Well, back to basics for this question...

What's the best masking technique? Automotive tape? Foil? Other? I'm just frustrated. I'm 2-toning a custom right now and I thought for sure I had a good hard-edge division line between the paint colors using blue painter's tape. Upon peeling it off, sure enough, the paint once again managed to seep it's way under the tape. All I want is a perfect, straight line. This is the same problem that kills me whenever I mask flames too. Airbrush, rattlecan, brush... It always seems to happen.

Every time I try to touch it up, it gets worse.

I've had great luck with automotive "fineline tape" found at most auto parts stores.NAPA is a good source because they carry painting supplies.

The FL tape comes in various widths, from 1/16 to 1/4 and 1/2.
(The 1:16 is more flexible for rounding bends and corners.
The 1/4 lays a nice edge and covers more.
The 1/8 my favorite because it does both)

The Tape cuts an edge much better because it's not as thick as domestic tapes...plus it's not paper backed

It's a semi transparent "lima bean" color that darkens a little, when total adhesion is obtained.I use a dull toothpick to rub it down, in tight, stubborn areas.

You can use your blue tape to mask the rest of your project,away from the fineline edge (leaving a little FL edge tape exposed on your crucial division)

When removing your tape,remember to pull it back over itself for optimum cutting.(like pulling a snakes tail straight over itself and over it's head)
That will prevent pulling the edge away.

Sometimes I find it's easier (and less risky) to pull off the tape right after the paint flashes,as opposed to being fully dry.

One thing I don't recommend for masking,is stuff called "liquid mask."
I have had no luck with that mess and apparrantly,only people with IQ's are able to use it.:freak:

"liquid mask." ...I have had no luck with that mess and apparrantly,only people with IQ's are able to use it.:freak:

Well, as my profile states, I certainly coudn't handle that stuff.

I'll try out the tape you mentioned. I'm tired of banging my head on the workbench in frustration.:thumbsup:

Chrome foil works really well but is kind of expensive. "Bare Metal" foil cut into a strip and burneshed down with a toothpick does a really fine job. It comes in sheets (about notebook size) and you cut it with an exacto knife. It's used by modelors to do the chrome trim on models and such. I think its about $10 or $12 bucks for 2 sheets on Flea bay (not sure on the price haven't checked in a long while) but it lasts forever, I've had 2 sheets for about 8 years now and still have half a sheet left. It just takes about a 1/4 inch strip to put on your line and then you can use just about any other tape or whatever to finish masking the area off. It works really well and I have never had a problem with paint seeping under when it is burneshed down right. It leaves a really clean line when it's removed, just remember to go slowly and pull the foil off back over itself as RobDog suggested. A word of caution though, don't buy the Testors brand chrome foil, it's total crap, you need the Bare Metal brand. As I said it's kind of expensive but it lasts forever and considering the time and frustration it takes to start all over and repaint a car I don't mind paying that price at all. Hope this helps a little and good luck...:thumbsup:

Would have to agree with 32 Deuce. I've tried it all and have always had the best results and fewer headaches using the foil. The biggest thing is learning to to waste it. :thumbsup: rr

Ok. I have foil on hand. I haven't found the tape yet. Hopefully it'll work! I'll post pics when it's painted. :thumbsup:

Just take your time and make sure the foil is burneshed down real well and remove it before the paint fully dries and you shouldn't have any problems. A little trial and error will tell you when the best time to remove the foil will be, it depends on the type of paint you are using and the dry time involved. Good luck and let us know how it comes out... :thumbsup: