Introduction

What I'm describing here is my second cardstock model of the Jupiter 2. My first is based on the full-size mock up, which had simplified upper hull contours, using straight conic sections. It is an in-flight configuration, but I also made a separate landing gear trivet for it.

I am not a paper modeler. There were no Jupiter 2 model kits, when I first turned on to Lost in Space. One day in third grade art class, a teacher pointed out that one could make any conic section from a flat sheet. I couldn't wait to get home, get all the shirt cardboard available, and start making a Jupiter 2 model. I remember using pins for the landing gear struts(the legs were simply flaps cut in the lower hull, and folded up to retract.) I also made a small sand box, for a planetary display.

I didn't really properly apply the lesson about conic sections, though. I thought I could just freehand draw flat cut-outs for the hull. I wasn't satisfied with it's appearance, but at least I had some kind of J2 model.

Last year, I started the Polar Lights kit, but I was unhappy with the lower hull proportions. While contemplating trying vacuforming, I thought it would be cool to give my early experience to young modelers, only give them enough to make a satisfying model. The result is my first model. It uses a marble for the top dome, the pilot seats are modified Hot Wheels car seats, it's fully painted, and there are other things which distinguish it from typical paper models.

I was so jazzed about how it was coming out, that I started thinking about how it could be modified, to render the compound curves of the TV prop. My second model uses layers of cardstock to build up the hull curves terrace-like, and high-fill primer to round them out. I made up graphics, which I can provide.


Status

At this point, I have all the upper hull pieces cut out, including the temporary spacer disc, which is used to hold the outer support wall to shape as the hull top is glued, and accurately locate the inner support wall during it's installation. The donut used to locate the outer support wall and hull side is glued to the base, both support walls are ready to mount, as are the base layers of the hull sides, and top.

Now, the challenging part. This is my second effort, using this hull building idea. The first time, I glued the hull base layers to the base first, then added the outer layers, using white glue. The process of ironing down the outer layers distorted the glue-softened inner layers inward, undermining the whole aim of the effort. This time, I'll keep the hull free, and use spray glue. This should avoid both the wetting/softening problem, and allow me to press the layers together from both sides.

wow!! i'd like to see some pic's!!!!!!!!!!!

Me too !!! :wave:

wow!! i'd like to see some pic's!!!!!!!!!!!

I'm not used to taking pictures of my work. I bought a throw-away camera for my first J2 cardstock model, but I doubt that will give good close-up shots.

I could definitely use some advice. What are the minimum camera requirements, for good model photography? Is a digital camera usable?

any digital should work, i dont know alot about camera's but i had a cheap digital that worked ok. maybe you got a friend that can take some pic's!

your work sounds pretty cool!!

any digital should work, i dont know alot about camera's but i had a cheap digital that worked ok. maybe you got a friend that can take some pic's!

your work sounds pretty cool!!

Thanks for your help and support, John. I will provide pics, as soon as I can.

I should have added, that I also want to take pics for auction use. I have always valued high-quality photos in that situation, and I have no idea what is necessary, to do that level of work.

I would think a digital camera would be your best bet.

Of course I don't have one myself - so I really cannot say for sure - but I am very good at taking poor pictures so I feel somewhat qualified to steer you away from there. :p

I think digital camera would be easiet and most direct because with photopaper cameras you'll need to develope the pix and then scan them into the computer and then distribute them ... with a digital camera you can just upload them to your computer from the camera and eliminate all the stuff inbetween.

That too I supose depends on what type of computer setup you have... I think you can connect a digicam via USB and not just firewire or docking station ..???

A while back folks raved about 4 megapixel standard and it superiority ... now a days 4 mp is affordable as I think they are up to 7mp now ... I think you can get a good price on a 3-4mp digicam and get good results for eebbaayy and inquiring minds here at hobbytalk forum. :thumbsup:

Though you really might want to ask someone who actually HAS A DIGITAL CAMERA first before buying one !!! lol

All I can say is that I want one!

