Bent the crank on my new :( craftsman push mower GCV160 motor.

Was wondering if there is any info on the web on this engine (parts breakdown)

A little concerned about re-assembly how to ensure i get the timing belt on correctly. I don't see a timing mark on the crank anywhere.

Can i just push the piston to the top of the stroke and turn the cam gear till both valves are closed on the compression stroke and slip the belt on at that point or am I missing something?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

So warranty wouldn't take care of it?

Well it's not that new 2yrs with a 1yr warranty. 2 yrs is still new to me.

hi, unlike the gear driven cranks with dimple to align everything, on the gcv160 you use the keyway groove on the shaft and the alignment marks on the cam pulley. Position the engine with the cylinder head up and the pto shaft horizontal to the table top. The cam pulley marks should be horizontal and even with the top of the cylinder head surface. The keyway on the pto should be at 90 degrees to the cam pulley alignment marks. Have forwarded you a copy of the manual, the infor is on page 53 of 75

Sorry, will email you a copy if you want.

Sorry, will email you a copy if you want.


you got a pm.

Sorry, will email you a copy if you want.


I would also appreciate a copy of the manual. I sent you a PM with my email address.

Thanks

any t

Sorry to revive a dead thread, but I need the same help. I'm replacing a bent crank on my GCV160 powered HRR216 and am having a difficult time figuring out how to set the timing. If anyone has a service manual that covers this, I'd appreciate a copy.

Thanks in advance,
Chad

http://www.hobbytalk.com/bbs1/attachment.php?attachmentid=33726&stc=1

There is a casting mark on the cylinder sleeve just above the crankshaft. It amounts to a small line running down towards the crankshaft ( l ) it is lined up with the timing mark on the gear of the crankshaft. Set the camshaft as shown in the diagram in the link above and install the timing belt.

Best of Luck :thumbsup:

Thanks 30yearTech, but I have one more question. I saw the line on the cylinder sleeve, but the timing mark? There was what appears to be a small arrow on the "crank" portion of the crank shaft. (not sure what you call it, but the extended portion the connecting rod connects to.) I aligned that arrow with the line on the sleeve. Hopefully that is correct, because I just buttoned her up (needed to get this done pronto.) If not, I can still break it apart again. Let me know.

Thanks again.

See the attached photo to see what I'm talking about with the arrow.

Well no need to answer, I decided to try my luck, and it's running great. I turned it over by hand to check the cycle, and everything appeared to be correct just on a visual inspection. Bolted it up and it cranked on the first pull. I had to fiddle with the governor a bit to get it to run smooth, but it's working just like the day I bought it.

Thanks again guys. And hopefully the above photo will help someone out, and if you need a pict of the cylinder marking, I can get those too.

Sorry, I forgot that the mark was cast into the shaft and not punched on the gear.

Glad to hear you got it going. :)

Ok, new to this area and new to small engines. I've done enough car work to take this on and I really have nothing to lose.

Accidentally hit a small tree stump (an offshoot of a larger stump) and bent the shaft and blade holder of my GCV160. Gonna try replacing the crankshaft before buying the holder in case it doesn't go so well. Any further advice?

There are four or so crankshafts listed on some sites. Is there a mark on it to tell exactly which one I have?

i.e.
Crankshaft (N1-type), Crankshaft (N2-type), Crankshaft (N3-type), Crankshaft (specs: BHH, EHHB), Crankshaft (specs: E5AH and starting with "N5"), Crankshaft (spec: NBL1), Crankshaft (spec: N7A1), Crankshaft (specs: STA1, STL1, RTL1, R3A1)


I assume the thrust washer should be replaced as well. The bend is minimal at the seal and no leaks are present. Should I bother replacing the oil seals?

Do folks here usually buy the real gaskets or use the rtv/hi-temp silicone tube stuff?

I've read the above comments and appreciate all the info.

luciferX,

What is the brand and model / spec number off of your engine?

The mower is an HRR2162SDA-DE s/n MZCG-6979144

You probably need the specs off the engine. I don't have them but I will go look tonight and reply again. I now know where to look.

13310-ZM0-610 CRANKSHAFT (N3-TYPE) (Honda Code 5664495).

