What is the best soldering method for powering a my new ho set up?
What is the best location on a stock tomy/afx track to solder?
How far should i space the powerr supply points?
What gage of wire should i use?
What is the best thing to secure my track to my table (nail or screw)?
thx for the help guys....

Okay, since there is as many different views on answering these questions as there are days in a month, I'll offer up what I have learned over the last 40 years.

What is the best soldering method for powering a my new ho set up?

Drill a hole directly next to the rail, insert pre-tinned wire up from the bottom and solder to rail. A properly soldered joint with allow the solder to flow the heigth of the rail and without any distortion of the plastic.

What is the best location on a stock tomy/afx track to solder?

Only on the wire taps which should be place at the beginning of a straight. Never in the curves. And do not attempt to solder track joints. Just make sure they are clean and tight during assembly. Periodic doses of Rail Zip will help to eliminate joint problems.

How far should i space the powerr supply points?

For smooth, consistent power flow throughout, power taps should be placed every 10' on plastic snap-loc tracks.

What gage of wire should i use?

10 or 12 from the power supply or batteries to the main distribution block. From there to the taps, 14ga will do fine for about everything. If you are planning on running unlimiteds, step to the next heavier gauge on everything.

What is the best thing to secure my track to my table (nail or screw)?

Screws! #4 brass flathead woodscrews. The resoan being is that with screws, tension on the track can be adjusted as necessary as track and base settle over time. Also, it is far easier to adjust the track piece to track piece level with screws which makes for smoother joints. Also, screws make it easier to change a layout or pull up a piece or two for repairs if needed. Make sure is make a pilot hole prior to installing the screw and also countersink the hole in the track so the screwhead sets flush with the track surface. Takes a little more work than nails or glue but far more worth the effort down the road.

Just my 2 cents worth. After building and rebuilding several tracks over the years I have found these things to be the ones that work the best. Some require a bit more patience and work but after one has found the downfalls of other methods and the headaches they cause, the effort to do it right the first time is worth it's weight in racing time!!!!

Here is a site I am sure will help you to properly wire your track:

HO Slotcar Racing (http://hoslotcarracing.com/)

thx for the prompt responce.

just one more thing , what is "rail zip" and how can i get some?

happy motoring :)

I don't have anywhere near Cozee's experience, but here's my opinion......

Track screws........#3 screws are smaller, and less obtrusive looking than #4's. They are hard to find however. I got mine from McMaster Carr.

Power wiring...... Unless you are racing real Super Stock class inline cars and faster, then 18 or 16 gauge wiring is plenty big. The commonly available cars don't draw hardly any amps. Ignore all of this if neo cars are your thing....

Tap spacing...... If you have a straight more than about 8' or so, put a tap at each end of the straight. Otherwise put a tap in any straight over 3 or 4 feet long. Depending on the layout of course........ Like Cozee mentioned, every 10' or so is a good guideline. If you are not racing, feel free to stretch that out a bit...

Rail Zip is an oil like substance that the model railroader guys use to inhibit corrosion on their rails and connections. Any hobby shop that deals in trains will have it.

Just to add to what Cozee says.
Another drop wiring option
If you're solder shy,you can use a small cut-off disc in a Dremel,cut a small notch in your rails,then drill apprx a .043" hole on either side of this notch going through to the bottom of the track.
Get yourself some 18G doorbell wire (roughly .040" O.D),strip a couple inches of insulation off,feed this up through one of the holes you drilled beside your rail,loop it over and feed it back through the other hole,twist together on the bottom side of the track,carefully grind the looped over wire flush with the rail

Here are the details of that same wiring trick Hornet describes:

http://www.supervipersystems.com/VargoSpeedway/HO_Tech/Power_Taps/power_taps.html

It works pretty well but I would suggest also gluing the wires underneath with an epoxy. It's probably fine if you permanently secure the track. But when I moved my track, those wired pieces couldn't be removed and had to be taped to the track and some connections loosened up from moving around. One even broke from bending it.

As far as securing the track; you should consider the room it will be in and if the temperature changes a lot, like a garage or cold basement. Plastic track can shrink up over a 1/2" within a 15 foot span if the track gets cold. Any shrinkage will result in curled track and popped connections if the track is screwed or nailed to the table. I have heard some 1/32 racers have had success with silicone based caulk as it will allow some movement.

Just to add one thing to all of this great info that the other guys gave you......

When I soldered my jumpers on my track,I used a damp towel on a cookie sheet as a heat sink to avoid melting the track.

I put the pieces on the towel face down and soldered away.WOrks good.

I dont know if it makes a dif or not what kind of solder you use,but I did every single joint on my track with silver solder,and it worked really well.It was a LOT of work tho.

Im sure one of the more knowledgable guys here could chime in on that.

Good luck and show us some pics of your track!!!!!!!

