Hello All,

New member here, I have a spark issue with an old White riding lawn mower. It has an old Briggs and Stratton 5hp motor that just doesn't spark. When I got it, it sparked a bit, and then died in about 5 seconds. I cleaned out the gas tank, rebuilt the carb, and replaced the coil and condenser. Still no spark, so I bought a new coil. This new coil is kinda weird, it doesn't utilize the condenser and points; it just has a kill switch wire. So anyhow, I put this new coil in and it doesn't have any spark at all. However, I had the engine on a milk crate; does it need to touch the ground to have a ground? Is this the problem. The coil is brand new, but it doesn't seem to be working (and how does it work without a condenser and points?) WEIRD!!! And I also cleaned off the flywheel. Does anybody have any suggestions?

Cheers,

Mick

Make sure "this side out" is out. AS for the coil, you did tell them it was for a engine that used points? When you did the points, did you gap em at .20?

Hi Bugman,

Thanks for the response. Yes, I told them that it was for a motor that used points. They simply said that I should remove the points and condenser and put a plug in for the plunger. I adjusted the gap and got a spark. But now there is another problem. She doesn't want to start. For some reason, it is spitting out the carburetor. Is the valve stuck or something? How do I correct this problem? Do I have to rebuild the whole engine?

Mick

If it's spitting out the carb, you might have a stuck/jammed inlet valve. Whip the head off and check both valves are moving correctly. It could simply be a chunk of carbon wedged under it, but most likely it just needs pulling out and cleaning up.

Hi Munkey,

Do I just open the head up and then pull out the valve? Then how do I put it back in? What kinda contraption holds the valve in?

Mick

To get the valve out, you'll need to open the valve chest. I'm not entirely certain on this engine, but this is normally a pressed steel plate below the intake and exhaust valve. Its probably held in a by two screws - remove them and you'll see the valve stems with two rather strong springs around them, held into place with two cups.

With a big screwdriver, carefully lever down the spring on the exhaust valve stem and remove the split collet at the top. This should allow the valve cup to move up, disconnecting the cup and spring from the valve stem. You can then withdraw the valve, it's probably a good idea to regrind them at this stage. Decoke the ports too - just scratch away at it with something sharp, being careful not to damage the valve seats.

To reinstall the valve, cover the collet bits in lots of sticky grease. Then, when you pull the spring down and pull the cup over it, you can stick the collet in place and it won't fall off when you release the spring.

zip ties work really good i use 2 one on each side of the valve then use a pair of side cutters to cut the ties a pair of channell locks to compress or a small vice will work ; also depends on what kind of keeper the valve has some had 2 some just have a slotted one / a flywheel key will make it pop like that also you need to check the compression with a guage or take out the plug and put your finger over the plug hole and see if it pops your thumb out . could be in the fire (points ) water in fuel . you need to eleminate one thing at a time i would start with compression . fire then fuel post the code ##'s off the engine ?