(((EDIT--- MY EVADER ST IS NOW FIXED! Thanks to everyone who helped on this thread)))
Now that I know the boundries, I shall treat my evader with greater care and respect. ;)





I am now a level 3 RC mechanic (in other words still a noob) :hat:

Well honestly from the sounds of the steel beam, it would have broke just about everything out there weather its a Associated T4, Losi MF2, etc. really about the warrenty thing, I would just order the parts that are under Stress tech. and put it together yourself that way you can learn how to work on the car yourself and have a better understanding of the car
good luck and have fun

just so ya know the servo gears stripped, all ya need is a futubapackage of s3003 gears about 5$ check your lhs for em good luck :)

the so called stress tech parts were never sturdy for me. they broke alot. you might consider upgrading to graphite.

Yeah that is a good idea (graphite parts), and I probably should just order the parts and learn how this thing is put together. Very well, I'll get to work on it. Thanks for the suggestions. :thumbsup:

I also would say your servo gear has stripped , If you do get the 3003 servo replacement gears, get 2 or 3 sets to have on hand... Or just buy another standard futaba 3003 servo and also get the 3003 gears and rebuild the stripped one...

Also you may want to loosen ( re-adjust ) the servo saver arm to give it more flex and less pron to strip another servo gear...

We found that a dead on hit most of the time at somekind of angle usally will break some part of the car...

We have 8 evader st's ... They are really tough trucks!!!!

We have never had a part to just break... It has always been from hitting something solid at a full or high throttle speed...

I would probably guess you were in front of the pack when you crashed???

Actually what we do is buy scratch and dents cars for our parts supply...

We like to also put a 90 tooth spur gear and a 17 turn motor with a 7 cell pack for more take off and more fun... You can do this with the standard ESC ...

Wow! 8 evaders! That must be a lot of fun :hat: Yeah I was in the lead when I crashed, as this thing was super fast :)
So I should expect to go through a lot of servo gears then? I have not taken my servo box apart yet, but glancing at it, it seems there is a lot of parts I have to remove just to even get at it :confused:

After a closer inspection tonight I also just noticed that I am missing the bottom part of my left front shocks set (the plastic piece the shock spring rests into)..... Sheesh, I really did a number on my poor evader :freak:

I'll keep ya'll updated as I get this sorted out in the next few days ;)

Personally I would buy another servo futaba S3003 (around $11.00 at TH) and also get a replacement sx-100 gear set (around $4.50 at TH) to repair the damaged one to keep on hand as extra servo... The 2 servo's are pretty much the same... both by futaba...


If you loosen the servo saver arm, it will prevent most of the servo gear damage... You will see the servo saver arm in more detail when you remove the servo casing and get a better understanding how it works...

If you don't find the shock spring cap ,get part # DTXC9068 ... ($2.69 at TH )...that is shock part set evst, it includes 2 of the caps and 2 of the rod ends that might later on get stripped out ...

Far as the servo removal ,it was a little complicated at first ,but with a little practice it is very simple... I'll PM ya on that...

I would like to make a couple of comments to help you look at things in a different perspective...
If you hit a steel beam with a full size car going over 20 mph what happens?
So why would you expect a small plastic vehicle at that speed to endure a crash like that with no damage?

As you are getting started in RC, try to learn the terminology so when you do ask questions we're not trying to guess what you broke or the problems you are having.

Sounds like you broke a rear A Arm. Did you bend the Hinge pin also? That is the pin that goes thru the A Arm at the chassis. Also did you damage the hinge pin mounts? These are all things to look at. Also check to see if you bent the shock shaft.

All the advise that was given on this thread is good stuff.. RTR vehicles are great to get you started... Now that you are having some small issues, You will have a chance to dig into and get to know your vehicle.

Don't expect them to be tanks... Even RC Tanks break if you run them into something solid. They are very durable though and hopefully you will continue to grow in your experience and knowledge of the vehicles and you will have even more fun.
Dan

seems to me it was the front that was ripped off, since it stripped his servo as well. but other than that, I completely agree with DJ1978, these things are delicate, and need to be treated with respect.

second point. dont waste your money on graphite parts, they arent any stronger than the standard parts. in fact they are actually easier to break. Graphite parts are made to be lighter and stiffer. This gives the car/truck a more stable and reactive characteristic. The graphite is stiffer, which means it is also more brittle. Meaning it will break before it bends, like the stock plastic parts. If you dont agree with me, attached is a document from the professionals at Associated Electrics.

I too would not waste my money on graphite parts ...or much aluminum either ...

For back yard bashing or entry level racing my priorities would be to get ...

#1. 1 or 2 good decent Varible adjustable peak chargers...

#2. At least 3 or 4 NiMH 3000 or higher MAH batteries...

#3. A good battery discharger to maintain your batteries...

#4. A decent stock motor...

#5. At least 1 or 2 light modified motors ( 17 or 19 turn )

#6. At least 3 or 4 different pinion gear sizes with less teeth than the stock...

#7. Evader ST has a 88 tooth spur , Get an extra 88 tooth spur and a 90 tooth spur ...

#8. A second car or truck of the same make and model for extra screws bolts and parts...

#9. I would also try to get a good grade of electronic connector such as the ws deans type...

#10. A good decent soldering iron with a minimun of 60 watts...

#11. Have at least 2 different type of tires on hand for different terrains...

#12 . Have at least 2 different weight of shock springs on hand ...

This list could go on and on ... We believe the first 8 listed could put a lot of fun in your r/c experience... Part of the fun in R/c is getting to know you car and experimenting with and getting to know what it will do and is actually capable of doing... You will be absolutely suprised what 1 tooth in a gear , or a different shock spring ,or a different motor can do for your r/c car and or truck ...

ok, first of all, don't get scared of graphite like some people. graprite is a great componant for racing. however, you don't want it on your whole truck. things like your chassis are better left plastic because you don't but you should get a graphite trannybrace because that will break so easily. second, you can't just put any old pinnion gear on your truck. it will ruin your motor. if you put to many tooth pinnoin gear it will put a load on the motor. eventually the motor will start to get extremly hot, then start to smoke and get a horrible smell to it. the pitch is also a factor. your gears are 48 pitch. the pitch tells you how far apart the teeth are. if you buy new pinnons, you must make sure they are 48 pitch.if you do get a stock motor or 19 turn motor,(i would recomend it, they are so much faster!), get a 19 or 18 tooth pinnon.also if you don't want to frequently change your servo gears, get a metel geared servo.you can get a JR z590 for $40. me personaly was not impressed by the evader. it took so much maintainence, it broke so easily. especialy working on the servo. there must have been 12 screws you had to take out to get to the servo. i know right now yuor in for bashing, but if you ever race, i would defenatly get a xxt or t4. oh yeah, don't get it wet!

O.K, Standard set of front Evst a-arms $4.50 verses $10.00 for set of front Evst grapite a arms... MUMMMM , That's pretty much a no brainer for back yard bashing...

But there is the evader pro RTR with lots of graphite for a price of around $209.00 , But at that price I would definitely go for the LOsi XXX-T or the Associated T-4 ...

We have run evader ST's for 4 or 5 years now and have broken a few parts, but we yet to break tranny brace ... When most parts broke it was well under 60 degrees in weather temp...

Most definitely use 48 pitch pinion and spur gears on the evader st ...

The evader st rtr comes with a 18 T pinion gear and a 88 T spur gear (48 pitch)... We tried a 19 and 20 tooth (48 pitch) pinion , but the 20 tooth was to much and the 19 tooth pinion only worked well with street tires and a P2K2 pro stock motor on a hard asphalt or concrete surface...

The evader st comes with a 20 turn motor , for every turn you go down in motor go down one on the pinion when using the factory setup...(Example : 20 turn motor 18 tooth pinion ; 19 turn motor 17 tooth pinion ; 17 turn motor 15 tooth pinion (This is with the factory spur and tires and esc).... You can try different gears in between these but don' let antything get to hot...

No offense on the metal gears for the servo , But that will just mean more impact on other parts of the steering system ...

Best remedy for saving servo gears is to loosen the servo saver arm...We yet to break another servo gear since we loosened ours...

Actually there is 10 allen head screws and 4 phillips head screws to remove the servo ...This can be remedied with a little imagination and a dremel rotary tool...

