Okay, here we go again. Earlier in the week I won a Fleabay auction for a spycam. It came in the mail yesterday, and I couldn't wait to start playing with it, so once the kids were in bed I started hacking on the ambulance body I'm converting to a TV truck. It started out looking like this, but plain white:

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/rwurtz/images/slotcam201.jpg

This is a plastic toy that was available in 3-packs from places like Wal-Mart and Big Lots. There's one screw holding the bottom on. I had previously started hacking at the wheelwells, and I guess I overdid them a little, but now I started on the mounting locations for the camera and the battery.

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/rwurtz/images/slotcam202.jpg

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/rwurtz/images/slotcam203.jpg

That wire in there is a paper clip. It holds the battery up off the chassis.

(to be continued)

(continued)

The battery slides in the back, and the battery clip will hang out of the back of the truck.

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/rwurtz/images/slotcam205.jpg

A trashed Porsche 917 (one of the chrome Nite-Glow ones) gave its life so that the SlotCam could have body mounts.

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/rwurtz/images/slotcam206.jpg

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/rwurtz/images/slotcam216.jpg

(to be continued)

Here's where the camera goes, and how it looks resting on the truck. Haven't figured out how to attach it yet...

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/rwurtz/images/slotcam207.jpg

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/rwurtz/images/slotcam208.jpg

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/rwurtz/images/slotcam209.jpg

(to be continued)

It's still in development, but here it is so far:

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/rwurtz/images/slotcam211.jpg

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/rwurtz/images/slotcam212.jpg

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/rwurtz/images/slotcam215.jpg

More info as I get to it...

--rick

very cool, mate, but what the heck are you to do with that big-ol jack hanging off the side of the mini-cam? I thought it would be a wireless rig.

Rick, Looking good. How about taking the camera apart and seeing if you can run a paper clip through it or it looks like the screws that are holding the case of the camera together are even with what is left of the truck hood. Is there enough plastic to use the existing screws to go through there and back into the case? Love the idea. Also wanted to tell you that I like the background music of the two vids you put on Scaleracers... :thumbsup:


Jeff

Like Joez said, I thought it would be wireless also. What if you used a semi-rig...put the batt. in first & then the camera facing out the rear. This way your "Film Crew" can be ahead of the "action".

The way you have it now is cool too!

Joe, that big jack isn't for video, it's for power. I didn't put the 9-volt adapter plug in the pics, but the one they give you attaches to that big jack. On the Scaleracers site (actually, it's linked to HO World) they show how to eliminate the jacks and hardwire the 9v plug to the camera. I gotta get brave and do that unless I want to just tape the wires to the top of the truck (NOT!) The thin black wire off the top of the camera is the transmitter antenna...

Jeff, I can't take credit for the music or editing of the videos. I sent John Kauffman a 20-minute VHS tape with no sound, and he edited it into "videos" and added the music. I think he did a GREAT job, and I can't wait to get a video capture card and the Windows software to try the editing stuff myself...

edit: car guy, I'm actually waiting for a US-1 Trucking chassis that I won on the Great Bay of E... it should fit this setup, and I can run it in reverse ahead of the action like you said...

--rick

Looks great Rick. I might have to try one of these myself. I wonder if I can get one to go through the bank turn at Warren's house... (Right.....)
Rick.. Another thought for you. Put the battery contacts inside the cab and slide the battery in from the back. That way you won't have the wires outside the truck...
And another thought. I wonder if a voltage regulator could be wired in (with a small cap) so the cam could could be run off track power? If you can run LEDs with track power, why not a cam?
Scott

Hey there Park-

This is an ingenious idea. I not an electric type of guy, so I’ll comment on the truck itself:

Are you going to paint the cam and the truck up? Will you be modeling the truck a bit after all is set up and working?

Does the chassis has traction magnets to offset the top-heaviness of the truck, or does it not need them?

