I need some more help..... Again. I think that my briggs carb is shot or atleast needs adjusting. When I get the engine goin' it runs great for about 30-35 seconds. But after a while it starts to sputter and die. When it's going, I'm blowing white smoke (gas?), a lot, almost like a fire. And when it quits, and I try again, It blows gas out of the exhaust and top of the carb. Is the jet or something mabe screwed up? Thanks again for your help.

P.S. If you know where I could buy a new one, that would help.

after its shut off, does gas keep flowing? make sure the float isn't hanging up, as for adjusting, try 1.5 turns out on each screw, if it has high and low speed needles, after going all the way in snug, then fine tune. though white smoke/blue to blueish white is oil, too much gas is black. the white smoke could be either the breather is letting oil by (serves as the valve cover as well) by being either worn out, or a air leak, like one from a leaky seal on a dipstick tube. or rings are stuck or worn rings. ask the local small engine shop about how much a new one would cost if you went that way.

the gas dosen't keep flowing when it's off. I checked the carb + float and all looks normal. I think that someting is letting gas through because I checked the spark plugs and they did have oil on and gas and/oil is comming out of the exhaust pipes. I will go through and re-tighten everything, thanks for your help guys. P.S go Pittburgh!!!

Has anyone ever heard of Alemite?? Saw an article, that if you added this into the oil, it would seal any leaks from worn rings... Lemme know

oils not gas smelling? or its overfilled? as for alemite, don't use any additives, you hear about duralube, (has chlorinated parrafins in it, essentially bleach, mixes with oil and can hydrochloric acid!! slick50 and its ptfe (teflon) clogs oil passages, such as that of the crosshatch on the bores. what brand and weight are you using? hd30 weight? make sure the adjustments are good, also damaged inlet needles need replacing

the cheapest ( I know, probably not the best) Mystik straight 30 weight. I am going to take the pistons out and have a looky at the rings, I try and start it first though. Thanks for you input!!!

well first you can take a look at the bore, but it is a cast iron bore, so i doubt it has much if any gouges in the walls. as for straight 30, no walmart around there? if its staying atleast over 50 degrees, (like to add a extra 10 degrees, due to it being a straight weight) picked up a box of castrol hd-30 cheap myself for a couple oldies, mobil 1's reserved for my newer ones, other oils such as sold at family dollar, don't go for weird brand names, but havoline hd-30's pretty good and you can get it cheap in places like that. some even go for a deisel rated 15w-40, its a 40 weight at temp.

the bore(s)is spotless, I remember that much from when I was looking internally for any damage. I think the carb is just messed up because I took it off, drained all the gas from it, looked, cleaned and put it back on. It ran for 5 minutes, I stopped it and try to start it again, and I wouldn't go. So it has to be flooding, everything is soaked with gas like the plugs and it's dripping out of the exhaust pipes. I'll have to do some tinkering with the jets and things like that. Any pointers are welcome, thanks for your help, have a good sunday, and hope your team wins!!

yes i would say it needs a go over, make sure to smell the oil, smells like gas real bad, change it! as for the carb, new gaskets and all?

I might just buy a carb from a guy off here. Says he has one that will fit my engine. How much do these run? Any clues?

Thanks for all of your help!!!!!!

for that one i wouldn't know, though he should give you a good deal on it.

Bugman has you looking into all the right stuff but its confusing if you are still burning oil. These carbs are, for the most part, fixed jet and seldom let gas by the needle and fill the oil but you do need to guard against that happening. Best way is a manaul fuel line cut off valve. There could be a hole in the float.

These carbs are well over 100.00 new but I'm not convinced you need a carb yet. Most often, these are easy to get up and working right.

Mike

if... lets say the intake pipes weren't on tight, and air was getting by, would this cause an ecess of white smoke and not strating?? I think the rings are still good, but I could be wrong.

A compression check would tell a lot about the shape of the jugs though the compression can be good and it may still smoke some. Drawing air at the intake is no good, could cause hard starting and bad running but I doubt plays any part in the smoking.

yeah it could have good compression, but still use oil, from it getting past the rings... i have one 89 12hp I/C engine, and i mean it will blow a nice puff of oil when you rev it up and down when its warmed up... my guess is the oil ring is worn out, or broken in that one, good compression, doesn't use all that much oil though......

oil ring?? or you mean the rings on the piston itself.

the oil ring, is the third ring in the back, it controls the oil. its one of three of the rings on each piston.

ok thats what I thought, uhhhhh any special technques to removing a piston??? Besides taking the connector rod of, not trying to loose any bolts in the sump?? Should it come out the head way, or though the inside?? Appreciate all of your help!!

well, your gonna have to have a torque wrench, and new locking plates (they help hold the end cap bolts in place) take the end caps off, but first take the head off, and slip the piston and connecting rod out the head way, the sump has to come off....... i would try to get everything else going right first. just to rule it out, the carb isn't getting any oil up from the breather into the carb when its running?

no, it's not taking oil into the carb, ever since I took it apart it has been leaking oil. Not much at all, only probably 1-2 drips a day, but i think i probably don't have the sump on tight enough.

a new gasket was used right? old was taken off good?

yeah, old one was removed( stubborn son of a b***h) right down to the metal, and I lightly sanded it also. New gaskets and all. I'm still coninced it's the carb though. I suppose a little tinkering wouldn't hurt. It's too cold to work out in the garage w/o a heater. (wise investment)

finally had time to take the carb off and found the following:

1.) The float needle wasn't attached to the float, causing it to bring in excessive gas. The tiny spring was supposed to go through the float hinge, not push against it

2.) Part of the linkage was binding, causing the throttle plate not to open fully.

I remember the day that it quit, I was bouncing around, and this could have casued this to happen quite easily, seeing how it wasn't attached very good.