I am just getting back into the RC scene and I am having some problems with my motors getting too hot. I just ran a 10x5 motor in my xxx4 with an GT7 esc and melted the endbell on the motor. I am running an 92T spur with an 18T pinion and I was driving it on the street in front of our house.

What am I doing wrong?

Dave

whell hear are some of my suggestions. Hopefully I dont get yelled at for suggesting things to you cuz I also have a problem with my overheating xxx-s wich is basicly the same car. First off on the xxx-4 the body has air ducts, did you cut those out? its a must on 4wd cars that you cut out the molded air ducts> second Try instaling a motor heat sink, because the xxx-4/s motor heat sink sucks big time so you need to add some extra cooling. also I am going to start pre cooling my motor. I have seen alot of people getting cpu heatsink/ fan combos. and get there motors down into the low teens and below. (thats cold). so I am going to do that and if it works ill suggest it to you. It looks like your using the tl suggested pinnion and spur combo. but I have always found that the team losi suggested gearing to be on the high side. so try droping a few teeth.
Now I have a question for you. where the heck did you get the 10x5 at i have never seen a motor with 5 sets of wraps.


HOPE THIS HELPS
Sean Scott

I did cut the ducts in the body but I will try adding a heatsink. The motor came with a group of parts that came from ebay. It is in a Reedy Fury can but I don't know much more about it.

I took the motor apart and the brushes are finished. The brushes are the Trinity LeMans long wear brushes that are supposed to last 20-40 packs but I only had 3 on them.

Dave

seems like you ran the brushes too low! one questin, how fast is that!! you car must be flyin, but mods run hot but not that hot, so listen to darkscope, hes got some good points!

2 questions..

#1) How much timing???

#2) How LONG were you running it??

Thanks tamiya_kid.

Also kinwood Is thinking of things that I dont even start to think about like run time and timing. the brushes are suposed to run 20-40 runs when you are running under normal conditions like 5 min races. Also he is totaly corect on the timing. to much timing and you can smoke up brushes (or the motor) in one run. when I run my mod I try to keep it below 20 deg of timing.


Hope this helps
Sean Scott

About the timing: I think I am running the motor at 0 degrees - that is when the endbell screws align with the marks in the can, right? If I was to increase timing to say 20 degrees, would I rotate the endbell in the direction of the motor rotation or in the opposite direction?

I was running it for about 5 minutes or so - not long enough to kill the battery.

Dave

8 over wind is about right for a 10 turn, how hot was the gt7? if you only ran 5 minutes more than likely you had the pinon meshed to tight, is the drive train free, or the motor may of had a problem.
travis

btw darkscope a 10x5 wasn't that uncommon all that long ago, anymore you almost only see single and double winds but going to a tripple, quad, or quint can really smooth out the power of a motor and make it more driveable

Timing is kind of dificult. If you see the numbers on the motor there is zero and two sets of numbers. the numbers to the right of zero are positive timing the numbers to the left of zero are negative timing. positive timing is always used. never use negative timing unless you are running the motor in reverse. like on clod and some 2 motor and monster truck running. but for the xxx-4 you will be using the numbers to the right of zero. and like I said I try to stay below 20 deg timing. anymore and the motor may fry its self.

HOPE THIS HELPS
Sean Scott

FBR - I think there might have been something wrong with the motor, the comm is burnt up now so I am going to chuck it.

Darkscope - Thanks for the info, this brings me to another question that I have: On my xx buggy and on my xxx4, I have always had to wire the motor the opposite of what the endbell says. I mean I attach the speed control +ve to the motor -ve side. Is this normal? Does this mean I should use positive timing?

Dave

No that is not normal that you should have to attach the esc's positive wire to the negative motor termanal. and I do not believe that running negative timing makes the motor run in reverse. the only reason I say that you use negative timing on a reverse motor is because it Is like running positive timing (so the motor thinks) what esc are you using if you are using one with replacable wires then they may have been solderd up wrong. or maby there is something weird going on inside the esc. Now are you positive that the arm inside that mod was a mod arm because I do know that when you run a stock arm in a mod can and vice versa the motor will run in reverse due to the way the the arm segments are wraped. I would starb by first making absolutely shure that your esc is wired corectly. and then if that fails to work post back and tell me or someone else what is wrong and maby we can help

HOPE THIS HELPS
Sean Scott

... this brings me to another question that I have: On my xx buggy and on my xxx4, I have always had to wire the motor the opposite of what the endbell says. I mean I attach the speed control +ve to the motor -ve side. Is this normal? Does this mean I should use positive timing?
Dave
So long as you are using a Mod motor with adjustable timing, all that means is you have to rotate the can 180 degrees. You or someone else may have assembled it with the can rotated 180 degrees from where it was supposed to be last time it was assembled.

Or it could have been designed as a reverse rotation motor. Still, just rotate the can 180 degrees.

Darkscope, I have had this on different speed controls. I will try ta_man's suggestion and get back to you guys.