This is the crankshaft part number I came up with. Wherever you order the crankshaft from, give them your model and serial numbers and let them verify the correct part number. That way if there is a problem with the part, it's on them to make it right.

This engine uses High Temp Silicon Sealant for the sump to cylinder assembly.

It's up to you, I have used the old seals on some engines and never had a problem. The seal is replaceable without taking the engine apart so if it ever started leaking you could replace it at that time, but it's up to you. I only replace the thrust washer if it looks like it needs to be replaced.

The engine is labelled Honda 160 cm3 so we know it is a gcv160.

The other code is
GJAEA-2190062 MY1*

Any idea how to decode this?

As for the shaft, the differences are related to how long the shaft extends from the engine and the size of the key-ways. Still, I'd like to be sure.
Having the parts supplier double check sounds like a FINE idea.

Your suggestion is what Plano listed on their parts site.

Thanks again.

and it was easier than I thought.

Bent crankshaft removal did not require removing the piston or rings. The disassembly took an hour or so because I was documenting the steps. New parts are on order. I will post with pictures if I get it all working.

I shouldn't have hesitated to take on this job. It really isn't that bad.

and it was easier than I thought.

Bent crankshaft removal did not require removing the piston or rings. The disassembly took an hour or so because I was documenting the steps. New parts are on order. I will post with pictures if I get it all working.

I shouldn't have hesitated to take on this job. It really isn't that bad.

Glad to hear you say that. I have the same problem myself. Honda Harmony mower HRR2163TDA Engine is a GCV160 S/N GJEA 3994498 MO81. I will be calling plano on Monday for parts. Would be interested in any pointers from your experience.

Thanks!!!

I will try to document the procedure for those of you who did what I did: hit something and bent the crank on a gcv160. I am no 30yr tech. I know cars but never claimed to be a small engine pro. Although things worked out well for me, I am not responsible if you try this and ruin your mower or hurt yourself. All disclaimers apply. Be careful.



1. Disconnect the spark plug. I removed it so no compression possible but I am a little paranoid.

2. Empty the oil: Remove the dip stick and tip the mower so the oil leaves through the dipstick tube. My gcv160 didn't have a drain plug bolt as some do.

3. Get out the digital camera and take pictures of everything. Specifically, note the springs and cable connections on the engine for throttle, governor and kill switch. Disconnect the throttle and kill switch cables from the engine.

4. Drain the gas and disconnect the fuel line. There is a small screw at the base of the carburator bowl that when removed will drain the rest of the gas in the mower. Remember to leave the fuel cutoff switch open so all the fuel drains out. You will wear it later if you don't.

5. Remove the three nuts that hold the starter cord assy and tank (the big red plastic) onto the mower. Set it aside somewhere safe.

6. Remove the blades and blade holder (3 bolts, washers). There is a key in there that is really easy to lose. On my machine, the blades and the holder (sometimes called a shoe) got bent as well. Plano to the rescue. The new shoe came with a key without ordering it separately.

7. Remove the drive belt. No need to actually take it out, just get it off the crankshaft pulley. You can take the tension off the belt by grabbing the drive pulley (not on the engine) which is spring loaded and pulling it by hand toward the shaft pulley.

8. Remove the belt pulley from the bottom of the crankshaft. It may require your gear puller. I used a marker to note which side goes toward the engine and which toward the blades. Don't know if you can install this up-side-down but better paranoid than wrong.

9. Remove the four bolts that hold the engine on the mower deck.

10. Take the engine inside to someplace easier to work.

Got the engine off the mower deck and inside the garage/basement...


11. Place the engine on an upside down milk crate so no pressure is on the exposed crankshaft (even though you're gonna replace it anyway).

12. Remove the rev limiter (governor) arm by disconnecting the three springs and loosening the arm nut. Remove the arm and set aside. The service manual shows how to put the springs back but take a picture. I am not sure if this needs re-adjustment after reinstalling, it seemed ok and sounded like it was limiting at the right point. No idea how to measure what rpm the motor is spinning at.