It's easy ...(While your 2 plates are off )Cut the x cross members out on the 2 plates then the next time all you have to do is remove the 2 screws on the bottom of the truck to remove your servo...

who's we?

there is nothing wrong with metal gears. i know when i was a basher, and switched my sevo i helped so much copared to plastic. and you can't loosen the servo saver too much or you won't be able to steer. and about the graphite, lets say he breaks his a arm twice. thats allready 10 dollars. and you probably didn't break a tranny brace because you knew how to drive. but if you land on the back end it breaks like nothing. you say you haven't broken parts but hey, you know how to drive. this guy is brand new to this. so parts will break more than they did for you.

No , we did'nt say we have'nt broken any parts ... We have broken some parts but yet to break a tranny brace...

Most of the time it as been when we have hit something solid most of the time at an angle...

Take the servo saver off and smooth the 2 surfaces (with very light sand paper )that meet in the v section of the servo saver arm ...Then use a very light oil in the v section groove of the servo saver arm ...

Then when replaceing the servo saver arm, turn the nut on only about 2 half turns ... Then adjust in half turn intevals until you have desired tension...It is all according to the terrain of how much tension you need...It needs to be only as loose as you can stand for your steering to break away...

But like you say for back yard bashing why spend $40.00 bucks on a servo when all you have to do is spend $4.50 on a replacement servo gear set and $11.00 on a extra servo to have on hand... That's 2 servo's for $15.50 verses $40.00 for one servo...

I'm by far no expert driver and a lot of the times There is a 7 and 8 year old behind the radio of 2 of the trucks...

Believe me those 2 kids will put'em through a true test of durability...

I have seen these trucks do 4 or 5 cartwheels ,land on the wheels and take off again... We have seen these trucks jump and climb over each other and never stop...

WHO IS WE?????

Oh; I apoligize for ignoring that question , But when I refer to we, I am mostly talking about me ,my freinds ,and my family which help me run the 8 evaders...

I would like to make a couple of comments to help you look at things in a different perspective...
If you hit a steel beam with a full size car going over 20 mph what happens?
So why would you expect a small plastic vehicle at that speed to endure a crash like that with no damage?

As you are getting started in RC, try to learn the terminology so when you do ask questions we're not trying to guess what you broke or the problems you are having.

Dan



Yes acutally, I did expect it to survive crashes like that..... Maybe because I am dumb, or it is because some guys here on another thread, told me them Radio Shack Yamaha ATV 4x4 RC's were fragile JUNK compared to these professional hobby cars, which are supposedly soo much stronger..... This turned out to be bad advice, as those "TOYS" are still running strong, even after countless head on collisions with each going at about 19mphs each!!! 4 solid months of hard abuse and they are still running!

My evader st is a sissy compared to those quote- "TOYS" which broke on it's first full battery run, doing crashes only half as intense as what they were doing........ So excuse me if I am just a tad bit dissapointed with what some fellows here called superior. It was because of low opinions here about the Radio Shack RC's, that ultimately led me to think the Evader ST was Superman.

I don't regret buying my Evader, as I love it. And now that I know the rules, I shall baby this vehicle from now on.... It is an awesome dirt\gravel racer, not a stunter, and it shall be treated as such.
I don't mean to sound totally negative about the evader... Really, I liked it enough that I might be getting another one in the future even.

Also, sorry for not using the exact terminology. I was too lazy at the time to search out the numbers on each part that broke, which I later did when I ordered them from my local hobby shop, so I felt no need to post them here.

in response to klown---

No, it was the back right wheel that ripped off completely. The rear right arm ripped off from the top left corner, and the shock spring loop broke off as well.





After a long wait, I finally have my parts and shall be fixing this evader tonight in a few minutes. A big thanks to everyone who posted suggestions\advice (especially you trackman) :)


I'll let you all know how the repair and test\drive goes when I get back online in a few hours. Here goes! :freak: :drunk: :hat:

ok, got my rear arm assembly all fixed up after about 1 hour of work, and a baddly cut thumb from trying to to cut off the shock end piece (plastic loop piece which slides onto the ball joint on the arm). I was using a knife like an idiot cause I was too impatient to find wire cutters, and one slip put a knife deep into my thumb :drunk:
Why was I cutting that piece off?-- I was unable to unscrew this since it was on tight enough that the whole piston rod just turned with it, no matter how hard I clamped it down with a wrench before twisting. Man, if only ya guys could have seen the blood spurt :p