Mike(?),
Thanks much- you make good points. I'll try to u/l my main work drawing, in lieu of pictures. It'll show what I'm doing, anyway.

At this point, I have assembled all the outer layers to the top and side base layers. There were three for the top, and two on the sides. Also, the top has been glued to the support walls, and the top edge of the sides has been tacked to the top.

I should add, that the top and sides came out great. No distortion- which means the hull curves should stand out properly, if the primer works right. The glue and extra layers has made the upper hull very strong, too.

Here's my main model drawing. I know- not as good as pics. But all I can do, right now. It does show the layering technique I used on the upper hull.

Oddly, it didn't occur to me how much this layering would strengthen the hull. This is a major benefit, as at least the inner support wall can be dispensed with. This wall is the major problem to providing interior detail. The outer wall, although also probably unnecessary, is located in about the right place to represent many panels and hatches.

About all I've done today, aside from scratching my head about lower hull stuff, is glue the upper edge of the sides to the top's outer edge, and top of the outer support wall. So, now the upper hull is fully assembled, but separate from it's base. I did it this way, to keep my options open. I may remove the inner support wall, for instance. Or, perhaps, make the outer hatch functional.

Me too !!! :wave:




me too !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I hope to borrow a friend's digital camera and get pix of the assembled upper hull. Since I'm still designing the landing gear mechanicals, I'm in no hurry to start priming yet.

While I'm at it, I'll get pix of my first cardstock J2 model, too.

I'd like to let you know more about my plans for this model. It will feature a simplified landing gear, which will be manually operated by turning the fusion core. It will also have motor-driven spinning lights in the fusion core, and a rotating beacon in the dome. Again, I plan to use a clear marble for the dome, so I'm not sure what I can do there, yet. My own model will just have cockpit detail, and a scrim, like the prop. However, the design is such, that one could provide full upper deck detail. You'd need to either redesign the dome lights, or forego them, though.

Because of the model's small size, I'm going with a simple landing gear mechanism. My first attempt at this layered hull construction technique was in 1/64 scale, and would have had a fully prototypically functional, motor driven landing gear, with functional pad doors. After the failure of that hull, I wanted to go back to the small size of the first model. I gave some thought to the landing gear, which I consider to be very important.

I decided to go with a simplified design. Turning the fusion core, the gear will deploy in the prototypical fashion, i.e., all the legs will come down together, and the struts will maintain the proper angle as they do- again, as the prototype. Turning the other way retracts the gear. The simplification is that there are no pad doors. The area where the doors would be will actually serve as the underside of the landing pad. The base of the pads will actually be hinged to the leg. If one looks very close, the short part of the leg which connects to the pad base can be seen; however, I'm quite happy with the design.

I've been designing the working features, and I'm very happy with the ideas that I've come up with. This is really the most satisfying thing, when it comes to these projects.

The lower hull will also be of cardstock. I have thought about cranking out an in-flight quickie, and I may still do so. Lately, I have been primarily working on the operating landing gear details. That is now largely worked out, as are the fusion core lights/ dome stuff. Even though this is a small model, I'd also like to have sound effects, but that's a whole 'nother kettle of fish.

Next indicated step is actual construction. As the stuff is de-bugged and gotten successful, I'll put up the final design drawings. I still need to connect with my friend with the digital camera, but there will be pictures.

When I was a kid in 5th grade, I also tinkered together a jupiter 2 about 6 inches across. It was cardboard, and had glow in the dark plastic pieces glued together for the bubble, and a flat sheet inside, about 1.5 inches from the main window was covered with similar glow in the dark pieces. For the fusion core, the bottom spun with 5 pieces of the glow-in-the-dark plastic glued inside. the pieces could be seen spinning inside the core. The gear folded up inside, and the feet had pencil eraser inside to hold the paperclip wires that represented the struts. I think I still have one photo(blurry) of it. it had 2 cones below the deck, and 3 above, since I had a slight curve in the upper hull wall. I Wish I still had it, as it would be an interesting artifact of my kidhood.

