View Full Version : husqvarna yth2448 tractor question ???
10-25-2006, 10:16 PM
ok i just got in a husqvarna yth2448 tractor , i was told the motor was bad but after getting it running right i tested it and it seems like in foward when the tractor goes up a hill or has to put some effort in going foward it kinda bucks and makes a weird noise , it sounds like its coming from the rear , i used it on my neighbors yard it doesn't gring or slip but just kinda bucks , the model # is 96015000101 , it has a 24hp briggs engine and is a 48 inch cut , any advice on what to look for is greatly appreciated
10-26-2006, 02:59 AM
manual? Sounds like either a loose belt... or hardly any grease in it.
10-26-2006, 09:13 AM
yea bugman im hoping its something simple ,it isn't a shift on the go , but it has foward and you can increase the speed w/o shifting it , it only has foward , neutral and reverse , so its kinda a automatic , and it slips weather you are going fast or slow , i got the tractor for 300.00 and its a 1800.00 tractor , it doesn't slip like stalls it just bucks in foward and makes a noise that i believe is coming from the rear , what scares me though is that this tractor is one of the types that has that little lever thing you have to pull out on the rear of the tractor when you are moving it around by pushing it, and im starting to think that they didn't pull that lever thing to unlock the rear , because when i bought it they said " its really hard to push" so if they pushed it around w/ that lever not pulled out both back wheels will try to turn in opposite directions here is the link to the tractor http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=230093-41798-GTH2248T&lpage=none
10-26-2006, 10:06 AM
This unit shows to have a hydrostatic transmsission. That is like an automatic transmsission, it is a fluid drive. Chances are the did not push it very far like that as they are very hard to push and on a small tractor like this one the rear wheels would probably just slide on the ground. Check both of the rear drive wheels and see if one of them has a sheared key, maybe the axle shaft is spinning inside one of the drive wheels.
10-26-2006, 10:25 AM
thanks for all the advice bugman and 30yrtech ,i hope it is a simple fix , now 30yrtech, if it is a sheared key can i get them from any mower repair shop? and how hard is it pulling the wheels on one of these , i don't usually deal w/ tractors because my lack of space for them but w/ this thing only having 70 hrs on it i couldn't pass it up .
10-26-2006, 11:12 AM
They will either have a clip or bolt on the end of the axle at each wheel, remove the clip or bolt and the wheel assy. should slide off. It should be a square key locking the rim to the axle but I am not positive for your unit. Most keys used on riding mowers on the wheels are standard hardware items but could be specific to your unit, I could not say without looking it up or looking at it.
This also may not be the problem, but I have seen it before on a handfull of riders.
10-26-2006, 11:14 AM
yea i just want to check the easy stuff first , i just hope its not a bad gear or something else , but it will continue to go foward it will just buck.
10-29-2006, 03:09 AM
normally just be a c like clip.., Key a long steel key....
If you get it off, before you put em back on, use some grease or antiseize.. etc on the axles.... boy oh boy its not fun taking a seized by rust one off later on, have one right now, pb blaster sitting a month, every week a fresh spray had done diddly...
10-29-2006, 10:20 AM
bugman, have you ever tried an air impact hammer? I have had pretty good luck after soaking them with lube and then using the impact hammer, the vibrations are good at knocking the rust loose. Does not always work, but about 75-80% of the time it does knock them loose, I use it on rusted on blade adapters and drive pulleys also.. :)
10-30-2006, 03:58 AM
Nope, might......, am about to try a little heat to the situation though when I get around to it, I don't care for the rims on it, just the trans and maybe the tires....
10-31-2006, 12:22 PM
well both wheels came off and the keys were fine , so i did figure out its not them and the bucking and slipping is coming from the rear and it is getting worse , it does not do it in reverse just foward , so its gotta be something in the rear
11-02-2006, 01:44 PM
your rear end is hydrostatic therefore it is not run with gears it pumps fluid the more pressure the more speed if the fluid is low it will buck it is probly not bucking when you back up becuse you are going slower and you don't need as much pressure. if that doesn't work i don't know what to tell you
11-02-2006, 02:39 PM
so is there a spot where i can add fluid and what kind of fluid do i need ? thanks
11-02-2006, 02:49 PM
there should be a fill on the rearedn but i wouldn't know where unless i looked at it myself it is on the rear end of course. use atf for fluid
11-02-2006, 03:36 PM
ok i'll try that thanks minimowerman ,
i just didn't know because it does only slip in foward, but it still would drive pretty fast , im hoping that this could be the problem , it did probally sit at lowes for 4 - 8 months before i bought it , well i will let you know the out come but thanks
11-02-2006, 04:07 PM
You should find out what kind of Hydro is in your unit, most hydros use motor oil and not automatic transmission fluid. These units are generally sealed units and unless you see a leak they normally do not require additional fluid. There should be a vent hose on the top of the hydro unit where you can check fluid level and add fluid if needed, do not overfill as these unit get hot and the fluid needs room to expand. Most hydros are filled to about an inch from the top of the housing, and use 20w50 or 10w40 motor oil, but you should find out which fluid your particular unit uses.
11-02-2006, 05:03 PM
ok after scratching around i found out its a peerless lth2000, i found a diagram on the sears site , it has a oil plug , but i will have to see whats going on w/ it either tonight or maybe sat morning when it will be light out but it feels like something is slipping and i know the great ppl at lowes were pushing it around while that lever thing in the back of the tractor was set for it to drive , not pushed
11-02-2006, 06:43 PM
I would check the input drive pulley on top of the transmission above the fan. The input shaft is splined. I have seen these pulleys strip out and cause a problem similar to what you describe. Also check the brake assembly on the transmission and make sure it is releasing all the way.
Looking at the the breakdown on this transmission, the pump/motor unit is separate from the differential assembly. I think your problem is most likely in the differential then in the hydro portion. The hydro pump/motor bolts onto the differential and is splined where it attaches, the splines could be slipping these may have been damaged by all the pushing.
11-03-2006, 10:29 AM
yes 30yeartech is right i didn't know yopur machine was so new it deffinatly doesn't need fluid but the splines seem more likely i had a similar problem on a machine of my own
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