder if I really am supposed to go home from the track with a broken part before I've used up my second battery pack every time.

I've had many problems with my Evader ST I bought new a month ago.
I haven't raced it yet due to reliability issues.
I run it on the indoor off-road race track on practice days only.
It is not a particularly harsh track, jumps are small, I guess the Evader is just delicate?

So far:

Broken Hub Carrier
Bent king pin
Broken steering servo arm
Stripped ball end from rear transmission brace
Stripped ball end from front bulkhead
Had to rebuild the ball diff (stripped gear)
Cracked wheel
Lost 25% of the pins on the rear tires

If I bought a Losi or Associated would I no longer have these problems?

Thanks,

Jerrit :wave:

Hey Jerrit.. your not the only one.

The Evader ST is my first Stadium truck too. had it about a month and to date have not raced it because of unreliability just like yours. maybe its my driving skills, but i'm lucky to get thru a couple packs before breaking 'something'. i drive both on BMX tracks and an indoor off road track thats almost as hard as concrete.

Heres my list:
(1) Broken Hub Carrier
(3) Broken steering servo arms
(2) sets of Steering servo gears (now have medal, no problems so far)
(2) Stripped ball ends from rear transmission brace
(1) Stripped ball end from front bulkhead
(1) Stripped rear shock shaft
(4) Cracked wheels (each rim has several chips out of the side)

Original rear tires lasted me.... all of 1 week. now Proline Dirt Hawgs on the rear. Great for bashing, HORRIBLE on a hard pan track. i put softer foam in the rear tires in hopes of more traction but i fear it only made my rims more susceptible to breakage

Also, not real critical but both my ESC and Receiver have detached from the chassis and had to reglue them back on.

i think that about sums it up..

OH! my last run ended with some major clicking in the rear end.. havent investigated yet so i'm not sure if theres a rock inside the motor or what. i'll let you know what i find upon dismantlement.. (is that a word?)

Q

Jerrit, do you prefer the indoor track or outdoor track. I was on vacation to visit some relatives last month in Michigan (they live just outside the town of mendon). While I was there, I checked out Rnl hobbies and picked up a few things. The outside track looks really nice! As for the shop, I like the way it has a bunch of trucks just sitting out.
I mentioned mendon earlier. Do you live anywhere near it?

Originally posted by jep_rc
Q2K - regarding Crystals,

Most manufacturers crystals for the 27MHz AM bands are interchangeable. I have used Futaba, and Traxxas AM crystals in our Evader. You just have to use Tx crystals in the Tx, and Rx in the Rx:)

Jep

I use the 27MHz band on FM. I have been able to use Futaba and JR crystals in JR, Futaba and LRP (Laser) receivers with great success. I now buy Futaba TX and RX crystals to use with my JR R1 transmiter and the various receivers mentioned as Futaba crystals are about half the price of JR. :thumbsup:

JB_The_Evader, I live about an hour west in Benton Harbor, MI.

I love em both, I like running my Ofna Ultra 1/8th nitro 4WD on the outdoor track and my Evader on the indoor (when it's not broken).

Jerrit :wave:

I raced my Evader at the RnL track in Kalamazoo, MI today.
I took 2nd in B-main stock truck.
1 practice session, 3 qualifiers and 1 main.
The Evader held up just fine, she took some real hard hits from other trucks and never broke a thing, I had a great day of racing.

Jerrit :wave:

Hey Jerrit, nice going on your races!


Hey Bill,
i noticed in the Stampede Thread you mentioned a clicking noise in your Evader. I too picked up a loud clicking noise in my evader the other day. i couldnt have run it 10' after first hearing it and shutting it down. upon inspection of the rear end i noticed a rock was stuck in the gear and had TORE UP my pinion gear. fortunately they're not too expensive but the sound of that clicking nose had me more than a little worried.. i'm heading to the lhs this week to pick up a new pinion. i think i want to go for more top end now.. any suggestions on number of teeth?

running a 17Turn double in the Evader ST.

Q

Some shots from the BMX track last weekend.

this one stripped out the left rear shock... nothing a little JB weld couldnt fix.. fortunately for me cause i had 2 more batts ready.

Before i fixed the rear shock i impressed some of the locals by being able to lift one wheel in the air while i was driving. they honestly thought my truck had hydraulics. not the brightest spectators but good for a laugh.

just another angle.. it was fun being able to pop the wheel up and in a right turn at full throttle i could pop it up about 2.5 inches. looked pretty impressive, even tho i knew why.

Hi Q,

Wondered where you have been off to. I hope you are earning frequent flier miles with all this RC air time. I'm always amazed at the number of people who will stop and watch RC'ers. With just three of us out running around we will stop most people and groups that pass by. If I run the cars at camp, where I live, all 150 kids will stop whatever they are doing.

