OK guys lets see if your all knowing wisdom can help me wrap my mind around power drops.

I built my new Model Motoring layout. (Picts soon!)

Its HUGE!!!!! Its awesome!!!! Its SLOW!!!! :freak:

Its slow until you get near the power terminal tracks then it flies.

Now when I had the layout built in the tyco track, I had power for each lane and there was no problem. Now I have the M.M. track with the different power terminals, and its no where near as fast, and it get slower mid way through the course. Now I cleaned ALL of the rails and contact points on each piece of track before assembly. Dremel tool with wire wheel, fine grit sanding block used for drywall, (Its made of sponge and is not too coarse)

Now I don't have the coin to go out and buy one of those industrial sized DC power supplies. So I'm hoping I can use the extra tyco power packs or maybe buy a couple of the old school Aurora power bricks.

Now here is where I get all confused. I understand how to add in the extra power at the terminals. At least how it would be if there was a driver there. It is a four lane layout, so I have 4 power/driver stations. What confuses me is how to add in power at another point in the track.
How do I place the +/- wiring? How does the controllers allow for power control?
I have read through the postings, and other website articles, and I don't know if I have a mental block or what, but I just cannot wrap my mind around how the wiring works. Can anyone break it down in laymans terms or make an easy direction sheet?
I'm very skiled with soldering irons, and am usually very tech savy, but this has me, well, F.U.B.A.R. :confused: :freak: :cry:

Here was my solution,

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=154450

MM track has got to be the worst design out there for electrical connections. The way the connection push against each other, and therefore try to seperate, is just plain old dumb.
I built an MM track myself a couple years ago and I have terminal tracks about every 15 pieces on a four laner. I have one Aurora power pack per lane and because of the jumpers, there is even distribution of power. I simply wired the controllers and power packs into a jumper block, and then ran wires from that jumper block to every other terminal track. Of course, you have to be real careful to wire all the terminal tracks correctly. It really is pretty simple, but you can also easily cross wires, so be careful.
I would suggest wiring all the terminal tracks while they are isolated (not connected to any other track) and then testing them to see if you've got it correct.

Joe

Same thing happens with large train layouts. You need power feeds to the far end; the track connections offer too much resistance along the way.

This is what I built for my 83 foot 4 lane Tyco layout for even power distribution. One power feed every 10 feet, positioned as close to the start of all straights where possible. This picture shows 2 wall-warts per lane before my Lambda power supply and computer controlled relay was installed. They grey blocks are fuses. I followed Brian Ferguson's Accu-Tech wiring schematic for brakes and reverser switches.

http://www.supervipersystems.com/VargoSpeedway/About_Vargo_Speedway/multipowerfinish.jpg

18 ga 2 color thermostat wire works well. Make sure your left rail is negative in the normal driving direction as a standard. You'll have to solder connections under your track unless you want to try my idea for connecting wires to the rails:

http://www.supervipersystems.com/VargoSpeedway/HO_Tech/Power_Taps/power_taps.html

-Scott

I recommend applying some conductive grease on each track rail connection. Doing this along with adding some power taps will give you even power around your track.

Best regards,
Brian

Here was my solution,

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=154450

Umm that link takes you no where! :confused:

Same thing happens with large train layouts. You need power feeds to the far end; the track connections offer too much resistance along the way.

This is what I built for my 83 foot 4 lane Tyco layout for even power distribution. One power feed every 10 feet, positioned as close to the start of all straights where possible. This picture shows 2 wall-warts per lane before my Lambda power supply and computer controlled relay was installed. They grey blocks are fuses. I followed Brian Ferguson's Accu-Tech wiring schematic for brakes and reverser switches.

http://www.supervipersystems.com/VargoSpeedway/About_Vargo_Speedway/multipowerfinish.jpg

18 ga 2 color thermostat wire works well. Make sure your left rail is negative in the normal driving direction as a standard. You'll have to solder connections under your track unless you want to try my idea for connecting wires to the rails:

http://www.supervipersystems.com/VargoSpeedway/HO_Tech/Power_Taps/power_taps.html

-Scott

Looks like a big ball of spaghetti. But I think I have finally figured it out. Trying all of your suggestions with one tap for now, and seeing how that works.

Umm that link takes you no where! :confused:

Oops sorry all fixed,

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=154450

Looks like a big ball of spaghetti. But I think I have finally figured it out. Trying all of your suggestions with one tap for now, and seeing how that works.

Just take it one lane at a time...
Double check and repeat...
At least that is how I did mine...:lol:
Scott

If anybody is drop wiring Tyco track Slott V's idea works great.
I adapted Scott's idea a bit,but i use his idea of the notch ground into the rail,then fold the wire over it,but i do it at a tyco track joint,grind the notch where the 2 rails slide together,fold the wire into the notch and it locks the 2 sections together and i then solder the wire to the top of the rails afterwards.
Great idea Scott.
Rick

Or you can try this.

http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G16133

Hey that looks pretty intriguing,have you tried it.

I just got two bottles. I'm going to try it this weekend.

Well I got it all figured out. I did it the easy way. I have 4 power track pieces, so I jumper halfway around the track and slipped in the pieces and WOW what a difference!!! :roll: Now my cars can really make good use of a 8 1/2 foot long straight away. :devil:
Now I'm thinking of upgrading the power supplies. Do you guys think 4 of the old school Aurora DC2 packs would do better than the 4 tyco's I'm currently running? 1 for each lane, with a power jumper mid way around the track.
Yea yea yea I know one of the big industrial jobs would make a world of difference, but the wife would kill me. :mad: :drunk:
So take a look up in my gallery and you can see the new layout as it sits now. Its fast and a ton of fun!

Micyou03:have you tried the solder glue yet.

Add more jumpers and keep your Tyco wallwarts,nothing wrong with them,till you can swing a bigger supply.It's not the power supply that's the problem,it's the track joints,each joint is a place for increased electrical resistance,and no matter how good your power supply is,it won't overcome built in electrical resistance from bad track joint connections
Add a jumper for every 8 to 10 sections of track. :thumbsup:

I haven't tried it yet. I'll make a point of it tonight.

sweet layout!

I didn't get a chance to try the wire glue yet.

No problem,when you do try it,let us know,i'm still intrigued by the stuff

sweet layout!

Thanks! Once the holidays are over, I'm going to switch out the 6" 1/4 curves and 9" sections for wider 9'" and 12" for faster cornering. I will be adding another power drop at the beginning of the long 8.5' straight to give the cars an extra boost so they can air out. :tongue:
I'm still building in my brain my bridge over the lanes. I'm running into some separation issues where the track is flexed. I have popped the joiners a couple of times and broken 4 of them. :drunk:
I'm hoping Santa will leave a nice little jig saw under the christmas tree. It will help building the layout immensely.
So stay tuned to new additions. :wave:

Get yourself one of those reverse tooth blades for that saber saw (ahem...assuming santa brings it) and your cuts will be nice on top. ;)

I didn't get a chance to try the wire glue yet.

have you tried it yet? let us know. i am almost done with my track 4 by 15 and i have some bad connections i was thinking of getting wire glue. i just order the rubber border thanks for the info on that.

thanks
Wes