I don't do much painting or decaling. But occasionally I like to try( I have an unusual ailment..my hands are all thumbs). What do you use to clearcoat cars?? I have heard mention of using Future floor stuff. Do you paint this on with a brush or dip the car in it?? Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks
Jerry

Both.

A lot of people on here have mentioned that they just dip the entire body into the Future and then place it on a paper towel so the excess will soak away from the body. It's fast and easy.

I personally just use a Testors paint brush and go over the decals by hand. I like that way because I have control over how thick everything is going on and I won't be surprised by any little air bubbles later.

I think either way is fine, really, so it basically comes down to personal preference.

'doba

I use Testors rattle can clearcoat. The thought of Future makes me think about how my kitchen floor looks.

I dip in Future. Dries very thin, I dip three times with at least 2 hours between dips. I have never experienced bubbles or bubbling.

The only problems I have ever had was once I didn't let my decals dry enough and they floated out of position. One other time I experienced pooling of future and it looked coudy, but after a couple of days it dried clear.

i generally use automotive paint and clearcoat.as ive said before,alot of times if you check out your local bodyshops.they always are throwing away cans with small amounts of paint in them.i just buy a can of napa crossfire clearcoat and a small can of hardener and i run it through a harbor freight airbrush.the quality of the paint jobs you can do like this will amaze you.and a 1/2 cup of base coat paint will paint Many ho cars.same with the clear.hope this helps. :)
matt

what is the most durable clearct? future,the lacquer(amx,are you talking about model master lacquer?)or the testors clear?i have used the testors stuff,but only on static models.also,is it possible to thin and spray future?

Yes you can spray future. However for cars that are going to be handled quite frequently and raced hard it is not as good as a good automotive clear coat. I have trouble with it wearing off the sides too fast.

Roger Corrie

One process I came up with was after the spray painting and detail painting were finished and set up, I'd clearcoat the body with the Testors in a can stuff (a couple of light coats). Let that set up, then apply my decals. After the decals set for a good day, I'd dip into the future to give the decals a couple of coats of protective covering. This way I stopped ruining some of the decals I used that the clearcoat was too hot for. Wasted quite a few decals back in the early days, much less had to restart the project once that happened. :freak:


:) rr

Roadrunner is correct. Many inkjet decals that we use are not robust enough to handle the "hot" enamels or laquers. If you want a durable finish clearcoating the paint with a laquer is my personal preference. Then acrylic future over the decals, other wise some will just wear off without a sealant. I too have wasted a good detail job by using a "hot" clear coat. Many professional silk-screend water transfer decals can handle this, but inkjet decals cannot. The only way I have gotten away with getting a laquer over the decals is very and I stress very light coats. This way the volatile compounds in the clear are not enough to attack the decals or paint. After several mist coats I then apply a wet coat to finish it off. But even then its very sensitive. So I vote for the two part process as stated above.

SPED

I like the Dupli-Color Clear Coat for Truck and SUV. Its tough goes on good. I used it alot with redline restorations and customs. Doesnt hurt the inkjet decals if 2 light coats are applied over the decal after the ink dries. Its the only clear I use. I like to clear coat the car before applying decals for a good smooth finish for the decals to adhere to. I read alot about the Future but wouldnt it yellow after a few years or maybe sooner? Duplicolor Clear can be found at most auto parts stores. JR

I use future bacause of yellowing of the laquers especially on white. It doesn't yellow and after some handling where it wears it can be easily recoated and ready to go again. Even just if it's alittle touch up spot. Blends back perfectly.

At this time, for the hardest, most durable clearcoat, you cannot beat catalyzed automotive clears in this application, hands down. Especially those with higher solids. Over reduce by 10 to 15% and spray between 45 to 60 psi with an airbrush and they will layout smooth as glass and without excessive millage. Been painting HO bodies for nearly 40 years. Been painting everything else for nearly 25!!!!

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