MiguelRomero- thanks for the info. I might want to do that mod soon. right now everything is running ok. I asked about the spur gear becuase it seems my pinion gear is eatting away at the spur. Maybe i stick with the same tooth number just get a better quality spur.

Hey does anyone know if you can change out the wires of an ESC. After you install the ESC and cut the wires so they fit, if you want to install the same ESC in another car and need the wires to be longer, can you take apart the ESC and replace the wire with longer ones.???

Doc
:D

You could do that, if you have a good soldering iron and soldering skills, but that would void the warranty of the ESC.

I just did that with a Novak Tempest I got a couple of days ago. Works like new again

Check your gear mesh and the pinion's grub screw, maybe that's what eating your spur gear.

PS: Just call me Miguel...:thumbsup:

:confused:
hey every one im really confused about the evader st. some people say that they are stripping gears and frying diffs left and right where others say that with high powered motors arnt having any problems at all. my freind who knows next to nothing about rc ( but thinks he knows all ) has a evader and has had no problems at all. if i get a evader and equip it with a duratrax streak esc and a team orion rush 13x2 modified motor do you think i will have problems if i keep the slipper clutch and the diff set correctly? thanks:dude:

It appears that you have a 50/50 chance of getting a diff that works. I took the 20 turn motor out of a brand new truck and put in my 27 turn P2K2 Pro stock motor and immediately had the problem. I tightened down the diff as mentioned on this site before I ever ran the truck. I have seen Evaders run 14-16 turn motors with no problems at all, but mine can't handle a stock motor. I got a new gear case and idler from Duratrax under warranty, and it seems to have fixed the problem for the most part. I only hear the gear popping about 2-3 times a run instead of every time I hit the throttle.

It sounds like the ballance between the diff and slipper are critical in the Evader. The slipper clutch is used to spare the transmission undue abuse. Landing a jump at full throttle will tear gears up if the slipper is set too tight.

Check the ballance of the slipper and diff as follows.

Remove the gear cover.
hold the right rear tire and spur gear so they cannot turn.
Try rotating the left rear tire as though it were moving the truck forward.

If the slipper is giving (rotating)and the diff is not slipping you are good to go.

If the diff slips before the slipper loosen the slipper until you get the right ballance. Tighten the diff only if nessasary. Be careful not to overtighten the diff and strip the nut. The diff should be tight without making the diff action too tight.

Hope this helps some of you.
:thumbsup:

I think the diff problem is the result of durtrax cutting corners for lower costs. Durtrax should redo the diff and do it right.

Hey everyone,
i've been catching up on the conversations via previous postings and its nice to see the free exchange of ideas and mods. anyways, i'll keep the praise to a minimum cause your probably bored already.

i got my evader a week ago. so far so good. i've run it pretty hard without thrashing it and i've busted the steering servo arm and one of the gears inside the same servo. i also have a cracked rim and MAYBE 3 knobbies left on my rear tires. as it turns out they didnt take a liking to the off-road to on-road driving. had to adjust the slipper clutch within 4-5 packs but now seems to be running solid. and no problems with the tranny yet (fingers crossed).

i have a BMX track not too far from my place that i ran it at last friday and had the time of my life (as soon as the bike riders gave me enough space to open it up). i'm running all stock right now with plans to upgrade batteries, tires, (white)springs and shock oils first. my lhs recomended boiling parts for 1-5 minutes not hours fyi. i did so on my front arms and havent had any bust yet. tho as i said its only been a week and probably 20 batts.

i'm hearing that the sanyo cells are the way to go.. anything over 2000's is pretty good for non competing drivers. would you agree?

also, which tires are best for all purpose driving. i mainly go off road but when the inspiration strikes i'll run it around a parking lot to pass the time.


that should do it for now.. thanks, and sorry for the long post.. i'll be sure to shorten them in future

Q

Q2k2,

Tires:
I would suggest to get pro-line tires for both front and rear. Dirthawgs seem to be a popular choice for people who do a combination of on and off-road driving. I have some dirtworks and they're great for most off-road conditions, but wear easily on asphalt.

Batteries:
1500-2000 mah seem to work for me. If you non competitive, I wouldn't spend the money on sanyos.

Others:
If you are going to get the white springs, I would recomend getting a heavier weight oil. I use 30 in both front and rear. If you want a little more speed, you might want to try a speed gems 16-19 turns. (stock esc cannot handle hotter motors.)I had a speed gems ruby and sapphire 16 and 17 motors with the stock esc and it worked great. I also found that the photon needed more maintenance than the speed gems.

Good Luck!:thumbsup:

Talking Evader

Thanks 'TE'

i'll definately drop in some 30wt oil when i upgrade to white springs and i'm going to check on the Dirthawgs at my lhs tomorrow. i checked on batteries and they've got $20 1500mah Sanyos and then the price jumps up to $70-90 for anything larger. does that sound about right?

Motor:
when i'm ready to go faster (which will be soon)is there any reason i should go with a 19t first? lhs recomended going with a 19t and then working my way up to 16 (with stock esc). i just didnt know if they're trying to get me to buy more motors or if there was some reason i should work up to faster speeds. other than obviously getting comfortable with it first.

Q

I would go straight for the lower wind. I suggest a speed gems pro 17t motor. I think they are $30. I went straight from the photon speed to a 17t speed gems 2, and then to a 12x2 p-94. Just take it easy at first.

Thanks JB,
that was my original plan so its good to hear i was on the right track. i'll invest in a front bumper before upgrading the motor for obvious reasons. suggestions on which bumper to get? also wheres the best deal on good fast batteries online?

last night i built a jump in the back yard with plywood and saw horses. it was about 2.5' high with a landing ramp approx 5 feet away with nothing in between. no room for error:devil: . i'll post some pictures when i get'm back.

Q

As far as I know, nobody makes wide evader bumpers. You could get a bumper from RPM and drill your own mounting holes. They make bumpers for the traxxas trucks, the xxx-nt, and maybe others. Just pick one you think would work and get out that drill!

Will do..
i'll let you know what i find. tried also to contact Jeff (Jep-R/C) to see if he's still offering his flexible bumper.

thanks JB

Q

Pictures of the Evader BX and the new (until now secret) Nitro Evader are now on-line in my Chicago Hobby Show report in the General RC Discussion area. Or just click --> http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?s=&threadid=27687 <--- to get there! You can post your comments/questions here of on that thread.

Originally posted by Q2k2
...tried also to contact Jeff (Jep-R/C) to see if he's still offering his flexible bumper.Q

Hi Q,

I think i got your message from the Jep-R/C website, but it didn't have your email address, so I didn't know where to reply. Try sending it again and be sure to put your email address in the appropriate box. Thanks!

Jep

Q - I sent you a reply. I got your email off hobbytalk. There was a problem with my webpage script. It is fixed now, sorry for any inconvenience. Check your mail :)

Jep

that nitro evader looks pretty cool. duratrax has finally gotten the evader bx and delphi racer on their web page. i think i was one of the first to see it because last night at 11:59pm i was looking at the evader st and all of a sudden it brought me back to the main page where it showed the bx and delphi. hankster, do you know when the nitro evader is going to come out?

Howdy all. After much searching i just purchased a new Evader off of Ebay for less than a c-note ;). one question I have is about the treatment of the stock parts. Should they be boiled and for how long? And does this need to be done periodically or just once? Thanks in advance for any input you may be able to offer. :)

If I remember correctly they said the Nitro Evader should be available in Nov.

You should only need to boil the parts if you know you have defective plastic (which you probably don't) or you have to run in cold temperatures. The more you boil the plastic, the more flexable. If you do boil your parts, check them every 10 minutes to make sure they don't turn into rubber.

When braking in the diff, how tight are you supposed to tighten it? I just want to know in advance, so I don't have to wait for a reply after I get the rebuild kit.

Jep,
Got your email. thanks for the tip on the bumper and i'll be sending you a money order for the brace.

Skydiveva2k,
my lhs recomended only boiling parts 1-5 minutes. i would recomend just driving it and boiling any replacement parts you get. this is what i did and the replacement parts have aready taken more of a beating than the originals with no breaks.

everyone else...
my lhs has a double set of 2400mah Orion batts for $49.99. anyone have experience with these. any insite would be much appreciated.

Thanks
Q

Oh, and great news for anyone in the Tacoma/Seattle WA region. A new track just opened in my area and i just happened to drive by on friday and got to run my Evader around on the very first day. my super bald tires peformed like greesed slicks but it was still a blast. i made it thru two packs before stripping more servo gears. afterwards i upgraded to medal gears and a set of ProLine Dirt Hawgs. oh well, its only money.

Q

Are you writing about the new Tacoma R/C Raceway? If yes, he has it open already? I am out of town right now but will check it out when I get back.

Olin:
yeah TRCR has reopened. scott opened the doors to the public last friday. i was back again last night and i think you'll be happy with the setup. i've heard people say the track is a little shorter than the old one but its well constructed. i've attached a line drawing i put together this morning to give you an idea of the layout.

maybe i'll see you there. look for the only guy running an Evader(silver). havent seen another one there yet.

new address
48th and Adams
(two blocks off South Tacoma Way)


everyone:
last night i upgraded to 2400 Packs and a 17turn Jaguar from Peak Racing. lhs recomended it over the speed gems. only $24, dual ball bearings, adjustable timing, less maint, fully servicable. what i liked (aside from the price) is that it looks to have better ventilation to keep it cooler than the speed gems.

i'll let you know how it performs.

Q

Here's a picture of my Evader for those of you who might wanna check it out.. new body in the works. pick doesnt show new ProLine DirtHawgs.

Q

Nice ride Q2k2.:thumbsup:

Thanks Besplatna :D

I just dropped my 17turn Jaguar in during my lunch break and ran it around the parking lot.

Whoa!

Serious damages to ensue. :eek:

Q

TE

tighted the diff so it is possable to slip but not very easy. It worked really well for me, it is really smooth!!

I’m building a discharger and was curious if the rate at which you discharge is important?

I have a selection of H4 bulbs, standard double filament bulbs, LED's and I also thought of using some mini 12V fans as dischargers/coolers.

I’m envisioning a box with two fans, one side pushing and the other side pulling. Placing the used battery inside and plugging it in and closing the box. What’s left of the battery will spin the fans and cool down the battery. I would also have at least one bulb hooked up to pull that last bit of juice when there’s not enough left to spin the fans.

Anyone’s thoughts on this?

Q

Hi Q2K2 -

If you are using your discharger to condition batteries by cycling them (charge/discharge/charge, etc), then you generally want between 10 and 20 amps discharge rate ( maybe up to 30 if you are using high-end matched packs).

I added a switch on mine that also creates a 2amp discharge rate. I use this to carefully take packs down to cut-off after each run.

Make sure your discharger cuts off at between 6.0 and 5.4 volts, and no lower. If you take a pack down much below that, you run the risk of reversing the weakest cell which will kill it in no time.

Hope that helps.

Jep

Thanks Jep,
yeah that does help. heres another question for you. if i'm using the light set up how do i know when to unplug? when the lights are dim but not out?

the fans i have pull about .2 amps per fan. obviously lights would have to be added to increase the pull.

Q

...how do i know when to unplug...

It really is worth investing in a cheap voltmeter from radio shack. You do not want to over discharge a Nicad pack, or you will kill a cell without blinking an eye. Use the voltmeter to monitor the pack voltage and pull the plug when the pack is in the range I mentioned.

You could also invest in an auto-cutoff relay, or there are some wiring diagrams for one on the web (I'm too lazy to go Google right now).

Jep

so if you discharge 'too' far and a cell goes bad is that pack then Toast? or is there any way to bring it back?

Q

Q2k2
I ran with the gas guys last night at Scott's.(cough cough)Fuzzie's are no longer the tire choice. I was sliding around like an air hockey puck!
The other guy there, I think his name is Chris, said Holeshots hook up well. I'll keep an eye out for your Evader. I have some Evader parts you might want. I scrapped my Evader after a month because of idler and diff problems in favor of an FTT3. I put the Evader shocks and a few other parts on my daughters Rustler but still have all of the frame and tranny parts. They are like new. Also have a couple of yellow hop-ups. I'll start putting them in my box and keeping an eye out for you. BTW my T3 is currently yellow with Pennzoil markings. What do you think about the drivers stand? It seems too high to me. I can't judge the technical doubles from the bird's eye view. Maybe I'll get used to it.
olin

Originally posted by Q2k2
so if you discharge 'too' far and a cell goes bad is that pack then Toast? or is there any way to bring it back?
Q

You typically locate the bad cell and replace it. This can even be done with stick packs by disassembling them and rebuilding as side-by-side. There are a few zapping methods that can partially revive a cell that has been reversed, but in my opinion once a cell is killed from reversal, it should be chucked - it will simply never be the same.

Side Note: "Cell reversal" occurs, when the weakest cell in the pack reaches cut-off first, as the other cells discharge further, they force current through the cell that is fully discharged, and actually cause a reverse voltage to appear on that cell - this causes a chemical reaction in the cell that eventually damages the cell.

