Who knows what brushes work good in the co27 motor? We want to go fast in stock...

Putnam green and blue, .010 off trailing edge, big hole works well. They seem to need to be broken in very well. Just skim the comm. every 3 runs or so. Should be able to get alot of runs out of these brushes!
I had my dyno set up at a big race this weekend and saw several CO27 motors on my dyno that weren't as good as the Putnam combination. I'm not sure what they were using for brushes. The CO27 is good but I think the 2 mag and monster are just as fast.

FinishLine "F" Brush all the way, Only way i could get them to run.... full face+ small hole -, Really will come around after the 2nd run.....

I second that, "F" brushes with 2 red springs.

OK thats 2 to 1, I personally have a fantom dyno, and havent seen any good numbers with F brushes. Id still be willing to try them. Lets see some more input guys. Ive got 2 days to check this out.

don't worry about what the dyno says, along as there decent, I used to look for 68+ on power now all my motors are around 61's and this is the fastest i have been ever. You have to remember it is just a flywheel dyno, dosn't tell you a thing under load, If you want to see bigger dyno number, drill a larger hole in each brush and run a green+ and red - spring and your numbers will come up, wont run that good on the track thou.

F-Brushes , trim trail edge to 170, 2 red springs..hang on....
Take some of the serrate down with an older com stick(hard ones).

Putnam Blue Green brush combo, vertical slot in the brush, same size as a fantom 309. Red + spring, Green Negative spring. Roll about .04-.05 higher than a monster.

How many amps do you look for the CO27 motor to pull with F brushes?

thanks

How many amps do you look for the CO27 motor to pull with F brushes?

I asked a bunch of stock racers at Classic this same question at the track that were running co27's with F's and they are seeing 9.0-10.5, same a Monster was the common answer I heard

thats about right 9-10 amps. I had one that was a little over 10amps.

I can remember 15 years ago everyone used to say, the lower the amps the faster the motor. Couldnt figure out why all my fast motors pulled 10amps+ I guess those people wanted me to slow down for them. Im still lookin for more input. One more day to gather more info. Thanks guys, I feel faster already. And i havent even touched a motor yet, been cleaning the car up :wave:

My fastest run came on a monster that pulled 5 amps.......

HMMMMM Monster huh....

i only played with a co27 once and was about 1-2 sec. off, not really bad for just throwing a gear on and running it, It pulled 8 amps on break in, and 5.5 after a run on it, I personally dont like high amp draw motors,

On my stock motors I look for between 8 and 9 amps, anything higher the motor tends to overheat even with a good car, anything lower and the car doesn't seem to have any pull. In my opinion it's just one big ballancing game.

Guys !!! man we had a couple of guys run the co27 motor in stock class and expert stock last night. they tryed gearing and cutting the comm but still the had no power or torq. I really believe that the co27 is built 4 touring cars only because I run like 120/34 and one of the guys was running like a 120/38 and still had no power. I guest 4 some it works great but 4 me it has not showed me any thing yet. :rolleyes: :( :rolleyes:

On my stock motors I look for between 8 and 9 amps, anything higher the motor tends to overheat even with a good car, anything lower and the car doesn't seem to have any pull. In my opinion it's just one big ballancing game.

Could you tell us exactly what conditions you test that expect the 8-9 amps?

Like: what voltage, fan/no fan, or any other factors you can think of.

2 volts with a small fan. I also use a fantom dyno, and the tell tale number for me has been the 20 amp number. normally, I look for my max power to hit somewhere between 30 and 32 amps, and the higher the power number at 20 amps the better the motor seems to run on the track. If I have a 65 watt motor at 30 amps and say 50 watts at 20 amps, and I had a second motor that was 61 watts and 30 amps, and say 54 watts at 20 amps, I would run the motor that was 54 watts at 20. But that is just a simple observation. I run on a large flat track, about 185 run line. Banked track is an entirely different story, and I am not the best qualified to answer it. Maybe we can get E-Rock to hop on here, lol.

hey Jeff
sorry i dont even own a co27

I do know this weekend at classic i went my fastest ever 54 4:00 with an Epic Roar stock. Adrian Chandler edged me out (faster 54 4:00) with a Monster or a Handout version of the Monster not sure.

But guys are having good luck on the banks with the co27 as well, just not the ballistic fast 54 runs yet. Could just be missing the right gear.
The extra torque seems to possibly help a car that is not 100% on. But when the car is right, and rollout is on I will still take the RPM of the ROAR stock anyday over the Monster. The Roar's do not dyno as well as the Monster and Co27, but they scoot on the track.

Erock are you nuts?? the epic stock blows away the moster on the dyno....

Puf,
On the fantom dyno as far as watts go it will be better cause of the higher rpm. As I understand it, the fantom uses rpm to help calc the wattage factor.
For instance a 19T motor at 36 degrees is usually around 100 watts.
A 19T at 0 degrees is usually around 50-60 watts. We all know a 19T at 0 deg will outrun a 70 watt Monster motor. That is when I lost faith in the fantom numbers.


I have been using the Robi dyno for years and it tells a different story.
I do not use a CE dyno but I bet the Monster puts out more Watts in the given amp range than an epic roar stock does.

On the robi I use the 18-26 amp average calculation that the dyno does for you and a Good Monster pushes 100 watts. Most average 95-96 watts.
A good Epic stock is usually in the low 90's. Every blue moon one will top 95+.
The Co27 makes power number at that range similar to the Monster from what I have seen. Actually a P2K has the highest wattage numbers out of any stocker I tested but the heat disappation on those stink for oval, otherwise that would be my motor of choice.

Big Jim Greenmeyer (RIP), cant actually believe I am gonna quote him, lol cause we have had our verbal spats but he also said that on the CE dyno the P2k is the biggest stocker watt/power wise. I agree. Just doesnt translate to oval because of the heat factor when you gear them up. I think that is why the Epic roar stock is good because you can roll it lower and keep the heat down but it has the RPM to pull it. That is my only logical explanation as to why it runs good on the track.

Thats nice to know EROCK ive still got a bunch of p2k motors. Which brushes do you run in them?

tommy I am getting 63+ watts at 25 with my co27

Thats nice to know EROCK ive still got a bunch of p2k motors. Which brushes do you run in them?

I actually dont run them, they produce the most wattage out of the stockers I have tested but in oval racing they get too hot to be competitive with.

For 2 minutes they are a hero, after that they fall on their face.
The GM3 was another good stocker, same thing, about 3 minutes in they fall off compared to a Monster.

Funny thing my CO27's have more watts but less RPM on my dyno.

Funny thing my CO27's have more watts but less RPM on my dyno.

that is correct

Co27's will have less rpm, the stack is heavier and has more material on it.
It was designed that way to keep the motor spooled up when Touring cars let off in the turns.

i've been getting about 11.5 amps out of the co27 with .10" removed from the side of the trailing edge and knock about .10" of the leading edge just the tip. I picked up about 2 seconds with this setup.

Sure you did Jesse but it wasn't in a oval car.

i took a .10 of the F brushes with 2 green springs. i ran a personal best at tri-clone indoor with this set up.

Same here - but with a .078" hole. 2 greens is key for amp draw.

and i was about to give up on that motor thinking it was more for touring cars, i'll get the drill out and try that next weekend... :thumbsup:

My best on the TD45 so far has been with ETRacing (RC4Less) brushes, "full" with trainling edge "shaved" so face is 0.170"... The key for these brushes is that they WANT to be FULLY seated (NO serrations left)...

Haven't been to the track with it yet -- "out of commision" due to a herniated disk in my neck...

When I do get it on the track, I'll let you know..