Well was cycling a tq 35 amp pack was not paying attention and went to check on the pack looked at the gfx and for the last 1700 seconds i had been charging it BACKWARDS !!!! AGGGGGGH! there goes a great pack right wrong. i stoped put the leads on correctley . no excuse i am colorblind and the tape fell off the positive clip to tell me its red . Back to the story cycled it the pack did not drop at all 372 runtime 4.81 volts 8.4 air good job ib i hooked up a gp like that once and it was trash!!! :thumbsup:

dave w 1. Did you have battery deadshorted to start? should not the gfx have noticed battery leads were connected wrong?

Nope No Dead Short But Was On Long Lock Out!

this can happen to any pack..

Yea I killed I very nice pack at the birds the same way.

Doug P

i lent a good friend of mine my best smc gp 3300 pack for a stock oval race once..he charged it backwards and the pack was toast! nice to hear that the IB cells could take a blonde moment and pull thru! very cool

Any tested opinions on dead shorting the 3800's?
My experience was not good...
Assembled the packs, gave them one cycle, very good numbers, then deadshorted...
Waited a few days, cycled them, wow.... shit city....
ALMOST as good as my best 6 month old 3300 pack...
Got 3 very similar SMC packs at the same time, all 3 had the same relative results.
So it wasn't like one freakie pack... it was all 3...
I'd have to say until a lot of people start bragging about how good it is
to DS them... I wouldn't....

others?

dead shorting them has little effect on the numbers. exept for a huge loss in runtime... I wouldnt cycle any pack before it has at least 3-4 runs on them.. they need to be run in before a cycle. the load is different, and it can show false numbers..

TRUST ME I FOUND OUT THE EXPENSIVE WAY by dead shorting i lost alot of rubtime and did not see a big voltage increse no i :wave: use the integy 0-30till the lights go out and show zero on a volt meater then i take them out and store them that way NO DEAD SHORT! i have cells that are 378 runtime 4.80 + and 8.3 and lower for air now that tekin has a new cell doctor il be using that to equalize them! still nice to see the cell could take it!!!

Dave,
That cell doctor tray, is that one of those trays where you put it on and leave it there until you charge it again ? Could get pretty pricey buying a bunch of trays for all my packs, even though each tray can do 2 4 cell packs. ughh
anyone know how much they sell for ?

TRUST ME I FOUND OUT THE EXPENSIVE WAY by dead shorting i lost alot of rubtime and did not see a big voltage increse no i :wave: use the integy 0-30till the lights go out and show zero on a volt meater then i take them out and store them that way NO DEAD SHORT! i have cells that are 378 runtime 4.80 + and 8.3 and lower for air now that tekin has a new cell doctor il be using that to equalize them! still nice to see the cell could take it!!!


Dave
I just hope the cells that you are talking about in the beginning of your post are not the ones that you sold me but it sounds like they are. Guess you have changed your mind about deadshorting. Lets just say that would not be cool.

Beamer,
In Dave's defense. Those that bought early IB cells, took a gamble on trying things like shorting. I shorted my early date code packs and they are fine. 346-356, 4.74-4.76, 8.6 IR's. If you de-tune the motor some, they run just as good if not better than my 333, 4.73 packs of 3300's.
If your runtime is 345+ then your packs will be fine.

With any new cell it's gonna take time to figure out what they like. And being that IB was tweaking things with each batch didnt help matters but looks like they found a really good cell structure they will be using going forward. Finally some consistency now.

But overall from talking with Steve @ TQ and doing some of my own testing....de-tuning is key for running fast with the IB's. My guess is the juice just pours out to quickly with the low IR's which heats up the motor quicker than 3300's. Plus anytime you add more voltage the motor is gonna spin quicker (higher RPM) requiring a lower rollout. I wish I could give out the perfect brush or perfect cut on it but I just haven't gotten that far yet.
Steve is having really good luck with the Putnam Green (+) and Putnam Blue (-) combo and shaving off the edges of the brush to reduce the amp draw to about 8.0-8.5 at 2.5v with fan. I tried running some F-brushes pulling 11.0-11.5 at 2.5v with fan and forget about it. Pulled great times up front but lost a tenth at the end over 3300's.

Erock
Thanks for the info on the IB's. I didn't want to start anything or be a dick, and I guess I should have sent Dave an email instead of posting on here. Sorry about that. If these are the cells that Dave sold to me, then his expanation to me of why he was selling them was different than what he posted. No big deal just should have brought it up with Dave.
Ayways, regarding the IB's. I am running 6 cell IB packs in my DO car. When I first started with them I just discharged them down to 5.4 at 30 on the turbo 35 and left them and then just charged them the next week. They were ok, but since I just got back into the hobby after being out for more than 10 years I had nothing to campare them too. I then got an Integy Zero 30. I would discharge the packs down the same way after a race on the turbo 35. But then when I got to the track the next week, I put them on the integy till the lights went out, waited for them to cool and then charged them up. What a difference it seemed to make the very first time out with them. I have not cycled them yet to see the numbers but plan on it. Just wanted to share my experience with them so far.

HEY hold on a minute i will refund your money right now if you think you have been riped off ive been around fo 20 = years i sold you 8 new packs for 180.00 bucks with a free case and i paid for shipping there was nothing wrong with those packs ! i have over 28 4 cell packs in my box i constatly rotate stock thanks for the KIND WORDS !

Dave
I am sending you an email. Sorry about all of this. Not trying to make you look bad. You gave me a hell of a deal and I still think it is. Sorry

Hell of a Deal is an understatement. GO try to find any good pack for $22.50 that has only been used maybe 4 times and you did pretty good. Dave would never sell junk. he would sooner throw somthing away if he felt it was junk! and thats a fact.

joe ivo

PACKS THAT I EXPERIMENTED WITH AND I KILLED ARE SITTING IN A PILE OF CRAP IN MY GARAGE ask joe i dont need the money but again if you are unsatisfied i will refund your money !

Guys
Alright first of all, I know it was a hell of a deal, and NO I don't want a refund. The reason I posted what I posted was not because I was not satisfied or that the batteries were junk. I never said that ever. Dave I explained my reasoning in my email too you. I haven't even run them or done anything to them since I received them so I can't say anything about them. Again sorry Dave.

okay have a nice day

I think I'm going to stand on what I said earlier, and with all
the different opinions it appears to be a safe route.
My best TQ 3300 pack is better than any of the 3 3800 packs that
I dead shorted... So I'm just saying, I'll wait until more guys experiment
with their dollars, like the guys that do this for a living,
before I waste any more of mine...
The original cycle, to get a baseline was WAY better than after
they were shorted.. I'm not offering this as an absolute, only as something
for guys to ponder before they solder that wire across.....

Dan, what date code are you running? Traditionally the first date codes had lower ratings then the newest date code. My TQ 3800 packs are quite a bit better then any of my 3300 packs, which were stout in their day. But the other thing to consider is that performance doesn't always directly relate to cycle numbers. I have had packs like cycle lower then the best packs I used to have, and they run better. 3800's are going to be the way to go. With IB releasing the revised 3600 cell, it is entirely possible that 3800 will only be necessary for modified, where the 3600 will be for 19 turn and stock. Just my observations.

Dan, what date code are you running? Traditionally the first date codes had lower ratings then the newest date code. My TQ 3800 packs are quite a bit better then any of my 3300 packs.

Mine 'were' too... before the DS....
How do you read the date codes, I'd be happy to tell you what they are...

Dan,

The date code is right above the Interlec name on the label, it's usually a bunch of letters like, aaacxw. Does anyone know how to brake the code?

Thanks,
Tim

Dave: Just tell everyone you were "testing"...you know, R and D...
The answer for 2000's and 2400's,(Ni-Cads) was to charge them backwards,(reverse polarity) from a totally deadshorted state for about 500 seconds, dump them, then charge them the correct way.
Can you say V-O-L-T-A-G-E...
I used that method to TQ the Snowbirds in 1/12th mod by 2 laps the last year it was at Boylan's track. Broke the 3000 Ni-Mh track record with 2000 Ni-Cads...Worked Killer.
The competition was scratching their heads all week...:devil:

yeah thats it r&d yeeeeeeah