Short Fuse
02-06-2006, 03:46 PM
I’ve been bashing for a XXX-T about two years. I’m starting to get into racing. My GF tagged along to a few events and now wants to buy a Mini-T. We both have some questions.
A. First, we’ll start with her questions. :)
1. My BF uses Dean’s Ultra Plugs. Is there an adapter for the battery so I can use my Prophet charger? Would it be safe to just make one?
2. What rate should I charge the pack at?
3. What are some better batteries for longer run times?
4. How long will the Mini-T run on stock packs?
B. Okay, now for mine. :D
1. (answered)
2. (answered)
3. (answered)
4. I’m good with an iron, but I can’t get solder to stick to the endbell of my new motor. Any suggestions on soldering to CNC'd aluminum?
5. Is it worth the cash to go brushless?
6. I’m still waiting for the new gen of Li batts to come out. What are some nice Ni/mh cells/packs?
Thanks a bunch! :thumbsup:
Short Fuse
02-06-2006, 04:04 PM
Found this on the batt questions. Just ignore those first three questions of mine, I guess. :p
"Charge at 1.5-2 amps. Discharge to 5.4v for a 6 cell pack or 3.6v if you are using a 4 cell and leave till the following week. If you don't plan to use them for quite some time put 10 minutes of charge back into them before storage."
hankster
02-06-2006, 04:21 PM
4 - I believe a mini-t will run about 15 minutes with a stock motor.
4 - You can't solder aluminum. Motors should have a copper brush hood/holder that you solder the wires to.
5 - Only if there is a brushless class where you plan on racing. In the long run brushless should be less expensive and much less hassle.
6 - If you are starting racing then any "name brand" GP3300 packs will do you fine. They are much more durable then the newer IB3800 cells and the performance difference in offroad won't make a lot of difference on the track. Good driving and good tires will make the most difference there.
SuperXRAY
02-06-2006, 04:25 PM
Short Fuse,
4. Ouch, ouch...what you should NOT be doing is trying to solder to aluminum. All motors will have Copper or tin motor tabs...or if it's a Revolution style motor, then it will have brush tunnels. Then, I would solder some Dean's bars to the tunnels and you can then solder the wires to those. I'm not aware of any motors that use aluminum hookups (and forgive me if I'm wrong).
5. As for brushless, there's lots of debates on this issue and I won't get into it. It basically depends on what class you want to race in (and what your local tracks allow).
6. IB and GP make the best new batts, like 3800 and 4200/4300. You can SMC matched packs pretty cheap, or just buy unmatched.
Short Fuse
02-06-2006, 05:25 PM
Thanks folks! Soldered the ESC wires to the copper, and it runs like a dream.
What's the easiest way to build your own discharger? I like the one from Deans, but forking over $25 for something I could make...well, just doesn't make much sense.
Thanks again. :)
hankster
02-06-2006, 07:11 PM
Get 10 automotive bulbs and connect all of the neg. sides together and all of the pos. sides to together. All some wire and plugs and you are set to go. Many use stiff wire to solder the bulbs together, such as 12g house wiring.
DJ1978
02-07-2006, 08:52 AM
Thanks folks! Soldered the ESC wires to the copper, and it runs like a dream.
What's the easiest way to build your own discharger? I like the one from Deans, but forking over $25 for something I could make...well, just doesn't make much sense.
Thanks again. :)
1157 tail light bulbs are good to use. They draw 2 amps each. Use at least 10 to achieve a 20 amp draw. Also when soldering.. get a can of flux that you can use in addition to the flux in the solder. Applying a small amount to the joint you are working on will allow the solder to flow easier and faster. Solder will go where ever there is flux, so use it sparingly.
You can build it like the deans with a bar across them or lay them side by side with the bulbs alternating on the left and right, then solder the bodies directly together then run a wire to all the terminals on the ends.
Get a piece of 1/16th inch aluminum flashing from the hardware. Cut a piece about 9" square and bend a shield. cut a 1/2" wide strip 1" deep from each end in the middle on each end and bend it up into a C shape to support the bulbs. Secure them with shoe glue.
Shoot me an email with your address and I will send you some pics.
Dan
vBulletin® v3.6.8, Copyright ©2000-2009, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.