13. Remove the flywheel. This is the top block of metal (a disc) with the fan blades on it. There is one nut holding it on (simple) but you'll need to hold it still to take it off. I used large pliers set with a rag to prevent gouging, on the four metal tabs on the top to keep it from spinning. Once the nut is off, you'll see a key notch under where the nut was. Rotate the flywheel until it points roughly to the spark plug. Next, take a two tooth gear puller and set the teeth at the two places marked on the flywheel for the puller. Remove the flywheel. It didn't want to come off for my but finally popped off with a bang. My gear puller was a bit small (6" craftsman model) so the metal mesh got a little bit bent. I straightened it with pliers afterward. Don't tell anyone. Remember to find the D shaped key left on the crankshaft, you'll need it again and it is easy to misplace. Also, examine this key. I am told it can be bent easily and if so might throw the timing off. If it looks at all disfigured, replace it. Mine was fine.

A couple of warnings: I have a gear puller and a torque wrench. I don't have a piston ring compressor. You won't need a ring compressor for this job if you keep the piston in the cylinder bore. It can come out and if it does, you'll be buying the compressor. It isn't expensive but if you're careful and don't allow the piston to move, you won't need it.

Second, once the valve cover is off (the next step), if you turn over the engine, the two pins may fall out and the rocker/lifter arms will fall off. There are two sets of (pin, arm). These ride the cam and open the valves. They are easy to put back but be aware and don't get spooked if they fall out. The arms are different (mirror images of each other) and obviously won't fit if you get them mixed up.

13. Remove the valve cover. This is the tin piece with the big letters "OHC". It is held in place by 4 bolts and the rtv gasket material. It will come off without bending if you are careful. I am told folks bend this often. It wasn't that hard so no excuses.

14. Remove the 8 bolts that hold the bottom and top halves of the engine together. Honda calls the bottom half "the oil pan". Their cool design makes this easy. The bolts come out and the RTV gasket will keep it together. The mating surfaces need to be smooth so don't pry it open with anything that can gouge metal. There will be a little oil left in the pan so be ready with rags. The crankshaft stays with the top half.

15. The oil pan (bottom half of the engine) will have a washer inside where the crankshaft was. It is now free so note where it goes and which side was up. It is not a bad idea to replace this even if it is ok.

16. This is the most time consuming part of the whole process: Remove the RTV gasket material and clean the surfaces for new stuff. Permatex Ultra Grey was recommended but I bought the HondaBond stuff (also grey color). The original gasket material was black.

I am sure there is a better way to remove the gasket material but I don't know it. I used a lot of rags and a putty knife. Be very careful to scrape and clean it well without gouging the metal. Leave a big scratch and you may have leaks later. Try not to let the shavings get into the open engine or valves. I know I am being paranoid here but be careful. Clean the top/bottom engine mating surfaces and the valve cover/head mating surfaces until smooth, clean and shiny.

Mower engine is off, two halves are separate and clean, valve cover off...

Take another picture: the cam now with the cover off.

17. With the valve cover off, there is a 1/4 inch pin you can get at to remove the cam gear. It is on the underside of the engine and is partially covered by the valve cover you just removed. Just wiggle/turn and pull out this pin. It should take very little effort and the cam will go free.

18. Remove the timing belt from the cam and remove the cam gear.

19. With the cam out, take the belt off the crankshaft and remove completely. Set aside.

20. Look at the crank shaft. The weighted side should be centered, pointed away from the piston. This is where the piston is at top dead center. Turn the crank by hand to align if not. Note the connecting rod cap. This is the piece that keeps the piston connecting rod on the crank shaft. There are two bolts that hold it on. Mine has a tab on one side. With a marker, put a dot on one side on both the cap and the connecting rod so you don't accidentally flip the cap when reinstalling. I didn't do this step but I was careful. If you do flip it, the tab may hit the oil dipstick or engine wall when you reassemble.

Take another picture. You want to remove the two bolts and the cap but keep the piston and connecting rod from rotating.

21. Remove the crank shaft and verify the new one is the same.

22. Put some grease (or just clean oil if that is all you have) on the new crank shaft where the connecting rod mounts and where the top and bottom pass through berings. Install the new crank shaft by sliding it into place.

23. Reinstall the connecting rod and cap around the crank shaft assuring the dots made earlier line up and that the same side of the cap is up as before. Torque the two bolts down to spec with a torque wrench.

