flux the end of the wires and the wire holder thing on the motor. then tin the wire and put a o.k. sized glob of solder on the holder thing. then, when those have cooled, hold the wire to the glob and push on it so that A) the wire heats up and B) the glob heats up and teh wire will sorta sink into the glob. i cant really explain it that well unless im phisically there, so hopefully someone else can help you more on the subject.

I got it, thanks smojoe. It just took some patience .oh yeah and thanks for the advice on the spur gear. Glad to hear you like it. I think i might have to pick one up soon...

Doc-

remember our dicussion on the gritty diffs? i replaced the diff thrust balls, holder, and washers and the diff rings and the diff is smooth. i can also keep it looser (more "diff" action) without it slipping. just thought id post this because noone else seems to be alive who owns evaders....

does anybody know if the optional carbide diff balls are any better than the stock steel ones. I can't get my wheels to spin freely without it slipping 10 feet.

smojoe, this is true of any RC vehicle, a clean diff will always work better.

Talking, the carbine balls should last longer then the steel ones. What this means is that they should not have to be replaced when rebuilding the diff. Of course you will still have to replace the diff rings when rebuilding.

Here is a tip when rebuilding diffs:
Take some fine sandpaper (600 grit) and sand the face of the diff rings. This will allow the diff the break in faster and give it smoother action.

Cant you just flip the rings over? The wear is only on the side that rubs the balls.

Hey whats up guys. I just had a question for you about gearing, Many of you have the P-94 in your evaders, I went out and did some time trails today with the new motor i put in. I have an evader now running with the P-94 10T layered doulbe with a 14 pinion and a 88T spur gear. I also have an Super rooster ESC and using a 6 cell right now. Im definetly getting more speed than with my old motor (20t single) but I dont think I am getting enough speed. My time trials gave a 5 mph increase from 21 to 26. I would think I should be getting a lot more top end out of this motor. any suggestion why. I tightend the ball diffs and I had to loosen the slipper clutch a bunch to get it to slip right.
I believe the motor is timed at 20 degrees. well any advice would help..
Also does anyone know what the evaders transmission ratio is.

Doc-

yacking evader do not flip the rings over, that is what i tried to do but it din not work at all. I caused alot of problems.

Doc,

How hot is you motor getting? Keep on adding a tooth until it gets too hot to hold you finger on for about 3 seconds. I have a 12t layered double p-94 and I made it up past 18 teeth with 0-20 degrees timing without it getting hot.

TE-
I will give that a shot, The motor doesnt get that hot right now with a 14P, so I will try to go up another tooth. Thanks for the info.
Doc-

Guys, Im breaking every part on my evader. Whats going on. I used to praise this truck for what it can do, but now that Im really running it and jumping it, parts keep on cracking. Im not trashing it or running full speed into walls...but these plastic parts seem to be crap.
I would upgrade to aluminium but I dont want the added weight.
Any ideas of maybe parts from losi or assi that might work on the Evader, maybe some carbon fiber parts.... :confused:

help

doc-

Talking evader says that durtrax messed up on the formula when they made the plastic parts. He also says to fix the you have to put them in boiling water. I don't know if this will really halp but you could try:D

The reason why some of the evader parts broke so easily is because they were not boiled for proper flexibility. If you think you have the defective parts, boil them for 2 hours. Duratrax should have corrected this in January. Also, never run your car in cold weather, (45F and below.):thumbsup:

I tried boiling them but they turned into rubber! Don't listen to big mouth evader!!!!

Is there any way to tell the difference between the first and second generation Evaders??

Originally posted by Talking Evader
....Duratrax should have corrected this in January...

did they have the defected parts before or after that date? i got mine in december, and havent had anything break (except the usuall: steering arm, servo brace, etc..)

well not sure if I want to boil my parts if they are going to become soup. Im pretty sure I got my evader after January. But I dont want to keep buying the replacement parts. I would rather try to find something better if I can from another manufacture that will work on the evader. so are there any parts maybe of Carbon fiber (even though that breaks too) from losi that might work or maybe graphite...


errrrrrr I hate down time.....:mad:

Doc-

Originally posted by racer jj
I tried boiling them but they turned into rubber! Don't listen to big mouth evader!!!!