I’m quite curious as to how it all works out. I’m sure it will all be good since this is similar to what Goose did.

Keep us posted of your “developments” :D

Congrats on thinking outside the (shutter) box! ;)


Cheers..

Boss, what I really want to do is to look at pictures of TV news camera trucks and model it after them. You know, make up some fictional TV station logos (I was thinking WRTZ--our last name is Wurtz). Maybe make it an affiliate of one of the major networks and put NBC's peacock or CBS's "eye" on it somewhere.

The chassis in the pics is a standard 440-X2 wide chassis, and yes it has traction magnets, and yes it still tips over easily. When I try the US-1 Trucking chassis, I think it'll tip less just because the speeds are so much lower. Also, I can set the US-1 chassis to run by itself on an old steering wheel controller and drive other cars around this thing to try to get footage.

This IS similar to Goose's truck, which I borrowed a while back, but a more recent one was built by some guys in Colorado and it's shown here:

http://www.scaleracers.com/FrontRangeHO/defaultVideo.asp

The two videos on that page with my name on them were recorded with Goose's truck, but John Kaufman did all the video editing and music. Also, the videos shot by him and the guys from his club are much more interesting to watch, since they're on 4-lane tracks with more going on. I hope to eventually visit a practice night for a club with a 4-lane (or 6-lane!) and get some footage there...

--rick

Looks great Rick. I might have to try one of these myself. I wonder if I can get one to go through the bank turn at Warren's house... (Right.....)
Rick.. Another thought for you. Put the battery contacts inside the cab and slide the battery in from the back. That way you won't have the wires outside the truck...
And another thought. I wonder if a voltage regulator could be wired in (with a small cap) so the cam could could be run off track power? If you can run LEDs with track power, why not a cam?
Scott

Hmmm. Wonder how big a cap I'd need to provide 8-12VDC, and how long it would run while track power was off. It would certainly lower the COG. That 9v all the way up high is murder trying to get around corners. I dunno if this thing would get thru that bank or if it'd tip. If I ever get it done and escape to Warren's again, we could test it...

--rick

I dunno if this thing would get thru that bank or if it'd tip.
--rick


rick,
that would be some great footage as the truck did 360s down the banked turn. :) Dave

Hmmm. Wonder how big a cap I'd need to provide 8-12VDC, and how long it would run while track power was off. It would certainly lower the COG. That 9v all the way up high is murder trying to get around corners. I dunno if this thing would get thru that bank or if it'd tip. If I ever get it done and escape to Warren's again, we could test it...

--rick Hey you could always put training wheels on the sides to keep it from rolling over in the corners... :) As for how long it would run after the power was turned off, well that would depend on what type of cap you used (not to mention where you would even put it). I was actually wondering what the required power draw is for the camera? Would it run on those nickle size 3v lithium batteries? Just wondering...

Jeff

SSSWWWWEEEEETTTTTTT!! Let us know where/when we can watch the video on friday night at 8pm. :)

Wes

Hey you could always put training wheels on the sides to keep it from rolling over in the corners... :) As for how long it would run after the power was turned off, well that would depend on what type of cap you used (not to mention where you would even put it). I was actually wondering what the required power draw is for the camera? Would it run on those nickle size 3v lithium batteries? Just wondering...

Jeff

John at Scaleracers used a pair of small 12v batteries (about the size of a AAA, apparently), but they are expensive. The kit comes with two ways to power the transmitter (camera) part: an 8v, 200mA AC adapter or a plug for a 9v battery, either of which plugs into that big ugly connector that I have to eliminate. My instructions don't say it, but I read somewhere else that the camera will work on 8-12v. (Actually, my directions say NOT to mix up the 8v 200mA DC converter for the transmitter with the 12v 500mA DC converter for the receiver or you could damage stuff.) I'm sure you could find smaller, lighter batteries to do the job, but for now I wanna try to stick with the 9v just so I don't mess anything up...

--rick

quick update...

Got the wiring done, mounted the camera to the front of the truck, started filming video... there's a LOT of interference from the motor, causing light/dark flashing of the picture. I'm working on installing a capacitor to cut down interference... pictures of the finished truck and more info as i get there.

--rick

this is what it looks like all wired up...

http://home.comcast.net/%7Erwurtz/images/slotcam219.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/%7Erwurtz/images/slotcam220.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/%7Erwurtz/images/slotcam221.jpg

and now for the bottom...

and this is what it looks like upside down.

http://home.comcast.net/%7Erwurtz/images/slotcam218.jpg

By carefully cutting and peeling off the rubber plug casing and not cutting the wires off that little circuit board, I was able to avoid desoldering and resoldering 3 wires. All I had to do was solder the 2 battery lead wires to the other end of the board where the jack's female lead had been soldered.

The whole camera and wiring unit goes in and comes out as one piece. I had to fish all the wiring thru the windshield opening, then press the black windshield glass (modified with a hole cut for the wires) back into place, and that was it...

--rick

Rick-

Pretty clean work and she looks pretty balanced. How does she ride?

Jim

quick update...

Got the wiring done, mounted the camera to the front of the truck, started filming video... there's a LOT of interference from the motor, causing light/dark flashing of the picture. I'm working on installing a capacitor to cut down interference... pictures of the finished truck and more info as i get there.

--rick

what about those so called 440X3 with capacitor chip?? will they work? just a idea. any updates on solving that problem?

Wes

A capacitor would help reduce radio frequency interference. If you know the cap value used in the X3 you could buy a cap from Radio Shack and solder it in. But just about any cap physically small enough to fit and with a voltage rating in the 25V-35V range should work pretty well.

Those videos are something else. I'm fascinated with the many possibilities. Maybe install some track cameras around the layout.

Jim--it actually handles okay if you don't mind driving slow. Try to push it much and it tips over. It'll keep up with a Tjet through the curves, but not much more than that. On the straight, if you nail it, it takes a while to get up there because of all that weight, and it sounds like it's NOT happy being rushed. I bet the gears wouldn't last long over time if you did a lot of hard acceleration with it. Then you gotta slow all that weight in time for the corner. The one John Kaufman did for Scaleracers uses a much lighter (but more expensive) battery, so that's another factor. However, yesterday I got the US-1 truck I won off the 'Bay, and it's a very different drive with that chassis under it. It's not quite as fast as a stock Tjet, but it's easier to drive than the 440, because it's geared so low... I can crawwwwl it around without it feeling twitchy or jumpy. I think they'll both make for interesting video if I can get the interference sorted out... (btw, Jim, I have a package going out to you tomorrow...)

Wes, I tried the X3--I happen to have a couple. Didn't do much good... see my message for AfxToo below...

AfxToo, John Kaufman put me in touch with the electronics guy who worked on the Scaleracers truck... he saw a pic of the X3 and said the cap was too small for what I was trying to do. He said, as you did, that a 25V-50V would work well, I just have to look a little to get one small enough. He put a 50V in their truck. When I get a chance to go to an electronics store... He also pointed out that clean electrical connections EVERYWHERE will help--clean track rails, clean pickup shoes, good contact from shoes to the motor, good contact between brushes and comm... anywhere that the connection is iffy will potentially cause interference.

--rick

Yeah a small electrolytic cap (looks like a little can) would work much better than the X3 ceramic one. It's the capacitance that you care about, the voltage just has to be greater than the maximum voltage you'll be putting across it. I like a 1.5X or greater margin so a 35V or 50V cap would be fine. You'll mostly be limited by the physical size of the cap and fitting it into your vehicle. If you can, try to get the highest capacitance non polarized electrolytic cap you can find that will fit your space constraints. If the cap is polarized it must be connected in the correct polarity (+ side connects to + track power).

