http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m157/videojimmy/DSCF0321.jpg
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m157/videojimmy/DSCF0320.jpg
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m157/videojimmy/DSCF0319.jpg
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m157/videojimmy/DSCF0317.jpg
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m157/videojimmy/DSCF0314.jpg


just cut the front post, slide it back and youre good to go! :tongue:

well, there is one thing you have to do. Swap out the pick up shoes with regular AFX shoes and cut them down a TINY bit

Nice...
Looks to be simple to do also..
Thanks you for sharing!
Scott

Awesome! :thumbsup:

Wes

http://photobucket.com/albums/m157/videojimmy/DSCF0321.jpg

Fantastic!

and easy too.... the whole thing took less than 15 mins, and that includes the decals.

Man those bodies look good slammed like that...
Dan? (At Dash of course...) Do you see a slight modification of this body for your (possible) future chassis? :lol:

Scott

Nice job again Jimmy. That would take me way more than 15 minutes though. It takes me more than 15 minutes to get ready to start.

I forgot to mention one thing. There are these really high plastic dimples where the driver, roll bar and windshield are attached underneath. You'll need to remove them to get maximum "slammage" . All I did was heat up the tip of a flat head screwdriver and scrape them off like an ice scraper. Not only does it remove the dimples, but it remelts the points amd makes them completely flat

add another 5 mins to the prep time, 10 if you're nervous.

Did you cut the side mounts off of the chassis?
http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m157/videojimmy/DSCF0317.jpg

Maybe it was an F1 chassis.

yes it was an F1 chassis, but you could cut the tabs off a regular chassis.

They're looking damn cool low like this...Can't wait to receive them ( ;) Mike)

I'll probably modify this way one of the two I'm waiting for

I'll keep you informed Z.

I can't wait to finish cleaning and reorganizing my basement so I can start working on cars again, and do something with the two I did. I'm not finding much time these days. I hope to make much progress this Saturday morning.

yes it was an F1 chassis, but you could cut the tabs off a regular chassis.

An F1 chassis?
I didn't know there was such a thing.... lol
Scott

An F1 chassis?
I didn't know there was such a thing.... lol
Scott

A G-Plus chassis made to fit a G-Plus F1 body. Its the same as a regular G-Plus chassis, but with little indentations where the tabs would be.

A G-Plus chassis made to fit a G-Plus F1 body. Its the same as a regular G-Plus chassis, but with little indentations where the tabs would be.

I also did not know that Aurora made clips so that you can use wide bodies with the F1 chassis.

I also did not know that Aurora made clips so that you can use wide bodies with the F1 chassis.

They did not. You can not use the wide chassis with the tabs with an F1. What you can do is use the F1 chassis with a clip that makes it fit the wide bodies. Also I do not believe Auroa made this clip it is an after market product but not sure, SCJ would know for sure.

Roger Corrie

Aurora indeed made a clip (Made of white plastic) that converts a female G-plus or speed shifter chassis to a male chassis. To my knowledge, no one has made these as aftermarket to date.....those we have are OEM.

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www.SlotCarJohnnies.com

Aurora indeed made a clip (Made of white plastic) that converts a female G-plus or speed shifter chassis to a male chassis. To my knowledge, no one has made these as aftermarket to date.....those we have are OEM.

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www.SlotCarJohnnies.com (http://www.SlotCarJohnnies.com)

Makes you wonder why companies make two chassis types when clips are so much easier. At our club nobody can get a Tyco Pan to go as well as an F1 chassis, and I have run for a long time with a home-made clip that allows me to use an F1 chassis in the Sports class. After winning 6 A finals the other guys have only just worked out how I did it!!

It could also work with an 440 Magnum chassis by the way.... Front car is mounted on the TJet (horrible), behind on the 440 (far better)

http://img169.imageshack.us/my.php?image=p1040218yy5.jpg

Yeah, I thought it would work with just about any inline chassis. I tried a super Tomy Gplus but the front end is a little long and I didn't want to cut away any of the nose of the car. I ordered up a few Tyco narrows to try out, byt they haven't arrived yet

Could you post more pics? I would love to have a better look at the side view of the car and the underneath.

VJ, I couldnt figure how to retrieve the info directly from Imageshack so here are links pictures I've posted in a french forum....I'll do some more later

I think the G+ chassis is slightly lower than the 440 Magnum but that was all the free chassis I had ucrrently in stock. The 440 X2 might by a little larger where the traction magnets are so not sure if it will fit


http://img147.imageshack.us/my.php?image=p1040219iz8.jpg

http://img147.imageshack.us/my.php?image=p1040220lf9.jpg

http://img147.imageshack.us/my.php?image=p1040221pc7.jpg

http://img137.imageshack.us/my.php?image=p1040222gl4.jpg

I tried to post the images here by removing part of the URL but it did not work...

VJ, here are some more pics... Note that I could maybe cut the two notch retaining the brushes to make it sat it lower but I didn't already tried....
Notice that you need to cut flat on side of chassis the two parts retaining the original Tyco bodies... Hope it can help (if I had cool stickers I would have probably made some versions like yours, which definitely rocks better than mine)

http://img45.imageshack.us/img45/3110/p1040255lo9.th.jpg (http://img45.imageshack.us/my.php?image=p1040255lo9.jpg)

http://img184.imageshack.us/img184/728/p1040256ai0.th.jpg (http://img184.imageshack.us/my.php?image=p1040256ai0.jpg)

http://img125.imageshack.us/img125/2263/p1040257wc2.th.jpg (http://img125.imageshack.us/my.php?image=p1040257wc2.jpg)

Interesting...
Thanks..

Thanks for the pics Zanza. I am getting anxious to get back to mine.

Looks nice... did you cut off the plastic melted dimples on the inside of the chassis, where the windsheild, rool bar and driver are attached? You can get quite bit lower once you do that.

Just take a flat head screw driver and heat the tip of it on the stove. Then just just scrape off the extra plastic, like you're taking ice of a car windshield.

I'm going to try mounting on a 440, hopefully this week

Anyway, nice work!

VJ yes I've done it (after reading your info)...
you can win 1 to 1.5 mm thanks to this tip...

I made up a few others on G-plus chassis. After I make a 400 version, I;ll post some more pics.

I've been messing with mine and it looks like G-Plus is the way to go. All the others that will fit are a bit long an would require some chassis shortening or body mod in the front. I Turbo, LifeLike and Tyco Narrow.

yeah, AFX old school Gplus is the best chassis for the body. I'v converted almost all of my Cheetahs over to it