getting back into this hobby after a little hyetus. always ran nicads, going to be running nimh.these will be run in 4 cell form.used to use 10 1157 bulbs with cut off.is still good do ineed a discharge tray? drain to nothing and short them leave them charged ? how many amps to charge at ? tring to get them to last a while. need to know all there is to know about them these are 3300's.

6 amp charge .01 drop back 7 amp peak, discharge after race then tray until cool and deadshort till next time you run them.

Doug P

look under the TQ thread in the oval support section lots of good info in there

I increased the number of bulbs for discharging from 12 to 16 now and charge rate is normally 6.50amps.

For IB 3800's, discharge to 3.60 volts, then place pack in a novak flatline tray until led is out, then charge @ 6.0 amps till peak. Run the pack, remove from car and put away, do not discharge the pack until next usage.

For IP3800's, Assemble the pack from new. Discharge to 0 volts in a novak flatline tray and solder a wire across the pack while still in tray once led has went out completely. Same chg amps, after your run dump pack to 3.60 volts and then put in tray and deadshort it with the wire until next usage.


Do not deadshort IB3800's

SC

roadking2000: I would follow the suggestions which come with the batteries you purchase. The directions given will usually not harm the batteries. It's a good starting point anyway.

S_C: IP3800's need to be deadshorted? What kind of degradation in runtime are you seeing after deadshorting? Which numbers get better(IR, voltage, etc) and by how much? Appreciate the info.

Chuck

roadkill, I run for PolePosition MFG of the IP cells, I wouldn't dead short them. the slight gain in AVG voltage isn't worth the loss in runtime no matter what class your running. the voltage curve doesn't change just the length of the curve. the IR don't drop any when deadshorting and may even raise while doing so. Check out the IP thread on here for current care.

From what i have seeen, dead shorting the IP's makes them go flat after a few runs.. I have seen guys whith old non shorted packs say they pull harder then there newer dead shorted one..

roadking2000: I would follow the suggestions which come with the batteries you purchase. The directions given will usually not harm the batteries. It's a good starting point anyway.

S_C: IP3800's need to be deadshorted? What kind of degradation in runtime are you seeing after deadshorting? Which numbers get better(IR, voltage, etc) and by how much? Appreciate the info.

Chuck


Drop in runtime is significant, I run 6 cell dirtoval....so it isnt a issue for me really. The packs make a ton of rip, even more punch the the ib3800's I have...when cycling packs on a t-35 gfx and comparing the #'s from my best 2 ib3800's and ip3800's they look like this. These were charged @ 6.5 amps to .03 and discharged @ 30 to 5.40

Chg sec/mahr rir/air/runtime/peak volts avg volts mahr

IP 3800 #6 2485/4486 80/12.0/397/9.04 7.34 3308

IP3800 #3 2478/4474 78/11.8/385/9.01 7.35 3208

IB3800 2428/4383 86/11.7/433/9.06 7.37 3608

IB3800 2416/4362 90/12.2/418/9.10 7.37 3483

Looking @ the above #'s you wouldnt think there would be much difference in "feel" of the packs comparing the ib's to the ip's when in car. It's sort of decieving really. The ip's have considerable more rip...you can feel it when driving as well as see it in the car.

They ( the ip's ) were considerably more expensive as well when compared to the ib's I bought from kellner cell's...( dont flame me for the seemingly shameless plug )...I bought the ip's as a experiment to see the end results for myself. Is it worth the extra money? Probably not, but I had to know for myself. Would I buy ip's again? .....time will tell, @ this point I think I would just to have a mix of both ib and ip.





SC

I Just bought some IP's and if the #'s are true on the packs they should have a ton more rip than my IB's and they rip pretty dang good,I can't wait to see them run on the track.

All of the ip packs I have bought exceed the #'s that were on the labels. I use the word "were" because I removed all the label's from the cells. They were all 1.20+ most were 400+ runtime.