The X3 caps are probably less than 0.1 uF (microfarad) so even a 1 uF would be better but a 10 uF, 200 uF, or 500 uF would be better still. Radio Shack should have a selection of caps in the $1.00 to $2.00 price range.

I'm thinking that it would be kind of neat to put one of these cameras into a track timing gantry.

adding this text so i can follow the progress!

Funny, if you watch the Scaleracers videos there is interference from the car.

Great video editing on some of those video clips. "do-whacka-do-whacka-do..." :thumbsup:

yeah, but there's interference and then there's INTERFERENCE. The setup I borrowed last year got a little static in the pic, but nothing major. This one I built now, there is VERY distracting light/dark flashing that seems to happen with the clicking of the track joints. I'm hoping the cap will get it to go away. Just picked up a cap, by the way... the same rating as the one that Scaleracers used on their truck, and looks a lot like it too. It's .047 microfarads, whatever that means, and rated at 50 volts. Nice tiny little package. Cost all of 90 cents. Now I just gotta get around to soldering it in...

--rick

Rick,
Come on Chop Chop. I've got my popcorn ready and I need a TJet movie! Get to soldering. :) Dave

Rick,
Come on Chop Chop. I've got my popcorn ready and I need a TJet movie! Get to soldering. :) Dave

Yeah I remember that he was making a ending on "vanishing point" - we all bugged him to show us the ending and now this. Rick hurry up!!! just kidding let us know if you solved the interference problem. :)

I ll join Dave for free popcorn.. :)

Wes

OK, OK, jeez, you guys, ya can't rush art... and I'm an ar-TEEST! :rolleyes:

Seriously, I put the capacitor on the US-1 chassis and it made very little difference. I also made a "shield" out of a diecast blister with adhesive-backed foil on it, and it made the picture better--a lot better with the 440 chassis, and somewhat better with the US-1 chassis. I am absloutely perplexed by the fact that the one I borrowed last year was a US-1 with no shielding and no capacitors and rubberbanded together and it worked GREAT! (What was your secret, Goose?)

Anyway, I am gonna try a little video stuff with the 440 chassis as soon as I can get to it, but I don't have a video capture card yet. I think the technology teacher where I work has a setup that will allow me to get it off VHS and onto a disc, so we'll see if I can get some video soon...

--rick

First off, here's a pic of the "shield" I made. I'm not sure if it's actually part of the solution...

http://home.comcast.net/%7Erwurtz/images/slotcam222.jpg

The foil doesn't go all the way to the back of the truck, but the clear plastic does... that oil spray you see from the rear axle/worm gear isn't actually on the battery, it's on the clear plastic.

Now, I was diddling with this again yesterday, and for no particular reason, I stuck the end of the antenna wire in the hole in the roof where the dummy light bar was attached.

http://home.comcast.net/%7Erwurtz/images/slotcam223.jpg

Cleared up 90% of the interference--this picture is now as good as the one from the truck I used last year. So I screwed around and shot an hour of video, with the truck running both forwards and backwards, with the truck on autopilot (an old steering wheel controller) and it occurred to me that my 2-lane just isn't that interesting for that long. But with some music and editing and other shots of the track, I think I can get some neat "videos"... Also, I have a teeny little 4-lane door track that I'm gonna try to get some footage of later with my 7- and 8-year olds doing some driving...

Still need a video capture card to finish doing this right...

