Hi


Been playing with JLTOs a bit lately. Used heat shrink tubing to restrict shoe travel. Matched the magents. Got some drill stock slightly oversized to clean up the slop in the rear axel bores. Rear hubs seem ok, using trued silicone slip ons, and I found a source (rabbitt racing) for some inexpensive replacement rear hubs. I have run into many front axles/hubs that are bent or out of round, inducing alot of hop. Anyone have a suggestion for an inexpensive solution? I have drill blank for axles, but where can I get inexpensive but concentric/true running front hubs?

Also, I have several JLTO chassis w/o magnets (magnets went into Tjets). When I swapped the stock tjet magnets in, I found the arms get really warm/hot very fast. Anyone have any idea? This happended in 2 chassis, one with shimmed magnets and the other with loose fitting magnets.

Thanks
Mike

The stock T-jet magnets are too weak for the JL armatures. If you can get some blue/yellow Super II magnets or JL magnets that will take care of the over heating problem.
Check your front tires on the JL Tuff Ones. They have a little nipple on them and sometimes that makes the car bounce. You can take a Tjet hub with an axle and place it in a Dremel and sand the nipple off. Use a multi speed Dremel or battery one. 2,000 rpm is what I set my battery operated one at.
Everything else sounds fine to me.
Maybe someone else knows where to get the axles and hubs. Randy.

The stock T-jet magnets are too weak for the JL armatures
The stock T-Jet magnets are too weak for any armature, especially if the magnets are old and partially demagnetized. The JL arms are around 15 ohms and are actually more capable of dealing with weaker magnets than the Autora TuffOnes and WildOnes arms (and AFX arms like the mean green) that are around 6-8 ohms. If you run low resistance arms and you have a power supply that can source more than 1 amp (the Tomy and Tyco wallwarts can't) you must use strong motor magnets in your car.

About those front tires. You could super glue the tires to wheels. Then put the wheels on a drill blank and true them with a dremmel or drill. Then your tires would be true even if the wheels aren't. Another thing I do with mine is take that little brass bushing off the bottom of the arm or at least make sure it's against the comm. I've seen many that are off the comm. a little bit. Just make sure you don't hammer that bushing down too far causing it to distort the comm.