24. Verify the crank shaft still turns freely by hand and that nothing binds up.

25. Align the crank shaft as before with the big weighted side away from the piston. The side toward the piston should have an arrow on it right above where the connecting rod and cap mount. This should align with a line on the head inside the engine. See the picture "shaft_alignment.jpg". If I took the picture straight on, the marks would align better than they look.

26. Reinstall the timing belt, cam gear and pin. With the crank shaft aligned, the cam needs to be installed so the back of it has the notches aligned with the top of the head. See the second picture "cam_alignment.jpg".

27. Make sure the washer in the oil pan is lined up and verify the two engine halves fit back together. If it looks like it aligns, split the engine halves and apply the gasket material to the mating surfaces. This stuff smells so make sure you have windows open. Put it on thin and spread it with a small disposable paint brush. Apply to both sides and wait one minute or so the directions on the tube suggest. Put the halves together and torque the 8 bolts to spec with the torque wrench.

If you use too much it will drip inside the engine (not good) so make it thin but cover the mating surfaces completely.

28. Reinstall the valve cover with the same goo. Four bolts with the torque wrench again.

29. Let it sit and cure. I am sure this is unnecessary but I was about done by this point.

Engine halves back together and valve cover back on...

30. Reinstall the key and flywheel. Torque the nut down to spec with the torque wrench. The key should point to the spark plug if nothing has moved.

31. Reinstall the governor arm and springs. Glad you took the pictures yet?

32. Reinstall the engine on the mower. There are four bolts.

33. Reinstall the pulley on the crank shaft bottom and reinstall the drive belt. The shoe will keep the pulley in place.

34. Reinstall the key and shoe, blades. You bought new blades, yes?

35. Reinstall the gas tank, fuel line and starter pull. Three nuts is it for this plus the clamp for the fuel line.

36. Reinstall the two cables: throttle and blade clutch.

37. Install a new spark plug, spark plug boot. A new air cleaner would be nice too if you are going all out.

38. Add new oil to the engine. This is not a good one to forget.

38. Add gas and verify nothing leaks/drips.

39. Mow your lawn and hang the bent crank shaft as your trophie.



My crank shaft was bent but not so bad that I needed to replace berings or seals. Your mileage may vary. Obviously, look for broken stuff and replace what is necessary. Even with all the gas drained, mine started first pull.

A lot of pictures are available if anyone wants more of any step.

Good luck.

You can email all the pictures you have to me, I would like to have them in my archive of Info I am accumulating.

Thanks --
Ken

kms@imower.com

Hi, I am about to attempt the removal and replacement of the crankshaft on a GCV160a. I am - shall we say, 'mechanically challenged,' LOL! DIY fix-it jobs and I don't get along very well. But, out of desperation, and a lack of $$$ at the moment, I really have no other choice but to try and do this job myself. Hmmm. We'll see how it goes.

LuciferX - I really appreciate the fact that you posted detailed, step by step instructions. I think they are going to help tremendously. So, thanks in advance!!! However, I really think it would benefit me even more to have pics to go by. You mentioned that you have pics available. Could you please email some - or all of those to me? Either that or post them here - whichever way you prefer is perfectly fine with me.
Thank you.

I have not yet started this project yet. I hope to complete it this week. As of right now, I have the parts that I am going to need, namely the crankshaft, LOL. But, I also got the two oil seals - just in case, the o-ring that the service manual is telling me not to re-use, and obviously - the service manual too. Oh, and I bought a gear puller from a local auto parts store today since you mentioned that one would be needed. I don't know if any other parts stores do this or not. But in my case, I called the store and asked if they had the pullers in stock. I was told that yes, they do. But, as a big bonus, they also told me that if I pay the $49.95 in advance for the puller, I could simply bring it back to the store when I was done with it - and get a full refund on it. No rental charges involved. Not too shabby of a deal - if you ask me!

I will wait for a few days and see if maybe I get a response on the pic request. If not, I'll just try to do as best as I can without them. It really doesn't sound all THAT difficult. But, remember this - we are talking about someone who used to take things apart every now and them to, um, fix them (LOL!) and somehow, some way - I ALWAYS seemed to end up with 'spare' parts when I completed the job. Needless to say, those 'spare' parts were not spare in any sense of the word. I would eventually figure out where they belonged, but still...Yes, this particular job ought to be quite interesting for me. Oh, how I am looking forward to this, LOL!

