Greetings All,
While searching the web, after the Cat 1 Katrina blew over leaving me without power for three days, I found a most useful document detailing the disassembly, cleaning, and assembly of a Tecumseh carb.
Here's the link:
http://www.bwcornwell.com/automotivation/engines_motors/small_engine_repair_notes.html#lmclctc

This guy describes exactly what to do and when to do it.
It pulled me through a gummed up HM100 on a Generac PP5000T.
As well, a gentleman in this forum led us to a PDF document of Tecumseh's Technician's guide to carb repair... Both excellent resources for getting that hunk of junk going again.
Thanks for being here folks. You saved me from 100+ degree temps and lots of spoiled food...all by reading your threads! Outstanding group!
Good luck,
mike

Unfortunately, this link no longer works!

Unfortunately, this link no longer works!

Good morning.You didn't post what engine or carb you are working on,but,here is a link to carb cleaning and rebuilding.Hope this helps.
http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/

Hi Guys, I have a Craftsman edger with a TECUMSEH CARBURETOR # 632589 that will start but not run. I took the carb off and ordered a carb kit from Sears. After thoroughly cleaning (was not too dirty, all holes I could get to were cleared with carb spray) and installing kit, using fresh gas, it still will not run any longer then 3 - 4 seconds. I saw on a video, removing the venturi tube, it came out so easy for him but when I tried it, it wouldn't budge and I was afraid to force it. Thanks for any sny suggestions?

nozzle on the carburetor part number you listed does not show that it can be removed. Just make sure it's open all the way through and make sure the orifices in the bowl nut are clean and open as well.

The problem is most likely the bowl nut as previously stated, it is usually the tiny hole near the top by the threads, it is almost invisible on some, I use the wire from a twist tie to clean it, refer to the pic below for reference. Have a good one. Geo

http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z120/geogrubb/Tec_Bwl_nut2.jpg

Thanks Geo, that part was new with the kit although it is the type with the screw in needle. I assumed it was clear but I'll check it. Thanks.

Thanks Geo, that part was new with the kit although it is the type with the screw in needle. I assumed it was clear but I'll check it. Thanks.

I saw that it had an adjustable main jet on the parts breakdown, and I did not even think to ask, how many turns from seat did you set the adjustment screw when you reassembled the carburetor?

I left it alone, I figured it was factory set.

I left it alone, I figured it was factory set.
No, it's not. Close it all the way until it stops, just don't force it, back it out 1 1/2 to 2 turns and start up your engine and see how it runs. If it sputters and blows black smoke, turn the screw in a little until it smooths out. If it starts and dies, open it up a little to see if it will continue to run. If it still will not run, then the carburetor needs more TLC...

Best of luck....:thumbsup:

OK, I put enough gas in the fuel line to fill the bowl and adjusted the screw as you said and that did it, it stayed running and I got a nice smooth idle. But when I attached the tank and put gas in it, it ran out of the carb. I did replace the float, needle and seat with the rebuild kit and I did the blow test and there was no air leak but with the fuel running out I guess it is not seating right. I'll take it apart again tomorrow. Thanks again.

Make sure the seat is in correctly, with the ridge facing down into the needle channel.

OK, I got it out, I think it was in upside down. How far do I push it in?

OK, I got it out, I think it was in upside down. How far do I push it in?

Until you can't push it anymore. Use something slightly smaller then the opening to push on the seat, it needs to seal all the way around in the opening and it cannot be at any angle to work properly.

Thanks for the help guys, no more leak. I was able to keep it running for a minute or so but it seemed to be racing so I think it is just a matter of adjustment. I'll play with it some more tomorrow. Thanks again!

May need to make sure the throttle linkages are hooked up correctly, and may need to perform a "static governor adjustment"