I did lose alot of runtime from deadshorting...but I knew that was coming, I was more intrested in voltage and ir #'s when deadshorting.

btw...I am not sponsored by anyone. I'm just posting my finding's on how I treat my packs. I pretty much pay full price for everything.


SC

Time to get this thread back on track.

The Ips' seem to have a better power band or curve. the way they release the power to me at least is why they are so rippy feeling... Ive also noticed they hold there number longer..

My method

1: race the pack, (Charge @6.0 amps, .02, peak .02)
2: discharge @35 down to 3.6 (4 cell)
3: after cool i put them away intill next week

the following week:
1: Tray on a duratrax, or Initgy 0-30, Take them off immediately after the loghts go out. (right before i charge them)

2: Charge them and run....

me21 how do you prevent cells from becomming over discharged? IMO any tray that doesn't have a seperate cell voltage cut off built in isn't worth using.

My method

1: race the pack, (Charge @6.0 amps, .02, peak .02)
2: discharge @35 down to 3.6 (4 cell)
3: after cool i put them away intill next week

the following week:
1: Tray on a duratrax, or Initgy 0-30, Take them off immediately after the loghts go out. (right before i charge them)

2: Charge them and run....

I use the same regiment except I use a tekin tray and I use .03 peak detect.

me21 how do you prevent cells from becomming over discharged? IMO any tray that doesn't have a seperate cell voltage cut off built in isn't worth using.
I believe that the 0-30 does discharge each cell individually as well as the Tekin and the Novak. I believe they are all tauted as discharge/equalization trays.

Chuck

me21 how do you prevent cells from becomming over discharged? IMO any tray that doesn't have a seperate cell voltage cut off built in isn't worth using.


It is just one of those things you have to pay close attention to, It never takes more then like 10-15 sec. so it is not that bad....

I have noticed that tray's that take the batteries down Slow, (tekin, novak) i dont like the outcome..... just what i have noticed....

I believe that the 0-30 does discharge each cell individually as well as the Tekin and the Novak. I believe they are all tauted as discharge/equalization trays.

Chuck

What Mike is saying is that the 0-30 doesn't have a cutoff until zero, as to where with the others have set cutoff points to prevent a deadshort situation from accuring.They all basically have individiual cell discharging.

If your pull your packs off the 0-30 when the lights go out your down to about .07 per cell. In my experience each light goes out within a few seconds of each other so no harm is done for the cells that are still discharging after the lights go out. I put mine on a Novak SmartTray after 2 or 3 runs to equalize them.

...................:wave:

pepe. Thanks. i was thinking of cell reversal.

With the IB3800s I,ve been;

Traying in a Tekin Batt Doctor tray till the lights go out.

Charging on a Tubo 35 GFX, 6.0 amps .03 peak detect one peak!
If my race is delayed more than 5 minutes I,ll repeak also at 6.0 amps .03 peak detect.

After race discharging on Turbo 35 GFX at 30 amps.They get to hot at 35 amps IMO.

Store until next raceday.

The original 3 packs of IB3800s I bought 4 months ago have lost no runtime have gained voltage compared to the matchers labels ( Pro Match ) and still have plenty of kick ;)

I do wish the lights were a little brighter or larger on the Tekin Battery Doctor tray, very hard to see outdoors.

Put your cheater glasses on Flash

I am:
Tekin Tray till lights go out(agreed that either the lights need to be better or the circuit should open after they are discharged)
Charge 6 Amps .02dV
Re-Peak 1 heat before at 7 Amps .01dV
After run discharge to 3.6V
Store until next week.

Chuck

Put your cheater glasses on Flash

Dang Wade I aint safe no where am I , LOL see ya went dirt racing yesterday, do any good?

Flash......Didn't win but had a good time. Fun place to race.
Coming your way before Daytona to shake out the brushless car. Will let you know what Saturday.

Cool, I,m hopeing to shake down my brushless car this weekend at Hobby World! Starting a new job tommorrow and will have more weekends off for RACING :thumbsup: