I am looking for some track border once again...
Last time I bought some foam rubber stuff from McMaster Carr but I cannot remember what part number I bought...
Any help would be appreciated...
Scott

Scott-I found the thread, but unfortuately AFX Too removed his reponse (September 2005). not sure, but I am guessing it is this item below.

8694K94
Neoprene/EPDM/SBR Foam Rubber Strip 1/4" Thick, 1-1/2" Wide, 50' Long, Black
In stock at $15.90 Each

Jim

Thanks!
I am actually going to use the 3/4 inch width, but thank you for pointing me in the right direction.

This was from someone else's post I saved a couple years ago...

From McMaster Carr I ordered #93695K88 which is 1/4" X 1" by 50'.
Other people have suggested #93695K86 which is 1/4" X 3/4" by 50'.
Bigger is better right?

hth--

if I look a while, I might even be able to find the part number I ordered, I don't remember if that was it. I think I got it from a discussion on the Yahoo board...

--rick

Heres the article
http://www.homeracingworld.com/trackborders.htm
And heres the direct link to the page you will need #3333
http://www.mcmaster.com/

What do you do to the surface to allow the cars to slide on these borders? On my 1/43rd track I painted them with latex paint. Does anything need to be done to them for HO? Will the cars slide on it as is?

Kind of. There was one section of my track where some cars seemed to want to roll over, and I think I actually coated the surface of the border with a very thin coat of white glue. Other than that, it doesn't seem to be a problem. Be advised, however, that this stuff DOES wear... there's tons of little black crumbs at the ends of the turns on my layout.

--rick

there's tons of little black crumbs at the ends of the turns on my layout.

--rick

Your track has "marbles"? :lol:

Scott

lol... yeah i guess they're scale marbles

--rick

Rick-
What did you use to adhere the border to the table surface?
How long has it taken to wear down, and has it become a hazard (for the cars)?
Jim

It's self-adhesive weatherstripping. Just peel off the paper backing. Apply it carefully, because you pretty much get only once chance to get it right. It's been three years, and I haven't noticed where the cars are having a problem yet, but I think over time (another couple years of moderate use) it will wear enough that a couple of sections that get leaned on hard will have to be replaced. (It's not gonna be fun to remove the adhesive, that's for sure...) Areas where it doesn't wear, like the very beginning of the turns, when you run your finger across the seam, you can feel a very very slight step up onto the border. In the high wear areas, which are actually only 2 or 3 places, you can definitely feel a slight depression in the border. I'm attaching a couple pics to show you what it looks like...

--rick

will they work on tyco/mattel tracks?

Wes

Thanks Rick- I used cork roadbed, but of course it was too low. I have lots of 2 sided sticky tape from work and had to double up on the thin stuff in order to get the shoulders level. Now I have the shoulders popping up in areas.

Even with the adhesive backing, I probably would silicone it down so I don't have the popping up again.

Jim

The black stuff will never come up. I had to remove some and I couldn't get the adhesive off at all. I ended up leaving the adhesive on my table and just painted and landscaped over it. It seems that, the longer it stays down the stronger the bond is.

Mike, I was afraid that's what I'd find if I ever had to remove it...

Wes, I have some left that I plan to use on Tyco track, which is a little thicker. On my Atlas track, the border is a hair higher than the track edge. On Tyco, it winds up being a hair lower. With the wear factor we're discussing, that might be an issue in the long run...

--rick

Mike, I was afraid that's what I'd find if I ever had to remove it...

Wes, I have some left that I plan to use on Tyco track, which is a little thicker. On my Atlas track, the border is a hair higher than the track edge. On Tyco, it winds up being a hair lower. With the wear factor we're discussing, that might be an issue in the long run...

--rick

thanks Rick..

Wes

Scott-I found the thread, but unfortuately AFX Too removed his reponse (September 2005). not sure, but I am guessing it is this item below.

8694K94
Neoprene/EPDM/SBR Foam Rubber Strip 1/4" Thick, 1-1/2" Wide, 50' Long, Black
In stock at $15.90 Each

Jim

I purchased the 1" wide version of the above, PN# 8694K78. The thickness however is about 1/32" shy of 1/4", which is the published tolerance of the material. :(

Shim it from underneath.

That would work.

Or, I could buy 5/8" thick rubber foam and shave it down. ;)

I just did some borders on my tyco track. I bought some of this neporene style foam tape from home depot. They had it in the garage door seal area, its used on the bottoms of garage doors to seal the cold out I guess. They had two different widths, not sure on exact measurements but I got the thinner. Its probably 1" wide. It sits just below the level of the track. For the non mag cars it still isnt high enough to prevent the cars from sliding. The car doesnt slide off the track but it doesnt give enough traction to help the car make the corner. If you are going slow it will get stuck and do a fun burn out with one tire heh. PM me for pics if you want.

Quality border material can be had at any good foam, upholstery shop. Not grannys furniture uhpolsterers, but a supplier of upholstery supplies. More than likely a special order, and the most expensive foam money can buy; but worth the wait. Order it cut to size. It's called EVA, available in black to boot! It's super durable, flexible, and never leaves those darn crumbs! Measure out what you need, blast it with aerosol spray glue, count 20 and stick it down on a clean surface. For adhesive removal use goof off, deoderized mineral spirits or any other non-plastic melting mild solvent. When attempting glue removal, dab it on liberally, (I use an old tube sock turned inside out.) let it sit and work till almost dry, then re-apply. After its softened up I use the same sock to scrub/wipe and redunk the sock as required. For the enevitable stubborn areas, a green scotchbrite pad cut to the required width for the work space will get the job done quickly. Wipe it all up, it'll all dry pretty quickly. Touch up any paint and make your repairs.