I only said what duratrax said to do. Don't blame me.

Doc,

Most losi xxt graphite parts fit on the evader, except for the chassis and bulkhead. If your bulkhead is breaking, try to find Jep's bulkhead brace for the evader on ebay. It's better than the one duratrax makes.:roll:

Originally posted by Talking Evader
...boil them for 2 hours...

umm... are you sure about that? 100 degrees C (212 F) and plasic dont mix for sitting in a pot for 2 hrs.

Today I ran the truck with a new motor and esc. I got me a Fantom 11x2 Team Racing motor and a Novak Dually ESC. Now this thing flies!!! is faster than my GT, wohoo !!! And the run time, 9 minutes using 3000's, geared 16/88.

On the downside, the dreaded clicking noise of the tranny returned (grrr). I was able to correct it a little bit by loosening the slipper clutch and adjusting the punch control. Still, I ran 4 packs, and that was fun!!!:thumbsup:

So that's where you been Miguel'. You got an evader. That's cool I had the 10T out today.:roll:

Yeah Grover, decided to give nitro a rest for a while. Don't have enough time to tinker with engines and stuff. I haven't even looked at my nitros for a month, even got rid of two of them this morning. Traded them for a Mod Clod :devil:

2 hours is what I heard.

I have been leaning the same way, Miguel'. I am aiming for an E-maxx, if my luck ever trades sides!:roll:

Hi all. I'm new here, although I've been lurking for a while. I've had my Evader for about two months. I'll give you a report on my truck.

Within the last week I've replaced the Duratrax 'slicks' that came with the truck with some Proline Gladiators (the original tires wouldn't hook up for ANYTHING!); I've switched the green springs to white ones and put in #30 oil. I also installed Jep RC's (Jim) bulkhead brace and added the XXT front bumper. Because the Gladiators are taller and have LOTS more traction, I moved the bottom of the front shocks out one hole to give me more steering.

I have to say the Evader drives like a completely new truck. The differences in handeling, jumping and traction are impressive. I also moved the battery cushion from the rear and put it in the front, to move the batt. weight to the rear to help with traction as well as keeping the nose up on jumps.

As for breaking parts, I've bent a front shock shaft, stripped out the hole on the rear bulkhead where the right ball stud goes, had the power switch to the ESC come off and get ran over, and finally broke a rear suspension arm. I was able to fix everything myself except the suspension arm. I'm lucky enough to live on an acre and a quarter in the desert, so I have plenty of room to play. I've even set up a little "track" for my son and I to drive on.

Now to my questions: What benefit are graphite/carbon fiber parts other than weight? Are they less prone to break? What Losi graphite/carbon fiber XX/XXT parts fit the Evader? Are they worth it? Second, what pinion would I need since the Gladiators are taller than the stock tires (with the stock Photon motor)? What pinion should I go to (with the taller tires) when I finally get a P2K2? Sorry this is so long. And please, I'd like legimite answers, not 16-yr-old "dude, this truck like flippin' rocks" replies.

Thanks!
:wave:

I'd stick with the stock pinion for gearing (the photon is geared low as it is) and with a p2k2 I would move up a tooth or two. As far as the strength of graphite, I'm not the one to ask.:)

I don't think graphite parts are worth the extra money. Only if you are real serious, but then you wouldn't have an evader. I'm not knocking the evader, we have one it's a nice beginner truck for the money. My son has a all graphite Losi Matt Francis, our spare's are the regular xxx parts. I never weighed them but I dont think theres much difference. I've heard from several people the graphite actually breaks a little easier. The duratrax plastic breaks easier than losi stuff. We put losi xx arms (not graphite)front and rear on ours. the front shock towers fit also. Your gear depends totally on how you drive it, if your in the desert and run wide open alot the stock gear or a couple teeth more wouldn't hurt. If you do alot of starting and stopping go a couple teeth smaller. If your motor gets so hot you can't touch it your overgeared.

Is There anybody having trans. problems? Just got a new evader and the idler gear has play that allows it to shift and lose contact with the diff. Making a loud grinding noise. This problem started with the frist battery pack. With no adjustmeants to the slipper or diff from the factory presets. All settings are factory settings, nothing has been changed. I tried installing shims on either side of the idler, but it still shifts too much.
Any suggestions? Temp fixes? Or others?

im pretty sure that grinding sound is the loose, factory set, diff.

22Racer said, "If your motor gets so hot you can't touch it your overgeared.
"

Yes the motor gets really hot. This will show how little I know: Does overgeared mean I would need to go to fewer teeth on the pinion, or more? I am assumimg you mean I would need fewer teeth. What would be a good start, 1, 2, or more teeth less?
And, you're right about being serious and owning an Evader--I am hesitant to spend too much $$ on it.

Thanks again.

The factory gear is fine for the photon motor. Check the motor temp after the first batt. Running consecutive batteries makes more heat if it's not cooled between runs. If the motor is too hot go with less teeth.

Smojoe,

I took the trans apart to check the diff and tightened it down, and the grinding noise still occurs. You can feel the slop in the trans case molding that allows the idler gear to shift. It is starting to wear the idler gear down just from testing it trying to fix it. I'm going to call Duratrax on Monday and see what I have to send to them to get the transmission replaced.

Another thing to do is to check your gear mesh. If it is you tight, it might make a grinding noise because of binding.

I had the motor off of the motor plate and the trans out of the truck. I could turn the outdrive quick enough by hand to get it to grind. Got an email back from Duratrax support saying that I should send the transmission it so they can evaluate it. I guess I'll send it out Monday.

heh.. "evaluate" it... more like melt it and make a new one...

Originally posted by drkicker
I had the motor off of the motor plate and the trans out of the truck. I could turn the outdrive quick enough by hand to get it to grind. Got an email back from Duratrax support saying that I should send the transmission it so they can evaluate it. I guess I'll send it out Monday.

I got the same response from Phil, of Duratrax, yesterday. How come I have to send the tranny so they can check it out, when I told them that I've replaced each and every transmission component, from off the shelf parts of my LHS???? Either the tranny has a design flaw, or the material used to mold the gears is not up to the task.

Guess I'll have to fix it on my own. Got me a B2 diff gear, which fits perfectly, little reaming of the hole in the center, but forgot to pick up the diff rings (grrrrr).

Does anyone knows if the Associated idler gear fits???

The Associated idler is 28 teeth, the evader one is 29. I haven't made any aluminum idler gears yet, (just mine) I'll have to get to it. I talked to hobby services they don't know about any problems with the transmission. Yeah right!!!!

How many teeth are on the Evader diff vs. the Associated diff? If it's 1 or 2 more than the Evader, it might work perfectly. Miguel, let us know if you try the idler with the Associated diff. and if it works or not.

Originally posted by 22Racer
The Associated idler is 28 teeth, the evader one is 29. I haven't made any aluminum idler gears yet, (just mine) I'll have to get to it. I talked to hobby services they don't know about any problems with the transmission. Yeah right!!!!

LOL!! Maybe we should all flood their mailbox with all of our stripped gears. I got seven sets here...

I already tested the B2 diff gear, fits nicely, but it must be used in conjunction with the Associated diff rings. Stock Evader diff rings are too short to grab the diff balls.

22Racer, please, if you make additional idler gears, LMK, I'll buy a couple from you $$$$$$$

Miguel,
Just to clarify, the Associated diff and idler gear work in the evader trans case and mesh correctly?

22Racer,
I'm with Miguel, there's a market for those idler gears if you want to make some. I would definitely pick up one or two.

The Associated B2 diff gear fits nicely, just need to ream a little bit the hole in the center in order to make the stock bearing fit.
I tested it yesterday, and it runs great, but, it must be used with the Associated diff rings. Stock Evader diff rings are not big enough to grab the diff steel balls, you will have to thighten down the diff all the way, in other words, lock it up to make it work. Hopefully my LHS has them in stock, I'll know for sure tomorrow.

Regarding the idler gear, from what I have read in this thread, it won't fit, it is a tooth smaller than the Evader's.

Since I'll be taking the whole truck with me tomorrow, I'll test fit some of the idler gears my LHS has in stock. Luckily I'll find something...

i too, am with miguel. i will gladly buy something to fix this danged tranny!

Am I the only one who hasn't striped the gears? My p-94 has enough torque.

I haven't stripped any gears yet. My diff is fried, but that's different...

I've thought a cool mod for the evader that has two nice features:
1:stiffens the chassis (if it works)
2:you get to put titanium on the evader! (this is one you'll like, smojoe lol)


You might be able to pick up some ball studs (Ti, preferrably) and mount them on you're evader on the chass, and then put a Ti turnbuckle link in between the two, kind of like a torque rod on 1/8 buggies (I think that's what its called)
Also, a roll cage may work. I might try one for my e-maxx, and if i am successful, I'll do one for the evader

Well, I've just installed the Associated diff gear on my Evader. Have gone through four packs, no clicking or stripping problems until now. The diff even feels smoother than the DTX stock.

These are that parts you need to pick up from your LHS if you want to do this mod:

B2 diff gear 2.40:1 (ASC9365)

B2 diff drive rings 2.40:1 (ASC9367) **very important, stock rings won't work**

Carbide diff balls 3/32 (ASC6581) **optional**

You will need to ream the center hole of the diff, in order to fit the stock DTX bearing. Take your time doing this, don't rush it, take off a little material at a time.

Regarding the idler gear, couldn't find anything that would fit.

Hey whats up guys, just checking in. I've been working my my evader now for the week nonstop. I put on some RPM slingshot wheels with Proline RoadHawgs (looks sweet. I got the truck running consisent 33mph time trials this week with the P-94 10t, 7 cell. Not too shabby. The RoadHawgs add more wieght to the truck, but the handling for on-road racing is better.
I also had that clicking noise in the tranny, so I took it apart and re greased the gears and took MiguelRomero advice and glued the one end of the idler shaft and that seemed to help so far.

But I think I am eatting away at my spur gear with such a powerful motor. I know I asked smojoe about the Robinson Absolute T2/ B2 spur gear, and he said said he like it and it worked well...

-Smojoe/anyone, is the T2/B2 metal and what tooth number would you recommend for a 15t pinion gear....:confused:

Those of you who put on the Duratrax white spings---do you have the stock number handy.....

Thanks-

Doc-

springs:
front- LXAMV3
rear- LXAMV5

as for the spur, do you mean a metal t2/b2 spur? i wouldent go there with the evader. i dont really have a good reason, just dont. get a robinsons plasic (or molded or whatever). good spurs that will last you just as long..

Thanks for the info smojoe, hey any advice on the number of Teeth for the robinsons spur gear with a 15t pinion. what would give me a good race ratio.....

thanks
Doc-

Ran 6 more battery packs last night (finished at 1:00 AM!!!). So far, the Associated differential gear is holding up just fine. Just needed a tad bit more of adjustment, but I was able to run the truck with the slipper clutch set very thight, and I also turned off the ESC's punch control. Truck lifts it's front wheels when I mash the throttle.

I took apart the apart the tranny, both the idler and diff gear are wearing just fine...

DOC2869: Gluing the shaft is only a temporary fix, as I found out. The shaft will eventually come off again. You should try this other mod. It's only about $4.00 in parts, that is $2.50 for the diff gear, and $1.50 for the diff rings. If you want to add the carbide balls, that will be $12.00 extra...

Regarding your question about the spur gear size, my opinion, you should stick with the 88 tooth stock spur gear until you max out the size of the pinion gear. I'm using 17/88 on my truck, and I run it with a Fantom 11x2 team racing motor, timing set at 5 degrees, so I think you could safely go up one more tooth on your pinion gear. Once again this is only my opinion.