This is part of the ongoing war of good versus evil. I'm referring, of course, to my efforts to stamp out the "model-on-a-stick" display stand :).

Hey, I sound worse than David Merriman when I get going on that subject so I'll forget the debate and just show you my new creation.

I wasn't originally going to post this in the Military/Aircraft forum because I specifically incorported elements that I though would lend this design well to sci-fi ships. But since I stuck my poor old F-86 on the stand ( that model sure gets around), this sort of defaults to this forum

http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/9146/newstanda8dj.jpg (http://imageshack.us/)
I wanted to use some classic wood combined with something new. I came up with this composite idea of using wood inset into an MDF base. The MDF can take a variety of finishes so I tried a nice metallic steel grey. This design allows for a common design with attractive wood elements yet it can be customized by using different finishes on the MDF base (Red paint for Russian plans? Black for something very subdued? Silver for 50's planes or spaceships?).

That's a very interesting stand, Brent. How big is it? I can't tell just from your F-86. I very much like that colour scheme as I think it would lend itself well to SF ships as you suggest.

New photo. I'm recycling old models because I can't build a new model everytime I want to try a new stand :). The stand is a bit large for the Corsair but you get the drift.

Stand size: 8 1/4" long, 5" wide, 6" high.

This stand is basically a proof-of-concept piece and not really sized for anything in particular. Just checking out the general idea. I'm pleased with it.

http://img461.imageshack.us/img461/8343/newstandb7ay.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

That sure is purdy!

In defense of "model on a stick" technology, I usually try to at least have a nicely-finished wood base under the stick.:cool:

I always give the "stick crowd" a hard time because I invariably see the model impaled on a vertical stick. It's a method that is virtually never used by commercial model suppliers or corporate model shops. The support arms always have an angle to impart motion. I've bookmarked a few companies that supply commercial desk and promo model and I have yet to see a vertical mounting (I'm sure SOMEBODY makes one because you don't want to use the word "never" on the internet).

But here's a few pictures I just scanned from my personal photo album. You see three original builders models from the 1950's and a group of real airplanes from the local Air Force Heritage Park:

http://img72.imageshack.us/img72/9225/standex8xm.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

It's telling that the pros just don't use vertical stick mounts but most amateurs do. Now, there's nothing wrong with being an amateur (I'm an amateur) but the vertical stick has become the calling card of amateur. This is unfortunate because the level of model building I see on these boards is astounding. The quality of the models here certainly exceeds my ability. But the mountings invariably pull it down a notch. It's like announcing, "I have just built this incredible model which demonstrates some of the highest skills on the planet and, just so that you don't think I'm a pro, I'll mount it on this vertical tube" :).

I agree. The only thing worse than the stick, to me, is the stick-and-massive-lighting-cable combo. With DB-25 connector stuck into the model.

These are interesting examples of aircraft bases:
http://www.seacraftclassics.com/store/airplane.html
http://www.pacmin.com/military/pacific/base.html

... but I can also see mounting the sci-fi Enterprise as a ship, given that the big E is generally level and slow-moving. And a "ship". :)
http://www.seacraftclassics.com/store/military_models.html

For the 50's/60's scifi stuff, go for pastels and loud colors to see if that does anything for them.

Those are some good sites I hadn't seen before (now bookmarked).

Here's another with a whole slew of models and not a stick in sight :).

http://www.airplanecustommodels.com/custom/index.shtml

I think some modelers get so focussed on the model at hand that they don't quite grasp that the "viewing public" sees the ENTIRE display as an integrated presentation.

One of the most common things that I hear is that folks don't want a "fancy" stand that will draw attention away from the model. It's an idea that sounds good on paper but doesn't really jibe with the practical reality of the way people see things. If somebody puts a fancy new paint job on their car, they can't "emphasize" the paint job by putting plain, dull wheels on the vehicle. You can't play up one part of a display by downplaing another part.

Everything that goes into a display is part of chain. And purposely including a part that shows less attention to detail than the other parts of the display is creating a weak link. A well built model on a well built stand constitutes a well-received display. If the quality of the stand matches the model, the stand WON'T draw undue attention. But if a stand is clearly not up to the quality of the model, THAT is what will get noticed.

Of course, modelers are entitled to any display that pleases them and the concept of a "viewing public" may have no relevance to them whatsoever. Anybody who builds for himself and keeps the models in his room or personal office doesn't need to hear me shooting my mouth off. But, let's be honest, most of like to try and impress people...we all have a bit of "show-off" in us. It doesn't hurt to hear some advice that might help make a better display.

EDITING IN ONE MORE THING:

I agree with you about the "ship stand" idea. In fact, I've considered a navy style keel-block stand for my big Spindrift.

For the 50's/60's scifi stuff, go for pastels and loud colors to see if that does anything for them.

One thing that I really like about this particular stand design is that it does allow for a great deal of versatility and experimentation with color.

I posted this same design on the Hyperscale Forum where there are a lot of model airplane builders. One guy asked me why I went with MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard) for the base instead of wood. Of course, I do make wood bases. I never even tried MDF until last year. But good wood should be finished in such a way as to preserve the character of wood. I always use clear or semi-transparent finished on wood stands. That's very nice for the vast majority of applications.

But wood is limiting. You can always get a classic look but there is little room for experimentation. There are only a few ways to finish oak or mahogany.

The MDF allows for al kinds of finishes. In fact, the completed stand can be very easily refinished. That wooden insert can be masked off in a matter of two minutes. A coat of lacquer can go on top of the original steel grey paint and you can completely change the character of the stand. I could make that stand RED in 15 minutes...start to finish including masking and painting.

An oak or mahogany stand will always look the same (which is NOT a bad thing at all providing you are happy with the look and don't intend to modify it).

Have you thought of putting a motor into the wood insert? Or projector lamps into the MDF?

Well, I don't always feel like messing with a stand, but I've gone with the woodon ship display stand once or twice:
http://www.inpayne.com/models/lion/LION001.jpg

But I'm usually quite happy with a finished wood base and a clear stick:
http://www.inpayne.com/models/starcrafts_1701a.html
http://www.inpayne.com/models/space_coupe.html
http://www.inpayne.com/models/planetexpress.html

However, I still hold that the old Aurora stand is still the sexiest model stand ever made:
http://www.inpayne.com/models/flyingsub.html
http://www.inpayne.com/models/hammerhead2.html

... I still hold that the old Aurora stand is still the sexiest model stand ever made ...

I concur. :thumbsup:

I've built another stand in the same design. This could actually be a production prototype because it's more suited to popular 1/48 scale planes (which, in my observation, seem to be the biggest segment of the scale model airplane market).

The original did seem a bit hefty with that Corsair model so I downsized it (comparison photo on top) to fit the average 1/48scale WWII fighter. My Buchone isn't an ideal test subject with no pilot and the gear hanging down but it's a fairly small plane which demonstrates the size of the new version of the stand.

http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/9039/dstand1m10li.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

Brent - love the stand, smooth and lovely design (Corsair is beaut too, especially the prop in motion).

I'd never thought of MDF, but I'm going to do some experimenting myself and use your idea!

Question - to make the circular inset for the wood, did you use a hole saw and go all the way thru, then put a duplicate base underneath and cover the edge seam? Or mae a wider lip underneath and cover that?

Funny thing...even though both stands would appear to have identical construction, they are built quite differently.

The larger stand (the first) has a two part MDF base plus the wood insert. In that case, I cut one base shape from 5/8" thick MDF and a second indentical shape from 1/4" thick MDF. In the thinner 1/4" piece, I used a circle cutter (in a drill press) to cut a 3 1/4" hole right through the sheet of MDF. I then glued the thin sheet (with the hole) on top of the thick sheet. That gave me the base with a hole in it that was 3 1/4" in diameter and 1/4" deep. I then used a band saw to cut a 3 1/4" diameter wooden disc from a 1/4" thick sheet of wood to fil the hole. The edge of the MDF was finished in a router table.

The smaller base is actually simpler. It has only ONE piece of MDF plus the wood. I cut a base shape from 5/8" thick MDF. Because the wooden insert is smaller (only 2" around), I was able to cut a hole in the base using a Forstner drill bit (must be used in a drill press). A Forstner cuts a very clean hole with a flat bottom. So I cut a clearance hole 1/4" deep with a 2" diameter Forstner bit. Then, as with the other base, I cut a small wooden disc from 1/4" thick sheet to fit the base.

In both cases, the hole in the MDF is only 1/4" deep and the insert is 1/4" thick. You have you choice of how to make that hole. Two part for larger sizes with the hole cut clean through one piece or, if you are making a smaller one, a single piece clearanced with a Forstner bit if you have the equipment.

I'm really loving MDF for stand applications. One advantage which I don't think I mentioned here is that MDF is nicely "workable". Because it lacks directional grain, the edges are very easy to shape. Harwoods like oak (which I have used many times) are very difficult to edge with a router as you transition acros the grain. It's very easy to take a chunk of wood out of the stand and ruin the project.

Thanks for the detailed reply Brent, I've got some great options! 'Preciate it!

Defintely look great under those birds! :thumbsup: :thumbsup: rr