If you could provide those pics - or any other helpful tips regarding this, I would greatly appreciate it! Thanks in advance,
Jim

Oh, sorry folks. Just one quick question, if I may?

When I shopped for the crankshaft (a type N3???), the first place I looked was the Honda site. They wanted, if I remember correctly, $160 or so for it. Too much since a NEW motor would only cost me about $200! So, I called up a local place that can order this kind of part and was told it would cost $115. OK, so that is a little better cost-wise. Then, I searched the internet, and came up with a site with the address, www.jackssmallengine.com Anyway, on there, the crankshaft listed for only (roughly) $24 or so, + shipping. $32 and some change in all. So, I ordered it. The part came, and the box is clearly labeled as Genuine Honda parts. My question is: Did I pay the right price for it and really get Honda parts? Or, am I getting some Honda knock-off part. Is it really possible that the difference in cost could vary by such a HUGE amount, as it did in my case?

Just curious, that's all.

Thanks again. Sorry for the long post before...And this one too!

I paid something like $30 for mine and it came in a real Honda stamped, brown cardboard box. It was exactly the same as the old one save for some date code like stampings. It was a real "authorized" part I have no doubt.

I also have no doubt a real one should cost around $30 plus a fortune for shipping 'cause they are heavy. If folks are charging 4x that, they just want to sell more engines than parts.

Jack's small engines is a great place as far as my experience. I bought from plano but either sounds better than someone asking over $100 for a $30 part.

As for the pictures, I took a lot. I'll figure out the best ones and post them tonight or tomorrow. Glad to help.

I think the pics will be a definite help for me. I really do appreciate your help in this. Thanks again!!!!

Jim

Here are some of the better pictures.

Set #2

Set #3, one set left

last pictures from the set. More are available but the pretty much duplicate what is here. Good luck to all those trying this. Hope this helps.

Oh yes, I think those will help me out a lot. Thanks so much for posting them. It is appreciated very much!!! I think I'll be doing this either today, or tomorrow. Hopefully, it will only take me a few hours. Seems like it should take about that long though. We'll see....

Thanks again!
Jim

Sorry guys, but there seems to be a little trouble in paradise, LOL!

I did everything as instructed - and right now, I am up to the part where I now must remove the flywheel. I have the puller on in the correct locations (as indicated on the flywheel itself), and the 'key' facing toward the spark plug and all that good stuff. But, no matter how I try, I simply cannot get that darn flywheel off! Let me step back for a moment: I did take the flywheel nut off - yes. Just in case you were wondering? So, it should now come off, right? The problem is that no matter how much pressure I apply to the gear puller, the flywheel is simply not budging. I didn't expect it to be easy, but to be honest - I'm tightening down on the gear puller so hard, and with so very much pressure that I am seriously afraid that something, somewhere has to give under that much force. My main concern is the flywheel itself, and perhaps that cracking, or maybe breaking apart???

Any clue as to how I can remedy this situation? I've given up for tonight. But, unless I get that flywheel off, I'm essentially sunk. Could I be missing an important step in this process? I'm totally stumped...

If anyone can provide help in this, I would be ever so grateful for it!

Thanks in advance,
Jim

One last post on this thread from me. I managed to get the flywheel off, so that problem has been resolved. It took a lot of penetrating oil, and lots of elbow grease, but I did it. Thanks anyway!

Yea, mine didn't come off easily but it did pop off without too much trouble. The thing is that you shouldn't hit it with a hammer to break it loose (as much as it is tempting to do so) as you'll probably stress the bearings, seals, and everything else in there.

Penetrating oil (liquid wrench, Marvin's mystery oil and the likes) are great but can penetrate too much. They're meant for rusty bolts. Be sure to use sparingly and clean it up once done. You don't want that stuff sitting on seals too long.

Glad you got the flywheel off. Let us know when you are up and running, as I'm sure you will be soon.

I need to fix my crankshaft too. I snapped the bold off again that holds the blade. I usually drill the bolt and use an "easy-out" to get them out but the broken bolt was at a high angle and I wound up drilling into the crankshaft.. it's totally screwed now.