I'm leaning towards making a stockpile of 1/4" MDF curves, much like someone else here did (I remember the photo of all the curves layed out). The height is perfect, material cost is minimal, they are re-usable/durable, gives me a reason to buy a scroll saw, making them keeps me out of trouble - the list goes on. :)

But, I will still keep an eye out for something less labor intensive.

I wanted to throw out my mini-review of the McMaster-Carr 1/4" foam, so later forum searchers who stumble on the thread as I did, receive more info on the product. Maybe, that 1/32" drop isn't a big deal....but like Bewstd said, the cars can get stuck on it.

...gives me a reason to buy a scroll saw,

This is the same reason I'd go MDF! :cool:

MDF is what I used for borders, there actually quite simple to make but forget the scrolll saw and invest in a small band saw, it makes it easier by cutting through the MDF like butter.

I'm finishing up the rest of the borders I need after changing my layout once again by adding just a little more twist to it.

The MDF is available at Home Depot in 2x3 sheets for Less than $4 each.

I first made a template I was happy with then I just traced around it onto the sheet of MDF to make a bunch at a time.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c394/tycobro/MDFHOBORDERSI.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c394/tycobro/MDFHOBORDERSII.jpg

Then it's over to the band saw, like I said the band saw makes quick clean fast cuts, the blade always travels down so there is very little dust, I tried cutting a piece on the scroll saw, while it did to a good job as well, it just seemed like more work as your forcing the piece into the blade and the blade moving up and down leaves dust on the piece making it hard to see the cutting lines.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c394/tycobro/MDFHOBORDERSIII.jpg

Here's the set I just cut, it took less than 30 mins to make them, now I'll just take them over to the drill press and make a few counter sink holes for the screws that will secure them in place.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c394/tycobro/MDFHOBORDERSIV.jpg
Here's a finished corner, of course they still have to be painted.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c394/tycobro/HOAPRONS2.jpg

As for painting I found it easier to cut the apron off the border and paint it separately this eliminates a lot of extra masking off.

My 1/32 is Scalextric and my HO is Tyco and both are slightly higher then the MDF board, So you'll have to shim it a bit, I found some thin sheets of foam to do the trick you could also use poster board, roofing felt etc.

Here's a finished border apron from my 1/32 setup,
the foam shim is only under the apron so just the apron is flush with the track.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c394/tycobro/MDFHOBORDERSV.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c394/tycobro/MDFHOBORDERSVII.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c394/tycobro/HOAPRONS2.jpg




http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c394/tycobro/MDFHOBORDERSVII.jpg

N I C E -- :)

'doba

Very Nice Tycoarm!

I bet that was your photo of MDF borders I had seen in another thread.

I was vacillating between a scroll saw and a band saw. Glad to hear your thoughts on both. Home Depot seems to have most every woodworking tool (Ryobi brand) for $99.00 ea. – scroll saw, band saw, table saw, drill press, etc. Probably not the best quality, but for limited home use, I think they serve their purpose. I’ve had good luck with my other Ryobi tools so far.

The scroll saws have a blower thing to keep dust off of the work piece near the blade. Not sure how well this blower works, and I can relate to what your saying from my use of a jig saw. I believe with the band saw you can set up a backstop to make long straight cuts which is an advantage. Do you use your band saw for that?

Moving the pieces over to the drill press for countersinking (and using the drill press to countersink my track holes) was exactly what I was envisioning also.

How deep do you make your borders? I was thinking 1” or maybe 1.25”.

If I do not do a natural looking landscaped track, I was thinking about putting MDF borders around the complete layout – inside and outside, curves and straights – and tapering the border edge that is away from the track with a router.

Very Nice Tycoarm!

I bet that was your photo of MDF borders I had seen in another thread.

Yeah that was the 1/32 borders I did.

I was vacillating between a scroll saw and a band saw. Glad to hear your thoughts on both. Home Depot seems to have most every woodworking tool (Ryobi brand) for $99.00 ea. – scroll saw, band saw, table saw, drill press, etc. Probably not the best quality, but for limited home use, I think they serve their purpose. I’ve had good luck with my other Ryobi tools so far.

Ryobi is good I just got some knockoff brand I've had it for years, you'll find that with practice comes ease and with ease comes satisfaction.

The scroll saws have a blower thing to keep dust off of the work piece near the blade. Not sure how well this blower works, and I can relate to what your saying from my use of a jig saw. I believe with the band saw you can set up a backstop to make long straight cuts which is an advantage. Do you use your band saw for that?

It worked ok for that but for long ripping cuts I just use my table saw the thin blade on the band saw can get the piece of work to wonder sometimes even when I clamp a guide on it. but it can't be beat for cutting tight curves and trimming.

Moving the pieces over to the drill press for countersinking (and using the drill press to countersink my track holes) was exactly what I was envisioning also.

How deep do you make your borders? I was thinking 1” or maybe 1.25”.

Actually they are 1.25" they seem to be perfect.

If I do not do a natural looking landscaped track, I was thinking about putting MDF borders around the complete layout – inside and outside, curves and straights – and tapering the border edge that is away from the track with a router.

I plan on adding some scenery I'm just going to fill the edges of the MDF with bushes, rocks and railing to hide the transition from MDF to table.