is there a time to use the brace on the front end, or is it best to set up without it all the time,

some guys like them, i always thought they made the car inconsistent.. They dont brace a whole lot.. when the right side compresses, and the caster block moves it forces the oposite block to move the other way.. but like i say some like it..

Whats up Brad?We all miss ya at Y-city!!Where you racing @ this summer.......


Andy

what's up Andy, man i sure missed you guys too, as soon as Jack is better i'll be at his track, since Todd had a track here in Fairmont, there's a whole gang of us that are really anxious to race this summer, i did'nt like the caps too much last year, Jacks gonna go back to foams this summer, so there will be several of us coming up this year, what's your plans ??? give me a call 304-291-8067, i need to call John Hoy, you have his # ??


Brad





Brad

I feel that the car has more steering w/o the brace, yet another tuning device.
Tom

While yes, I use one, you have to loosen one end of it up while you are changing the spacer shims under the front end. Otherwise it will hold the suspension cocked at a slight angle because it rigidly holds the two blocks parallel to each other.
I found that on my HD slider the front end flexed a lot without it. That can't be good because if the two towers are flexing towards each other, instead of the springs compressing, you can't really control or adjust that. I would think it is better to tune the suspension through the use of springs rather than relying on chassis flex which is unpredictable.

What is a front brace?

What is a front brace?

it is the bar that goes between the caster blocks. comes with the pro 3, dont know about other cars.

On this picture, the brace is the small graphite part between the two caster block. It's a 12L4 front end, but the concept is the same for other cars

http://www.rc10.com/enlarge/rc12l4_front.htmhttp://www.rc10.com/shusting/CatalogHub/kitspecs_12l4/frontchassis.500.jpg

Martin Paradis

I prefer the way asc did there front end brace over the bolt on units. I believe the bolt on units tend to bind the front end and not allow it to return to a neutrel state (tweaked). The asc type lets the front end twist but still return to a tweak free state.

On this picture, the brace is the small graphite part between the two caster block. It's a 12L4 front end, but the concept is the same for other cars

http://www.rc10.com/enlarge/rc12l4_front.htmhttp://www.rc10.com/shusting/CatalogHub/kitspecs_12l4/frontchassis.500.jpg

Martin Paradis


Is there a brace like this (not the tube between the castor blocks) for 1/10th scale ae front ends? I am thinking the 1/10th scale front end is spaced farther apart than the 1/12th scale.

I dont know but where did you get those trick littlecovers for the corners of the chassis? Are those an asscociated item?

they come with 12l4's in the box

This is the first time I have ever seen that style of brace. I like it better than the bolt on one that I currently use. I doesn't look like it causes the problems that I mentioned above since it is able to pivit. Hmmm might just look into getting or making one.

the Brace that rhodopsine has on his Front end is an Associated Chassis Brace. i dont know the part number, but i think it was originoly made to mount up on both T-Plate Mounting screws, so that the screws wouldn't flex as much, but it looks like it fits Perfectly where he has it....atleast thats what i think it is lol

Its part of the 12L4 kit from Associated and is intended to be installed between the caster mounts as shown.

The part number is 4564. This is different from the t-plate braces. Hope this helps.

ok sorry guys, didn't know they were seperate parts lol...just looked like the other one...my bad

Overall I believe a brace is better and lets tune with the suspension .
A car without a brace may seem to drive smoother but thats because the car is flexing and has been adjusted for that.
The old L-3 front end was OK but didn't allow the adjustibility of a Hyperdrive style.

We use to take the old graphite brace used on the original NON Dynamic Strut type 10L front end and mount it between the caster blocks much as the 1/12th scale pictured.

We used a cutting wheel to slice into the caster blocks (Mount the 2 blocks together at the mounting screw holes) Using an air cut off saw (The blades were perfect thickness for the graphite brace) cut deep enough to allow the brace to sit flush with the top of the caster block.

after cutting, remount the caster blocks, sit the brace into place and using a drill bit small enough to fit into the hole where the rod goes, mark locations for a hole and drill the brace. Once you got the brace where it would mount, usually you needed to cut the brace to length so it didn't stick out of the sides of the caster blocks.

It's been close to 12-13 years since I've done this...I still have 4 or 5 front ends w/ that style bracing.