Nevertheless, I won the bloody battle in the end, and took a test run before working on the steering servo... It was an absolute riot, even though the steering was pretty bad turning to the right, and I had cut myself good to get that far... I just loved seeing my car back in action after all this waiting :thumbsup:


After a few glorious minutes of running, I shut it down, and got to work on the servo, which some of you fellows mentioned has stripped gears..... I only took a few parts off as suggested by trackman to get the servo box out. After taking the servo box apart, I was stunned to see 2 of the gears were baddly stripped (you guys were 100% correct on that). The larger black servo gear piece that pokes out of the servo box was the most sevearly stripped. From the range it turns in, most of the gear teeth were simply, gone.... It is amazing this thing was turning as well as it did to the left, as the damage was soo extensive.....
I easily replaced the gears, rubbed some of the excess lube that was in there over the new gears, and sealed it up (what kind of lube is that anyways? all I know is that it is white, and greesy).
I proceeded to screw the servo mounts back on, then realized something.... I could not figure out, how I was supposed to put the rest of this back together :freak:
I struggled for about 1 hour trying to figure it out, before I got too tired and frustrated. Is the servo arm supposed to attatch so that it points down, left, up? I am sure I could figure it out eventually, but I am done for the night.

I will read up here before getting to work on it again in the morning..... I have to admit, this is kinda fun, and quite the learning experience... I just wish stupidity did not hurt as bad as it does right now :wave:


I really hope the servo gears don't break so easy in the future. Why aren't these parts (gears) made of metal anyways?

well, first of all you are doing pretty good. are you using the instuctions, because it has a full illustration of the car to show you where everything goes. and about the servo arm, turn the radio on then the car (always!). once the car is on the sevo will be centered. put the arm on facing up, and a little to the right. this will be a frustrating task, but once you have the servo arm on put it together and make sure the tires are straight. if they are not take it out and if the tires were pointing to the right move the arm left if the tires are pointing left move the arm right. this gave me the most greif on my truck.

Hey game bro ,

So your having fun ...

Then you will really have a blast when you rebuild the differential once or twice ... That's another story in it's self !!!

Are you talking about having trouble with placement of the gears in side the servo ??? Or which way does the arm on the servo go???

The servo gears inside go a certain way ,but I don't really remember right off, I would have to check...

The servo arm on the servo goes up but must be done correctly...

FIRST THE SERVO SHOULD STILL BE OUT OF THE TRUCK ...

Plug the servo into channel 1 on the reciever (Middle one)...

Then get a fully charged battery pack as if you are going to run the truck ...

Disconnect the two motor wires (BLUE and WHITE ) at the bullet connectors...(So truck does'nt get away)...

Check the D/R and ST. TRIM nobs on top of your radio to make sure they are centered half way...

Plug up battery to esc and turn on the radio and truck...

Servo should center up and should show you the center point ...

Double check it by using your your ST. TRIM and DR nobs on your radio...

When you are sure it is centered then put the servo arm (servo horn) straight up (Do this with the truck still on) ...Then double check again before installing the servo into truck...

Hey little rc guy , I did'nt know you posted again ,You posted why WE were typing ...How about that !!! :wave:

I find it less frustrating to do the centering and placement of the arm and double checking it before you install the servo...

The servo will not center if your D/R or ST.TRIM on the radio are not set half way ... Always be sure to check that when installing a servo... :)

OK! I did it!!! :hat: :thumbsup: :hat:


Changing the servo gears turned out to be a bigger job then I thought. It took about 1-2 hours to figure it out today, but I got it just perfect! Now that I know how to do this, I know I could do it much faster next time around, although changing servo gears is still a painful task. I am glad I listed to you folks, when you told me to fix it myself.

My Evader ST is back up and running and I am loving it!!! Thank you soo much everyone :cool:


Now let the racing begin! :wave:

Well, if you put all them little gears in the correct place with out looking at another servo and gear placement you deserve a big pat on the back !!!

Every piece on your evader is replaceable and upgradeable >>> I BEAT THEM THERE RADIO SHACK CARS CAN'T DO THAT !!!

GOOD LUCK!!! :thumbsup: