Its time for me to do my borders. I really wish someone would just make borders for Tomt track.

First I tried track bed that is used for model railroads.

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f288/micyou03/2006%2010%20Slots/10-23-06Borders02a.jpg

This is what was used on the track at the hobby shop I sometimes race at. The thickness isn't quite right and I can't get it to work very good.

Then I tried foam core board.

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f288/micyou03/2006%2010%20Slots/10-23-06Borders03a.jpg

It seems ok, but I don't think it will be very durable.

I think I am going to go with MDF.

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f288/micyou03/2006%2010%20Slots/10-23-06Borders01a.jpg

The thickness is perfect, and it should be plenty tough. I used this and the McMaster Carr adhesive backed neoprene on my 1/43rd track, and I like the MDF the best so far.I was hoping not to have to go through the trouble of cutting MDF. I wanted something easier, but I think right now this is the way to go.

When I did my 1/43rd track I cut the MDF with a reciprocating tablr scroll saw and I had a difficult time manuvering the wood. I think this time I will by a hand recirpocating jig/scroll saw.

I am debating with myself between making borders that I can reuse if I change my layout and covering the whole table with MDF, tracing my track, cutting out the pieces and then setting my track in the cutout parts.

Opinions please.

I cut 1" strips out of sticky-backed felt sheets and stuck it to the bottom of the cork railroad stuff. Brings it to the perfect (7mm) height for Tomy track. Painted with a couple coats of black spray paint, they really worked well, and the texture is better than foam in my opinion.

:)

http://www.horacingworld.com/pics/dirtmods_x2ng.jpg

I'm going to experiment with a cement based product called Ardex Featherfinish. I use it in my trade. Its expensive but it goes a long ways.
Like any cement product you build a form. In this case the track becomes one side of the form and some thin packaging tape masks the track (along with a little plastic). mix the product and screed it across preprimed wood(prime with white glue mixed 50/50 with water)
It drys to a slightly faded asphalt grey.It will have very little texture since any sand in this product is crushed superfine. I figure the screed you use can be slightly higher on the outside than the track giving a hint of a banking effect....... Its going to be an interesting experiment.
I believ it will work quite well. :)

Mike on-slot has a black boarder that is the perfect height for Tomy and is ver easy to install

http://www.on-slot.com/

Roger Corrie

I used the rubber stuff from......

http://www.hoslotcarracing.com/

Quite happy with how it turned out. Simply superglued it to the outer edge of the track.

Thanks for the replies and suggestions. So far I am liking the stuff from on-slot that Roger mentioned. Has anybody used their boarders?

We have some made for us from a silicone substance, flexable, color fast........works great, but would look funny if you put it ALL around your track.

http://members.aol.com/afx1afx/TrackBerm.jpg


--------------------------
www.SlotCarJohnnies.com (http://www.SlotCarJohnnies.com)

Thanks for letting me know and for the pic SCJ.

I decided to give the stuff at on-slot a try. I'll report back after I try it.

I posted this on another site a while back,

After knocking my brains out trying to come up with a cheap way to make them I came up with this way to make these with no special tools needed just a little patience, ok so let's get started,

To start you'll need some black foam 1/2" pipe insulation, start by cutting it directly down the middle, once done now cut both pieces down the middle again now you should have four pieces,
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c394/tycobro/TrackApronsI.jpg
now with a hot glue gun, glue the sections along side of the track ( no need to glue to the track, glue to the table) making sure that it butts up against the track,
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c394/tycobro/TrackApronsII.jpg
here's how it should look a little bit of a hump higher than the track,
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c394/tycobro/TrackApronsIII.jpg
ok now with a razor blade (start with a fresh sharp blade for a smoother cut) start at one end with the blade resting on the on track, now move the blade back and forth with short strokes cutting of the hump untill you get to the end,
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c394/tycobro/TrackApronsIV.jpg
and the results you can add guard rails along the sides like shown or walls or just bushes or fencing to cover up any inperfections.
I plan on putting some colored tape to them to give them that rumble strip look.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c394/tycobro/TrackApronsV.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c394/tycobro/TrackApronsVI.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c394/tycobro/TrackApronsVII.jpg
My track is still at it starting stage so I will making more home made items such as fencing, retaining walls, trees water and so on.

I'm sure this could work for 1/32 scale also just double up the pieces on each section.

hope this helps anyone in need of these and good luck if you plan to give it a try.

Ressurecting this post for Xence and myself.

Wow, my early two laner. Well as most of you are aware I did scrap the foam idea and went with MDF.

I started out by making one border and working with it untill it fit just right. When I was satisfied with it use it as a template and traced a series of them onto a sheet of MDF and started cutting.

A band saw is the way to go here as a jigsaw or scroll saw can not give you the ease and results you get from a bandsaw.

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c394/tycobro/MDFHOBORDERSIII.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c394/tycobro/MDFHOBORDERSIV.jpg

I cut the rumble strip out from the border for ease of painting it.
Here's a 1/32 example of one ready to go.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c394/tycobro/MDFHOBORDERSV.jpg

And the HO versions.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c394/tycobro/HObordersIII.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c394/tycobro/HObordersIV.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c394/tycobro/DSCF2620.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c394/tycobro/DSCF2616.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c394/tycobro/DSCF2635.jpg

I'm going to order two 50-foot lengths of the McMaster-Carr material (1/4" x 1") for under $25. It seems a fair price to pay for 100 feet of border that should be flush, according to LeeRoy98 in a previous thread on borders.

At the stage where I've got my International 39 layout set up, and I'm not thrilled with using the stock rails on a 4-lane setup. The outer track is slightly lifted up by the tabs on the bottom of the rails, creating a slightly uneven gap between the two tracks. The rails are only there right now since they're preventing cars from flying off the table and into the wall. Once I put the table barrier in place, the neoprene borders will do the job of acting like a curb for any skidding and it'll be bye-bye rails.

I picked up a couple smaller sheets of foam-core today, was really hoping the craft store would stock 1/4" foam, but they only had 3/16". I'll use this foam-core for a couple of buildings on the table (garage, stands, etc.).

Can you post the McMaster part number or a link to the part?

Thanks!

Great Pics and ideas everyone! This really helps me out as far as deciding what I need to do for my layout.

Will post up some pictures of the few borders I will make up for my layout here. First have a few other top priority projects to finish up so, it may be a while.

Only have a few 9" corners with most of my winding roads being 18" or 15" wide turns as Las Zillas Raceway is just my little fun to run track for T-Jets, older AFX and Tyco Pro cars.

When I start construction on a 4 lanner...this information on this thread is going to be very helpful.

Later on fellow track builders, Bob...zilla

http://www.mcmaster.com/

Part number: 93695K88 (this is for the 1")

Do a search on the part number, it will bring you to a listing of "Extra-Soft Adhesive-Backed Strips" in various widths and thicknesses.

Of course for the Tomy / AFX track, you'll need 1/4" in thickness. I'm going with 1" width since I will have clearance near the edge of the table. It's trimable, so I'm not worried about where different parts of the track will get close to each other.

When I get this down on my layout, I'll post up pictures here. I take no credit for finding this, it's been referenced from an older thread by LeeRoy98 (Gary). Reference this thread, near the end, where he even shows a link to his own site with pictures:

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/showthread.php?t=203598&page=1&pp=30

I tried their 'soft adhesive' version, PN# 8694K78 (it's on the same mcmaster page) and was not pleased with it. I do hope you have better luck. One thing to keep in mind, which you may have already read on the forum, is that the adhesive on that stuff is very adhesive. Before you stick it on your track table, do a test on another surface, similar to your track table surface, and try to remove/adjust it. Just so you know what to expect.

Thanks, Scaf. Comparing the part you tried vs. the one I'm going to pick up: yours has a rubber-based adhesive, mine will have an acrylic-based adhesive. I'm not a chemist, so I have no idea what that means just yet ;) Also note that you had a fine cell texture, mine will be a coarser texture. I'm going to guess they may "play" differently given the texture of the neoprene and how a tire reacts to it.

I will most definitely test mine out before hand. I have an enamel-coated homasote table top, I don't know what you were mounting on to. I'm with you- I don't necessarily want this stuff to be so cemented on that it'll be a nightmare to get off the table. I could always leave the backing on, and mount with a less damning adhesive. I just picked up paper cement- that rubberry glue that we all used to make boogies with in elementary school ;) That's it does provide a decent bond, but is painless to separate. I'll test, regardless.

Keep us posted for sure! I didn't even notice the different adhesives between the two products, not that I know what it means yet either. :) My gues is that the acrylic based adhesive you are getting cannot be any stronger then the other, because that stuff I received had adhesion to no end!

I would surely revisit the product if the one you chose is more user friendly.

Acrylic based adhesive is good for bonding to "CARC" and epoxy painted surfaces. I tried the same stuff Scaf tried and I was not pleased at all. I ended up peeling the papaer and spraying Krylon clear on to the adhesive to help make it not so aggressive, just so I can work with it. Once it touched the table, it was not moving ever again. I was also not happy with the surface, as soon as a car slid out onto it the car just flipped over. I had to coat it with flat latex to get the cars to slide a bit on it.

I got this rubber stuff from on-slot.com and it is great.

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f288/micyou03/2008-01%20Slots/01-13-08HOTrackborders01.jpg

It is some kind of flexible solid rubber 1" wide by 1/4" high, the texture is perfect and it is very easy to install with hot glue, and it is easy to pull up and reuse.

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f288/micyou03/2008-01%20Slots/01-13-08HOTrackborders02a.jpg

There has to be the same thing at McMaster, but I'm not sure what it is.

Can that stuff be painted?.... Flexible "things" and rubber surfaces are funny like that. I'm talking about painting it after it's glued down. Obviously painting it beforehand, while it's straight and before you shape it to the curves, would cause the paint to crack. nd

mic, the border from on-slot is pricey! Though I'd give it a shot if McMaster's doesn't work out.

Interesting, since the gentleman that is using McMaster's has no problems with it. I'd be interested to know if tire material is factoring into this?

Has anyone used the tape that Greg sell on his site? I bought some red & white checkered decal from the hobby shop and cut it into strips to cover my borders, but it wrinkles when applied in the corners. I am thinking I could print my own on sticky paper or buy the ones from Greg?

masking and spray painting worked for me. A bit of a hassle but perhaps only a little more so than cutting and sticking little pieces of red and white tape.

...
To start you'll need some black foam 1/2" pipe insulation, start by cutting it directly down the middle, once done now cut both pieces down the middle again now you should have four pieces...

After reading this effort with the foam, halfway thru your article I thought you would leave the humps. Did you try running with the humps? I am wondering would cars ride them well or would they deslot?

I then saw this picture from Nurburgring circuit and noticed their borders are humped. Does anyone know in which cases in real racing these are allowed/used?

masking and spray painting worked for me. A bit of a hassle but perhaps only a little more so than cutting and sticking little pieces of red and white tape.

I'm not thinking of individual pieces, I'm thinking a border piece printed to match the length and arc of curved tracks. I've drawn them up, now I just need to print them and give it a shot. I've got pdf files for red & white borders for 6", 9" & 12" Tomy 1/8 curves.

...I then saw this picture from Nurburgring circuit and noticed their borders are humped. Does anyone know in which cases in real racing these are allowed/used?I think you'll find pretty much every road course will have curbing that is raised. Some are even ribbed to cause a vibration much like a toll booth warning on US highways. The raised curbs let drivers know where the edge of the track and most drivers will ride these as their line depending on how tall they are. Too much up on them and it will upset the handling pretty severely. I've seen F1 cars and others literally leap into the air after hitting these in chicanes.

As far as an HO track, it would certainly add realism, but I tend to think if the car slid far enough to ride up on it it would cause it to deslot. You may be able to get away a little hump but too much would cause the pick up shoes to lose contact with the rails. You could effectively make low curbing from balsa wood. You'd have to glue a bunch of strips together and then cut and shape them to fit your curves. Could also try plaster but that could get pretty messy sanding it and after a while I'll bet the pins would chip it up.

-Scott

masking and spray painting worked for me. A bit of a hassle but perhaps only a little more so than cutting and sticking little pieces of red and white tape.

EXACTLY. Plus no ridges when you paint and you can get creative.

This is Greg Braun's turn borders painted in the colors of the German flag:
http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/500/Deckertring2006-021.jpg


And this is how you can make it look as though the cars are 'riding' the curbs by using a little creative illusion --
First -- Extend your white painted curb onto the actual track surface like this:
http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/500/Deckertring2007-_008b.jpg

Then, you can detail out the curb in whatever colors you choose:
http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/500/Deckertring2007-_049b.jpg

Note how the F1 car even has the illusion of being slightly tilted while being up on the curb. in reality all it is doing is following the natural curve of the track section.

Your track flat out rocks!!... feel like running mine over with my Jeep when I see yers...dang!....nd

Your track flat out rocks!!... feel like running mine over with my Jeep when I see yers...dang!....nd

Thanks ! :)

It's a work in progress - lol !

...
As far as an HO track, it would certainly add realism, but I tend to think if the car slid far enough to ride up on it it would cause it to deslot. You may be able to get away a little hump but too much would cause the pick up shoes to lose contact with the rails. You could effectively make low curbing from balsa wood. You'd have to glue a bunch of strips together and then cut and shape them to fit your curves. Could also try plaster but that could get pretty messy sanding it and after a while I'll bet the pins would chip it up.

-Scott

Thank you Scott.
Tycoarm actually had curbed borders using the foam insulation from piping. I thought it looked good. Then he sliced it off. See his post on this trhead.

I was wondering how that ran while curbed

After reading this effort with the foam, halfway thru your article I thought you would leave the humps. Did you try running with the humps? I am wondering would cars ride them well or would they deslot?


The car would actually just quit as one of the pickups would lose contact with a rail.

Cordoba that track rocks! I love the "creative illusion" stuff. I've always loved how Jason Boye does this on slot car tracks, giving the illusion that cars are forming a "groove" and apexing corners by painting the surrounding areas black and giving the illuison the track actually bends different ways.

Here's some great examples;

http://www.f1specialties.com/main/racetrack/img/links/fosters5.jpg

http://www.f1specialties.com/main/racetrack/img/links/karrousel2.jpg

http://www.f1specialties.com/main/racetrack/img/links/marlborochicane2.jpg

Photos from the "Portugal in a Playroom" website:
http://www.f1specialties.com/main/racetrack/racetrack.html

-Scott

...
Here's some great examples;
...-Scott

WOW Scott, Wow! that is an amazing track!

Christos- that track was done by a guy named Jason Boye over 15 years ago. He is the proclaimed master at realistic HO tracks. He is also responsible for the Katz-Spa-Ring and the infamous LeMonzaco track that you may have seen here or on the internet.

Thank you. :)
No I haven't seen it. If there is a link, please post it.

I cut 1" strips out of sticky-backed felt sheets and stuck it to the bottom of the cork railroad stuff. Brings it to the perfect (7mm) height for Tomy track.

I experimented with cork roadbed today. What I found is that popsicle sticks under the cork roadbed bring it to the proper height for Tyco/Mattel track. I found a bag of 200 popsicle sticks (called craft sticks) at the dollar store (where the grandcheapskate does most of his shopping). Lay the popsicle sticks down around the track and then tack the roadbed through the stick into the table.

I just did this as a fast test and therefore only part of the roadbed sits on top of the sticks (the roadbed is wider than a stick). Yet it seems that if I took my time this would work out quite nicely. It would probably be best to cut the stick to the width of the roadbed and slip them underneath. In other words, put the sticks at 90 degree angles to the track.

Joe

I started my borders, I used weatherstipping from Tony Stewarts sponsor, I think it was 1/4" x 3/4" then I printed the red and white curb files I made (radiused to match the track) on avery label paper. I'm happy with the results and it was alot easier tan painting them. If you want a high gloss curb Epson makes sticker photo paper

Will you/ did you spay some clear coat or fixative to keep your borders clean?

No I didn't/wont, I hope the get a little dirty and resemble the real thing

I used the stuff from On-Slot. Seems to be working great. On the inside and outside areas that don't get any tire action, I used 1/4" foam weather strip tape from McMaster-Carr. Not the best pic but it's all I have.

GP

BuzzinHornet,
Nice & neat job on your turn apron borders! I originally tried the R.R. cork on my
layout, gets torn a little- but not as much as foam board. The aprons from On-Slot &
Greg B. are definitely the best. :thumbsup:

BuzzinHornet,
Nice & neat job on your turn apron borders! I originally tried the R.R. cork on my
layout, gets torn a little- but not as much as foam board. The aprons from On-Slot &
Greg B. are definitely the best. :thumbsup:

Thanks Dyno. I agree, the stuff from Greg is great. Just a little smaller and pricier. That's why I went with On-Slot. Seems to be working great. I just laid down a bead of RTV and then the border.

GP

pdf's attached print at 100%

Forgot the straight

I used the rubber stuff from......

http://www.hoslotcarracing.com/

Quite happy with how it turned out. Simply superglued it to the outer edge of the track.


I'm gonna try these too, but I'm curious to know if you have been satisfied. I think I understand that these are made of neoprene, and it seems to me that the wheels might grab, rather than slide and that the car would just catch and roll once the outside tire got on the neoprene? Any thoughts? Did you paint yours?
Thanks!

That is really clever.

I guess you have to use a particular paint so that the car in that lane is not robbed of grip?



And this is how you can make it look as though the cars are 'riding' the curbs by using a little creative illusion --
First -- Extend your white painted curb onto the actual track surface like this:
http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/500/Deckertring2007-_008b.jpg

Then, you can detail out the curb in whatever colors you choose:
http://photos.hobbytalk.com/data/500/Deckertring2007-_049b.jpg

Note how the F1 car even has the illusion of being slightly tilted while being up on the curb. in reality all it is doing is following the natural curve of the track section.

That is really clever.

I guess you have to use a particular paint so that the car in that lane is not robbed of grip?

I use standard issue Testors paint pens and have not noticed a lack of grip v the other lanes. You are quite heavily under braking at corner, so the car is slowed a good deal when you get to the painted bit.

We run Wizzard PVT-01s locally and they grip well at every track, it seems. :thumbsup:

Thats a great idea with the painted borders! Nice look as the car enters the turn.

Jim Norton
Huntsville, Alabama