Hello,
I just found this board while doing some goggle searches for HO Track building. I have been toying with the idea of setting up a track for several years now, and finally think I am ready to do something. I have close to 150 cars (T-jets, Aurora, AFX Tyco etc.) and a lot of track mostly Aurora and AFX (no Tyco) that I have collected since I was a kid.
I had always thought I would just build with what I have, but no I am thinking I may want to build from scratch. I am thinking of a 4 x 8’ layout to start with as space is of some concern.
What are some pro’s and con’s of each? I am very mechanical and good with power tools so starting from scratch should not a problem, if that is where I end up. Thanks in advance for any help, Jim

If you do decide on starting from scratch, here's a good place to start:

http://www.ehobbies.com/ItemDetail.do?&hdnASINNO=B0000CGB64&hdnCategory=Marketplace&hdnTabSelection=Slot%20Cars

These sets usually go for $130, and you get a nice amount of track. What's better is the hardcore magnet-car racers will pay $20 and up for a car.......and with 4 cars in these sets, you can almost make your money back and get track for pennies on the dollar.

DLW, thanks for the response and that is a great price. However when I said from scratch I meant building my own track out of wood. Thanks Jim

I have been experimenting with making my own track by routing 1/2" MDF. There are several web sites that have some information about this.
http://uk.geocities.com/slot_racing/trackbuild/index.htm
http://home.bellsouth.net/p/s/community.dll?ep=16&groupid=241513&ck=

And the one I'm trying to follow:
http://www.hoslotcarracing.com/WoodenTrack.html

And one I like the best for its layout:
http://groups.msn.com/SLOTCARS/routeredhotrack.msnw?albumlist=2

I have opted to use rebar tie wire and rout 1/16" power slots. I tried the copper tape method, but although faster and easier to install, the normal pickup shoes on the H.O. cars did not function well. I would have had to modify all cars. And like you, I have many and did not want that work.

This is just a start, so if you have more direct questions, pass them along or contact me directly.

Rick

Hi Rick,
Thanks for those links I was familare with all but the MSN Slot car board.
Is there any better info on the jigs used to rout the guide slots and power groves if I decide to go with wire (which I think I would lean towards).
Thanks again this site is awsome, Jim

The only one that talks much about it is the one using the rebar tie wire. They show a diagram if dimensions between the slots and depth of slots.
As far as creating the jigs, there was a tutorial about routing track, but can't find a link for it that is still good. It was a whole step by step of routing basics.
I do have some sources of 1/16" router bits. The latest one I have is two flute and seems to cut well. I'm just having problems keeping a consistant depth for the power slots.

Rick

Jim, here's a pretty cool site......http://www.oldslotracer.com/

I go there to day dream once in a while, lol.

Yea car guy, I found that site last night and spent a hour or so there (oldslotracer) looking at all of the tracks. Most of those seem to be the copper tape, but as mentioned previously a lot of cars don't do well, what is the issue?

Hi

Instead of using wire, I would suggest you consider using magnatech braid. You can run magnet cars or Tjets on braid. The biggest advantage braid has over rails is your pick up shoes will last forever.

I have both a braided track and a rail track. I like the rail track because it's longer, but I like to braided track because it is so easy on pick up shoes. The only disadvantage of the braid is that because it is wider, you need to add a fuse to every controller, because it is possible for the cars to short the controller out when they slide out too far. I use one and two ohm fuses for each controller, and haven't had a problem since I added the fuses.

Here's a link to a braided track on a 4 x 8 piece of MDF.

http://horacepro.com/track.html

mking, Did you build the tracks? If so do you have any pictures during construction?
Thanks.

hi

i bought my track from dave mildebrand. i dont know if he is still building tracks. i believe that ed bianchi (the guy who built the track in the link i posted) sells a video on building your own track. he is the kind of guy who would just as soon tell you how to build a track than sell you one. he sells tracks to guys like me, withoit the skills or time to build a track.

shoot him an email, he is a straight up guy

mike

Thanks, mking

In discussing braided wire for power rails, I found that stranded heavy duty picture wire is also magnetic. It is round, but can be pressure fit in the 1/16" slot. I have been cautioned though that a single loose strand could cause damage to a car if picked up in the motor. Also, being an irregular surface might actually wear the pick up shoes. It's a lot easier to work with then rebar tie wire or fence wire because it is so flexible. Others thoughts?

Rick

With regards to what to use for rails, I started thinking. Does anyone remember the "Flexible" Track sections that AFX had out? They used a spring type steel material, but I am not familuare with there performance. I was just thinking that maybe I could use a stainless steel spring material?
Does anybody have any thought's (good or bad).

Well, for one, I think stainless steel springs would be expensive.
I have that flexible track piece you mentioned. They did help complete some new layouts, but performance was bad. If you flexed it too much, the cars would not hold the corners. These came out while magnatraction cars were marketed and either there was no magnetic attraction to the springs or since the road surface was not a flat surface (because of the flexing joints), the cars would fly off. They were quickly removed from my layout. Obviously, the road surface wouldn't be an issue here. Would the stainless be magnetic? I think some are.
And once again, what kind of wearing on the pickup shoes would there be?

Rick