Evader and the clicking sound..... a never ending story. Three times now I've had that sound start up and three times its been a rock. This last time I did not find it until I took the trans. out of the car and the now smooth rock is sitting there. I think I going to put some foam under there to keep the debris from landing in that area and getting caught up.

Jep mentioned that the pinion gear can be adjusted up or down a couple of teeth either way without causing any problems. I'm sure a few less teeth, than your running would be fine. If your looking to really pick it up I would look to someone else with more experiance.

You have any info on BEC and ditigal servo conflicts?

Take care, and keep your seatbelt fasten.
Bill

Hey Bill,
i've been here reading but havent had much to add. unfortunately i dont have any info on BEC and ditigal servo conflicts. i was hopping someone else did so i could hear the answer myself.

and your right about stopping crowds.. its amazing how many people get a kick out of watching us drive around.. and it doesnt even have to be anything spectacular either. at the bmx track i had a crowd of a dozen or so kids at any given time. then while swapping batts and allowing the motor to cool they'd hover around and wait.

i've been fortunate enough to be a good crowd pleaser.. no major mishaps yet..

about the pinion gear.. i would think that up two teeth would give me more top end.. am i backwards?

Q

Hey

I think so, less teeth more speed. The pinion with fewer teeth will spin the spur faster. God I hope I'm right.

You might be right Bill.. and i'm in no position to argue that:D ..

heres my logic:
Front wheel drive car with smaller wheels (= to less teeth) is quicker off the line than one with larger wheels (= to more teeth). BUT larger wheels have a higher top end.

maybe if someone else wakes up and checks this thread we'll get an answer


Q

Think of it from this angle. If the pinion has 20 teeth and spins at 10,000 rpm then a 10 tooth pinion at 10,000 RPM turns the spur gear twice as fast.

Good point:thumbsup:

Q

Did you see my post about the brushless motor and controler

i did see that somewhere.. but i dont remember where.

enlighten me..:D


Q

The guy that works for me, a partner really, bought a brushless motor and controler for his Evader on e-bay last night. He plans on installing it in his ST. If he finds no problems this could be come a great thing. Better or more efficent speed and less maintenance.

Hey i'm ALL FOR less maintenance and more efficency

i'm eager to hear how it goes.

what was the size of the motor and costs?

Q

He spent $250. (he's single). The motor is the same size as our brushed motors, the controller (ESC like device) is about twice the size of regular ones. So car layout will be an issue. The motor is made by Averox (sp), I'll get the numbers for you. Try the name on google and I bet you will find their site. This matched system was designed for RC cars. Brushless has been popular with the fliers planes not cars.

Damn.. $250 seems pretty steep for the setup.. i'll be interested in hearing how it performs tho.

it'll have to be REEEAALLLY nice for me to invest that sorta cash.

i'd rather buy another truck :D

Q

If you get a top end ESC and motor, what $150 or less. Add maintenance time, comm cutting, brushes, etc. it starts to look better. But still I'm hoping to see many more rpm's and speed with no motor maint. Also I drive in a very dusty and dirty area and the closed motor is a nice idea.

Need to get to work so I check back with you later this PM. With some more info and links on this subject.

Thanks for the talk.
Bill

I'm just about out of here too.

thanks for the info Bill. let me how how the initial testing goes.

and your right.. the idea of a sealed motor sounds very nice

Q

Hi Q:

The brushless motor company is Aveox (+ .com should take you to the website) and they have made the motors and worked out the controller problems. They have the motor "RC7", and controller "L160rc" as a package deal. It's important that they are made for each other. The prices listed are coming down very fast. The site says that they sell for $330. and as I said e-bay has them for $250. all ready.:eek:

Check it out and I will be letting you know how it goes. Lots of info on the site as well.

Bill

Hi Guys,

Sorry to bud in on your thread, but i just wanted to clear something up. By going to a smaller pinion you will generate more low end torque, but less top speed. If you wish to increase the top speed of your truck, you will need to move up to a larger (more teeth) pinion.

Any word on a release date for the evader bx? I was planning on purchasing an evader for my fiance and i, but i love the look of the new buggy and think i will hold off for it.

Thanks,

Karen

Hey Karen,
Thanks for clearing up our pinion dilema.

if you havent already been checking this out you can find more information on the BX on this thread:
http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?threadid=28649&goto=newpost

and more pictures of the BX here:
http://teamrcv.com/modules.php?op=m...showgall&gid=30

if you get one be sure to let us know how it performs.. i'm anxious to hear peoples impressions of it. i may invest in one for my girlfriend..

Q

Cool, thanks for the links Q2k2. I am really anxious to hear how it performs.

Karen

Hi All:

I just had chance to get caught up on this thread and wanted to say thanks to Karen for her comments. I'm confused. Do the pinon gears change in circumference as the number of teeth changes? I'm missing something.

Anyway thank you Karen for clarify my poor responce to Q's question. I'd also like to here anyones opinion of the BX. Is it an ST with a different body?

Bill