Another side note: Don't be confused with various Nicad FAQs that talk about taking cells down to zero volts. The *only* way to do this properly is to take the pack to cut-off (about 0.9 volts per cell, or 5.4V for a 6-cell pack) and then short each individual cell with a resistor. I personally have not seen any proven benifit from this practice, and never "zero out" my cells.

Jep

Hi Olin,
yeah i would agree that the Drivers stand is a bit high. i've been having a real hard time with the track and partly (like you) because of tires. i put some Proline Dirt Hawgs on and they work GREAT for outdoor bashing but on the track my @ss end slides around like they're on skates. next payday my evader gets new rear rims and tires. i'll look into HoleShots. how does your T3 compare to the evader? i may upgrade in a month or so too and already looking at my options. seems every time i go to the track i'm breaking something. fortunately nothing major but still (servo horn, 4 steering arms, hub holder, and both my ESC and reciever have ripped from the chassis and had to be glued back on)


Jep,
thanks for the continued schooling on batteries. i'm going to check out radio shacks voltage meter selections this weekend and see about hooking it up to my discharger.

Q

So if you discharge more than 5.4 volts, you might damage a cell? I have been discharging until 2 volts. Thanks for the info.:eek:

Yeah I did that with one of my packs, luckly it only damaged one cell.:thumbsup:

Originally posted by Talking Evader
So if you discharge more than 5.4 volts, you might damage a cell? I have been discharging until 2 volts. Thanks for the info.:eek:

Yup - with the really good cells (like the Sanyo "RC" series)or closely matched packs, you can often get away with lower discharges, but with general basher packs, you should stick to the 0.9V per cell rule (5.4V for 6cells, 6.3V for 7cells). You packs will thank you for it.

Jep
Jep-R/C Products (http://www.geocities.com/jep_rc)

Originally posted by RS4MT
Yeah I did that with one of my packs, luckly it only damaged one cell.:thumbsup:

If you damage one cell, the whole pack is toast.

Originally posted by Talking Evader
If you damage one cell, the whole pack is toast.
T.E. - Why not just replace the one damaged cell? Worked for me several times.

Jep

I know it will work, but not as well as it did before the cell died. I don't think mixing old cells and new cells is a good thing. It is better just to get a whole new pack.

i disspute that, i have done it alot and it does not affect the preformance, all you need to know is how to do iit right.:D Back to The Evader Owner's Discussion.

Back to the Evader Owner's discussion.

Hi guy's, been reading the info in this thread and compiled what looks like the most important things for a first time Evader owner to know and/or consider, sort of a Evader FAQ if you will.
I will post it right afert this post (look below).

I have had my Evader for about 3 weeks now, bought it new from TowerHobbies.com
I have ripped out a ball end from the rear shock tower twice, broke the servo arm and cracked one of the rear wheeles.
I run my Evader mostly on the indoor off-road race track on practice days at my LHS but have not raced it yet due to it's unreliability problems.
Also my LHS does not sell the Evader so parts are via mail order only.

I had the diff clicking problem everytime I hit the throttle but it went away after some diff adjustments, I still don't know if the diff is set right.
When I set my rear diff to 1/8 turn out and I turn one rear tire by hand the other wheel turns in the oposite direction like it's supposed to but it feels very tight (binding), I have to set my diff to 3/8 turns out to free up the binding but it seems to be slipping alot. (I have the slipper set to not slip at all to test the diff)
Is that binding supposed to be there at 1/8 turns's out or not?

Also, I will be buying the aluminum rear transmission brace to cure the pulling out of the ball studs, anyone else buy this part for this reason? did it cure the problem?

Thanks,

Jerrit

TE is that not what i just saidBack to the Evader Owner's discussion. :rolleyes: :o

jerrit1, nice work, thanks. Bill

I Thank all of you guy's for this great info.

It is you guy's that came up with these great fixes.

:p :thumbsup:

Jerrit,

Very nice collection, this was long over-due:thumbsup: Eh-hem, I noticed you "forgot" to mention the Jep-R/C Aluminum Bulkhead Brace set (Jep-R/C Products (http://www.geocities.com/jep_rc/products.html)) Not as good looking as the Trinity brace, but works better and is a whole lot cheaper.

Also the RPM Cushioned XXT Bumper is a must-have:RPM Cushioned Bumper (http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/products/losi/chassis.htm#Cushioned)

Jep