Here is what I have:
17 hp/42"
Shift on the go

Briggs and Stratton 17 HP Twin II

Model 42A707
Type 2238 E1
Code 9803095A

I started it this spring and it ran fine. Yesterday, I tried to start it and it wouldn't fire. I check the plugs and they were clean and dry. I sprayed some engine starting fluid in and it fired right up and then shut down again. I went through that process a few times with the same results. I checked the plugs and they were still clean and dry. I took the air filter off and tried again. Same results. I disconected the fuel line from the carb and got gas to come out. I checked both plugs to make shure I was getting a spark. THey worked fine. I poured gas in the carb and tried again. It fired up and immediatly shut down. It seems like it is not getting fuel but I cant figure it out. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

Ray

Carb needs a good cleaning

if you used starting fluid (either) you could have seized your rings to your piston so it will burn oil because either drys out cylinder walls and seizes rings so dont use that stuff. as for your problem its definatly carb needs a good cleaning

i belive this engine has a fuel shut off solenoid on the bottom of the carb while cleaning the carb make sure that its working good luck

Ok, I have never cleaned a carb befor. Any pointers?

I looked at it again and noticed on the left side of the carb, as I was standing in front of the tractor, there looks like a throtle control arm. I pulled the throtle knob from high to low and the are didn't move. I pulled the chock knob and again it didn't move. I followed the throtle cabe and it connects to some levers, springs, and to another area of the carb. Same with the chock cable. Any ideas as to what that might be for? There is a screw with a spring around it in front of that unknown lever that apears to be an adjustment to stop that lever from moving all the way forward.

Does anyone know where I can get detailed pictures of how this is supposed to look?

Thanks again.

the briggs manuals are avilable here on site the govner section will give alot of info just take your time and take mental pictures good luck

if you used starting fluid (either) you could have seized your rings to your piston so it will burn oil because either drys out cylinder walls and seizes rings so dont use that stuff. as for your problem its definatly carb needs a good cleaning
I really wouldn't worry about that..... the oil in the crankcase lubes the bore/piston and rings.. the gas does very little to lube.


I'd clean the carb for sure... (tear it apart, get a carb kit, soak the carb, and blow every and all holes out with air...) if you have a camera, take pics along the way as reference.

Well, this engine most likely has a fuel shut off solenoid. Look for a wire(s) coming from the carb. That solenoid could've failed. If you find a solenoid, just turn the ignition on & off to see if it's clicking. Also, use a test light to be sure that it's getting juice. I just went thru this with my Dad's mower to get it running again.
If the solenoid checks out ok, this engine also has a fuel pump mounted on the side of the carb. There is a rebuild kit available for the fuel pump if it's suspected to be faulty.
And of course, the carb itself could be plugged up and need a good tear down & soaking in carb cleaner. Keep us informed.

I have the same B&S engine. I had the what seems to be the same problem.
Check the throttle linkage. There is a white plastic piece that slides back to front just above the fuel line & filter area. My throttle adjustment is off. I was able to slide the
white piece nearly all the way back & easily started the engine. A temporary fix until I can adjust the linkage.
Hope this helps.

We use carb. cleaner all the time to see if an engine has spark with absolutely no problems. What do you use?

I have the same engine and have worked on quite a few of the twins.Since you havent cranked it since spring the bowl is probably dry,it has a different bowl so to speak.Remove the air cleaner and you will see four bolts or hex type screws that hold the top of the carb together, inside is a float,you will have to remove the choke cable before lifting this piece off.you can pour gas into bowl after you clean it out and put top back on.For a more detailed explanantion on this carb go to http://pass.smallenginetrblshtng.com (http://pass.smallenginetrblshtng.com) and navigate through the guide, you will see pictures and description of your carb.

I have the same engine and have worked on quite a few of the twins.Since you havent cranked it since spring the bowl is probably dry,it has a different bowl so to speak.Remove the air cleaner and you will see four bolts or hex type screws that hold the top of the carb together, inside is a float,you will have to remove the choke cable before lifting this piece off.you can pour gas into bowl after you clean it out and put top back on.For a more detailed explanantion on this carb go to http://pass.smallenginetrblshtng.com (http://pass.smallenginetrblshtng.com) and navigate through the guide, you will see pictures and description of your carb.

I don't quite understand....how can it have a different bowl? A dry bowl shouldn't be any problem, as long as the fuel pump (if present) is working.

The carburetor bowl is inside the mainframe of the carb like the old one barrell carbs used on 6 cycinder cars of yesteryear, your single cyylinder engines have a bowl underneath carb body attached these days by a fuel shutoff solonoid, whereas a few years back a bolt or nut was used, anyways a twin cylinder like this guy has is basically a one barrel carb, and if bowl is dry, it will take a lot of spinning of the engine for it to catch its prime, or you will prime it several times before pump builds carb up enough to run,since pump is activated by vacumn of engine.

Sure, I know what you're talking about, I've worked on them many times. But from my experience it's not necessary to prime the bowl. It doesn't require that much spinning. Have you ever had a pump disconnected while cranking? they move a lot of gas.

Ditto.... made the mistake of having a fuel shutoff valve (left it on when I was taking the engine out, had new gas line on it but needed something to keep the gas from flowing so I used the valve off the old engine)

Well..... it blew the fuel valve knob out!! This 18hp twin had been sitting for over a year, and with a few spins it popped the valve knob right out.... so yeah they move fuel pretty good.