When I was a kid in 5th grade, I also tinkered together a jupiter 2 about 6 inches across. It was cardboard, and had glow in the dark plastic pieces glued together for the bubble, and a flat sheet inside, about 1.5 inches from the main window was covered with similar glow in the dark pieces. For the fusion core, the bottom spun with 5 pieces of the glow-in-the-dark plastic glued inside. the pieces could be seen spinning inside the core. The gear folded up inside, and the feet had pencil eraser inside to hold the paperclip wires that represented the struts. I think I still have one photo(blurry) of it. it had 2 cones below the deck, and 3 above, since I had a slight curve in the upper hull wall. I Wish I still had it, as it would be an interesting artifact of my kidhood.

I enjoyed that- thank you. I'd like seeing your photo. My model was only about 3", and with far less detail than yours.

When I started the first model, with the mock-up lines, I was thinking of kids building it. Sadly, I realized no kids today would give a dead sewer rat's ass for the Jupiter 2. I'll still put up pictures, drawings, and instructions for it, as I can. It is a cute quickie(if you avoid my mistakes!)

When it came to the second model, I wanted to come up with a direct fabrication technique for the upper hull, which did not require patterns, molds, or other tooling. I'm very happy with the results. This technique has much more potential, in that it can be used for any scale, to give a properly curved hull. I worked out the mathematical model, from which the width of the layers can be figured. The hull top is really strong, and requires no additional support, so a fully detailed interior can be done. Again, I'll provide the specifics, as I can.

I got a voice mail from the friend who may have a digital camera, but I didn't make contact, today.

I've been re-thinking the designs for the landing gear activation, as I want to isolate all of that from the rotating lights. I need to feel very positive about the final mechanism, before I build. So, work continues; just on the drawing board, rather than the building board.

WHEN are we gonna see them photos??

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Best wishes! I can't imagine ever wanting one, myself. My interest is limited to mechanism design. Especially, of originals.

WHEN are we gonna see them photos??

I talked to my friend about it. He has a suitable camera, and is willing to help me. He has a full schedule, and I'm not well, so it may take a while to get the photos.

Go ahead and delete all my posts, if I'm a problem.

Sorry, just nagging. I'm very interested in your Jupiter 2.

I am not a paper modeler. There were no Jupiter 2 model kits, when I first turned on to Lost in Space. One day in third grade art class, a teacher pointed out that one could make any conic section from a flat sheet. I couldn't wait to get home, get all the shirt cardboard available, and start making a Jupiter 2 model. I remember using pins for the landing gear struts (the legs were simply flaps cut in the lower hull, and folded up to retract). I also made a small sand box, for a planetary display.
I just remembered, after reading your post, that I made a similar paper model when I was a kid. The difference is that my subject was Uncle Martin's spaceship from My Favorite Martian. A local paper supply company (which was open to the public) had this amazing posterboard that was clad on one side with some kind of silver film, and it replicated the surface of the ship almost perfectly. It was only 5"-6" in length (as I recall) so I used flat toothpicks for the landing legs. I wonder what ever happened to it... :confused:

I did a BUNCH of cardboard and tid-bit models. I did a Martian Manta, a Proteus with pingpong ball for the front, and the Mystery Ship from that 1936 German movie which was used in "Space Explorers". I did 3 Jupiter 2's and a "This Island Earth" ship, and a Supercar from a Pink Eraser and cardboard fins. A fireball XL-5 from a cardboard tube and it used an oversize pencil eraser (the type you put on the pencil when you've used up the original). I HAD a Seaview. Had a Cyclops and Chariot too. And the stupid "Switch-n-Go" set too. My only My Favorite Martian" ship was from the magic set. 3rd Grade Teacher (Mrs.Borelli) took it and never returned it. I made a Space Pod too, but IT stunk. Just when I was planning a Spindrift, the Aurora plastic one came out so...... Oh, and I did attempt a Nautilus, but the side stuff was horrid, so I pitched it.

I just remembered, after reading your post, that I made a similar paper model when I was a kid. The difference is that my subject was Uncle Martin's spaceship from My Favorite Martian. A local paper supply company (which was open to the public) had this amazing posterboard that was clad on one side with some kind of silver film, and it replicated the surface of the ship almost perfectly. It was only 5"-6" in length (as I recall) so I used flat toothpicks for the landing legs. I wonder what ever happened to it... :confused:

We had a place called McAllister's Paper Co., which sounds like yours. I don't think they had the foil posterboard in the 60's yet, though.

I did a BUNCH of cardboard and tid-bit models. I did a Martian Manta, a Proteus with pingpong ball for the front, and the Mystery Ship from that 1936 German movie which was used in "Space Explorers". I did 3 Jupiter 2's and a "This Island Earth" ship, and a Supercar from a Pink Eraser and cardboard fins. A fireball XL-5 from a cardboard tube and it used an oversize pencil eraser (the type you put on the pencil when you've used up the original). I HAD a Seaview. Had a Cyclops and Chariot too. And the stupid "Switch-n-Go" set too. My only My Favorite Martian" ship was from the magic set. 3rd Grade Teacher (Mrs.Borelli) took it and never returned it. I made a Space Pod too, but IT stunk. Just when I was planning a Spindrift, the Aurora plastic one came out so...... Oh, and I did attempt a Nautilus, but the side stuff was horrid, so I pitched it.

I think I had that same magic set. The MFM ship slid down a string, didn't it?

I need to make a nice RC Nautilus that I can run in the pool.

We had a place called McAllister's Paper Co., which sounds like yours. I don't think they had the foil posterboard in the 60's yet, though.
Yep, that's the place! If I remember correctly, I built "Uncle Martin's" spaceship in the mid to late 70's.

Just a quick update. No pics yet, but soon.

I spent a few days looking into the possibility of an LED light chaser, for fusion core lighting. I bought some Xmas lights: some with chaser circuits, some with LED's.

I'm also looking at the landing gear design. Because of the model's small HO size, I may go with the separate trivet add-on, such as I made for the first model.

Finally have some pix for you. The first here are of the previous model, with the simplified lines, and landing gear trivet.

Obviously, it is NOT finished, and I won't get back to it, until the current model is done.

More of my first cardstock design, which is not yet fully completed. It has no lights- what you see in the glass marble dome are flash reflections.

In the third shot, you can easily see the vertical portion of the coathanger wire support which I retrofitted, after I cut away the outer support wall from behind the viewport.

This is the current model's assembled upper hull. Unfortunately, you can't see the 'topographical' approximation to the correct hull curvature, in these photos. You can see the inner structure. As I've mentioned before, the top is so rigid, the inner wall is really not needed.

Looks Great!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Looks Great!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thank you. :)

Wow!!! Excellent!!!

Wow!!! Excellent!!!

Glad you like it. :)

Well, it has taken a while, but I believe my mechanicals are pretty well worked out. I know I spoke of a simplified landing gear, but I just wasn't happy with that. The landing gear will be fully functional, like the TV filming miniature: the pad doors pull back slightly, then swing to the side. Then, the gear legs deploy. The pads and struts will also function the way they did on the show.

The dome and fusion core lights will also work like the original. I'll try to put up as many construction pictures as possible, but I still must rely on a friend's digital camera. As the design proves out, I'll also post the relevant assembly drawings.

Great Job Toyroy!!! Looks awesome so far! Keep posting those pics!

Great Job Toyroy!!! Looks awesome so far! Keep posting those pics!
Thank you. I can't afford a camera right now, though.

Toyroy

Looks great.

Regarding the camera - you could try a cheap web cam. Look at logitechs cameras - They can capture at 640x480 and you can usually pick them up for about $40. They are compatible with 98 thru XP. Granted not the megapixel quality, but a good starting point. You can zoom in, and adjust as needed.

If you look at other webcams read the boxes carefully. most do not capture at the same resulotion as logitech.

...Regarding the camera - you could try a cheap web cam. Look at logitechs cameras - They can capture at 640x480 and you can usually pick them up for about $40. They are compatible with 98 thru XP. Granted not the megapixel quality, but a good starting point. You can zoom in, and adjust as needed.

If you look at other webcams read the boxes carefully. most do not capture at the same resulotion as logitech.

Thanks, for the compliment, and the webcam tip.

I am burned out on my Jupiter 2 models right now. Lately, I have been working on a model locomotive kitbash. At some point, I will get back to the Jupiter 2 and finish it, as I have planned.

Working HO scale or just for fun cardboard one?

Working HO scale or just for fun cardboard one?

God, I'm so ashamed! I bought some HO battery locos at the 99 Cent store, with the idea of using the motors and gearsets for the J2 landing gear, and fusion core light spinner.

These toys are a stripped-down version of trains made for Xmas Dept. 56-style villages. Just a plastic 1870s-ish 4-4-0 and tender, and circle of tight-radius, all-plastic HO track, on a header card. The engines are pink-painted(!) and black, or brass-painted and black. The loco is not too bad, really, so I got sucked into messing with them, right away.

After finishing both a pink and a brass 'minimally modified' engine, I decided to make an Sn3.5 consolidation(HO gauge is 3' 5" in S scale). The Dept. 56 style villages are really S scale(1/64), so both HO scale, and On30 trains are wrong. The American Flyer 'Frontiersman' is actually O scale, too.

I did a bit of checking, and discovered that, outside the U.S., 3 1/2' gauge is easily the most common narrow gauge. There are several Canadian roads built to this gauge, and a woodcut of an early 42" ga. locomotive looks very similar to a D&RG C-16. No more rationale required; I'm building it, as I write this. It is 75%, or more, done.

I'm also thinking about doing a Mason 2-6-6T-type. Am I stupid, crazy, or what? :drunk:

wow, that is some work you have done, GREAT JOB

hey, what happened ? i just posted my 2000 posed and it dropped down to 1700 ?????

oops not 2000 it was 1699 gotta start gettin more sleep. lol

wow, that is some work you have done, GREAT JOB

Thank you. Hopefully, I will get back to the J2 project soon.

Toy,

My primary hobby outside Sci-Fi is model RR.. I do HO 1930's era Norfolk & Western steam. Most all the earlier engines are too expensive in brass, or not available. I've ended up scratch building prototypes and then getting all teh stuff for 2-5 each of the engines I want. I model a more mountainous area so few tiny engines. I have 12 of the 2-8-8-2's(Y2, and Y3's) mostly Powerhouse semi-brass jobs, 2 USRA Heavy 4-8-2's(K2a's) a N&W 4-8-2 really heavy(K3), two 2-8-0 old timers(G-1) and 10 4-8-0 heavies(M2c). the M2c's have cast boilers, and added piping, appliances, and cabs, and piecemealed cylinders and valve gear(Baker-Pilloid). The 2-8-8-2's, 4-8-2(K3) and the 4-8-0(M2c's) were all the heaviest, most tractive effort types of their wheel arrangement. Good thing I ain't hard core! LOL

Mark, you have mail
Bert

...My primary hobby outside Sci-Fi is model RR...

I loved those pics you posted of spaceships on your layout! I wasn't really thinking of integrating the two hobbies, when I picked HO for the cardstock J2. Just figuring to modify HO figures, etc. But, in the past, I have considered building a model railroad of Knott's, or Disneyland. They're a perfect excuse for a small layout, chock-full of interesting scenery, and animation possibilities.

Another idea might be to build something of an Irwin Allen-themed layout, with the Seaview docked at the Nelson Institute, the Jupiter 2 launch facilities of Alpha Control, the Time Tunnel, with it's secret desert entrance, or the Spindrift's suborbital terminal.

BTW, there IS a "Model Railroading" thread here, at HobbyTalk. I referred to my Jupiter 2 project, so it comes up when one searches under "Jupiter 2". :thumbsup: