Can someone tell me how to know when I have o degrees of timing?
I have 4 Kisbey 19t motors and 2 19t KC motors. The Kisbey motors
have a sticker that shows the timing marks but the notch on the can is on the opposite side. Same on all 4 motors. The KC motors don't have a timing sticker, but looks like the starting point is form the notch in the can.
Witch way does the end-bell go? and what mark gets me to 0 ??????
I am lost here.

Do 19t motors advance opposite of mod motors?????????
Thank You Richardt

one easy way is to check amp draw
0 deg at 1.5v no fan should hit 2-4 amp range
at 36 deg it should be 9+

is there another way to tell....like if you are hold the motor with the endbell up (looking down on the end bell), which way do you turn the endbell to get to 36 degrees and vice versa for 0 degrees?

is there another way to tell....like if you are hold the motor with the endbell up (looking down on the end bell), which way do you turn the endbell to get to 36 degrees and vice versa for 0 degrees?
Yeah, that's what I'm looking for. Also is the notch in the can 0 degree
and how do I know witch way to install the end-bell so i'm not 180 degrees out. Thanks

The notch in the can IS zero, the screws in the endbellneed to line up with the notches.

Now get a compass, positive will pull north with the mabuchi wrap 19 turn motors. Most mod motors are the opposite.

If you have the motor together, put the positive side to the compass, if it pulls north, your good to go :thumbsup: .

Later, Bret

Thank you. Thank you. Thank you

The notch in the can IS zero, the screws in the endbellneed to line up with the notches.

Now get a compass, positive will pull north with the mabuchi wrap 19 turn motors. Most mod motors are the opposite.

If you have the motor together, put the positive side to the compass, if it pulls north, your good to go :thumbsup: .

Later, Bret

Also, for modified motors the letter "J" in the word Japan maked on the can is always positive.

Stock motors is the oppisite.

Peace..

If you are looking "down" on the endbell, you would rotate the endbell counterclockwise to get positive timing, e.g. 24 or 36 degrees. On some motors, the sticker marks are not always true timing marks, so you have to be careful. On most 19T motors, there are three vertical "notch lines" in the rim of the endbell to the "left" of one of the screws, each 12 degrees apart. So, for 24 degees of timing you would turn the endbell counterclockwise, so that the second "notch" lines up with the 0 degree timing mark on the can. For 36 degrees of timing, line up the third "notch".

Once you know you have the endbell set for the correct polarity, a lot of racers scratch a "+" sign onto the can, below the positive brush hood, so that you can always have a reference point to make sure the endbell goes back on in the correct position.

Some company, maybe Racetech, makes an inexpensive plastic housing that has true timing marks on it up to 45 degrees that you can slip a motor into and gauge or set the timing, but once you get familiar with your motor set-up it's not really necessary.

If you are looking "down" on the endbell, you would rotate the endbell counterclockwise to get positive timing, e.g. 24 or 36 degrees. On some motors, the sticker marks are not always true timing marks, so you have to be careful. On most 19T motors, there are three vertical "notch lines" in the rim of the endbell to the "left" of one of the screws, each 12 degrees apart. So, for 24 degees of timing you would turn the endbell counterclockwise, so that the second "notch" lines up with the 0 degree timing mark on the can. For 36 degrees of timing, line up the third "notch".

Once you know you have the endbell set for the correct polarity, a lot of racers scratch a "+" sign onto the can, below the positive brush hood, so that you can always have a reference point to make sure the endbell goes back on in the correct position.

Some company, maybe Racetech, makes an inexpensive plastic housing that has true timing marks on it up to 45 degrees that you can slip a motor into and gauge or set the timing, but once you get familiar with your motor set-up it's not really necessary.

Thank you Chassis Doc,
That help more then any. I'll mark the cans.
Can I get more than 36 degrees of timing, or is that just wishfull thinking. LOL
Thanks everybody

You may be able to get 31 or 32 degrees, but then your running the risk of the endbell coming loose because your at the edge of the timing ring. I have gone to running all my 19 turn motors at 24 degrees. After spending significant time on the dyno, I've found most of what I'm making at higher timing is heat, and I've been able to run the same lap times at 24 that I did at 36. Just need to find another rollout.

When you take timing out, Which way do you go, more or less gear??

more gear

Bill,

Do you think 36 degrees may be more beneficial at a short flat track where you might need more acceleration out of the corner and 24 degrees better at a banked track like K/N or Maine where you can roll through the corners with a higher gear ? Did you change your spring combo when switching from 36 to 24 ?

CHASSIS DOC I seems to be the opposite, 36 degrees works better at banked tracks where corner speed is higher, and 24 degrees at smaller flats track where corner speed is down and you need low end power.