--rick

Hey,Park! This whole rig is such a neat concept. I toyed with the idea when I saw the tiny cameras on Epay but soon scrapped the notion because I do NOT have computer/electronic know-how. I do not understand the stuff. I can't even see the vids at the link you shared because I am on dial-up and it takes forever to load. *sigh* One day, eh? heh! Thank you for sharing your project. At least I know that my idea was not just too stupid or crazy to work! You pulled it off beautifuly. Great execution! I would also add that I am impressed over the fact that you have kept hammering away at this project to make it "right". :thumbsup:

Now, I was diddling with this again yesterday, and for no particular reason, I stuck the end of the antenna wire in the hole in the roof where the dummy light bar was attached.
Cleared up 90% of the interference--this picture is now as good as the one from the truck I used last year.
************************************************** **********

Interesting... Since the antenna isn't extended directly over the running motor it avoids the interference...
How well does that truck motor with that worm drive? Slow but steady?
Scott

Hey Park, doggone I got the same problem as Joe- my computer wont load video, but when ya get some footage, hopefully my brother in law can load em. That will be a lot of fun to see, man! Lookin foreward to it.

DAC

Joe and DAC, when I finally get set up with the video card, maybe I can burn a couple of the video files on some CDs, then smail mail 'em...

Scott, I was thinking that now that the entire antenna is directly above the "shield", it's not picking up interference, which I think comes mainly from the commutator. It won't keep up with my fastest Tjets, but I think it'll outrun the dogs. The cool part is that it'll crawwwwwwwwl, no complaints, problems, twitchiness...

I'm seriously still wondering if it'll handle Warren's bank. His track would be VERY good for video with all that scenery...

I'm also thinking that this thing would be very cool to run around White Rock...

--rick

Joe and DAC, when I finally get set up with the video card, maybe I can burn a couple of the video files on some CDs, then smail mail 'em...

wondering if it'll handle Warren's bank. His track would be VERY good for video with all that scenery...



--rick


hey rick! 1st of all, thanks for the vid offer! very very kind!
2nd, Go to the radio shack and get yourself some dot magnets (neo) to glue to the bottom of the chassis. The camera truck WILL stick to the banked turns! If you can't find any, I would be happy to send you some!

Awesome!! Can't wait til you start filming it.. Will you let us know step by step on how to make it with no interference? I'm gonna buy one soon.

Thanks
Wes

You might try one of Ed Bianchi's Slide Guides. The braid pickups should reduce interference from intermittent electrical contact inherent in shoe, or wiper pickups. Good Luck with your project!
Aside to Joez870 - I've been to Radio Shack looking for those neo dots. They claim to never have carried such a product. Can you give me their item name for these, or a part #? Thanks!

Jeauxc, That is the same thing they told me when I went looking for them... I decided to take a few minutes and look around, and low and behold there were over 12 packages hanging on a peg. I didn't keep the package so I don't have the part number but there were other magnets in the area that I found them in. HTH

Jeff

I'm seriously still wondering if it'll handle Warren's bank. His track would be VERY good for video with all that scenery...

I'm also thinking that this thing would be very cool to run around White Rock...

--rick

I like the idea of the dot magnets....
Hmmm...
The cam truck around the bank.
I bet the view would be...... Interesting...

Scott

Dot magnet source:

http://www.engconcepts.net/List_Of_Disc_Magnets.asp

Radio Shack part no. for "Rare-earth super magnets" is 64-1895. Package of 2 1/8 in. diameter round magnets for $1.59 according to my 2002 catalog. Does anyone have more recent info on this item?

Here is another source for the magnets. For the price, I have gotten a lot of different sizes to play with for under $10. The magnets are all priced .10 -.20 each.

http://www.gaussboys.com

Jim

Maybe add a rear guide pin too. That would make it harder to deslot the truck, and you could run it in reverse for some "view from the pace car" film footage.

Maybe add a rear guide pin too. That would make it harder to deslot the truck, and you could run it in reverse for some "view from the pace car" film footage.

Done. US-1 vehicles come with a rear guide pin, as they are designed to go forward and reverse. I've already shot rear-facing video with it. Very interesting. :D

Hmmm... ya know, the new Mattel Highway 35 set cars, and maybe some others, also have front/rear guide pins. The Nomad is a pan chassis. It'd fit right under this body. I gotta tell that to the guy at Scaleracers who just built a dedicated rear-facing camera car on a 440 chassis...

--rick