I don't know witch type of crank I need and the best place to get it. I can only find the SN number on the engine block, no part #
Gjaea494604453a*

The mower is a Troy-Built
Mower 11a542q711

So can anyone tell me what part number I need for my crank and a good place to get it?

Thanks,
Bart

I need to fix my crankshaft too. I snapped the bold off again that holds the blade. I usually drill the bolt and use an "easy-out" to get them out but the broken bolt was at a high angle and I wound up drilling into the crankshaft.. it's totally screwed now.

I don't know witch type of crank I need and the best place to get it. I can only find the SN number on the engine block, no part #
Gjaea494604453a*

The mower is a Troy-Built
Mower 11a542q711

So can anyone tell me what part number I need for my crank and a good place to get it?

Thanks,
Bart

MTD site shows your engine model to be GCV160 LAS3A

Crankshaft should be Honda 13310-ZM0-610 I would give the above model and your serial number and let them verify the correct part number for your engine.

Best of Luck...

Oh man thanks for the reply! Where do you find this info?!

Bart

Oh man thanks for the reply! Where do you find this info?!

Bart

http://buymtdonline.arinet.com/scripts/EmpartISAPI.dll?MF&App=MTD54&TF=Empartweb&Lang=EN&searchDB=MTD%20Brand&loginID=MTDCon%20&LoginPWD=&xmlPostDest=http://www.buymtdonline.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/processShoppingCart_10101_15601_-1_19502


http://www.css-club.net/honda/pp-service/info/index.asp

I have a Honda HRC216KHXA with a bent crankshaft. I am trying to find all the info i can to try to do this project myself. I took it to the local repair shop and they wanted $600.00 + to fix it. He was willing to make me a "deal" on a new one. I did a little surfing on the net and found a new crankshaft for about $150.00. Does this sound right? I am ok with tools but have never torn a engine apart like this. The mower is only a few years old so i would like to fix it. Where can i find more info about this engine. I saw the pictures in this post but i am unsure if it is the same engine. Any help would be great thanks

$150.00 is about right for the crankshaft.

The engine in this post is not the same as the one on your mower.

You can find some service information at the following website:

http://www.honda-engines-eu.com/en/welcome.html

click on the service link and then the shop manuals, the engine on your mower should be a GXV 160.

Best of Luck...

I too am contemplating replacing my crankshaft.

My Husqvarna 5521CHVB walk behind mower runs very rough when the engine is put under the slightest strain. A local small engine mechanic spun the blade and told me the crankshaft was bent and it wasn't worth repairing. This $300 mower is only 2 years old. So, after reading some of these posts I am thinking of tackling the job myself.

I think the engine is a GCV160A. The numbers I found are GJAEA 2466395. This mower has recoil start, constant throttle (not sure if that is what its called), and automatic choke return. What numbers are required to ensure I get the correct parts.

Thanks! :)

The numbers you have should be the right ones to locate a crankshaft. A bent shaft generally will not cause the engine to bog. You should check the flywheel key as it may be sheared and the ignition timing may be off.

Here's a little background on my trouble since you don't think it is necessarily a bent crankshaft.

I hit a stump not long after purchasing the mower and it mangled the blade but after replacing the blade it ran fine. About a year ago I hit another stump, again mangling the blade but after blade replacement the mower seemed to run fine except the automatic choke return would no longer shut off automatically. Over the last few months the mower is beginning to bog down (run rough/lose torque) when cutting grass - there is also black smoke from the exhaust when this happens.

If it is a timing/flywheel key issue will I be able to repair from the top or will I have to tear the motor down?

Thanks:confused:

Just to be clear, I did not mean that you did not have a bent shaft. I only meant that a bent shaft will generally not cause an engine to run rough or bog down. Running a mower with a bent shaft can lead to premature engine and mower deck failure, due to the vibration caused by a bent crankshaft.

That being said, your problem is most likely a dirty air filter and a fouling spark plug. Replace the air filter and spark plug and I would bet that the engine will run as good as you remember it ran after you last replaced the blade.

Best of Luck... :thumbsup:

Thanks 30YT...I went out today and replaced the air filter and spark plug. It started right up and I spent the last 45 mins cutting grass and it hasn't "bogged down" once.

Thanks :)

Thanks for the update, glad it all worked out for you. :thumbsup: