I know that the best way to find the proper gear ratio is by studding lap times and how the car “feels” but I also know that with my nitro car, the head temperature plays a part in it too. Now, I also know that talking about the head temp of the nitro car and the motor temp of an electric motor is two different things. My question is: how much does the brushless motor temp play in choosing the right gear?

Case in point: Yesterday I found what “felt” like the right gear. The motor was winding out just before letting off for the corner and it had plenty of rip off the corner but the motor temp was only 105 to 107 with a temp gun. (4300) I was not able to get comparable lap times so I could not use them in choosing the gear. What would you guys do? Use the standard method of finding the gear or will these motors keep pulling more gear until they start getting hot?

In that situation I would have probably tried gearing up. If you have the sintered rotor try for ~130 if you have the old rotor try for ~150. But, the most important thing is still the lap times and track feel. Much like you don't want to be a slave to the dyno with brushed motors you also don't want to be a slave to your temp gun with BL. Also, with BL you need to make comparatively (to brushed) larger gear changes to really see the results.

Personally I don't usually go by the temp I go by the lap times or specifically how much the lap times fall off from start to finish.

In that situation I would have probably tried gearing up. If you have the sintered rotor try for ~130 if you have the old rotor try for ~150. But, the most important thing is still the lap times and track feel. Much like you don't want to be a slave to the dyno with brushed motors you also don't want to be a slave to your temp gun with BL. Also, with BL you need to make comparatively (to brushed) larger gear changes to really see the results.

Personally I don't usually go by the temp I go by the lap times or specifically how much the lap times fall off from start to finish.



Agree.

Also the experince of running on several carpet tracks of verying sizes in the last year helped most of us to build a good database of gear selection.

If you give us some track info we can try to put you in the ball park.

Sonny, don't take all my fun away from me. The "figuring out" part is where all the fun is. LOL The track is just a few feet short of being Snow Bird size and flat of course. Ozite. The ozite was taken from the Birds a couple of years ago and all but a few feet length wise was used. All of the width was used so the turns have the same radius.

Where I ended up yesterday was a 39/116 with 2.16 tires. (105 temp) What I will do this Firday is put that under the clock and then try a 41 so I can make a big change, compare the times and temps and go from there.

I feel like a kid with a new toy with this stuff............OK... an OLD kid with a new toy! This is getting to be as much fun as the Nitro thing in the summer. Beats the heck out of cutting coms and "hoping" you get the same motor back.

You guys are saying just about what I thought you would. What I need to do work under the clock next Friday evening and I will know more.

I know you guys are talking about the 4300. BUT, I ran the 13.5 class at CEFX for the first BRL race and tinkered with gearing quite a bit. Most guys were rolling out about 2.88. And that was pretty good. Motor temp was 125. But, I continued to gear up throughout some practice and qualifying rounds. I was as high as 3.14 rollout one time and the motor temp was 138. It was definitely a bit slow out of the corner, but that was the only noticable issue. I still had comparable lap times [with lower rollouts] because I was faster at the end of the straights, but slower out of the corners. I went back to about a 2.92 for the Mains.

I've ran the 4300 quite a bit too. Temperature is important to me anyway. But, if your car is not carrying alot of speed around the corner (i.e. binding up) the motor will heat up because of the extra load.

So, in my opinion, temp is important but you have to consider how it feels to. If your car is really free and can carry a ton of speed around the corner... gear up if your temp gun will allow it!

Where I ended up yesterday was a 39/116 with 2.16 tires. (105 temp) What I will do this Firday is put that under the clock and then try a 41 so I can make a big change, compare the times and temps and go from there.


Just looked at the track photos (nice place). I would suggest starting with a 43/116 with the 2.16 tires (2.57 rollout). This should get you close.

Wooooooooooooo might have been a while before I got THAT tall LOL

I would probably be around 2.65 at that track.

What kind of car or plates are you using a 43/116 in? Isn't that kind of a tight fit?

What kind of car or plates are you using a 43/116 in? Isn't that kind of a tight fit?

On a Custom Works car I can fit up to a 48/120.

I would probably be around 2.65 at that track.

same here!

A big change in brushless gearing is like 5 teeth. Sounds like you're way under geared. I am usually using about a 37-43 tooth gear with 2.16 tires and a 100 spur. I don't usually figure rollout very often, but I think that I am usually anywhere from 2.40 to 2.80.

Man!........Now I am really ancious to get back to the track! LOL Getting the gear on the KSG was no problem, there's plenty of room. If this thing pulls this gear it should be faster than the brushed 19 turn!

It will and it will be--but just keep an eye open for those young guys from the North.

They don't want to mess with us old Rebels!

The problem with that McLin is that we don't know any better! LOL!

With the new batteries and the Sintered arms keeping the motor temps down, 4300 is faster than 19t.

McLin. I will be at the race for sure. We can play with roleout when I get there.
SONNY>>>...... Don't give this man any more tips. I don't want to come home crying with my tail between my legs.

OvalTrucker......I hope you are a quick learner! LOL You coming to T Road for the race?

Jamie, If you beat me......you've just beat another old guy.........BUT IF I BEAT YOU!!!........I'll put it all over the internet LOL

OvalTrucker......I hope you are a quick learner! LOL You coming to T Road for the race?

No, I will be racing in Michigan.

Good luck to you and Jamie! In the event that you finish ahead of RHK, you can rest assured that you have overcome your gearing issues!

HAHAHAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHA.................Love the Avatar........... he is my hero also..............

that is a kool avatar now we just need one of sully.

Scott has just set the new TQ in the BRL avatar division. :D

Jamie what's up speedy.

McLin sounds like you are going to have another brushless car to play with this weekend. Here's your hint, He makes the best axle's and shocks on the market.

So I hear! Sort of ancious to see the shocks!

I'm sure that I read this some place but the Sintered rotor takes a different endbell with a larger bearing ........ right? You can't use the stock endbell.

One more! Do you guys center the rotor in the motor like you would a brushed and if so, can you take most of the end play out?

Yes McLin. You do need the aftermarket endbell with the larger bearing. There is also a ribbed endbell. Part # 5919 or 5920. I do not know what others have done, but I have centered the rotor as much as I can and took away the end play.

That is what I thought I had read. Everyone just seems to be out of them so I order one from Novak but I doubt if I will get it here in time for this weekend.

It also made since to me to center the rotor.

OK guys I have another "rookie" question. I received the Sentered Rotor and end bell today and when I put it all together I have zero end play, in fact it begins to tighten up very slightly. It spins free until I put the final "grunt" on the three through bolts. I put no shims on it at all.

wonder if they have the bearing pressed in all the way.

I have done 3 4300's and I always have used atleast 1 thin shim. The instructions from Novak say to shim only the pinion side of the rotor not to center it so that is what I have done.

Let me make sure that I haven't messed up with the parts. I ordered a Novak 5919 End Bell and a Novak 5908 Sintered Rotor. Right?

Mine and Jody Millers are the same way Lin ....I shimmed out the plastic cover on the end with wires because I didnt know what else to do ...I will check to see if bearing is all the way in tomorrow...

That is exactly what I am doing right now Humpty. I just don't see any other way. I checked the bearing in the end bell and it was seated. I don't see that shimming the plastic end would cause any problems.......neat way to shim a motor LOL

Lin double check and make sure the rotor is all the way in the bottom bearing. The magnet on the rotor is super strong sometimes it takes a little work to get into the bearing. Use the plastic tube the rotor came with to help guide it in When the cap is put on you will have about an 1/8" of end play.

THAT'S IT SONNY! Humpty, check the way the bearing goes on the rear of the shaft. Mine had a very small lip left on it from machining that was keeping the bearing from going all the way up to the shoulder.

Jumped too quick, that was not it. :confused:

I to just installed a sintered rotor,along with a ribbed endbell. Mine also has no end play,no shims either.Checked to see if it was seated in small bearing by removing plastic side endbell and it was seated.I did findthat with the big bearing that it is also alot thickerI think this is where the issue is. Does it matter if their is no endplayI dont think so,due to the fact I had no end play with the original rotor and it spins freely.I do have a question though when I was installing the new rotor it did slip out of my needle nose and hit the sensor.I went ahead and finished installing and tried it on my work bench it sounds fine and lord knows it spins fast enough.Or if it did get damaged will it only show up on the track?

I never could get any end play in mine so I did what Humpty did and spaced out the plastic cover. It seems to work just fine but I may put a very thin bead of sylicone around it to keep the dust out.

Mine has no end play with the sintered rotor and ribbed endbell. Rotor spins freely and motor is very fast! No problems running it this way at all.

Well that is good news about the end play,I really did not think it mattered. But what is you guys opinion on letting the arm hit the motor sensor fumble fingers ha ha . Like I said the motor seems to run and accelerate fine on the work bench or if it did get damaged will it only show up on the track.the instructions said it could be damaged.I would think if it got damaged it would not run at all or very slowly.

I did the same thing so I guess we will find out together LOL. Mine runs fine in the car here at home and I don't think I did any damage to it. (Don't want to make a habbit of it though LOL)

It's difficult to damage the sensor on that round PCB in the back. If the motor runs, then you're going to be ok. Just as Sonny suggested, the tube that sintered rotors come in is a tool (this is also in the directions...hint hint).

To install the rotor, remove it from the tube. Slide the tube into the motor until it is pretty far down in there. I removed the sticker from my tube and chamfered the end to make it easier. It takes some wiggling to get past the phenolic shim on the front, but it will fit without damaging anything. Then grab the end of the rotor with needle-nose pliers and install gently. Use the same process for removal, just do it backwards.

Deo what would you expect from a person from BRUNSWICK lol J/k. I installed my sintered rotor with no shims. I see the new rotors dont use the brass bushing from stock however they come pre-bushed on the rotor. I have slight end play I will see how it goes.

Hi guys,

The "No Endplay" can come from some minor problems on the rotors with one of the MNF steps. It seems a bit of material was on a handfull of of the bearing surfaces. This made them tight in the motor and take out all the End-play.

If you pull the rotor out and look at the surfaces, you'll see it. Not much you can do but send the rotor in for exchange.

If you've got any Novak questions you can always email us directly. Tech@teamnovak.com
Thanks Guys
Charlie

Thanks for the update Charlie. Personally, I don't think it is bad enough to worry about. BUT DON'T LET IT HAPPEN AGAIN! LOL

SuperXray. INSTRUCTIONS? We don't need no stinking instructions! LOL

No comment! :)

They were jokes guys!

If I am running gears 31/124 for a 19t what would be the gearing be for a 4300? Can someone get me close?

If I am running gears 31/124 for a 19t what would be the gearing be for a 4300? Can someone get me close?

Flat Track?? what size??? tire size???

If I am running gears 31/124 for a 19t what would be the gearing be for a 4300? Can someone get me close?

no sintered rotor add 3 to start if you have a sintered add atleast 5 and then based on the things Sonny asked you it could be even more.