I have an old 10L2Oval car that I wanted to race on a short flat oval. I was planning on running 4-cell stock. The run line is about 80'. Let me add that I could run a better car (3 shock rear), but I wanted to just have a little fun trying to see what I could get out an older design. Maybe some of you can go back in time and give me some hints/tips for running this car.

Tire choice isn't a problem. I also have longer kingpins, so I am able to use Wolfe front springs. I also have some spare dampner tubes that I could add to this car. Ideally I want to keep this car as stock as possible. Remember, this car wasn't designed to run an offset pod. Last night I was playing around with the car on a bigger flat oval and the chassis was rolling over and lifting the left front tire. May have been due to the pink rears and high bite of the track. I can post my whole setup, but I'm mainly looking for tips since I've never run this chassis before.

Thanks for the help.

I've helped get a few new guys into R/C here locally and we found them enough stuff to put a "old school" Friction Plate style cars together.

Front end set up is basically the same as the current cars, but w/o all the fancy aluminum up arm mounts.

In the back, we make sure to have fresh pivot ball cups (I replace the 4-40 tweak screws w/ motor screws for the fine thread...they stay tighter...and allow a finer adjustment) Set them up with about the same LR weight as the 3 shock car.

I have them use a slick silicone tape on the friction plates, and on both sides of the upper plate that gives the pod movement a very smooth action. I also use a Uni-Bit and oversize the hole in the upper plate to allow more pod movement.

As far as lifting the LF tire, haven't had that problem in a LONG time, but if I remember correctly, Less Tweak, more pressure on the friction plates, Add spacers under the LF arm to drop the LF corner .100" and a Harder RF tire/Spring combo. Harder RR Tire (Maybe XX Pink or Purple instead of Pink)

...(I'd bet some of the old PRO guys could still take THAT car and beat 85-90 % of the racing fields)

I got some advise yesterday from local Indiana racer Dr. Moss. He helped me with the tweak of the car. He also suggested using thicker dampening. What is/was a good choice for dampening on the single shock cars? He mentioned getting the friction plates to work smoothly was a key as well. Where would a good place be to buy silicone tape? Another thing he mentioned was that racers have used a sway bar on the rear pod. I don't want to go that route, but would be interested to hear from anyone about how well that worked.

I actually raced the car yesterday at Indy Slots. With no real track time on this car I was happy with the results. Top 2 in 4-cell stock ran 86 laps in the main and I ran 81. The car was still a little unpredictable in the main if I didn't hit my line. My BSR tires were about 2.15 dia. with LF white/RF black/Rears pink. LF green spring/RF red spring/Center green spring. If I run again I'll try using a harder RR tire and/or RF spring/tire combo.

Since I acquired the chassis in a parts buy-out, I have very little money in this car. Only major part I had to buy was the top motor plate. Everything else I had from upgrading other cars over the years including electronics. For very little investment I had a lot of fun. Thanks everyone who has offered help/suggestions so far.

Brian "IndyRC", if you want to PM me with an address to send it to, I can mail you some stuff to try on the friction plates. I don't remember exactly what it is made of but it is some kind of thin graphite or teflon tape. I used it on my old L2O and never had to replace it for the 3 or so years that I raced that chassis. You need to apply it to both surfaces so it rubs against itself.

chad :cool:

BRP sold the Telfon tape and lube. Another choice I used was the Paragon Tweak Post, before finally settling on the Grip Master.
Seen a racer return with a L2, car setup was a little off at first but by second heat he was running 54laps in Pro stock.