Mike

I've had good luck using Kester's TV/Radio/Stereo Computor solder,it's lower 190 degree melting point doesn't seem to hurt the plastic track as much.
BTW:DO NOT use a acid core/based solder,always use a Rosin core solder,acid core solder will eventually eat everything it comes in contact with.
If possible pre-tin everything,and use a good non-acid based flux

WOW, this is really a great comunity, the detailed responses are all so great.
Thanks to all for not treating me like a noob, for my questions.
Truth is my grandfather if he were still alive would have built, and new how to build the set-up i dream of. I really want to build somthing like we had when i was 12 years old , set up in the back of his rod and reel repair shop...
I still have our "Jackie Stewart rally sprint race set" , pit kit, a few riggen boss cars and a handfull of afx cars. I just got two super international race sets and extra 15 straights and the largest outer turns i could find to set up a four lane ,so i dont make a mess of the old set.
It really feels good to be able to be part of a forum that keeps this thing alive and
running.
I wonder if my grandfather has run into Derek Brand up in Heaven?
thx again and happy motoring to all!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Here's some more plastic track tips,look in TECH Tips 101,and under the post plastic track tips

http://www.wizzardho.com/bbs/

I've had good luck using Kester's TV/Radio/Stereo Computor solder,it's lower 190 degree melting point doesn't seem to hurt the plastic track as much.
BTW:DO NOT use a acid core/based solder,always use a Rosin core solder,acid core solder will eventually eat everything it comes in contact with.
If possible pre-tin everything,and use a good non-acid based flux

Rick,is that you????????

Thanks for the heads up on the solder.I need to buy more solder.
Never heard of low melting point solder.Perfect for my guitar tech bag,for those emergency solder jobs where allyou haveis a BIC lighter.

I ve bought a few rolls of solder in my life,always because I'd lost the one I had.
Now Im actually having to buy one because I used a roll right to the end.A once in a lifetime occourance for me.

Mike

That's me Mike :wave:

Mike,i had to pick up more solder for myself.Kester now calls it "Hi-Tech Electronic rosen core solder,it's the same low temp solder,with a 190 degree melting point.It's hard to find in big rolls,but usually pretty easy to track down in the small rolls
Rick

Mike,i had to pick up more solder for myself.Kester now calls it "Hi-Tech Electronic rosen core solder,it's the same low temp solder,with a 190 degree melting point.It's hard to find in big rolls,but usually pretty easy to track down in the small rolls
Rick

Rick,nice to see you over here.You were always a great help and had some excellent tips and tech talk type stuff that you shared with me on some of the other boards.

Thanks for the heads up on the solder.KNowing the name will make it much easier to find.

Mike

You could also be a wuss like I was and purchase pre-soldered and wired track sections from hoslotcarracing.com. Greg gid me up one really nice as I am crappy with a soldering iron. Just another thought for you! He also carries the number 3 screws people are recommending.

As for spacing of power supply points, I admittedly only have 1 power track and nothing in between on my 45' of track and I have absolutely no issues with cars slowing away from the supply whatsoever. Of course that being said, your mileage may vary.

hey marty,
how can i get in contact and what was the cost for the work, thx for your reply.

This is Greg's site,lots of good reading in it

http://www.hoslotcarracing.com/index.html

Pre-built terminal track order form

http://www.hoslotcarracing.com/OrderForm.html#PowerTracks

What Hornet said above. Gregs site is pretty much the slot track building bible for newbies and has a TON of great stuff in it as well as lots of things to order for those of us non-handy guys that just want it done without the extra work and aggravation. ;-)

hello,

Wow how cool is that- he has so much stuff on that order form , thx guys.This is another question i have should i get more into my riggen cars , or go into the newer poly mag, type neo cars? I notice that the riggen cars drive a little more real than the one 440 poly mag car i have. Also how can i get a tool to remove those aluminium hubs from the rears of the riggen chasis? some of my riggen cars have tore up rear gears that need to be replaced...but i found no tool in the pit kits that i have from grandfathers shop?
just want your opinion on this, couldnt find another thread with this toppic

I'd say get into whatever you want to, it's going to be your track! I for one can't really keep up with the high poly or neo mag cars, I always end up trying to drive someone elses car and end up trying to embed mine in the side of the track. =) No experience with the older riggen cars, but I love the fray style t-jets and other older AFX cars. If you want something newer that you can see and is a huge load of fun to drive, I would HIGHLY suggest you get yourself a G-Jet or two, they are what got me back into this hobby.

If you're leaning towards the higher end of cars ie:poly mod/neo,your track will need upgrading,to a good power supply,and several jumpers + if you decide to run Neo cars,i'd seriously think about gluing your rails down.
Last but not least,you'll be wise to invest in one of the higher end electronic controllers to run the faster cars