is there a big difference in speed controls.... as far as power delivery or run-time?? if you have the same motor, same battery, but different speedo.... is there a difference??

Man thats a big can of worms you just opened up :tongue: ....Get ready because they are gonna be wiggling,crawling and squirming all over the place :p :drunk:

the reason i ask is that i honestly have not raced competively since 93.... i know things have changed, but i still have pleanty of nice equipment..... such as speed controls. nothing current, but working and were the best back in their day. should i scrap them from my oval arsenal to be competitve? or will this be just another reason for me to say.... it cost's too much to race competitvely. i love oval r/c but it seems to me that the reason for all of the spec classes (which were not run back in the day), is to control the always rising cost of the latest and greatest equipment. but some would say "you got to pay to play". i agree in a sense but, when do you say when?? some people do not seem to have a budget, but most do.

There are so many good veteran drivers around the country, if there was one speedo available that offered a clear advantage, people would know about it. I think with the current technology and on-resistance all of the pro-level speedo's can get the job done. The right unit for the right usage, durability, and ease of service are important, from what I see around here the LRP Quantum series seems to be most popular. I like them because they are easy to set up, reliable so far, and lightweight. At .0009 resistance or less none should really be any faster than another,(at full throttle on an oval). For off or on road i'm sure drive frequency and features could improve laptimes some. I,ve run most of them and have not gone faster or slower with any of them. My all-time favorite was the GM v-12 speedos but no service availabe for the most part.

this will def be debated. With race results I have proven there is no advantage and with other race freinds I have, they said the same. From what I was told by a freind that talked to someone at lrp, resitance wouldnt even bother looking at. Testing variuos esc's never noticed any change in lap times from your 60 dollar esc to $200 esc. I was thinking the same thing most people are, the lower the number for resistance the faster you think you would go but again never noticed a difference. Infact a few weeks ago broke a track record with your basic Q1 esc and a freind the same with a lrp SR. Some of you will say the older ones are bigger than the new ones, true but with the cars these days being made lighter than before who cares how big the esc is. The only thing I promise you will notice is more money in your pocket if you go with a cheaper decent esc unless you think you absolutly need that high end stuff. would like to hear other RESULTS from others

I top qualified, and finished instock class at the 05 Norrca nats using a first generation tekin G-10.. This wa the first release of the speedo, before they went under, and were gone for many years.. the esc worked just as good as any other ive ever used. I wanna say it was prolly close to 8 years old if not more.. im not sure when it actually came out... The G-9 is also still a great esc.. I know they say tekin was ahead of there time, but i know a few guys who up until last year still ran a novak cyclone in mod class..

can't say as i would recommend the new GTX from novak. i just received one. pulled it out of the box and there hung a huge capacitor on the side of it. called a few friends and novak...they all said you have to run it!! can't figure out what the point in having the "latest-greatest-small ESC" is, when you have to run a capacitor that's the same size as the freakin ESC. i may as well bought a cheapo that's twice the size...

I ran the cyclone TC in stock all last winter, and I was just as fast as anyone else, well until we hit the turn. that was set -up, not lack of power
I've never had a problem or felt I was at a disadvantage because I had a 50 $ discontinued ESC.

good thread :thumbsup:

My personal experience is that if you are racing, buy a good quality forward only speed control. There are some speed controls, like the Novak XRS that just don't deliver the same power on the track as a Cyclone or GT-7 for example. However, I put an XRS in a micro and it has all the power I need!.

I would say that if your old speed control has no motor limit you should be good while you get back into the hobby. You can also pick up some good deals from racers who are selling their electronics and are switching to brushless.

well.... well worms it is.......... i am glad to see that my solution is just as i thought .. i can use my old junk! would not mind picking up a few new speed controls so i will have enought for some back-up cars, but i know i can survive a race with what i have. i ALMOST thought of taking my drag racing approach..... a servo and a micro switch.... then just hope for the best! can't be much resistance there!

I've heard that one of the differences between speed controller brands is the amount of power they provide to the receiver and that the more power you can provide to a Spectrum system the fewer glitching and unbinding problems you will encounter. The person that told me that said that the Novak GTX provides more power to to the receiver than the Quantum Competition 2 so they're better for a Spectrum. Does anybody know if that's true?

Don't know if that is true or not but I have a GTX that I bought about 2 years ago when it first came out and I haven't had not even one issue with performance and never had a problem since switching to a Spektrum system and I don't run a receiver pack like most. I like Novak but they didn't do thereselves any favors with GT7. I know many people that had those things melt down as well as I did.

LRP, Tekin, or Novak have good products these days and all are reasonably affordable.

Don't know if that is true or not but I have a GTX that I bought about 2 years ago when it first came out and I haven't had not even one issue with performance and never had a problem since switching to a Spektrum system and I don't run a receiver pack like most. I like Novak but they didn't do thereselves any favors with GT7. I know many people that had those things melt down as well as I did.

LRP, Tekin, or Novak have good products these days and all are reasonably affordable.
are you running the capacitor??

Yes I AM

I don't think the type of speed control is as much of an issue as overall age is. I ran a GM V12 for a year and a half, noticed the car gettings slower, and no matter what chassis or motor adjustments would do anything. I put in a new V12, and instantly pick up a lap. Lately I have been running the Quantum series and am very happy. I think if I could could offer a suggestion it would be to buy a cheaper speed control, and just plan on replacing it more often. That's just my personal opinion though, lol.

are you running the capacitor??

You don't have to run it......

I've been running a GTX, no capacitor, no reciever pack in Mod for a year, never had a problem yet...

If you find the need that you do want to run the cap, but don't have the room behind the battery pack like most, un older it from the speedo, and solder it directly to the pack while your soldering the battery wires to the speedo.......

Nothing wrong with running a cap... I can allways find some room for it with my GTX... just a little peace of mind with one.... heck now Tekin... remember how they always said they didnt need a cap... now they recomend one for running mod motors

Check this link out. www.team-mrt.com . Ive found these are AWESOME Speed controllers. And there is a US Distributor coming soon!!! Going to be priced right as well.

EA

Oh, lovely then......Brilliant!

One S. Nelson told me one time that the old tamiya manuals are as good as any. Good luck with that!

Nothing wrong with running a cap... I can allways find some room for it with my GTX... just a little peace of mind with one.... heck now Tekin... remember how they always said they didnt need a cap... now they recomend one for running mod motors


The reason for running a cap is that it turns on the gates in the FETs (field-effect-transistors) faster and creates less heat for your speedo!!!

Run them if your racing. :thumbsup:

well.... well worms it is.......... i am glad to see that my solution is just as i thought .. i can use my old junk! would not mind picking up a few new speed controls so i will have enought for some back-up cars, but i know i can survive a race with what i have. i ALMOST thought of taking my drag racing approach..... a servo and a micro switch.... then just hope for the best! can't be much resistance there!

4 words....

RUN WHAT YOU BRUNG!!!

I'd start with what you have. Then decide if you want or need to upgrade based on the competition.