Does anyone know what a good starting pinion and spur would be for a brushless motor? I searched Novaks website and they only list cars with transmissions.........I would like to run a 100 spur, but am open to ideas......from someone that actually has run one...thanks!

What motor? what size track?

Keep going up until the esc thrmals, or your lap time start to drop.. seems everyone here just gears up until they start to fall off ..

how do you know if the motor or the spedo shut down?
i am not asking you cliff. anyone else?
thanks, willis.

Ginsu, to give you an example, at our track, running stock with a monster, we run around a 2.85/1 ratio. With the brushless I am currently running a 2.59/1

What is your malfunction Willis? If I was getting whipped everywhere I raced by the same guy, I would sure as hell want to know how he does it, lolhow do you know if the motor or the spedo shut down?
i am not asking you cliff. anyone else?Also, the manual tells you by saying what lights come on in the controller. When all else fails "READ THE DIRECTIONS"
thanks, willis.

when you are racing and the car quits,the turn marshall turn the car off, then the car cools off and runs again by the end of the race, how do you know which one shut off? don't sound like a dumb question to me. if the spedo is cool will it show it thermaled?
willis.

no, it won't show after it has cooled. I know it sounds funny but it seems when I am running 6 cell the controller will overheat first, 4 cell it's the motor. That is just my personal experience. If you thermal and don't know why, pick the car up after the race and run it again till it overheats and the lights come on, then you will know

how do you know if the motor or the spedo shut down?
i am not asking you cliff. anyone else?
thanks, willis.
I'd check the motor temp as soon as you can after it shuts down usually is the reason for shut down in 4-cell anyway

mtr run a 32 or 33 100

At the BRL race last weekend I played with gearing a little. I was running the 13.5 motor. Most guys were rolling out around 2.88 - give or take a little. I ran as high as a 3.14 one time. The car was a little slow out of the corner, obviously but, was real fast at the end of the straight. It did not heat up much though. I went from 128F (2.90 rollout) to 135F (3.14 rollout). The lower rollout proved to be better even if your car was free through the corners.

With the 4300's most guys gear with a temp gun. Those motors seem to have more torque I guess. So, gear for about 150-160 degrees or so. Over 175 degrees you risk damage to the rotor.

Quick question.....when are you measuring the motor/ESC temp on them? right after you pull them off the track?

Thanks

hydroracer - yes, I measure temp immediately after the race. I carry my temp gun in my pocket.

If you thermal try to check the motor and speedo temp ASAP. This will tell you which has thermalled. If either one gets too hot it will thermal by flashing the red and blue lights. Usually overgearing will thermal the motor. Tight gear mesh or failing speedo will overheat the speedo. Rubber build up on speedo may cause heat sink to not cool like it should.

I been having a problem of late,My car has been fine until this past weekend.I have a 4300ss motor with no rotor upgrade etc. I have been all of a sudden thermalling with anywhere from 30 seconds left to less than 5 secs.My gearing im running is a lot less than others running with me.I stay up with the pack until its gets hot and starts falling off them thermals.I was wondering if the sindered rotor will help? I can take the small wire off for no more thermaling but the motor running hot just not good period.I used to run the motor with more gear on it and it seems over the last 2 months I have went smaller on pinion to compensate for the thermalling .Any suggestions would be would be helpful.IM leaning towards a new 4300 motor with rotor kit/bearing.

Shrabber, check the bearings. I've seen a couple of motors start to run slow and eventually go up in smoke due to bad bearings. I don't know if this would cause your problem but there could be a chance that the rotor has become weak.

The bad bearing thing I have also seen. The sintered rotor will allow your motor to run much cooler. I have run 4300 for a little while and if you get it to shut down do to heat then it has always been the motor not the speedo. Put an upgrade endbell and a new bearing inside and sintered rotor and run more gear than ever with less temp than ever or if you don't want to spend the dough just get new bearings to start and see if that helps.

I been having a problem of late,My car has been fine until this past weekend.I have a 4300ss motor with no rotor upgrade etc. I have been all of a sudden thermalling with anywhere from 30 seconds left to less than 5 secs.My gearing im running is a lot less than others running with me.I stay up with the pack until its gets hot and starts falling off them thermals.I was wondering if the sindered rotor will help? I can take the small wire off for no more thermaling but the motor running hot just not good period.I used to run the motor with more gear on it and it seems over the last 2 months I have went smaller on pinion to compensate for the thermalling .Any suggestions would be would be helpful.IM leaning towards a new 4300 motor with rotor kit/bearing.
Sounds like your speed control is about to let go on you.

Be careful don’t fool yourself with the gearing on the sintered rotor, just because it runs cooler does not mean you can hang a bunch of gear on it and be faster.

Motor temp should be in the 125 to 135 range, inch your way up on gear and watch the lap times, you will reach a point that it will flatten out.

If your running at Greenville a rollout in the 2.55 to 2.60 range should get you in the ball park.

I been having a problem of late,My car has been fine until this past weekend.I have a 4300ss motor with no rotor upgrade etc. I have been all of a sudden thermalling with anywhere from 30 seconds left to less than 5 secs.My gearing im running is a lot less than others running with me.I stay up with the pack until its gets hot and starts falling off them thermals.I was wondering if the sindered rotor will help? I can take the small wire off for no more thermaling but the motor running hot just not good period.I used to run the motor with more gear on it and it seems over the last 2 months I have went smaller on pinion to compensate for the thermalling .Any suggestions would be would be helpful.IM leaning towards a new 4300 motor with rotor kit/bearing.

More then likely your rotor is getting week. Over time with repeated heat exposure the standard rotor will loose magnetic strength. Drop in a new sintered rotor and your problems will likely go away.

BTW: The sintered rotor has two advantages it runs cooler ( no thermal issues) and it’s magnet has a much higher heat tolerance and is far less likely to loose strength over time.

On a 140ft flat carpet track what would you start out with for a roll out. for 13.5

Thanks all and sonny I think the rotor is more than likely.Speed control works fine.Like I said Motor gets hot and has thermalled more than ten times in past.I will try the endbell bearing and new rotor thanks

Is The Sintered Rotor The Larger Bearing Rotor??